| Author |
Message |
    
Gerald_D
Registered
Username: Gerald_d
Post Number: 447
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Monday, November 13, 2006 - 09:43 pm: | 
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Inverted router on table.....drillpress....
Those ideas could link back to a milling machine, but sliding the rails through guides while the table stays static. See again what my guy said in my post of 8.39pm: "...in future he would think of having some loaded rollers (or greased guide plates) so that he could simply push the rail through while the cutter position stayed fixed. The actual cut is very light." 
If anyone does build a handfed device, you must feed against the cutter rotation to prevent the the cutter from grabbing the rail and breaking things. |
John_H
Registered
Username: John_h
Post Number: 24
Registered: 11-2006
| | Posted on Monday, November 13, 2006 - 10:01 pm: |
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Gerald,
"If anyone does build a handfed device, you must feed against the cutter rotation to prevent the the cutter from grabbing the rail and breaking things."
Excellent advice!
John |
Greg Waggy
Registered
Username: Gawnca
Post Number: 36
Registered: 11-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 14, 2006 - 04:44 am: |
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John,
I give it a try. Here's the picture I wanted to include when I got the error message.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=367-7114&PMPXNO=950273&PARTPG=INLMK3
$34.25 Page 80 of their catalog |
John_H
Registered
Username: John_h
Post Number: 26
Registered: 11-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 14, 2006 - 05:14 am: |
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Greg,
I've seen the drill conversion. I think(simply an
opinion) that by the time you rework the head,
because the stock quill isn't going to handle
the lateral forces, you'd have to much $$ tied
up in it.
An idea is to use the head from a standard
mini-mill which one could get wordwide or here
in the U.S. as a repair item from littlemachineshop.com. As a single-purpose
tool/machine it could be bolted to something
extremely ridgid.
John |
John_H
Registered
Username: John_h
Post Number: 28
Registered: 11-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 14, 2006 - 06:17 am: |
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The more I think about...and I do, By weighing
costs, availability of tools, how much of it one
person would actually need, it looks like Gerald's
table saw idea is probably the shortest of shortcuts.
For light production, light $$ has to be spent. I'd look at the grinding rig.
John |
Greg Waggy
Registered
Username: Gawnca
Post Number: 41
Registered: 11-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 14, 2006 - 06:21 am: |
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I wonder how much the blade for the saw will cost? Also, you might be better off to cut/grind on the back side of the saw so that the blade is coming up rather than grinding down. |
John_H
Registered
Username: John_h
Post Number: 29
Registered: 11-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 14, 2006 - 06:27 am: |
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I just bought 2 from Harbor Freight on sale
for $3.99 ea. Mine are 14" "Abrasive Cut-off Wheels",
14" is to big for a table saw, but that tells you
they ain't expensive or hard to come by.
Look at the way Gerald did it. He's "been there-done that"
John |
Gerald_D
Registered
Username: Gerald_d
Post Number: 448
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 14, 2006 - 06:51 am: |
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Good Morning, I see you are still at it! The times on the posts are my local time.
Take a break from the V-cap for a while and think how to remove about 12mm [1/2"] or more of surplus width from that angle iron. (Without distorting it too much - shearing and flame-cutting are out of the question)
By the way, a 110mm [4.5"] diam grind wheel will make a hollow face on a V-cap by only 0.03mm[0.001"] which should be okay for a roller. |
Greg Waggy
Registered
Username: Gawnca
Post Number: 43
Registered: 11-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 14, 2006 - 06:59 am: |
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How about a metal bandsaw with a rip-fence set up? As for the "V" cap, just one more comment and then I'll let it rest. Why couldn't you use a good bench grinder to cut the faces? |
Gerald_D
Registered
Username: Gerald_d
Post Number: 449
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 14, 2006 - 07:02 am: |
|
 |
Gerald_D
Registered
Username: Gerald_d
Post Number: 450
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 14, 2006 - 07:29 am: |
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This is the fit if a 102mm [4"] diam. grindstone is used. The gap (if you can see it on your screen) is only 0.030 mm [0.0012"]
The gap is actually a lot smaller than what I was thinking before. Now that I've drawn it accurately, I reckon this type of rail will be 100% |
Gerald_D
Registered
Username: Gerald_d
Post Number: 601
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 06, 2006 - 09:10 pm: |
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Here is Gert cutting rails on a bandsaw and then on a milling machine:
The sawing is between scribed lines (no fence) down to 26mm.
|
Travish
Registered
Username: Flyin04
Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 06, 2006 - 09:28 pm: |
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Hello Gerald,
I must commend you on all your efforts! Well done Mate. I am new here to your forum, and I am enjoying watching the few that are actually getting down to business. Great job on keeping your forum clean and organized. The site is easy to use and get around. I have been a Machinist for about 15 years now. This is an awesome project that my wife and I are considering building. Ok enough allready...
This guy doing the rails on a milling machine here, I'm curious how he is doing the X axis rails? Since they are so long, he must be unclamping them, then sliding them down, and reclamping, followed by a bit of hand blend work. Interesting to see how people get by with what they have available to them. Looks like he has a good set up there.
Cheers. |
Gerald_D
Registered
Username: Gerald_d
Post Number: 602
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 06, 2006 - 09:39 pm: |
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Welcome Travish! Yes, those rails are unclamped, slid along and re-clamped. Havn't seen signs of hand blend work, but you machinists are good at this, aren't you?  |
Travis H
Registered
Username: Flyin04
Post Number: 2
Registered: 11-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 06, 2006 - 09:52 pm: |
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Yes, your right it is all about technique. There is more than one way to make a cut in this trade. Cool to see the different ways to do the rails. I too am thinking about how I would do the rails. If I decide to build, I'm going to go with a 4x8' machine. I have access to a mill that has 8ft of travel, even at that, I will still have to re-clamp. Shouldn't be a problem though. just would be nice to do it in all in one go. It will be interesting to see what Fabrica comes up with. |
Gerald_D
Registered
Username: Gerald_d
Post Number: 605
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 06, 2006 - 10:00 pm: |
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The beds that the rails screw to are very solid - there is nothing wrong with a carefully aligned joint in the rail. Only one wheel out of 4 need to cross a joint at a time. |
James Webster
Registered
Username: Wti
Post Number: 34
Registered: 02-2007
| | Posted on Saturday, April 07, 2007 - 07:00 am: |
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Gerald,
What HP and overall size is that bandsaw Gert is using to rip those rails?
How long did it take to cut a foot of metal?
I ask because my welder says it would take "forever" to rip 1/4" angle on this bandsaw:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93762 |
Gerald_D
Registered
Username: Gerald_d
Post Number: 1230
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Saturday, April 07, 2007 - 07:41 am: |
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Hi James, the bandsaw you linked to is the baby brother of the one that Gert has. He has this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93507.
I'll ask him how long it took....
I do know the smaller version as well, and I tend to agree with your welder. There is a big difference in performance between these two models of bandsaw. We use the small one for thin-walled tube, under 2mm - still a handy machine though. |
phil bizley
Registered
Username: Dumpty
Post Number: 7
Registered: 01-2007
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2007 - 02:31 pm: |
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Gerald,Would i be able to cut the 6mm rails with the small bandsaw,(can't afford the larger one 700.00 pounds here in the uk) I have tried the evolution saw and made the jig for the angle grinder but the cuts are really wavey.i dont mind how long it takes as long as it will cut the rails down.Phil |
Gerald_D
Registered
Username: Gerald_d
Post Number: 1276
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2007 - 02:47 pm: |
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Phil, the small bandsaw will probably take 50 to 75% of the time some vigorous manual hacksawing would take. Snag is that the small one snaps blades too easily.
The grinder with thin, edge-cutting disk does make a wavey cut, but the straightness comes when the thick, face-cutting disk is used. Well, at least as straight as the angle iron itself - is your iron straight to start with? |
phil bizley
Registered
Username: Dumpty
Post Number: 8
Registered: 01-2007
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2007 - 08:17 pm: |
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yes it's straight enough,i have been trying all day and getting nowhere.i just bought a small bandsaw from my local machine supplier and can see what you mean,very slow.oh well thats another tool to add to my collection.guess i'll go back to the thin disk and thick grinding disk.by the way i could not get the thin pferd disk only the 2.5mm thick ones so i bought some other make thin ones 1mm, |
phil bizley
Registered
Username: Dumpty
Post Number: 9
Registered: 01-2007
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2007 - 08:20 pm: |
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gerald. i ment to tell you that the evolution metal cutting saw cuts it like butter.cant keep it straight though.maybe fixed in a bench with a guid fence might work better, |
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