Trying smaller motors with belt reduction #17 - Sao Caetano do Sul, SP, Brasil

YRD · #1 Thu 04 September 2008, 21:24

Hello,

My name is Yuri and I Sao Paulo - Brazil (with "s" rather than "z")

.

I thank Gerald for creating this wonderful project

.

Forum on CNC in Brazil - CNC Guide - http://www.guiacnc.com.br/forum/inde....html#msg61547

Some pictures:

domino11 · #2 Thu 04 September 2008, 21:30

Welcome Yuri!
Looks like you are on your way. Keep us updated with photos, we like photos.

Gerald D · #3 Thu 04 September 2008, 23:18

Welcome to this forum Yuri!

I see you are going to have quite a big X dimension: 4400mm [14.4 ft]. What is your Y dimension?

Kobus_Joubert · #4 Fri 05 September 2008, 00:22

Good luck with the building of your MM. I like the clean W/Shop and new tools..

YRD · #5 Fri 05 September 2008, 17:17

Thanks Domino, more photos

Gerald,

License to change his project.

Y original 2350

My roller: http://www.yi-tong.com/

Purchased in Brazil for about U.S. $ 35.00

You already knew this manufacturer?

Here are several taxes

. For you to be less

YRD · #6 Fri 05 September 2008, 17:44

My monster

YRD · #7 Sat 27 September 2008, 20:56

Laser cutting and CNC Bending.

I am happy and nothing like a beer to accompany

Gerald D · #8 Sat 27 September 2008, 21:54

Hi Yuri, Looks like you ordered a couple of extra parts?

YRD · #9 Sat 27 September 2008, 22:34

Hi Gerald,
Yes

The company that made the cut has a minimum value for the service. Approximately US$ 270.00

If commit any errors in the solder, can change the play.

What did you think of V-Roller chinese

Gerald D · #10 Sat 27 September 2008, 23:32

V-Roller chinese should be okay.

YRD · #11 Mon 29 September 2008, 06:33

In the post 9 reads "solder" read welding.

Problem of translation.

domino11 · #12 Mon 29 September 2008, 09:23

Yuri,
No problem, I knew what you meant, even up here in Canada!

YRD · #13 Mon 29 September 2008, 12:43

Hi Heath,

Excuse my poor English

AND YOUR photos? I think it's legend

YRD · #14 Mon 06 October 2008, 19:02

More pics

Now we are going to paint

YRD · #15 Mon 06 October 2008, 19:06

Pics

Robert M · #16 Tue 07 October 2008, 04:53

Yuri, I love your new …. Kitchen table

Robert

Gerald D · #17 Tue 07 October 2008, 05:34

That artwork in the corner is especially interesting!

YRD · #18 Tue 07 October 2008, 10:24

Modern Art

YRD · #19 Tue 07 October 2008, 10:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robert M

Yuri, I love your new …. Kitchen table

Robert

Is where my wife tells me to sleep

Yuri

YRD · #20 Wed 08 October 2008, 20:06

Start

Gerald D · #21 Wed 08 October 2008, 23:38

Ah, those tubes are at least 3mm thick, but still not thick enough to tighten the M8 screws really tight in a tapped hole. Are you adding something inside? Or, are you going to be careful with the tightening? I think it is okay for strength of the rail joint if the tightening of the screw is at half-tightened . . . . .

YRD · #22 Thu 09 October 2008, 07:44

Yes the bar of steel inside the tube, as project.

YRD · #23 Thu 09 October 2008, 16:54

How should I use for 28mm?
Use the blade as in the 1st or 2nd picture?

Thanks,
Yuri

Kobus_Joubert · #24 Thu 09 October 2008, 22:19

Hi Yuri, I think you have the wrong disk for cutting the rail down to 28mm. Your picture looks like a GRINDING DISK. You need a CUTTING DISK. I used a very thin one to cut done my rails. When you grind something, the setup in photo 2 is correct according to me....Correct for grinding the 45 degree bevels on top of the rail.

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showt...8&postcount=27

Pferd SG-Elastic INOX-Stainless 1mm disks.

YRD · #25 Thu 09 October 2008, 22:36

Thanks Kobus for post,

But,
Specification of Norton Brazil - BDA 08:
http://www.norton-abrasivos.com.br/D...00000000005035

Disc Cutting 0,8mm Carbide Silicium

Gerald D · #26 Fri 10 October 2008, 03:29

Hi Yuri, the disk looks okay. (use as per second pic). Interesting that you find such a thin disk with a "cup" (hollow) in the center. I only know thin disks that are completely flat.

YRD · #27 Fri 10 October 2008, 06:18

Hi Gerald,

I have the option completely smooth and 0.8 / 1.0 or 1.6 mm (thickness). Which to choose?

Kobus you cut the 28 mm with "skate" supported by only 4 screws? Nothing else? He ran the skate supported only by hands?

What is the best option for a man cut the 28mm?
1 - Cut as Kobus (sliding skate cut)
2 - Cut Fixed (skate fixed on the table)

Kobus_Joubert · #28 Fri 10 October 2008, 06:55

Yuri, I clamped the rail on my table saw top. Then only supported by hands cut a short piece. Then move rail and cut the next piece until finished.

I must say I have never seen thin cutting disks with a CUP in the middle, that is why I thought they were grinding disks.

Gerald D · #29 Fri 10 October 2008, 08:11

Yuri, I like the method of Kobus (and Hennie) . . . . Fix the rail down to a horizontal table, and then use sliding skate. First take light cuts to make a shallow groove and then use more force to go deeper. Move the skate forwards and backwards a lot, so that you never cut hot steel - always cut cold steel.

"I have the option completely smooth and 0.8 / 1.0 or 1.6 mm (thickness). Which to choose?"

I do not understand the "completely smooth" part? In general, the thinner 0.8 should be the best, but start with very light cuts to make the first groove.

YRD · #30 Fri 10 October 2008, 09:21

I have flat disc or CUP at 0,8 or 1,0 or 1,6mm.

Better flat disk or CUP disk ?