DIY drives from pminmo, Cutting Video, #59 - Bitola, Macedonia
 

Hi

finaly i have all parts :D and today starting to build soon i will post pictures and if need help i i dont think theat i will not get mechmate is excellent community :cool:

Good luck to you Gorantec! :)

build started finaly
 

i have start yesterday finaly and here is some pictures :)

Hi Gorantec - thats nice progress!

Hi Gorantec

Watch out for the positions of the cross-supports relative to the long beams. They should not be symmetrical like in your pictures. Have a careful look at drawing 1010300W:

Gerald ,

what problem can i get if i go like is now in the pictures ?

Thanks
Goran

Your router will not cover the full distance as shown below:

the "X" rail in the picture is 2700 mm but my cutting area i like to be 2100 mm i think theat this calculation is correct ?

If you are only planning to cut 2100, then your table is okay. In fact, it looks nice and strong. Sorry that I made you a bit nervous about the length.

Ok thanks Gerald ;)

i have stuck with driver from Deitech motors get enable but i can not move ? Whant can be problem ? Also since my power suply is not here yet im using power suply for test 32V and have around 9-10A can be theat problem which motors get enable but dont move ?

Can you give us lots of photos of your test setup/wiring for the motors?

Are you using Mach3 and PMDX-122? Something else?

have you drawn out a circuit which you an share with us? I really interested in this drivers.

RGDS
IRfan

i was using brekaout board this http://pminmo.com/4axisopto/4axisDIYopto.htm but i also try today with this board http://pminmo.com/PMinMOwiki/index.p...4axisinterface and with this board i can enable/disable motor with Mach3 but still i can not move motor ?

with the second interface i have success but this test was on table will see when i finish construction and then i will post resaults from drivers .

Gorantec,
Is this a board that you built yourself, or was it premade and tested?

yes i made my self from here http://pminmo.com/PMinMOwiki/index.p...4axisinterface but now everything is ok will see when i finsih all ;)

Yeah,
Phils site is very good for the DIY stuff. :) Good luck with it.

just to let you know my project is not dead since i dont post anything :) my machine is finished painted and this will make first test and psot some pictures

Gorantec,
Good luck, I take it your diy board is working fine now. :)

I look forward to lots of pictures! :)

We going to Croatia on holiday next year, but I am starting to think that Macedonia will be better!

I will suggest following links for you:
http://www.exploringmacedonia.com/ ; http://www.visitmacedonia.com.mk/

Gerald you will not make mistake if you come to Macedonia :cool:

ok now i like some help my motors need power suply of min 32 Amps but i found power suply with more then 50 Amps and 58 V but i can not find some capacitors for theat suply what will happen if i put without capacitors ?

And also please let me know since my drivers are go to 256 micro steps what will be the best micro step ?

I think you make some typing mistakes 32 Amps? 50 Amps? That is far too much!

You must have the capacitors. If you cannot find new ones, then you will have to find old ones from scrapped electronics somewhere.

256 microsteps means that your computer must give very high frequency signals. A normal computer cannot go that fast. We mostly work with 10 microsteps.

well the my motors are all rated 8Amps in bipolar parallel conection but i have put some power suply witch give 32V and 10A total with 30000 mF capacitors and the machine work perfect :D

My machine make first cut and was perfect at first time :D i will post pictures and video in couple hours

Ok here is picture of first cut and also videos :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Szm2XpYS_w0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jEUymYd-Prs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d1T4VkUOKFQ

Gorantec,

Congratulations. Great work.:)

Okay now, just some logo's and you are ready for a Serial Number.:D

Very well done Gorantec!

How many other CNC routers are in Bitola? I am sure that you will get nice work for your new machine.

Well done . Let the real fun begin...enjoy

great sir, how are the drives performing???

Great Results. You must be proud. :)

I hope theat i will have work i dont know how much have cnc router but have

Drivers for now working perfect ?

yes this days i will put logo :D

Wellllllll i have problem with my MechMate :o

i have notice today i was like to making some mdf door but on the long distance i have see theat my mechamate dont work like need to work i dont have correct square on Y - axis on the X axis is everything ok but on Y :o please check the pic and some advice how to fix .

My thinking is to correect with Y rails to unweld and make to 90 degree angle .

Well, off-hand, it appears that your table in not square.

You show that the "y" out of square travel is 10 mm. How far does the bit have to travel in the "y" direction to get to be 10 mm out of square?

Are your X cross bearers welded or bolted? If bolted you can loosen the bolts of the cross bearers, loosen the bolts in the MDF and use a "come-along" diagonally across the table to square up the table.

I don't have experience with welded cross bearers, but I believe you can do the same thing on a welded table.

Y travel 1100 mm to go -10mm my x rail is bolted so you think to make work totry with x rail ?

Gorantec, relax, no need to cut the gantry and weld again!

Read this thread: Setting the Y-axis square to the X-axis

Okay, that thread is not so easy to read....sorry. But, also look at drawing M1 20 100 A, where it says: "THIS DIMENSION IS ADJUSTED TO MAKE THE CARS RUN SQUARE AND TRUE". You need to adjust the washers between the V-rollers and the frame so that the y-gantry is square to the table when the motors are dropped down and the gantry is completely free.

John, the square of the table makes no difference. The cutting squareness is all decided by the gantry being square to one x-rail.

Looking back at your posts, those cross bearers definitely look like they are welded. If you are out-of-square and you can't change the table, you may have to adjust the X-rails...or at least your stops. The most important measurement for the X-rails is that they are parallel. I used a tape measure to check them after having used a measured rod to set them initially.

Or your Y Gantry may be out-of-square. You can check this by making sure that your X-stops are square and rolling the Y Gantry against the X-stops. I used the method of measuring from corner to corner diagonally across the table...both diagonals. I made sure theses measurements were within 1 mm. Once you've done this, the Gantry should hit the X-stops at the same time. If not, your Y Gantry is out-of-square.