You certainly may have the name of the VFD.
It is a Huanyang HY02D223B.
Purchased from ebay and shipped from China.

Only time will tell if it was a worthwhile purchase.

Got some more done today. Got the spindle mounted, the water lines ran and the pumps sorted out. Yes pumps (more than one)

I forgot to take photos of the mount while I was making it. :(
I will have to apply some paint to it in the near future so I will take the photos then.

My initial tests showed that my pump was going to be ok but this did not take into account the 10 odd meters of 12mm pipe that it had to pump through. The pump was not capable of doing the job. I ended up with about 100 ml/min. Just not good enough. I did a little reading and discovered that the centrifugal pumps that I have can be connected in parallel to increase flow rate or series to increase head pressure. The pumps specs stated that it would pump about 10 liters a minute so I did not need to increase flow rate. I opted to connect them in series to increase head pressure.

http://www.tpub.com/content/doe/h101...h1012v3_76.htm

Attachment 4410 Attachment 4411

Initially the series connection made a small difference but it was still only around 300 ml/min. I left the pumps to run for a while as I noted there was a lot of bubbles in the lines and I knew this would affect the flow rates. After about half an hour most of the bubbles were out of the system. This increased the flow rate to 800 ml/min which I am a lot happier with and I was supprised at how restrictive the bubbles were. The system contains about 15 ish liters of coolant and some anti corrosive agent. I am unsure of the construction of the inside of the spindle so I put in the additive just to be safe.

Attachment 4412 Attachment 4413

I cobbled together a flow switch from some rescued parts I had laying around. It’s not the best looking thing in the world but I think it will do the job until I find a reasonable priced flow sensor. The water enters in the top and fills the U section of pipe causing the float switch to activate. When the pump is turned off or stops, the water drains out the small hole in the bottom of the U and the switch deactivates. It takes about 10 seconds to change states which should be OK I think. I am happy so far with the way this is all working. I just need to make a new dust foot and I'm back in action.

Jayson.

Hi Jayson - jsut about the right time - My submersible pump (single ) facing similar problem -

tell me one thing what happenns when you stop them for a while and then restart them - the same story of slow start till the bubbles are out continues ?

ok also where are you planning to connect the flow switch - to the e-stop or just to a high pitched buzzer?

were the pumps supplied to you by the spindle supplier? how much did it cost u

RGDS
Irfan

Hi Irfan,

when I leave the pumps off for an extended preiod the fluid runs back down the return line until it is below the level of the coolant in the reservoir which is only about 12 inchs. There is no way for any other bubbles to get into the system unless I have an leak in the system. When the pumps are turned back on this small amount of air is pushed out within seconds.
I plan on connecting the flow switch to an input in EMC2 so that it shuts down the spindle, stops motion and also trips the E stop of both the VFD and the machine. Hopefully this will be enough.
The pumps I am using are Iwaki MD10's that I removed from some used equipment at work. From what I have heard they cost a fair amount so I am glad I had them on hand already.

Regards,

Jayson.

Thanks Jayson - I am planning similar connections for the float switch -

think I will just get a better pump.

RGDS
IRfan

Hey Jayson, I've just bought a very similar spindle to yours off ebay (may be the same infact) I notice its advertised as a 2.2kW spindle and the markings on yours says 2200W, all good. But then it says 220V 7.5A. Which by my calcs only works out at 1.6kW? whats going on there?

Hi Matt, it is a 3-phase motor and it is using 7.5 Amps on each of the 3 phases. Not all at the same time though. See top calculator on http://www.nepsi.com/total_power_calculation.htm

Hi everyone,

I have been absent from here for a while due to intesive work on the mechmate. To be specific, I have been trying to get the VFD and EMC2 to talk to each other. At first I thought that this would be relatively easy as EMC2 supports the modbus protocol and the VFD supports it as well (according the the VFD specs).

It turns out that the VFD has a communications protocol that is very similar to modbus but not the same as most other units out there. This meant that to make it work I would need to modify the software. This would have been easy if I knew what I was doing but I am not a programmer so it wasn't so easy. Like all things I don't understand, I stuffed around with it :)

After 3 weeks of intensive changing and compiling, testing, reinstalling, etc, etc, the two now communicate. To be accurate, due to the way I have "fixed" the software there is occasionally a misunderstanding between the two and a communications error is created. This does not have any adverse effects on the system and I just ignore the error. I might have to learn how to program so I can make this work correctly, one day.

Here is a screenshot of what I now have:-


Time for some more testing. I will report back soon.

Jayson.

Very interesting! Especially the fact that you have the feedback of things like the Amps displayed on your screen.

Hi Jayson,

Nice work, did you keep a track of the costs involved in the project?
I am also contemplating a similar size to yours and as a fellow aussie i am keen to know the local prices.

Cheers,
Basil

Hi Basil,

Roughly AU$4700 to date. Cheap at half the price :)

Jayson.

Thanks for that Jayson,

Concerning getting your VFD and EMC2 to talk to each other.
I can program software and have experience with EMC.
Can i assist you?

Cheers
Basil

Thanks for the offer Basil. A week ago I would have given you the job, but I think I have it sorted out. I would not want anyone that knows how to program to see what a mess I made of things to get the results I wanted though... ;)

Jayson.

Glad you got it sorted.
Most clients of programmers never see the source code either.
So they don't see what a mess we made of things to get the results they wanted. :)
But do not tell anyone.

Hi All,

Time to drop in again with some more pics.

My Grandma asked if I could cut out a few tree shapes for her so she can paint them and turn them into fridge magnets. I told her that I would see what I could do.

Attachment 4810

It took just under a minute to do each one. She only wanted four or five but since they were so quick and easy to make, I made a few extras. It is 3mm MDF and was cut with a 3mm router bit.

Today I cut some signs from treated pine. An acquaintance has a commercial machine but was unable to do these due to time restrictions and also due to the size of one of them. The longest sign is 3 meters long and his machine only has an 8 foot bed (2.4 meters) so it was going to be difficult for him to cut anyway. I'm fairly certain that I didn't mention that my machine is home made, cost heaps less than his, but can do more... Well maybe once I did :)

Attachment 4811

I think I'm getting the hang of all of this.

Regards,

Jayson.

Hi Jayson,

Could u pls tell what software you r using (the screen shot)?

Regards

John

John,

Look back over the thread. He is using EMC2.

Jayson, those signs look great.

So how is the spindle working out? Have you got a reactor installed? Any intereference issues?

Also, what is the rating of the outlet you use to power the spindle? I'm thinking I need to get a 20A outlet installed?

Do you have the spindle power going through the same contactor as your stepper motor power supply?

Hi Matt,

the spindle is working out great. I'm very glad I got it.
I do not have any reactors installed. There is a little interference coming from the installation but this has not affected the machine only my shed radio.
I am using a standard 240volt 10 amp outlet and not having any problems. The VFD does not get powered off when the Estop is pressed. Instead there is a signal which goes into the external e stop terminal of the VFD which makes the spindle stop very quickly. If you just cut power the spindle has to coast to a stop. If I have an emergency then I need the spindle to stop right away, otherwise it would not be an emergency ;)

Hope this helps,

Jayson.

Jayson/Matt

If you went for a contactor with 1N/O and 1 N/C auxillary contact the same thing could be achieved by running the e stop signal through the normally closed auxillary when you hit the e-stop on the steppers the contactor drops out and the signal line to the VFD closes, would this work:confused:

Jayson - if you are stopping the spindle right away then you may want to put on the braking resistor on the VFD.

spindle mount?
 

Did you ever get around to painting your Spindle mount? you promised more pics of it ;)

mmm shamed into work again :rolleyes:

Here are the pictures you requested... (hot of the camera as I've only just finished them)

Attachment 5066 Attachment 5067 Attachment 5068 Attachment 5069

Attachment 5070

I countersunk the attachment screws and also cut a groove into the front side of the mount so that everything alligned correctly.

I also made another small sign for my sister.

Attachment 5071

I hope the original designer doesn't see this and get upset about it.

This one is 220 x 300mm V cut into the back of 3mm acrylic 1.5mm deep.

I still have trouble setting the machine going and leaving it to do its thing. When watching it I go into a trance and stand there for the whole job.

Jayson

"I still have trouble setting the machine going and leaving it to do its thing. When watching it I go into a trance and stand there for the whole job".

Jason have you spoken to a doctor about this, it doesn't sound toooo serious in fact it sounds very familiar. If he is able to prescribe a pill why don't you get several extra bags to distribute here on the forum. I know I will take a bag.

That some good looking work!

Thanks JR,

I am booked in to see the doctor on Monday, I hope he can help as I seem to loose many hours over the weekend as well. Hopefully he can help me find these also. I will start sending out the pills as soon as I get them ;)

I sure am enjoying this machine...

Jayson.

Jayson,
Even in a trance, you sound happier than a bird with a french fry! :)

Sign Painting
 

Hey Jayson and MechMaties,

To get a nice finish on outdoor signs, try painting the board before machining. Once painted cover with lowtack film (sometimes called frisk, like the stuff you cover books with) then machine, then paint the recess with paint and peel off the film. Easy eye popping finish!

Have fun...

hey Jayson, I just went back to look at your belt reduction drive and i think my pulleys are the same size as yours, and you also have 14mm dia motor shafts. You have a 15T small pulley right? did you have enough wall left on them after you bored them out to 14mm? My pulleys only have 16mm dia hub. I think i have the to scrap my 15T and go up a few sizes. but then i'll have an odd ratio :(

Can you press a steel ring over to improve the collar strength?

Hi Besser,

thanks for the advice on painting the signs. I will keep this in mind for future referance.

Hi MattyZee,

Yep, my small pulleys are 15 tooth. As Gerald suggested you can put a ring on the outside of the pulley if there is room. Look at post #60 in my thread and you will see this is exactly what I did. I used aluminium instead of steel, so far this has not proven to be an issue. Aside from giving more room for the grubscrew, it also allowed me to get the pulley centered in the lathe more easily.

Regards,

Jayson.

Jayson,

What is the depth of Cut (also bit diameter) you get on aluminum? I have been wondering what is possible with a T6 or T7 grade? Do you run Air cooling on the bits?

G'Day Jayson,
My name is Dale Murray. I'm an Aussie working in Afghanistan at the moment. I will be back in the USA at the end of the year and plan to start buying the parts I need to build a Mechmate. But for now I will be buying all the parts that I can from the USA (hopefully cheaply) before I come home in 2011.
As you have the first operational MechMate in Oz I thought I would ask your advice about what you parts you could buy in Australia and what you had to buy from the USA or overseas. I realise that you already had the Steppers and drivers from your "Photographic equipment" spares.
I was also considering asking Gerald if we could start a Australian thread where we could get together and pool our information about the best place to get the hard to find parts (without giving Quoted prices of course). I have noted that there is about 20 Australians that actively contribute to the Mechmate forum.
The main reason that I would like to set up an Australian thread is that I have already spent many hours trying to find certain parts on the internet both in Australia and the USA to compare prices and figure out what you can buy in Australia and what I can’t. Besides I like to buy the very best that I can afford but hate finding it cheaper a week later at another site.
Oh and very well done on the first Mechmate in Oz. You have inspired me to get a Mechmate number of my own.

Cheers Dale

Hello, Jayson.
What the assessment which you have about VDF and water colled spindle, works fine?
hugs

Hi Jayson,

Great build, very interesting reading your whole thread. Looking to venture into a build myself at some stage, just starting to do all my homework, so we shall see how we go.

Cheers
Tony.

Hi All,

I have been absent for a while due to lack of internet. Sorry to anyone waiting for answers...

Besser, the aluminium pieces that I have posted pictures of previously were cut on my CNC milling machine. For the mill I use cutting fluid and I think the bit was 6mm diameter. More on cutting aluminium on the Mechmate soon...

Dale, I am glad that I have inspired you to take the plunge. Most of my parts were sourced locally, the only imported components were the spindle and VFD. Having said that, the price of the rack in Australia was by far the most surprising part of the whole exercise. If you can get the rack shipped to Australia economically I would suggest you do, unless things have changed a lot since I purchased mine. Other Australians currently building will be able to guide you on the current rack pricing here. If you don't want to make the V rollers yourself then I suggest you get these as well. I found the rollers to be around AU$75 each, a little too steep for me so I made mine.

Vladimir, I am very pleased with the spindle and the VFD. I do not have any complaints at all about them.

Tony, glad to see another Aussie. If you look carefully at some of the pictures on my thread as well as those of others it should help prevent making some of the mistakes that I and others have already. I look forward to reading your thread.

OK, housework out of the way here are a few more pics..

I was asked by a friend to see if I could cut some 0.063 inch T2024-T3 aluminium on the Mechmate. Always up for a challenge I gave it a try. I can not pertain to being an expert on cutting aluminium but so far my settings have worked. I used a feedrate of 1000mm/min spindle speed of 20,000rpm and a cut depth of 0.5mm per pass. These figures were/are very conservative but until I learn how hard I can push things they will do.

Attachment 5259 Attachment 5260 Attachment 5261

I was pleasantly surprised at the finished quality of the first panel. So were some other that saw it and within 2 days I was asked to make the other 2 panels. The pictures do not do them justice but the finish is very good. The aluminium has a protective plastic coating on it which tears a little when machining, giving the rough looking appearance. This is just the plastic not the aluminium. It looks like my machine is capable of cutting aluminium, that’s lucky since that’s what I wanted it to do.

Attachment 5262

I also tried see if I could do some small text on the Mechmate. It worked out fairly well. Next time I will try to go a little smaller.

Till next time,

Jayson.

Nice to see Jayson posting again - always some surprises :)

Cool. Your friend must be constructing an airplane. I'm interested in doing that someday so this info is fascinating. Thanks for posting.

Been doing some more signs. this time a little of redgum routing.

The first was the Pups bar sign, the letters are 120 mm high complete sign is 1200mm x 190mm.

Attachment 5647

The disabled toilets sign was a few days later. The letters are 40mm high and complete sign is 330mm x 82mm.

Attachment 5646

I was impressed by the overall results. Will do more red gum in the future.

Attachment 5648

Gerald once a build is complete would you rather these type of posts be placed directly into the Showroom thread to save you having to copy them there and also save a little room?

Thanks,

Jayson

Jayson, the choice is yours on where to place the posts. It is a bit less work if you place them direct to the Showroom, but if you want to have a collection of work in your own thread then you need to place them here.

You seem to have a couple of friends with bars, i hope they shout you a few drinks after you make them signs like that. they look great.
Iit might be nice if you could give a brief description of cutter type(s), feedrate, depth per pass, total time cutting etc. (if you don't mind sharing those details)