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  #1  
Old Thu 21 April 2011, 10:14
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
MetalHead Metal Motor Plate Setup

I am going to go through the build out of my motor plates. I want to have it detailed in the forum. I will show how to get the alignment setup for the axle using a very easy process.
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  #2  
Old Thu 21 April 2011, 10:23
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Here are the tools you will need along with your welder and our trusty 4 inch grinder with a cut off wheel (MechMater's tool of choice !!!). The scribe is part of a pack that came from Harbor Freight. A metal slide square and a permenent marker.
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File Type: jpg DSC04949.JPG (33.2 KB, 2085 views)
File Type: jpg DSC04950.JPG (16.8 KB, 2085 views)
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  #3  
Old Thu 21 April 2011, 10:34
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Here are the plates and other items you should have. You will need 2 of the FR8 Bearings and if you have the Belt Drive Plate Kit that has the whole the same side as the geared motor plate you will need 2 of the FR8 adapter rings per drive assembly. I also used one of the bolts that goes with the feet for this setup that will come off once I get ready to install the axle. I use the bolt to set the gap for the plates (Detailed Later).

Note - I used FR8 bearings in this setup and for those of you that have my drive plates I will send you a set of the FR8 adapter rings if you PM me.

The pulley ratio is 3.3:1. This should give good resolution and also give better clearance for the pulleys.

I am in the process of pulling a list of items for a kit that will be BPA01 and will include (Updated 5/6/2011)

BPA01 Kit

1 Belt $8.00
1 Large Pulley $30.66
1 Small Pulley $14.92
2 Flanged Bearing FR8 Shielded $19.88
3 Flat Washer $0.79
2 1/4 20 x 1/2 bolts $0.25
2 1/4 Flat washers $0.25
2 1/4 Lock washer $0.25
1 3 Inch Drilled, Threaded and Milled Axle $25.00


Total $100.00
Shipping $12.00


I updated this post 05/06/2011 with updated kit parts
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC04920.JPG (43.8 KB, 2090 views)
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  #4  
Old Thu 21 April 2011, 10:49
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
This series of pics shows how to setup the plates for the adapter. Note that I had a splater issue. I did not use sheilding gas. Another tip to make cleanup easy and prevent this is to use Welding Splatter Spray. Another option is PAM non stick spray ... but don't tell everyone that secret . Had I done spray coating I would have saved at least 30 minutes of work on the whole assembly.


I welded both sides using an oposite pattern "spot" welding style that keeps the heat build up down. Remember this is to hold a bearing not the Bering Sea.
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File Type: jpg DSC04921.JPG (42.2 KB, 2087 views)
File Type: jpg DSC04922.JPG (129.4 KB, 2080 views)
File Type: jpg Spacer Weld 1.jpg (57.7 KB, 2082 views)
File Type: jpg Spacer Weld 2.jpg (65.8 KB, 2091 views)
File Type: jpg DSC04960.JPG (63.7 KB, 2085 views)
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  #5  
Old Thu 21 April 2011, 11:55
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
This series shows how I start using the 1/2 - 13 bolt that is used for the feet to start the alignement of the two pieces.
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File Type: jpg DSC04926.JPG (37.9 KB, 2077 views)
File Type: jpg DSC04927.JPG (37.0 KB, 2073 views)
File Type: jpg DSC04928.JPG (39.8 KB, 2069 views)
File Type: jpg DSC04930.JPG (67.9 KB, 2072 views)
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  #6  
Old Thu 21 April 2011, 11:59
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Here I have placed both washers on the same side. This allows the pulley to sit flush on the plate. I am using this to measure the height inside between the plates. Once finished the washers will be on each side of the pulley. These washers are smaller that the bearing face so they will rotate with the bearing. The nut is there to pull things tight so I get a true measurement.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC04932.JPG (52.0 KB, 2072 views)
File Type: jpg DSC04934.JPG (51.7 KB, 2081 views)
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  #7  
Old Thu 21 April 2011, 12:09
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
This section takes the Marker and "Blues" the legs for scribing. The lets us blind people see the scribe mark and makes cutting easy. You take the slide rule as shown and make sure it is flush on the bottom and flush against the gear. Then ease the slide down until it touches the top of the washer. Check this a few time in different angle just to make sure your good with the height. Then lightly lock the wheel so it does not slip.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC04941.JPG (39.6 KB, 2074 views)
File Type: jpg DSC04943.JPG (61.4 KB, 2077 views)
File Type: jpg DSC04946.JPG (57.2 KB, 2079 views)
File Type: jpg DSC04947.JPG (51.0 KB, 2074 views)
File Type: jpg DSC04948.JPG (74.1 KB, 2073 views)
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  #8  
Old Thu 21 April 2011, 15:36
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Now I take the height that I got from the pulley and washers and move over to the leg that will sit on top of the plate. One leg hangs off and I will talk about that one shortly. It is best to take the pulley off at this point to get it out of the way and to protect it from getting gouged. Cut on top of the line making sure to pay attention to the cut. You want to just touch the scribe line to get your height. You will see soon that close is good enough. We will use the 1/2-13 bolt to get the height right for the welding of the leg to the motor plate.
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File Type: jpg DSC04951.JPG (60.7 KB, 2060 views)
File Type: jpg DSC04953.JPG (76.7 KB, 2054 views)
File Type: jpg DSC04954.JPG (45.5 KB, 2049 views)
File Type: jpg DSC04955.JPG (53.0 KB, 2050 views)
File Type: jpg DSC04956.JPG (60.7 KB, 2044 views)
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  #9  
Old Thu 21 April 2011, 15:46
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Here I take the large washers and use them to help hold things in place. This part does take a little fidgeting to get used to, but make sure all the washer and nuts are like the photo. You also use the FR8 bearings to keep the whole centered. You will need two 3/4 wrenches for the adjust ment. I guess that would be a tool I should have listed. You will also need a hammer in a later step to make and adjustment on the leg that hangs off. You will see that I used the hub and washer to check this fit. You loosen and tighten the top two nuts to set the height. Check this a lot before you weld to make sure it is correct. You will have a little room for adjustment before you weld the other leg into place.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC04961.JPG (39.6 KB, 2053 views)
File Type: jpg DSC04962.JPG (47.8 KB, 2047 views)
File Type: jpg DSC04963.JPG (33.0 KB, 2042 views)
File Type: jpg DSC04964.JPG (46.6 KB, 2040 views)
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  #10  
Old Thu 21 April 2011, 15:58
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Now you can take the time to weld that leg in place. Take your time and do not move or bump things around until you get it welded. You will see the other leg is bent in the first picture. Also note it is not yet cut off. When you build yours you will see that leg is well over the side of the motor plate and needs to be hammerd over close to the motor plate. Place a block of wood on a hard surface like a concrete floor and place the plate on edge on the block. Then give it a few wacks with the hammer. You can bend this early on if you like, but I did not. Once you get it bent in place you are ready to again check your height several time to make sure the bolt is still in place currectly. Once this is completed I actually placed the pulley back into the setup before I cut off the piece of the leg. Cut the leg a little short of the edge of the motor plate so you have room for a weld bead that does not over hang the top of the plate.
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File Type: jpg DSC04965.JPG (51.1 KB, 2043 views)
File Type: jpg DSC04966.JPG (45.0 KB, 2044 views)
File Type: jpg DSC04967.JPG (41.1 KB, 2043 views)
File Type: jpg DSC04968.JPG (31.0 KB, 2038 views)
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  #11  
Old Thu 21 April 2011, 19:14
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Here is the welded up piece. I did actually tack weld the other side with the pulley mounted. This is risky as slag and aluminuim do no mix well. I did stick a leather glove in to cover the pulley long enough to get a tack. Then I pulled all of that out and welded up the piece. I will post a close up view to see the fit in the next post. I will now work on the shaft for the pulley that goes where the 1/2-13 Carriage bolt is now.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC04983.JPG (38.7 KB, 2033 views)
File Type: jpg DSC04978.JPG (64.0 KB, 2032 views)
File Type: jpg DSC04976.JPG (63.2 KB, 2037 views)
File Type: jpg DSC04977.JPG (51.2 KB, 2038 views)
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  #12  
Old Thu 21 April 2011, 19:20
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Here are a few close ups of the fit. The washers set off the pulley great and give enough space to rotate. Again the washers are smaller than the outside diameter of the FR8 Bearing so they spin with the shaft and the bearing and keep the pulley off the motor plate. I also have some room if needed to move the pulley on the motor up which will cause it to ride up on the larger pulley.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC04980.JPG (47.1 KB, 2035 views)
File Type: jpg DSC04981.JPG (33.8 KB, 2038 views)
File Type: jpg DSC04982.JPG (46.3 KB, 2032 views)
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  #13  
Old Fri 06 May 2011, 05:32
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Man the last two weeks have sucked at work. They think they pay us to actually do stuff !!! Just kidding - sometimes we must pay the piper extra I guess.

Anyway I have the next series of pictures for the build. I finally had the time to get the axles made and assembled.

I decided to make them with the ends threaded to add 1/4-20 bolts to help keep the assembly lined up. This may be a little over engineered, but I thought it was worth the step. I also threaded the holes deep enough on each end to allow for folks to cut the ends shorter to adjust the final length of the axle depending on what the exact finished thickness of the Motor plates ending up being. I am sure we all will have a variance in thickness even if it is only a mm or so.

This series shows the steps I used to make the axle. I did not photo milling the edge of the shaft for some reason ....

I used the lathe to true the ends of the axles. Then I placed them in the mill to get the finished length. I could have measures and cut with my band saw, but the mill is there an it has a DRO on it. Then I drilled and tapped each end. The last step was back at the mill to take a slice off the side for the grub screws to hold better.
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File Type: jpg DSC05041.JPG (51.3 KB, 1898 views)
File Type: jpg DSC05044.JPG (57.7 KB, 1890 views)
File Type: jpg DSC05046.JPG (58.7 KB, 1893 views)
File Type: jpg DSC05048.JPG (50.9 KB, 1891 views)
File Type: jpg DSC05051.JPG (25.0 KB, 1891 views)
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  #14  
Old Fri 06 May 2011, 05:47
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
These two shots show the assembly put together. This is a kit that I will sell BPA01 and it will be $100.00 per motor plus $12.00 shipping.

This setup makes 3:3 to 1 belt drive.

BPA01 Kit

1 Belt $8.00
1 Large Pulley $30.66
1 Small Pulley $14.92
2 Flanged Bearing FR8 Shielded $19.88
3 Flat Washer $0.79
2 1/4 20 x 1/2 bolts $0.25
2 1/4 Flat washers $0.25
2 1/4 Lock washer $0.25
1 3 Inch Drilled, Threaded and Milled Axle $25.00


Total $100.00
Shipping $12.00

Next I will get the assembly finished (Minus Pinion Gear) and get a few shots of that to post.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC05057.JPG (74.0 KB, 1893 views)
File Type: jpg DSC05059.JPG (54.1 KB, 1889 views)
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  #15  
Old Fri 06 May 2011, 18:47
SEMPERFIDELIS61
Just call me: SCOTT
 
ROCKLIN
United States of America
Good Photos & Details

Thanks for walking us through your assembly. I appreciate learning by looking over your shoulder. I sent you a private message concerning ordering up the components you've assembled for each of my 4 mounts.
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  #16  
Old Mon 09 May 2011, 20:23
MAC2009
Just call me: MAC
 
West ST Paul, MN
United States of America
Bolts I shaft

Is there enough clearance between 10 10 322 and the rack for a bolt head an the pinon end of the shaft?

MAC
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  #17  
Old Tue 10 May 2011, 01:46
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
No, there isn't. I suspect that Mike uses those screw holes for assembly/disassembly of the bearings.
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  #18  
Old Tue 10 May 2011, 10:35
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
The 1/2 - 13 bolt is to just line up the assembly for welding. The other small bolts on the ends of the shafts are only 1/4-20 bolt that do not stick out very far. The intent is for the axles to have ends to hold the assembly tight. If clearance is to tight against the rail the inside bolt can be removed and a flat washer plug welded on the shaft once the length of the axle is set.

Or a screw like this may also work.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc..._20_Screw.html.

Thoughts?
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  #19  
Old Tue 10 May 2011, 12:35
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Camera screws are strong enough to be tightened by a coin - a decent screwdriver will shear off the head. The pinion's set screws have a much better fixing effect.
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  #20  
Old Tue 10 May 2011, 16:28
MAC2009
Just call me: MAC
 
West ST Paul, MN
United States of America
OK I was thinking the drilled hole on the pinion end would weaken the shaft. Removing 1/2 the dia. possibly right at the hub end of the pinion. Just a fleeting thought.

MAC
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  #21  
Old Wed 09 November 2011, 06:23
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
I wanted to post an update on this thread. I have added this exploded view and a few pictures to show how the assembly needs to be assembled. The previous posts in the thread had the FR8 bearing coming in from the outside of the assembly which needed to have bolts in the ends of the axle to make sure they stayed in place. But after review and comment it is clear the FR8 bearings need to fit from the inside and the axle and whole assembly held in place by the set screws on the pulley and pinion. I have attached a few pictures of a finished assembly from one of the other members and an exploded view of the parts so everone can see how the plates should be assembled. The instructions above can still be used to setup your plates for welding, you just need to make sure the internal spacing of the plates adds the thinkness of the two flanges of the FR8 beraings into the total size of the opening.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Motor Plate Assembly Exploded View.jpg (30.9 KB, 1356 views)
File Type: jpg My%20Pix%20032.jpg (113.9 KB, 1352 views)
File Type: jpg My%20Pix%20033.jpg (111.9 KB, 1347 views)
File Type: jpg My%20Pix%20034.jpg (111.3 KB, 1349 views)
File Type: jpg My%20Pix%20044.jpg (116.7 KB, 1356 views)
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