The incredible cheap build is building boats #31 - Western Washington, USA

[bradm]

Ubuntu, and Linux in general are unlikely to be complete solutions for the design stage. You can do a reasonable job (for 2D work) using QCAD and dxf2gcode, but it takes some effort.

I'm currently using a combination of the above, plus Sketchup with a variety of plugins.

[lumberjack_jeff]

Have you tried g-simple?

I've used Ace Converter, it seems similar to dxf2gcode in capability, but my success has been limited.

I had better luck with the free download of sheetcam, but 180 lines of gcode is a tough constraint.

g-simple sounds very much like sheetcam... for one thing it allows pocketing. I have a couple of small relief-engraved signs that friends are asking for, but neither Ace Converter or the freebie sheetcam can do it.

Also, I highly recommend nc-plot.

[lumberjack_jeff]

Blue paint?

Check.

Cutting on it's own power?

Check.

Making dust?

At risk of understatement, check.

Logos?

Check.

Thanks to everyone who helped along the way, including George, Leonard and especially Gerald.

Bottom line? I haven't totalled it up exactly, but about $2500 excluding generally-useful tools (such as a $99 steel cutting saw) but including two routers, bits and a dust collector.

Speaking of which, Harbor Freight retail stores are currently discounting their 2hp unit $70. When I get back to civilization on Monday, I'll build my dust foot.

[Doug_Ford]

Congrats Jeff. She looks great.

[Gerald D]

For only $2500?? I will take two please!!

Great job Jeff!

[jhiggins7]

Jeff,

Congratulations on a great build. Inspiring! Low cost and FAST too!

The updated Builder's Log is here.

[domino11]

Jeff,
Awesome build.

[Kobus_Joubert]

Well done.

[lumberjack_jeff]

Here are some photos of a boat model project we are currently working on.

The plans came from a well known marine architect, we are currently building quarter-scale trade show display models of his 16' outboard runabout, with the anticipation of offering kits (of both the model and the fullsize boat) starting early in the new year.

I'll update you with more when I can.


Here I am putting together the assembly jig for aligning the bulkheads. (the fullsize boat will have a similar jig, just bigger)


Here's the boat with a couple of hull panels stitched to (and around) the bulkheads. Building a stitch-and-glue boat is a bit like reassembling a banana from the peels.


Here's an assembled model kit showing how the panels are stitched together and the epoxy fillets are applied. This model was actually made first, the one shown in the photos above will be completely finished. This one will be left as-is.




There you go Nils.

The photos are primarily for the purpose of creating an illustrated kit assembly manual. We want to make our kits as foolproof as possible, since I volunteered to take care of the after-sale support.

[lumberjack_jeff]

Strip-molded canoes are built around a frame. Most of the work in fact, is the construction of that assembly jig.



A mechmate makes this easy. The entire assembly frame, including the stringers to set the bulkhead spacing and alignment, the keys to hold the stringers in place as well as some u-shaped pieces to clamp the strips to the frame sections was cut from a single 4x8 sheet of OSB (about $6 USD).

OSB doesn't hold fasteners very well, so it was cut out with keys to hold the assembly together. The frame is freestanding without any glue or fasteners. The only glue is the RTV I used to affix the jig to my "table" after laser alignment.



The table of offsets for the frame sections (let's call 'em bulkheads despite the fact that they don't play any role in the finished boat) yielded curves which were not very fair. I plugged the coordinates which describe those curves into a curve fitting program which made a much smoother bulkhead shape.

The hull is from a western red cedar that fell behind my house 2 years ago. I sawed it up into 5/4 boards, then into 1/4" strips which had a bead and cove applied to allow the strips to nest against one another to avoid visible gaps.



It's not yet finished, I have to add a laminated outer stem, a seat and a sheer clamp (board around the sheer to stiffen the edge). I will then epoxy the entire thing inside and out and apply a sheet of 6 oz fiberglass cloth. I think I'll paint the bottom half (to hide most of the mistakes) and finish the top and inside bright.

[riesvantwisk]

Jeff,

one word 'Amazing!'
Great Job

Ries

[jehayes]

Jeff: Who designed the stitch and Glue boat? Thanks for the pics. Joe

[lumberjack_jeff]

Hi Joe,

I can't say yet, because the business stuff still hasn't been completely worked out.

I'll let everyone know when the plan is in place. I will say that you'll probably see these models at the Seattle Boat Show at Lake Union, January 29th thru February 6th.

I am extremely impressed with his design, the pieces fit together perfectly.

[jehayes]

Let me know where and when I can see them.

I am hoping to start on a Core Sound 20 (see here: http://www.bandbyachtdesigns.com/cs20.htm) once I get my MM running (early in the New Year?) so I will be very interested in sharing notes with you before cutting the sheets of (very expensive) marine ply.

In fact, that is why I started on the steel MM project, to build some wooden boats!

Joe on Whidbey

[lumberjack_jeff]

One of the plans I've looked carefully at is the Core Sound 17... a really nice design. My only gripe is I want something I can row as well as sail.

Have you looked at Welsford designs? I'm really partial to the Walkabout. (but the Pathfinder and Navigator are great as well)

http://www.jwboatdesigns.co.nz/plans...bout/index.htm

There are so many excellent designs out there, it's hard to choose.

[jehayes]

The walkabout is a nice looking boat. One can row a CS-17 easily but the design is not optimized for that. BTW - have you seen the "wavy scarf" joint and, if so, have you figured out the "G" code to make them? (See: http://seaside5592.blogspot.com/2005...ped-scarf.html) Thanks Joe

[lumberjack_jeff]

I've done a fair amount of head scratching about how to do the wavy stepped scarf joint, thinking that it was a panacea. When I talked at length about scarf options with the designer of the models above, his conclusion is that on composite hulls of 1/2" thickness or less, tapered scarfs are a waste of effort at best, or at worst, the transition point on either end of the scarf becomes a new weak point. All that glue perpendicular to the panel also makes a "hard spot" which doesn't flex as fairly as the rest of the panel.

Once you sheath the hull in cloth, the benefits of a very large glue joint kind of go away.

He's pretty down on hull scarfs. He saves scarfing for timbers and rails.

On the fullsize kit, the hull panels will be joined puzzle-piece style similar to the PT skiff http://www.ptwatercraft.com/ptwatercraft/PT_SKIFF.html

[lumberjack_jeff]

Here's the finished canoe.




This guy (my eldest son) weighs about 190#.


The canoe was built primarily with my 11 year old in mind. It works great for him.


The camera adds 20 pounds that the canoe could ill-afford.

I recommend this design for anyone who weighs less than 150#.

I hope to have some photos of the big boat soon, it's going together perfectly, but here's a sample.

[javeria]

those are beautiful pics jeff

[Travish]

Beautiful work Jeff! Amazing to see what you have done and kept things very practical for what you do. Impressive to say the least! keep up the great work and thanks for sharing your passion with us. Seeing your photo's helps motivate those of us who are building dive back into the garage/shop and keep at it until it's built.

Thanks again,
Travis

[lumberjack_jeff]

I just installed timing belt speed reducers (4:1) using the belts and pulleys from This post. Be aware that the small pulley is equipped with shields, and with the belt shown, the center distance *just barely* allows the two pulleys to fit... I turned the small pulley down 0.10" on the shield od.

I used Keling KL34H280_45_4A steppers.

I haven't checked the upper performance boundary yet, but I'm easily getting 500 ipm, and the only perceptible backlash is a function of belt tension.

All told, it cost about $400.

BTW, I'm still building boats. Life is good.

[Gerald D]

Good to see you Jeff. Interesting boat - what are the aft-facing "horns" up fwd?

[Alan_c]

Knee braces to brace a standing fisherman according to the webpage.

[sprayhead]

Hi Jeff,

Why did you changed from your geared motors? was it only because of the backlash? Did the motors give you other problems?

Regards,
F.

[lumberjack_jeff]

Originally Posted by Gerald D

Good to see you Jeff. Interesting boat - what are the aft-facing "horns" up fwd?

Nice to see you as well, I hope your new endeavors are succeeding.

In the northwest US, boats built for the purpose of "drifting" (e.g. navigating rapids) evolved to fish technically challenging rivers.

Here's a good example of the type: Driftboat kits.

I think I'm going to revisit the forward deck area design. Close, but not quite what I want - the knee braces will probably be a bit low for the 6' 2" buyer.

[lumberjack_jeff]

Originally Posted by sprayhead

Hi Jeff,

Why did you changed from your geared motors? was it only because of the backlash? Did the motors give you other problems?

Regards,
F.

Two issues: first was the backlash, which was only a problem for our puzzle splices and when cutting aluminum. They were otherwise fine for sign work and the like.

The second was my attempt to use 1/2" pinions on a 12mm motor shaft. Suboptimal.

The new drives are much faster, which is good, but I don't expect it'll make a huge difference in how long it takes to do a project, since I'm speed limited by what my router can cut and what a router bit will tolerate.

It's a slow process of optimization. I think I've eliminated 95% of the suck now.

[lumberjack_jeff]

http://www.westsatsop.com/

Launching day.

[smreish]

That is one fantastic looking PNW vessel! Nice high sides, plenty of power.....ahh

[Gerald D]

A real practical functional boat - nice job!

[javeria]

Humsafar! - nice - very nice! - thats URDU word, when I build my hovercraft - this is what I will name it to - hope the wife is ok with having a machine with that name. LOL