MechMate CNC Router Forum

Go Back   MechMate CNC Router Forum > Structure & Mechanics > 10. Base Table
Register Options Profile Last 1 | 3 | 7 Days Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old Thu 24 April 2008, 08:23
ekdenton
Just call me: Ed #8
 
Alamogordo, NM
United States of America
Holding smaller parts on table

I don't want to go with a vacum type table but I am also wondering about holding parts that are smaller than the spoilboard . How are you supposed to clamp the sides opposite the 0,0 edge, or the edges of your materials if they are too small to clamp to the edges of the spoilboard?

I have seen some aluminum track that can be screwed into a routered pocket and has attatchment clamps that slide inside the track.

I didn't know if that is a good idea since the spoil board is continually getting thinner, and eventually the track would have to be removed to keep from getting hit by the cutting tool.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old Thu 24 April 2008, 08:48
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Very common are plain old screws into the spoilboard. More fancy is this one: http://www.raptornails.com/english/firstframe.html
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old Thu 24 April 2008, 09:07
cbboatworks
Just call me: Gene
 
Wilmington NC
United States of America
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerald D View Post
Very common are plain old screws into the spoilboard. More fancy is this one: http://www.raptornails.com/english/firstframe.html
I use the Raptor Nails. I have to say the composite nails work great and will not hurt the tool. I have built a 36' boat with them and they are very strong and forgiving. not bad in price ether I pay around $28 to $30 for a box of 2350pc.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old Thu 24 April 2008, 09:11
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Gene,
Those nails look like they can be driven with a pneumatic nailer. Have you used them this way or just driven them in by hand? What type of nailer do they work in if you used one?
Hope you are feeling better.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old Thu 24 April 2008, 09:46
ekdenton
Just call me: Ed #8
 
Alamogordo, NM
United States of America
Those look interesting. So you can hammer those into the mdf board and they will go into the board without breaking?


I was thinking of slotting one spot on my support board and spoilboard so that I can do fingerjoints and dovetail joints.

Something simmilar to what this guy did with his table. He has a hobbie size cnc with aluminum table, so it's not the same but I think it would be easy to use the same idea on my table to make box joints.

Anyone doing anything like this yet?

Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old Thu 24 April 2008, 09:53
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
ED,
Check out the shopbot talk forum. They have some links to guys doing all kinds of joints on their bots. They usually clamp the board to the end of the table. Search for Knapp joint and see some really nice joinery that is doable on a cnc. You are not limitied to plain old box joints.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old Thu 24 April 2008, 16:03
cbboatworks
Just call me: Gene
 
Wilmington NC
United States of America
Quote:
Originally Posted by domino11 View Post
Gene,
Those nails look like they can be driven with a pneumatic nailer. Have you used them this way or just driven them in by hand? What type of nailer do they work in if you used one?
Hope you are feeling better.
The nails are for a pneumatic nailer. I use a 15ga harbor freight nail gun. Raptor sales a gun that they recomend but it cost over $300.00.I told them I would take my chance with the $20.00 HF gun. I have shot over 6000 nails with no problems.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old Mon 05 May 2008, 23:52
Kobus_Joubert
Just call me: Kobus #6
 
Dalview
South Africa
Send a message via Yahoo to Kobus_Joubert Send a message via Skype™ to Kobus_Joubert
I contacted the LOCAL agent in South Africa. This is his reply:

Price on the mini nail gun up to 38mm is R2200-00

Price on 25mm plastic brads is R77.35 per 1000 (normally 2000 nails in a box
and 20 boxes in a carton)

These prices exclude Vat and valid for 7 days

As I said they are very expensive still and we would need a faxed order and
50% deposit before we import them.

Pity
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old Fri 09 May 2008, 06:14
Jan de Ruyter
Just call me: Jan
 
Pretoria
South Africa
I used rivnuts with great success on another project. Drill holes in a pattern (say 100mm square) little shy of od of nut push rivnut from bottom so as not to interfere with bit and use normal 6/8/10 bolt to clamp. Wurt sells them.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old Wed 14 May 2008, 15:37
ekdenton
Just call me: Ed #8
 
Alamogordo, NM
United States of America
Are the rivnuts the same as what they call Tee-nuts?

I had forgot about those. I wonder if they will hold in the mdf board okay? I have used these with holes about every 12" apart on 3/4" plywood to make climbing walls before and they work pretty good.

Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old Wed 14 May 2008, 19:38
Kevin
Just call me: Kevin
 
Canton, NC (In the Smoky Mountains)
United States of America
Ed

Mcmaster-carr has them... I have used them for years... countersink the hole a little before you install them and the will be flush...

http://www.mcmaster.com/ search: rivet nut

Last edited by Kevin; Wed 14 May 2008 at 19:40..
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old Thu 15 May 2008, 04:37
Jan de Ruyter
Just call me: Jan
 
Pretoria
South Africa
No, rivnuts are different, insert them from the bottom, no need to countersink or hammer them in, mdf doesn't like hammering. Just drill hole little bit shy so you don't need to buy the riviter, which is expensive.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old Thu 15 May 2008, 05:24
Alan_c
Just call me: Alan (#11)
 
Grabouw (Western Cape)
South Africa
Send a message via Skype™ to Alan_c
Woodserts are another option as they can be installed from the top of the board - found a PDF file here.

They are made by Wurth and others

Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old Thu 15 May 2008, 05:57
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
Send a message via Skype™ to J.R. Hatcher
Alan the good thing is these can be bought in brass, so if they are accidentally cut it's not the end of the world.

Jan you probably already know this but others might not ..... rivnuts are designed to have the bolt go in through the flanged end first, therefore the tighter they get the more squeeze they exert on the material they are going through.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old Thu 15 May 2008, 06:16
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
Send a message via Skype™ to J.R. Hatcher
Here is a picture of rivnuts. When used with a rivnut gun they mushroom in the middle just like a regular rivet. The end opposite the flange is threaded.

Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old Wed 11 June 2008, 05:08
cabnet636
Just call me: jim
 
columbia sc
United States of America
festool

i saw this and made me a table 24" wide (x) and 96" long (y) for small parts and long fluting, the clamps came from festool (80.00 $ a pair) and have proven them selves flawless
jim mcgrew

Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old Wed 11 June 2008, 06:41
Richards
Just call me: Mike
 
South Jordan, UT
United States of America
I have the Festool clamps and use them frequently; however, they sometimes tend to lift one edge of the material off the table by about 1/16 inch or more. Sometimes a tap with a mallet seats the material, and sometimes it doesn't. Most of the time that "lift" isn't a problem, but when accurate depth of cut is essential, I use traditional C-clamps, Vacuum Clamps, or screws.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old Fri 13 June 2008, 12:58
WTI
Just call me: James
 
Detroit (Michigan)
United States of America
Carr-Lane makes many different toggle clamps that people use for fixturing around here:

http://www.carrlane.com/Catalog/inde...173C3B28535241
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old Fri 13 June 2008, 14:06
dmoore
Just call me:
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by WTI View Post
Carr-Lane makes many different toggle clamps..
For the cheap-skates amoung us:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96237


Others, simular:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96233
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96234

An interesting clamp:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=97051
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old Fri 13 June 2008, 14:44
RLH3
Just call me: Roman
 
Reno, NV
United States of America
Mike:

Do you use the screw part from underneath the table or just the clamp part on top? I have noticed that there is less deflection of the workpiece with using both parts of the clamp versus when just using the upper portion.

Roman
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old Fri 13 June 2008, 18:06
Richards
Just call me: Mike
 
South Jordan, UT
United States of America
Roman,

I hadn't thought of using the screw part. My "clamping platform" sits on top of my vacuum platen, so there is no access from below. But, you're right. The using the screw part would keep the clamps from lifting.

(To tell the truth, until I read your post, I'd forgotten all about the screw part. I had to dig through the Festool stuff to find them. At least when I use the Festool Multifunction Table, I'll be able to clamp things down better.)
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old Mon 16 June 2008, 08:29
ekdenton
Just call me: Ed #8
 
Alamogordo, NM
United States of America
The t track is what I had originally thought of using, but I didn't want to have to use it within my existing spoilboard, because then you couldn't use the spoilboard for it's intentional use you would cutt into the aluminum track cutting any deeper than the project. It would defeat the design of having a spoilboard table.

I would still like to make a smaller board maybe 30in x 48in that has these t tracks in it. That way I could clamp the outer edges of the 30 x 48 board onto the spoilboard and have the use of the clamps for smaller stuff and remove the board for cutting full sheets.

Does something like this sound like it would be a good idea ??

Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old Mon 16 June 2008, 08:41
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Ed, it is fairly standard practice to have "pallets" that are equipped with holding fixtures/tools, and then to clamp these pallets to the table.
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old Mon 01 September 2008, 14:06
isladelobos
Just call me: Ros
 
Canary Islands
Spain
Send a message via MSN to isladelobos Send a message via Yahoo to isladelobos
i'm painted this plain for see this simple system for hold parts in the base table.

we need a Plunge router for long holes in the table.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Support board system.jpg (15.3 KB, 1317 views)
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old Sun 11 July 2010, 20:33
lunaj76
Just call me: Justin #24
 
Littleton, (Colorado)
United States of America
Send a message via Skype™ to lunaj76
cutting tabs after machining

Hi,

I have a dilema. I want to cut some parts that slot together out of 1/4" or 6MM Baltic Birch (material is thinner than 1/4"). I will nest the parts and use tabs to hold everything together. Here is my problem. I would like to use a flush triming bit in a palm router to cut the tabs after machining. But I can't find a bit smaller than 1/4" to fit my contouring bit that is 7/32.

Has anyone ever heard of a flush trimming bit smaller than 1/4".

Could I some how cut all these small pieces on the mechmate without using tabs? Custom vacume plenum? I don't want to cut all these tabs by hand and then clean them up. I just want to cut the small parts out on the machine.

Any suggestions welcome THANKS!

Justin
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old Sun 11 July 2010, 23:14
Kobus_Joubert
Just call me: Kobus #6
 
Dalview
South Africa
Send a message via Yahoo to Kobus_Joubert Send a message via Skype™ to Kobus_Joubert
Are there any hole in the piece ? If so, drill / cut these first. Put a screw or nail maybe with a washer to hold it down, then cut and trim the outsides.
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old Sun 11 July 2010, 23:31
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
The most basic method:... Climb on the table with a stick and hold each part down when the cutter does the last part of the breakthrough. (Make sure that the start/end of the cut is on the opposite side to where you stand/kneel)
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old Mon 12 July 2010, 12:22
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
Send a message via Skype™ to J.R. Hatcher
Justin how thick are the tabs?
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old Mon 12 July 2010, 12:42
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
Send a message via Skype™ to J.R. Hatcher
Justin have a look at these bits, they work for me.

http://www.amazon.com/Vermont-Americ...959226&sr=1-17

and

http://www.woodworkersworld.net/flush_trim_bits.shtml see bit SC28B on this page
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old Tue 13 July 2010, 10:17
lunaj76
Just call me: Justin #24
 
Littleton, (Colorado)
United States of America
Send a message via Skype™ to lunaj76
JR,

I found a flush trim bit 3/16" from Amana tool. I cut some parts last night and I think I will have to make a custom vacume plenum. I so want to cut fast with the part coming off the table finished. I think something like a Brady vac will work for large production runs. I have been looking into gasket mask also.

Gerald,

After and hour of leaning over the table my legs were getting so tired.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Register Options Profile Last 1 | 3 | 7 Days Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 15:59.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.