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  #1  
Old Tue 03 April 2012, 19:34
parrulho
Just call me: Paulo #108
 
willemstad
Netherlands Antilles
First Cuts #108 - Willemstad,Netherlands

Oi galera!

I'm reading this forum for around 2 years, dreaming and been happy as other builders get running machines... During that time I have build an workshop where the mechmate will be the king of that space, getting tools that will be essencials and have collected almost all parts (from Metalhead, thanks). Now it's my time...

Here I'm, bald and no beard

I'm a portuguese living in Curacao, Netherland Antilles. Have worked, long time ago, from 1986 to 1996, in Portugal, with a CNC in textil industry, cutting tissue. It was from a French company, Lectra Systems... Now, thanks to Gerald I will have one for me

Thanks Gerald, Metalhead and all community.

No more cutting tissues, it will cut principally wood, official it will cut art to display on wife's art business and cut some boat parts for myself in the middle

Only need to finish that canoe to get space... My main concern is weld (I'm practicing) and no problems in electronics, I hope...
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  #2  
Old Tue 03 April 2012, 21:46
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Welcome Paulo! Looks like you are off to a good start.
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  #3  
Old Wed 04 April 2012, 01:30
Axel1966
Just call me: Axel
 
Paris
France
Yes indeed !
Congratulations for your new workshop, it looks great !
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  #4  
Old Wed 04 April 2012, 10:14
bolingerbe
Just call me: Bryan #54
 
Clinton(Tennessee)
United States of America
Welcome Paulo. The welding is not bad, and you will have a lot of good advice along the way. Good to see your progress and look forward to seeing you build.
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  #5  
Old Sat 07 April 2012, 10:07
Metalsmith
Just call me: Metalsmith
 
Jacksonville, Fl
United States of America
A man after my heart....

a wood strip boat builder....is that cedar...people are so amazed at how lite they can be.....have built one in 42 years, but getting the itch !
Why so much steel ....that will be a big machine....taht is hefty stuff !
I am a welder..... I may be wrong but I don't feel that they need to be welded solid ....they don't when building skyscrapers.... I will use a 3/4" on the corners and 1", every 3 or 4 inches.....If you dont want the side beams to warp , don't weld across the top or bottom...wrap around the corners and skip-weld down the sides...pick up a structural welding book !

Last edited by Metalsmith; Sat 07 April 2012 at 10:13.. Reason: more info !
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  #6  
Old Sun 08 April 2012, 18:51
parrulho
Just call me: Paulo #108
 
willemstad
Netherlands Antilles
Thank you Metalsmith for your advices. Machine size will be for 4' x 8' boards. I'll follow the plans except for legs (will use square tube 70x70x3 and instead of round tube will use square tube 50x20x3)... I don't want to invent anything and legs do not interfere with functions of other parts. In the pile of steel you can see some that I'm using for small security fences. it's just to fell the welding on my hands before the real thing.

I like cedar strip boats and I have plans to build, but this one is marine plywood... build cheap to sell cheap.

Last edited by parrulho; Sun 08 April 2012 at 19:13.. Reason: correct word
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  #7  
Old Sun 09 December 2012, 23:30
parrulho
Just call me: Paulo #108
 
willemstad
Netherlands Antilles
Official start of my machine

hello people, greetings from Curacao.

Ok. My canoe is stored for now and got room for Mechmate... finally. On 27Nov2012 I started to cut X and Y rails. have started with confidence. no problems to cut it down to 2.8cm... then, I'm able to advice: do not start to cut the 45 angles before you are sure and confirm that the rails are top flat. I started to cut angles right away and the result was 26mm height on Y rails and 28 on X rails... thanks God I did not loose nothing... but a little frustrated.

Also use a scrap piece of wood as a base and avoid to use the 4 bolts as a base to get the rail flat. it's ok to cut but not enough to get it really flat.. it's a good help.

When on 45 angles use good very hard steel on bolts used to control height. It needs one complete turn to get the measurements. put mark on the bolt where you start. use the hexagone form as a reference. use grit 36 to on first two passes then grit 60 on 3rd and 4th and finish with grit 80 on 5th and last 6th. It served me well. Hope it will help new people.

Regards and never tired to say thanks to Gerald.

paulo
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  #8  
Old Fri 04 January 2013, 21:32
parrulho
Just call me: Paulo #108
 
willemstad
Netherlands Antilles
base table welded

Not nice welds but they are strong. I'm happy with it
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  #9  
Old Mon 28 January 2013, 09:23
parrulho
Just call me: Paulo #108
 
willemstad
Netherlands Antilles
gantry is done

After battling to get the cross members square and both the same size (lack of right tools) gantry is done, squared and true. Next Y car...
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  #10  
Old Mon 28 January 2013, 09:32
Axel1966
Just call me: Axel
 
Paris
France
Hi,
Nice work !
Are the casters permanent ?
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  #11  
Old Mon 28 January 2013, 09:40
parrulho
Just call me: Paulo #108
 
willemstad
Netherlands Antilles
It's temporary, when it's full painted and inside the shop it will be removed and normal feet will be mounted.
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  #12  
Old Tue 29 January 2013, 03:14
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Very good work, I see your design allows for material storage. Nice!
Tom
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  #13  
Old Wed 30 January 2013, 18:21
parrulho
Just call me: Paulo #108
 
willemstad
Netherlands Antilles
having hard time setting y car before weld.. fixing one side get the other off...

Attached Images
File Type: jpg Graphic1.jpg (18.9 KB, 1707 views)
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  #14  
Old Thu 31 January 2013, 06:27
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
...that looks familiar.
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  #15  
Old Thu 07 February 2013, 21:38
parrulho
Just call me: Paulo #108
 
willemstad
Netherlands Antilles
gantry and Y car complete and painted

I was worrying too much with Y car. Have removed all the clamps and started welding-control-adjust, weld next and repeat until it completes...at the end it was OK. Next: drill and mount rails and start rolling.....
Attached Images
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  #16  
Old Mon 25 February 2013, 07:37
parrulho
Just call me: Paulo #108
 
willemstad
Netherlands Antilles
Hello happy people,

I'm looking for a reason why the proximity switch does not match the 20mm hole on rails. they are offset... Have searched the forum for it but it's taking me long time (what is not normal, let say...) any help is welcome.

regards,
Paulo
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  #17  
Old Mon 25 February 2013, 08:37
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Paulo,
The 20mm hole in the rail is the TARGET for the proximity switches. The switches are optional. The offset insert for the 20mm hole is for the ability to adjust the TARGET hole in the rail after installation.

The proximity sensor is reverse logic. It is always active and sense the metal below it to detect a derail or other "jump the track" scenario. The hole is so the sensor does NOT see the rail and thus, act like a limit switch.

The proximity sensors are dual function.

Drawing # 10 20 246/247 show the drill details of the hole.
The thread that covers this is:
http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=584
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  #18  
Old Mon 25 February 2013, 09:47
parrulho
Just call me: Paulo #108
 
willemstad
Netherlands Antilles
Thank you Sean,
When I said "the proximity switch do not match the 20mm hole" was mean: the center of the proximity switch, when mounted on the stop block, do not match the center of the 20mm hole. they do not share the same center, there are a offset of around 8 or 10mm (I can't verify it right now). Is it done to be able to fine adjust the target? Sorry I can't explain it better in english
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  #19  
Old Mon 25 February 2013, 10:20
cleyte
Just call me: Clayton #106
 
Bishop's Falls, Newfoundland
Canada
In my case, a few washers behind the stop block was enough to produce alignment.
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  #20  
Old Mon 25 February 2013, 12:13
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Oh, my misunderstanding.
Just add a few washers between the proximity block and side of gantry steel to "push" the sensor towards center line of the table until centered. Be careful not add to many to cause the hard stop bracket to miss the end stop adjustable stop blocks.
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  #21  
Old Mon 25 February 2013, 12:18
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
I don't think the prox switch is your biggest problem . . . . . . your pinion gears probably won't reach the racks either . . . . .
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  #22  
Old Mon 25 February 2013, 13:30
parrulho
Just call me: Paulo #108
 
willemstad
Netherlands Antilles
At the moment I'm far away from my table to check but my table is very accurate on measures. In my head the center of the proximity switch offset from target is the way it was planed, with a purpose... if the centers must be coincident, I need to further investigate where my error is. By the way the 20mm target hole is not drilled yet, I stopped when have reached that point... Thank you all.
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  #23  
Old Mon 25 February 2013, 18:31
parrulho
Just call me: Paulo #108
 
willemstad
Netherlands Antilles
Man, what a shame I would be very tired two days ago... the offset was not 8 or 10 but 5mm. I have marked and punched the center hole target by the plan and then rolled the gantry against the stop block and with a pen marker trough the proxy hole I marked the supposed center... the pen marker was tilted and gave me a bigger difference... after some adjust the real offset is 3mm. "storm in a tea coup" will never happen again.

I'll move 1mm the center hole target and use washers, as advised...
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  #24  
Old Wed 27 February 2013, 13:20
parrulho
Just call me: Paulo #108
 
willemstad
Netherlands Antilles
I can't buy from McMaster, they do not sell outside USA. It turns very difficult to get some parts (in a small island as Curacao). Today I get a beautiful Z plate: 1/4x10x18 not sure if it is hardened or not. The ends are yellow painted... is it a code?

Still needed are racks/pinions and tape to get all parts with me.
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  #25  
Old Thu 28 February 2013, 06:36
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Yes it is a paint code!
See the link here for reference.

http://www.southerntoolsteel.com/color-codes.html
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  #26  
Old Mon 18 March 2013, 19:27
parrulho
Just call me: Paulo #108
 
willemstad
Netherlands Antilles
it rolls very smooth... man, I'm falling in love with that machine!!!
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  #27  
Old Tue 19 March 2013, 05:15
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
Send a message via Yahoo to Robert M Send a message via Skype™ to Robert M
Paulo….not to worry being transparent over your emotions…..
Many here will raise a hand as follower / part of some who deliberately say this : I’m in love with this machine…..but I’m married to my wife ^_^ !!

Although, in my specific case…..i ‘m no longer with her…..but still with my BB
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  #28  
Old Mon 08 April 2013, 12:57
parrulho
Just call me: Paulo #108
 
willemstad
Netherlands Antilles
http://www.lightobject.com/22KW-2400...20V-P714.aspx#

Anyone knows that spindle? is it the same chinese spindle at sale on ebay with a different cover? no plastics on that one...
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  #29  
Old Wed 10 April 2013, 17:20
danilom
Just call me: Danilo #64
 
Novi Sad
Serbia
its the same one, no plastic on any of the water cooled spindles
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  #30  
Old Wed 10 April 2013, 22:12
parrulho
Just call me: Paulo #108
 
willemstad
Netherlands Antilles
Thanks Danilo. I was thinking allbblack partes was plastic..
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