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#31
Wed 11 January 2012, 19:47
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If you purchased it from John at antek, he is usually pretty good with returns and such. Just ask.
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#32
Thu 12 January 2012, 07:22
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You said 36V at 10A? = 360 VA?
Try a forum search for "300va", where you will find many entries like these: http://mechmate.com/forums/showthrea...00va#post53652 http://mechmate.com/forums/showthrea...00va#post53811 http://mechmate.com/forums/showthrea...00va#post53505 http://mechmate.com/forums/showthrea...00va#post52234 http://mechmate.com/forums/showthrea...00va#post50041 http://mechmate.com/forums/showthrea...00va#post48495 The evidence appears to point at 300va being sufficient.
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#33
Mon 16 January 2012, 19:29
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my control box
I'm just getting the control box started. I laid it all out and secured things this afternoon. I went ahead and got another power supply although i'm pretty sure it's overkill. I may hook it up both ways just to see if there is any noticeable difference.
[IMG]    [/IMG]Last edited by Darin; Mon 16 January 2012 at 19:37..
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#34
Mon 16 January 2012, 19:40
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Darin,
Are those switching power supplies? How are you planning on hooking the two of them up?
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#35
Mon 16 January 2012, 20:07
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Nice layout so far. If space gets tight you can put the heatsink outside the case like this.
http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showt...&postcount=119
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#36
Mon 16 January 2012, 20:09
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#37
Mon 16 January 2012, 20:45
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Mike,
I seriously considered doing that with the heatsink. but it's all in there I think. Was I correct to modify the emergency switch by cutting the the small extension off the back? I couldn't figure any other way for it to work with the switches. I think i have things figured out enough to start wiring but whats the function of the small switch for the outside of the door? Domino,  Umm I'm embarresed to say I'm not sure, and I dont no what you mean by switching power supply. Sounds like iv'e got some searching and reading to do. The plan was to run a pair of Gekko's from each supply.
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#38
Mon 16 January 2012, 21:11
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Let me check on the button. Your the second person that has said that. I have tested all the part numbers and things should fit no problem.
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#39
Mon 16 January 2012, 21:54
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Darin,
A switching power supply is a more complicated type of power supply. It is regulated and operates at a higher switching frequency to reduce the size of the transformer inside. This makes it lighter but more complex. A traditional linear unregulated type power supply is basically just a transformer, rectifier diodes and a smoothing capacitor. Switching type power supplies also usually (but not always) have a cooling fan which can be problematic when sawdust is around. Also switchers usually do not like to be wired in parallel, that was why I asked how you were planning on hooking them up. Do you have any specs on the supply? Part No etc?
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#40
Mon 16 January 2012, 22:15
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Heath,
Iv'e been doing my homework since you asked and these are switching type power supplies, with cooling fans that are thermostatically controlled. With two of them I'm thinking i'm okay as far as being lighter. I don't plan to tie them together parallel but keep them independent and split the load between the two of them. As far as dust goes my intentions are to try running without outside air input initially then if heat is an issue I will pressurize the box with a fan drawing through a filter with a slightly restrictive exhaust. Thank you for leading me to looking onto the difference in power supplies I continue to learn and that was a pretty good tidbit I'm not sure how I missed long ago. KL-350-36 http://www.kelinginc.net/SwitchingPowerSupply.html http://www.kelinginc.net/Listofpower.pdf Last edited by Darin; Mon 16 January 2012 at 22:28..
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#41
Tue 17 January 2012, 05:28
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Darin - If you are not going to have a fan you may for sure want to mount that heat sink to the side of the box. Or get another one
 I have one that is 18 inches long.
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#42
Tue 17 January 2012, 06:56
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Mike,
I see your point either get the heatsink in open air or get some outside air in. I will arrange one or the other. Thanks
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#43
Tue 17 January 2012, 17:01
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On the E-Stop. What you have to do is place the contactor in one of the edge slots (There are 3 - right, middle and left) and not in the middle slot. The piece on the e-stop that sticks down causes issues in the middle slot. I will try to get a few pictures and put a few posts in the TS area on this.
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#44
Tue 17 January 2012, 19:50
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Quote:
I re-did a lot of my control cabinet layout and went with the heatsink through the side like you suggested. I like the idea of passive cooling. No fan to buy, maintain, or fail. I'm happy with my progress just wish I had more time to get it done. [IMG]      [/IMG]
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#45
Tue 17 January 2012, 20:36
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That looks like you have plenty of room now.
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#46
Wed 18 January 2012, 06:42
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Darin,
Could you share the supplier of your heatsink? I really like the concept of passive cooling like you now have yours. Darren
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#47
Wed 18 January 2012, 07:00
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Darren,
I bought it from Mike "Metalhead"
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#48
Wed 18 January 2012, 09:19
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 I'm your man on the heatsink
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#49
Wed 18 January 2012, 10:46
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Seems like you offer quite a bit more than is listed on the CVsupply site, Mike.
Can you PM me some info on it? Dimensions and a cost? Thanks
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#50
Wed 18 January 2012, 18:45
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Darren,
I could not be happier with the parts and service I got from Mike.
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#51
Wed 18 January 2012, 18:55
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I got some wiring accomplished this afternoon. I have the contractor working and all the components powered up.
[IMG]    [/IMG]
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#52
Mon 23 January 2012, 19:59
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I'm nearing the end of the kitchen table project. I haven't hooked the computer up yet but I think once I get the parallel cable I should be able to spin motors. I'm still a little confused about one thing though.
What is the exact function for the green remote start button? I'm thinking it can be used like the Mach screen button "start" If that's correct do I just connect that button across any unused pin to ground and use a NO contact so that pushing it gives a momentary ground to that pin and then assign that pin the function in Mach? I have begun setting up Mach. I've done it before for another machine so i think I have the basics right. Is there a checklist somewhere? That would be helpful. I've put off installing stop blocks I need to get that done before I can make any dust. Thanks everyone for the help along the way.
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#53
Mon 23 January 2012, 20:46
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not to sure about your start button, but here is a decent guide to a basic mach3 setup. http://kelinginc.net/Mach3setup.pdf
goodluck with the rest of your build!
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#54
Fri 27 January 2012, 23:26
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Im thrilled to say I have motors spinning. I had to fiddle with parallel cards for hours but finnaly it all came to life! I also have the stops in place, I had procrastinated on. I just have a couple more relays to wire up and it will be time to join the table project to the machine.
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#55
Sat 28 January 2012, 06:37
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I'm very jealous, nice work so far.
One question- I see Mikes kit has DIN rail terminals in different colors, and I haven't been able to figure out what the colors would be used for. Anyone have a color code for this? ....probably staring me in the face.
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#56
Sat 28 January 2012, 07:24
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Darren,
I hope someone will correct me if im wrong but my take on the terminal colors is that they can be used to help you organize your wiring by color coding. There really is no standard and everyone develops their own. Personnaly I will only be using terminals for cables that go out to the machine or to the door of the control box, except the motor cables will skip the terminals and go straight to the gecko's. I plan to group things in colors and make some notes so when I have to trouble shoot in the future I will more easily be able to trace wires. I hope that helps and thanks for the nice comment about my work. Looks like your right behind me and doing nice work yourself. The pictures from your shop look like they could have been taken in my shop I guess we do similar work other than the mechmate.
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#57
Sat 28 January 2012, 07:51
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[IMG]
 [/IMG][IMG] [/IMG]
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#58
Sat 28 January 2012, 19:50
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I see where you been hangin out !!! Snax and all. And yes that is right on the terminals. Develop and use them however they work for you.
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#59
Sat 28 January 2012, 21:14
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you caught me Mike, hanging out,,well pretty well living there in that spot for two days. It was worth. it. All the setup and control box wiring is done! I'm ready to take it to the table tomorrow.
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#60
Sun 29 January 2012, 09:17
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Good job there Darin !!!.. If you are wiring your contactor as 110v I don't think you typically wire the ground/earth(green) wire through the contactor. I may be wrong, and I hope somebody corrects me if I am, but I think you always want ground connected regardless of the box being ON/OFF..
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