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  #301  
Old Tue 21 October 2014, 02:28
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Thanks Fellas
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  #302  
Old Tue 21 October 2014, 07:32
Tokamak
Just call me: John #121
 
Monrovia (ca)
United States of America
Sean and Pete,

You guys nailed it. Loose set screw on one of my X drive reduction pulleys. Going to double up the set screws.
When I first saw the bad cut I knew it had to be some mysterious design flaw or control configuration instead of a simple set screw. The teeth on the cut gears are perfect now.
Happy you guys are here listening.

Thanks again
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  #303  
Old Tue 21 October 2014, 07:34
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Use a knurled point set screw and blue loctite
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  #304  
Old Tue 21 October 2014, 08:45
Regnar
Just call me: Russell #69
 
Mobile, Alabama
United States of America
I also use Blue Loctite. I even put it on the shaft and pulley. It doesn't stop the pulleys from ever coming loose but makes it much further between tightenings. I have thought about putting tack welds on the spur gear and shaft so I could remove them from the trouble shooting.
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  #305  
Old Tue 21 October 2014, 11:51
Tokamak
Just call me: John #121
 
Monrovia (ca)
United States of America
I roll pinned my pinions to eliminate set screw problems there.

I'll give the hollow (jam nut style) set screw with a knurled one a try.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Roll Pinned Pinions.jpg (54.6 KB, 544 views)
File Type: jpg Hollow Set Screws.JPG (20.6 KB, 548 views)
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  #306  
Old Tue 21 October 2014, 14:22
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
<- put a tig tack weld at the end of the shaft and pinion after using the knurled set screw.

I trashed one 40 hour foam cutting job in the 38th hour due to it shifting.....welder got turned on after that one!
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  #307  
Old Tue 21 October 2014, 20:04
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Another option is LOCTITE 680™ Retaining Compound. We use it on flywheels to retain bearings that even when press fit would spin after sometime that are on press gearboxes. I can tell you that when applied right, we have to heat the flywheel for 20 minutes to compromise the compound enough to press the bearings out even after 20 months of 24/7 operation.
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  #308  
Old Wed 22 October 2014, 07:14
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Loctite is great and bit of heat will release it.
When I put a tack on that pinion - on the z - it was 3am and I wasn't keen on waiting til morning! LOL.

Thankfully it was a foam cutting job, so I able to save the part by using HILTI 2 part foam to fill in the overcut....restart the machine and recut the area.

"foam is a bit more forgiving when you mess up"
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  #309  
Old Thu 30 October 2014, 16:07
Tokamak
Just call me: John #121
 
Monrovia (ca)
United States of America
Finally got around to hanging the sign on my garage (dog house).
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DogHouse Sign Mounted.jpg (88.1 KB, 438 views)
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  #310  
Old Thu 30 October 2014, 16:49
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
Nice!!
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  #311  
Old Thu 30 October 2014, 17:31
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
I like it!
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  #312  
Old Fri 31 October 2014, 03:49
Duds
Just call me: Dale
 
Canberra
Australia
Are you in the doghouse aga John?!?! looks cool.
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  #313  
Old Mon 17 November 2014, 07:17
Tokamak
Just call me: John #121
 
Monrovia (ca)
United States of America
Mechmate with Laser?

Past couple of weeks I've been installing a Laser on the Machine. The circles were cut with Mach3 moving the machine and me pushing the button to fire the laser. The holes were made with me hitting the button as fast as I could. all done at half power.
Did some research last night and found out how to interface with Mach3 and Aspire's post processor. Thanks to a guy named Tweekie.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg MM Laser 2.jpg (89.3 KB, 327 views)
File Type: jpg MM with Laser.jpg (71.8 KB, 328 views)
File Type: jpg MM Laser Circles.JPG (39.5 KB, 327 views)
File Type: jpg MM Laser Holes.jpg (25.1 KB, 327 views)
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  #314  
Old Mon 17 November 2014, 07:54
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
That's some Mad Scientist looking stuff right there.
I'd love to know more.
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  #315  
Old Mon 17 November 2014, 09:15
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Holy Christmas! I hope you have great eye protection. And I thought my 48" Z axis was pushing it!
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  #316  
Old Mon 17 November 2014, 09:37
Tokamak
Just call me: John #121
 
Monrovia (ca)
United States of America
The laser tube is 47" long.
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  #317  
Old Mon 17 November 2014, 09:39
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
What are you using for a focal lens?
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  #318  
Old Mon 17 November 2014, 09:48
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Without the addition of safety glass to defuse or block the wavelength, be careful of scattered radiation from reflective surfaces.
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  #319  
Old Mon 17 November 2014, 09:53
Tokamak
Just call me: John #121
 
Monrovia (ca)
United States of America
•Zinc Selenide (ZnSe) - transparent in wide spectral range from yellow (visible) to far IR. ZnSe material is a chemically inert, non-hygroscopic and highly pure product that is very effective in many optical applications due to its extremely low bulk losses, high resistance to thermal shock and stability in virtually all environments, easily machined. To obtain superior transmittance, ZnSe crystals are grown by Chemical Vapor Deposition process . Zinc Selenide is polycrystalline material, demonstrates superior CO2 laser transmittance and is employed in the transmission optical components used in CO2 laser processing.

Standard stuff off the shelf. The one I'm using has a 2" focal length.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg MM laser Focus Lens.jpg (58.3 KB, 329 views)
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  #320  
Old Mon 17 November 2014, 10:03
Tokamak
Just call me: John #121
 
Monrovia (ca)
United States of America
Pete,
No doubt on the eye protection. You get two shots as long as you keep one eye closed. This frequency of laser burns the lens off your eye and it is invisible.
Thanks for watching out for me.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg glasses 2.jpg (65.2 KB, 333 views)
File Type: jpg Glasses.jpg (52.8 KB, 333 views)
File Type: jpg glasses 3a.jpg (85.9 KB, 332 views)
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  #321  
Old Mon 17 November 2014, 13:02
Duds
Just call me: Dale
 
Canberra
Australia
Wow! That's awesome, Star Wars home defence! I have soo many questions.

What's the power rating
Does it need cooling

For starters
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  #322  
Old Mon 17 November 2014, 14:39
Fox
Just call me: Fox
 
Amsterdam
Netherlands
Crazy ! But in a good way. Be Safe !

Do you know: http://www.lasersaur.com/
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  #323  
Old Mon 17 November 2014, 15:13
Tokamak
Just call me: John #121
 
Monrovia (ca)
United States of America
Dale,
Power is 80W. The Acrylic was cut using 40W. Could maybe do 1/4" with less. Cooling is done with a pond pump like the spindles. Setup is as easy as a spindle except for the mounting.

Fox,
Really crazy, I powered it thru my contactor so it will shut down if I hit the E-Stop. problem is finding the E-Stop with my remaining good eye.
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  #324  
Old Mon 17 November 2014, 15:38
Tokamak
Just call me: John #121
 
Monrovia (ca)
United States of America
Got a plug gauge and measured the holes. Supposed to be smaller than that. Once I get it connected to the controller I can shorten the on time and they should get smaller.

On the circles the ID of the hole is .526, the OD of the plug is .514, the kerf is
.012/2 = .006

My goal is to make the Dragon Fly (found on CNCZone).
Attached Images
File Type: jpg MM Laser Holes w dimensions.jpg (16.8 KB, 367 views)
File Type: jpg Dragon Fly.jpg (45.4 KB, 365 views)
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  #325  
Old Mon 17 November 2014, 17:41
ger21
Just call me: Ger
 
Detroit, MI
United States of America
I think that all the lasers I've seen have had the tube mounted horizontally, with the beam redirected with mirrors. Are you seeing any issues with the tube swaying back and forth with direction changes?
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  #326  
Old Mon 17 November 2014, 18:44
Tokamak
Just call me: John #121
 
Monrovia (ca)
United States of America
The advantage of the horizontal mount is that the moving head is really lite and can move like an ink jet printer burning graphics onto things. The X and Y rails need to be even an straight to use mirrors.
With the tube vertical I decreased the acceleration and deceleration to reduce the Gs on the tube. I have not found a definitive number for the max Gs the tube can take. My mount is solid to the Z plate. The risk of stopping or going too fast is breaking the internal structure in the tube. Mach3 adjusts the power with speed when burning graphics.
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  #327  
Old Mon 17 November 2014, 20:52
parrulho
Just call me: Paulo #108
 
willemstad
Netherlands Antilles
Very interesting!
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  #328  
Old Mon 17 November 2014, 20:59
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Cool Stuff - Have I mentioned lately how much I love this platform !!! . MechMater's are a great bunch for sure !!!!
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  #329  
Old Tue 18 November 2014, 05:06
racedirector
Just call me: Bruce #122
 
New South Wales
Australia
Now you've done it Fox, a DIY laser is going to bug me for weeks!
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  #330  
Old Tue 18 November 2014, 05:46
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
BECAUSE YOU CAN!!!
Loving it!!!
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