Machining Aluminum #122 - Sydney, Australia

[ger21]

I thought you were getting a CS-Labs board?

I've never used a smoothstepper, but I think you just assign the pins and port numbers on the Input Pins page.
The Smoothstepper has 3 ports, so you just enter the port number along with the pin number for the inputs you want to use.

[racedirector]

Ah, yea.... when CS Labs came back with the M wouldn't work and I would need a P board I decided to go with the ESS in the interim... I don't have a spare 1K for the CS Labs stuff at the moment

I'll try that when I get the 126, I only have a single BOB at the moment.

Cheers

[pblackburn]

Looking at Warp9 setup and plugin you can set the port bi directional direction (in or out) functionality of pins 2-9. From my take that is where the extra inputs are achieved. Caution would be needed to comply with the 126 needs for pins 2-9 on port 1 and 2. 3 should be open to your needs.

[racedirector]

Thanks Pete.

I got my 126 today, boy is it a big board! Lucky I left extra room for an motion control board 'cause the 126 takes up the whole lot. The ESS will mount on top of the 126 as a "daughter" board. I will start connecting things up and then I can test all this extra input stuff.

[racedirector]

Control box question....I am up to the point of cutting holes in my door and the one hole that is tricky is the disconnect switch. How do you guys work out exactly where the door matches the placement of the disconnect? I am thinking something like bluetac inside and closing the door on the shaft. Any other surefire ways of getting it in the right place?

[Tokamak]

Make sure the set screws on the switch are snug since the shaft does sag a little when loose in the switch. I drilled my first hole the size of the shaft then checked for alignment before enlarging to the full size.

[pblackburn]

Most disconnects come with handle layout to tape on once you have the hole made in the approximate location for the actuating shaft. Like John said. Start with the small hole then tape on the layout paper, mark and drill your screw hole.

[racedirector]

Thanks guys, will drill the shaft size hole first once I work out where it impacts the door. Pete, my disconnect would be one of the ones with no template for the switch, gonna have to wing that one once I get there....

[pblackburn]

How is the progress going?

[racedirector]

Not alot happening at the moment Pete. Got the racks stuck on, started to run a little bit of wiring and *still* working on my control box.

Time has been taken up fixing my car, some moron decided to back up in a truck at the traffic lights and mashed the front of my car. Sat on the horn but he didn't hear it because he had headphones on!!!!

Hoping to make *some* progress in the coming week.....

[lonestaral]

Get your machine finished Bruce.
You can machine a new front end for your car on it.

[pblackburn]

Life does tend to get in the way. I would like to see the Mechmate inspired front end of the car though.

[servant74]

I've been tempted to put a 12" I-beam on as bumpers front and rear... In the worst case, sharpening them on the edges just a bit... But then I go sleep, and feel better later. ;-)

[racedirector]

I *think* the mechanical side of the build is done. Will probably find something I have missed The only thing I can think of aside from wiring is gluing the second layer of spoilboard down. Any pointers on what glue to use for that, I have bottles of Titebond II and III, my only concern is it drying before I get the whole sheet done and the upper layer plonked on top.

Anyway, up to wiring now, looks like I need some slightly bigger machine control boxes due to the number of wires rushing around the machine. Will see what my local electrical guy has. The main control box mount on the side of the machine has been made, just needs paint to seal it. I went with a SurfCNC style mount that swings up for easy access, thank Ross for the idea

Getting ever closer to making dust.....

Cheers

[pblackburn]

Glad to hear the machine is coming along. I have no suggestions on the spoilboard gluing. I only use a single sheet. I was to lazy to put the second on. I know someone will chime in.

[IMMark]

I used Titebond II, depends on room temp and humidity...but yeah it can set up quick. Have some help on hand.
Good luck
Mark

[KenC]

Any wood glue would do.
If you can find extra helping hands, put weight on the board while the glue set, sand bag, rocks, a stack of mdf, lifting weights, filled water buckets etc etc etc. which ever you find handy.

[racedirector]

Thanks guys, will get to that after I do more wiring. Ken, I have plenty of helpers even if they are my annoying children J/K!

[danilom]

I used lots of screws to screw it down and get them out when the glue sets no point in keeping it nice since I screw all my material to the spoilboard so it looks like swiss cheese in no time

[lonestaral]

Keep up the good work mate.
I used a latex glue, all my clamps
and as much heavy stuff as I could fit on the table.

[racedirector]

Originally Posted by danilom

I used lots of screws to screw it down.....

Danilo, how do you stop the MDF from creating little craters? With the MDF down here, when you screw into it, it creates little craters with proud edges which are a pain in the butt to remove.

I plan to make my own T track like someone on here did (can't remember who?!?!?!). The next layer of 16mm MDF will have 22x8mm dados cut into it and on top of that will be glued a 12mm sheet of MDF that will have a smaller slot cut directly above the dado's giving me a pseudo t-track. When the top gets hacked up I will just plane it off and stick on another 12mm sheet. Doing this to a) save money on real t-track and b) to get around screwing things onto the spoil board, mainly for the reasons above.

Everyone else who replied I have a ton of heavy steel left over from my construction mistakes, that should be enough to weigh down the next sheet of MDF.

[wiifm]

Originally Posted by racedirector

I plan to make my own T track like someone on here did (can't remember who?!?!?!).

I saw it mentioned in post #93 of Ross' (SurfCNC) build.

[pblackburn]

To the little craters question. As far as breakthrough, pilot drill. For the top of the board either use a washer with a multi-purpose screw, a washer type head screw or pan head.

[KenC]

Dadoo??? Why would you want to waste the opportunity to use your MM operation???

In reality some pimples on the spoil board won't bother your wood working precisions...

We don't call it a spoil-board for no reason.

BTW, I tried MDF T-slots. they are the biggest contributor of error... They can never give a flat working surface 1/2 hour after resurfacing... & resurfacing them is PITA.

[danilom]

Yes I always pilot drill any material, MDF or hardwood, that way it won't push the material up. And use a large washer if you have it.

[racedirector]

Ken has me worried now, may reconsider the self made t-track idea. I'll stick a sheet of 16mm on top of the base sheet and work out what I am going to from there. I do like clamping rather than screwing stuff to the spoil board, just need to work out what I will use in place of the homemade variety.....

[Tokamak]

I like the idea of using T nuts scattered in a pattern around the board. Maybe a 12"x12" pattern. I can then use the T nuts and bolts to clamp anything else to the spoil board like a small t-track. Still have to glue down the spoil board.

[lonestaral]

I used M8 T nuts spaced at 100mm in X and 75mm in Y.

It works well.
Plenty of room between the holes if you need to screw or nail.

[pblackburn]

I used tee nuts in a 203mm x 152mm pattern

[racedirector]

Of course, tee nuts! Thanks guys, the first thing the machine will do will be to make lots of tee nut holes