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  #421  
Old Fri 18 July 2014, 23:27
Chirpenchuck
Just call me: Chirpenchuck
 
Utah
United States of America
That was cut @50ipm 10ipm on plunge spiral lead in and .005" depth per pass.
Ok the close up is not as good as a laser cut but sheesh its pretty good.
The harmonics would have been better if the plate was not above the table like that.
Machines building machines wOOt!
Thanks for taking a look.
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  #422  
Old Sat 19 July 2014, 05:12
jhiggins7
Just call me: John #26
 
Hebron, Ohio
United States of America
Very nice work. Thanks for sharing. Earlier you described the bit you used, but can you tell us the manufacturer and model of the bit?

You had me sitting on the edge of my seat waiting for these pictures WOW!

It's good to see that the MechMate COULD cut steel if need be.
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  #423  
Old Sat 19 July 2014, 05:22
gixi
Just call me: Marius (AVO) #32
 
Bucharest
Romania
Send a message via Yahoo to gixi
Yes you can do that with MM. I did that with a 2mm steel. After I loose a lot of time asking a friend to cut four pieces of 2 mm steel with his plasma cutter I finished the job with MM. Yes it can be done .
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  #424  
Old Sat 19 July 2014, 05:22
danilom
Just call me: Danilo #64
 
Novi Sad
Serbia
Looking at a price to lasercut or waterjet (or plasma) a small steel part and comparing that to an carbide endmill and bearings in a spindle, preparation, oil and mess on a table, I would hesitate to recommend that a mechmate is ok to cut steel.
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  #425  
Old Sat 19 July 2014, 11:12
Chirpenchuck
Just call me: Chirpenchuck
 
Utah
United States of America
Well the price for metal cutting (laser/water/plasma) for what I want done is well over 1000.00$ The cut was smoother than your thinking danilom, .005" per pass is really just going through the motions. Its not an aggressive cut at all. If my bearings wear out after this task Ill let you know. Not likely though. Preparation/oil and a mess? Come on.
Having the ability to redesign/recut and make changes to metal parts in house is well worth anything negatives that "may" come about.
Wood can only do so much, I really like the "structure" you can get from aluminum and steel. Like I said machines to build machines and I couldnt be happier.

Jhiggens7: I linked some metal cutting bits on the amana site in previous posts. The price seams ok there. 60.00$ give or take. This is a site I got from this site, I have not purchased from them and I think I remember people saying they are spendy. The black tipped bits on the home page image look like what I have, (those have more flutes mine has 3) I think they are altin coated? Not sure on that. Sorry I cant get more specific on them the bit was given to me from a machinist who was discarding it. There is not a manufacture name on it.
Im running out of time before Im off to work, when I get back I can take pics of the bit if needed. (I said I would do that previously didnt I *oops*)
I appreciate the comments (good and bad ) and will share anything I know about it, I know its not much though.
Thanks for playing along at home.
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  #426  
Old Sat 19 July 2014, 14:14
danilom
Just call me: Danilo #64
 
Novi Sad
Serbia
- for a 1000$ you'll have to cut some serious parts,
an example - from Mikes cvstore 8 x 4 belt reduction kits (8x132$) or 2 times all mechmate parts (2x520$) which include material (steel) and bending in cost. Could all that be cut with just one endmill? I am using US prices to compare, some prices I pay would cut that in half.

- 40 passes (0.127mm pass) to cut 5mm, at 50ipm (1270mm/min) thats 30 min for one meter linear cut.

- Mess... If you use your mechmate for daily woodworking, one metal chip embedded in mdf spoilboard will scratch chipboard surface, painted mdf, acrylic etc. Try to give that to a customer.
Squirting oil stays on mdf and leaves staines, you can cover the machine in nylon to prevent that maybe.

Router or spindle bearings are a long story I'll skip that.

Using mechmate when you just need some part made and using it daily for what it is (cnc router) differs.

After using MechMate for 4 years I just wanted to present risks trough facts to anyone reading this and thinking what a great idea and "lets try it" moment. No further comments.
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  #427  
Old Sun 20 July 2014, 09:54
Chirpenchuck
Just call me: Chirpenchuck
 
Utah
United States of America
Stains and scratches?. Do DIY 220v industrial machine makers need warnings about stains scratches? Clean up or resurface. Its just clear to me that danilom is really reaching for anything to discredit the cutting of metal. Why so much effort to cast doubt about metal?
Are metal customers not worth it?

Last edited by Admin; Tue 22 July 2014 at 04:27.. Reason: Admin updates to remove unwanted comments
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  #428  
Old Sun 20 July 2014, 13:30
Fox
Just call me: Fox
 
Amsterdam
Netherlands
I think Danilom is just giving his opinions why not to do it - if you were him -, he's not saying it can't be done.
Chopper, you, and others in the past have already been proving otherwise.

I have done/made countless of weird thing with tools that we're not really intended to do so, which did not mean it did not work... Sometimes live calls for some ingenuity and improvisation. Did it go faster/better/quicker then the 'right' tool ? Most often not, but it got the job done, and saved me money and time on outsourcing, and I made my deadlines.

Are there better tools then an MM for cutting steel ? Yes, I am a 100% sure about that.
Do you need to go and buy those, or outsource the job if you are aware of the 'downsides' and have the odd job and an MM at hand > No, (judging your and other results - I have not done it myself )

Neither one of you should try to convince the other, as your both 'right'.
He's been contributing to the MM community and so are you.
You both should drink a beer to that ( and Gerald ) !

Last edited by Fox; Sun 20 July 2014 at 13:33..
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  #429  
Old Mon 21 July 2014, 01:09
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Danilo is a giving person. I totally share Danilo's opinion on.

I totally understand how one's ego get bloated out of proportion after building a working MM from scratch. Been there..

Nobody said MM can't cut metal. It can be done if you know what you are doing

I for one won't push that far based on the reasons Danilo stated & some... BUT don't take our words for it, have a go and feel the pain for yourself.
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  #430  
Old Mon 21 July 2014, 06:07
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
I work with repairing industrial machinery. This machine should be used within its intended design. Will it cut metal....yes. Will it cause premature wear on the machine...yes. I am one that does not recommend cutting metal with this machine. However, if you do cut metal with a router or spindle, do make sure you have polycarbonate guarding in place. I work with a guy that had a bit shatter and a tiny sliver went into his neck. That bit was only spinning at 800 rpm on a conventional mill. At even the low end of 6000 rpm on a spindle the exiting velocity is much, much higher. I would say that the guarding is a requirement and not an option.
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  #431  
Old Mon 21 July 2014, 12:09
Chirpenchuck
Just call me: Chirpenchuck
 
Utah
United States of America
The wear on my machine has impressed me (Gerald was still finishing the spider plate design when I started, Not saying that based on ego but as it relates to wear) and it has far exceeded what I thought it would. I am in the process of updating its components. So its going to happen. Bits break in wood too so safety is sound advice.
Its all in the aggressiveness of the cut IMHO.


Edit: I just notice Mods removed the rant. Thanks.

Last edited by Admin; Tue 22 July 2014 at 04:30.. Reason: Admin cleanup
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  #432  
Old Mon 21 July 2014, 12:55
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Hey Chuck,
No worries, everyone has an off day. Thats what the forum is for, discussion. I tend to like the diversity here and being able to see what others are trying on their machine. Maybe not everyone will operate their Mechmate the same, and thats ok too.
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  #433  
Old Mon 21 July 2014, 23:54
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Chirpenchuck, Look at the bright side, you alarmed the uninitiated from unnecessary machine injuries

Last edited by KenC; Mon 21 July 2014 at 23:56..
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  #434  
Old Tue 22 July 2014, 04:42
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
I have moded a few posts here to keep us focused on our MechMate discussion. If more is needed, let me know.

I think the value of the MechMate design and community is that everyone can learn the value and limits of these machines from each other. Everyone thinks they have pushed this design to the edge, and then someone mods the platform or just takes their own ability to bring the platform to another level.

Safety is your responsibility. No matter what your doing. If you think the platform can do it safely, then work it out and let us know.

I like seeing people prove this platform is ridged enough to cut steel. We all know that we probably would not take the platform into full scale machining production since it is so slow in that space. But as we have seen, with the right bit and feed/speed, it can be done.

So keep pushing. I am still looking for that 5 axis waterjet MechMate to go into service !!!
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  #435  
Old Tue 22 July 2014, 23:32
Chirpenchuck
Just call me: Chirpenchuck
 
Utah
United States of America
I'm a wanabee machinist, trapped in a Mechmate body, with a "small machinist complex".
and.. I'm ok with it.
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  #436  
Old Mon 28 July 2014, 11:40
Chirpenchuck
Just call me: Chirpenchuck
 
Utah
United States of America
Well that killed at work. Maybe a little to serious around here lately?
See ya around.
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  #437  
Old Mon 28 July 2014, 16:36
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Not too serious, I just couldn't come up with a tasteful response. LOL

Last edited by Tom Ayres; Mon 28 July 2014 at 16:36.. Reason: spelling
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  #438  
Old Thu 16 October 2014, 04:47
Duds
Just call me: Dale
 
Canberra
Australia
I'm looking at t5 10 tooth to t5 40 tooth reduction belt drive and am getting confused about belt length and tensioning.

A: How do I calculate belt length, or do most guys cut and splice their own belts. If so how do you vulcanise the belt at home?

B: How does the 'MetalHead' style welded reduction drive frames tension, I can't seem to make it out? Do you just pull the motor tight in slotted holes and tighten the mounting bolts? Doesn't this slip?
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  #439  
Old Thu 16 October 2014, 05:03
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
@Dale,
10 tooth? wow, u using NEMA17 motors?
u need some simple trigonometry maths or draw it in CAD to get the length. or search for manufacturer's tablets.
"A:" I just buy belts I need... never have to bother with belts joining.
"B:" is exactly how it is done. & it works.
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  #440  
Old Thu 16 October 2014, 05:31
Duds
Just call me: Dale
 
Canberra
Australia
@Ken I haven't thought about the shaft diameter have I? What am I missing? And thanks for the quick answers.

More Q:

Why aren't builders using plastic pulleys, they are cheaper?

Found this helpful page to assist in calculating belt length linked into SurfCNC's thread.

http://www.sdp-si.com/Cd/default.htm
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  #441  
Old Thu 16 October 2014, 05:46
racedirector
Just call me: Bruce #122
 
New South Wales
Australia
Dale

I bought 15T T5 16mm pulleys with 12.7mm bores along with 45T T5 16mm pulleys for my 3:1 boxes. The 45T's are only 8mm bore so I will need to make mine bigger. I might still get some 44T as I can get those in 12.7 as well, that would reduce my ratio to 2.933333. All these are from AusXMods here in Aus, for the 4x 15T, 4x 45T and 4 suitable belts it all came to $102 including shipping.

I doubt you will get the 10T bored to 12.7mm to suit your motors, you'll need to increase the tooth count.
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  #442  
Old Thu 16 October 2014, 05:52
Duds
Just call me: Dale
 
Canberra
Australia
@Bruce Thanks for the tip!
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  #443  
Old Thu 16 October 2014, 07:21
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Why not go the extreme with GT2 timing belt & pulley. you might be able to get 8:1 ratio if you don't mind fat & clumsy look.
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  #444  
Old Sun 22 January 2017, 14:54
jeep534
Just call me: jeep534
 
prichard, wv
United States of America
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg View Post
Michael

These are a couple of pics just to give you more ideas.

I don't have any drawings. And this is obviously not a mechmate.

Same principals apply though. Keep the relationship between the pivot and the pinion shaft no more than 45 degrees from horizontal. I would make it less if I was starting again.

I see the weak point of other designs to be the pivot mechanism. Any slop here goes straight to backlash.

Whenever I drill a hole and put a bolt or shaft through it, it usually ends up with about 3 to 5 thou slop. Then the rapid back and forth of the axis will increase this with wear.

That's why I put bearings on the pivot and made them a firm fit in their housing and on the shaft.

Also be careful in your belt selection. Mine are T5 and the "cog" on the belt is smaller than the "groove" on the pulley.

So far this has not showed up in accuracy but this is not a good place to start.



Greg
I have just finished reading all of this thread and I am veruy interested in the machine pictured in these photos
Thank You
archie
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