I'm working on a new MM quietly in the corner #5 - Orlando. FL

[Gerald D]

Sean, I am wondering whether the long cutting edge on that bit was dictated by:
a. The amount of overburden above the detail, or
b. Depth of actual finish detail (eg, going inside the statue's mouth), or
c. both

It looks as if you are using the tool for a. which is a waste of an expensive tool if you break it while it hogs/roughs out overburden. Was just wondering what made you use such a fancy cutter - of course I am jealous that I havn't got one myself.

Regarding the dust in the router; have you got enough compressed air to keep a small blast directed at the top of the router? Maybe even seal off the router's air intakes and blow compressed air directly into the top of the router. (Some spindles work like this).

[sailfl]

Gerald,

With regards to the air on the router, are you concerned that the fine dust from the foam will get into the router causing mechanical problems?

[Gerald D]

This is the reason for my comment on an air feed to the router:

Originally Posted by smreish

. . . . I have to build a snorkle for the air inlet on the router. It keeps getting clogged with debris and I don't want an overtemp situation on the cutting tool. . .

[hennie]

nice one Sean !

[smreish]

Gerald,
The long cutter is a necessity. It really is needed for the depth of detail. On some of the statues, the undercut detail depth is 6-8 inches. Thus - just clears on some of the cutting areas. The other part is the detail might not be that deep, but that darn 6" square mechanical area of router/slide attached to the bit likes to collide with the high areas if I'm not careful.

I am just learning RhinoCam enough to trust the collision detection part of the simulation software to determine the perfect min. cutter length necessary. Hopefully, I will get far more efficient soon to trust and know my tools.

This particular cutter is about the only choice I have found here in the states. You can either buy a 5" OAL cutter, with 3.5" usable, or the 10" OAL bit with 8" usable. That's about it. The large cutter is able to be resharpened locally for about 40 dollars. SO, cost is palatable. If anyone is interested, it can be found at 3dcutting.com under frogtools menu. The manufacturer/supplier of this tooling is Streamline Automation in Canada.

Note:
The photo's I posted are really not indicative of the proper use of that long bit. But, it was a full scale test of what I could do. The upside is, the bit really was able to clear a 8" deep path on each past. One darn impressive tool bit. I was stunned at how effective of a bit it really was.

The air blast over the inlet is a good idea, but I found that the really fine foam get's into the router and catch's fire! Yep, smelly smokey stuff - carbon brushes and EPS foam do not like each other. SO, I will build a small snorkel and a little 2 stage air filter to keep the debris out. The air blast will be added and is easy to deploy.

[Gerald D]

I have heard of guys using long drills for side cutting of foam. Here is a S.African manufacturer of such drills. They do 1/2" drills with 6, 8, 10 or 12" flute lengths. The grinding chaps apparently can put a passable ball-nose onto them.

[Leko]

Oh man Sean, I think you owe Gerald another chunk of change!!!

$300 end mill vs. $20, 1/2" drill bit and a couple of minutes on the grinding wheel.

It's only cutting foam, AND with the drill bit you get a spiral cut as well! The man is a genius I say!

[Gerald D]

I have never tried cutting foam myself, so I don't know if it works that well.

[sprayhead]

To all guys cuting foam:

Have a look at www.olivercorp.com

SSG abrasive coating does a great job.
MCM abrasive coating is also good and lasts longer.

Francis

[sprayhead]

Sean,

How's the rack/pinion and the V-wheels behaving with all that EPS dust?

Can you leave the machine cutting all day without having to blow/clean the wheels/tracks and rack?

BTW, OliverCorp does custom tools... It might be a good way to go. I think that their tools work much better than conventional end mills, for cutting foam.

Thanks,
Francis

[Kobus_Joubert]

Speak to Marius. I think he uses drill bits when cutting foam

[smreish]

Francis,
I haven't noticed any real performance challenges. Yes, it gets dirty and the static electricity charge makes it all stick well to the machine. But, if I was to compare, it's a lot less invasive than MDF.

I am going to try the drill bit thing this week. The foam cutting bit I currently have has a very nice machined edge on the spirals of the bit for side cutting. We will try it and report back to the forum.

...it's going to be a busy week I can tell.

Sean

[sprayhead]

Thanks Sean.

So, no real problems. That's good news. I thought that EPS foam could build up on the tracks/wheels taking friction skyhigh and also making things go bad with the rack/pinion.

Please let us know how you go, if you come up with any problems and solutions for the foam dust.

In regards to the router and foam...

I know surfboard shaping machines that work all day long cutting foam and believe me its sackloads of the stuff, everyday. Both EPS and PU.
Their angle grinders and routers hold up very well without any kind of "air filter".
They usually use Porter Cable routers and Makita, Bosch and Hitachi angle grinders.

F.

[smreish]

All the MM readers.
I want to be very clear that I do maintain the MM and don't assume that it will run just "fine and dandy" without regard to cleaning the rails and rack and pinions. After or sometimes during the cutting process I will blow the rails and racks to clean them up. I don't expect a machine to run perfect without daily cleaning.

I have found that the same "slick surface" non silicone spray I use for the table saw tops does a fantastic job of keeping everything slick and aids in the shedding of sticky dust.

Sean

[jhiggins7]

Sean,

You are breaking new ground. We greatly appreciate you sharing your experience with us. It's very helpful to those of us dreaming of longer Z axis to see your real world experience.

Would you care to share a brand name for the non-silicone "slick surface" spray? I have only waxed my table saws, etc. I'd like to try some of the spray. By the way, can you use it on the spoil board, or is it restricted to metal surfaces?

[sailfl]

John,

I recently bought some White Lightning Bike chain lubicant - it is self cleaning and availble almost every where. I notice less things sticking since I started using it.

I don't think you want to put a lubicant on the spoil board surface. Unlike a table saw surface that you want to be smooth so the boards you are pushing move across the table easily, on the spoil board you the want the surface to help hold the boards.

Hope that helps.

[domino11]

John,
There are many around. Most home centers sell it as a sealer / anti-friction agent for table saw tops. Topcoate, Boeshield are ones some guys are using, probably many other names as well. Also keeps the table from rusting as well.

[smreish]

...and you would be amazed at how "topcoate" keeps your router bits pitch and gum free!

Topcoat is the brand I use. It's about 12$ USD for a 15oz can. Which has lasted me 2 years so far.

[domino11]

Sean,
Maybe you could post some pics of the new balancer on your build thread to update it?

[smreish]

Ask and you shall see.
Here ya go.
Sean
Attachment 4795

Attachment 4796

[sailfl]

Sean,

Nice, very interesting!

[Gerald D]

The discussion on dust extractor feet for cutting foam has been moved to:

Mechmate mods for cutting surfboards

[Robert M]

Hi Sean,
Since you’ve open the subject on your indexer here, could you give us some update & more pics on your set up & work done lately. Kinda of an update & report if it was/is worth it for you and what would you do differently, if any !!
Later, Robert

[smreish]

Robert,

I will be honest, it's hard to quantify your question with a clear answer. I will read between the lines.

Speed - the same and smooth with the balancer
Motor - performance the same with 7.2 OM steppers
quality of cut - same at - 12" Z, -33" Z a little harmonic wiggle vibration which equals about a 1/32 wider cut than the tool bit. THUS, a 15MM bit will cut 16MM at that distance.
Picture - can't show you anything yet that is allowed by contract.

Do differently - Not have a deadline looming over my head!
- use a true Alum Association section or something else that had flat surfaces everywhere. I used a 6" Alum W shape I had in the shop and had challenges drilling and mating to the tapered flange.
- Get a taller room to put it in! The small building I moved the machine to for noise reasons earlier in the year is "JUST" tall enough. But, the spoilboard area of the machine is now 5.5' off the floor. The indexer is at +36" off the floor. Swing of the indexer is 60" max!
- Build a completely separate table for the indexer use and just share the gantry between tables. This would allow for me to not have a convertible top for when I have to run and cut something flat on the machine. Or maybe, I just should build another machine !

[Robert M]

- What !!!!…. Can’t even give more photos of your set up w/indexer ???
What kind of contract is this….-
- I was more referring at the indexer set up when ask about updates & report if it is still worth it for ya !! Although, appreciate reading your update on your complete set up

Not have a deadline looming over my head!....Know what you mean.... even if it looks like I’m slow to start my build !!
KEY word here (as I was once told) MORE PHOTOS MAN !!
Amicalement, Robert

[smreish]

Oh, I can show everyone the mechanicals.
I will try in the next week or two - I am out on holiday and won't be back for about 10 days.
....back to my beach, beverage and watching the kids play in the sand!

[domino11]

Have a good Holiday Sean!

[Doug_Ford]

Where does a guy who lives in the #1 vacation destination in the US go for a holiday?

[domino11]

His backyard?

[servant74]

Big Bend National Park ... Depending on what you like.