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  #421  
Old Tue 10 May 2011, 07:46
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
EAR PLUGS.....

Without them I would not only be deaf by now, I'll be a pretty agitated all day long too...

I don't think it is possible for me to box em up without cooking them...

Noise reduction will be another never ending work in progress. I bought the matching silencer but they are useless. I also has a Mini Minor exhaust silencer in my free junk pile. will get there eventually. For now, I will climb the steep curve of vacuum hold down with me ear plugs on...

Irfan, That pneumatic pipe is connected to my vacuum gauge at the Y=0 end of the table. The are perfect for this purpose, won't collapse even when I step on it accidental.
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  #422  
Old Tue 10 May 2011, 07:48
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Irfan, I reckon the blue tube is the high-tech "pressure and temperature ajusting bleed air inlet"
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  #423  
Old Tue 10 May 2011, 07:50
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Ken, do those motors have a small fan on the back end of the motor shaft? If so, you can box them and let that small fan draw cooling air into the box.
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  #424  
Old Tue 10 May 2011, 08:22
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Talking

My primary goal is to have a functional vacuum system soonest... with minimum outlay...

The motor cooling fan does pull some serious air around, I reckon if we can figure out a good flow path, coolling effect may just improove.

There was a Ver. 1.0 vacuum reservoir box out of 18mm thk MDF with all the bells & whistles. The instant I block off the inlet (with the motors running) All the wall panels deflected by more the 20mm inwards...

The current set up is the 2nd attempt & it works without a fuss... The "table board" is what left from the Ver 1.0...
The moral of the story... K.I.S.S.

Other stuff I'll add on eventually
1) Exhaust silencers
2) a check valves for each of the motor inlet so that I can run a motor at a time.
3) a 3rd motor
4) a microprocessor to a)turn on & off the 3 motors with respect to the pressure. b) over heat shut down c) cycle between the 3 motors in hope of extending their useful life...

About the noise, my last resort is to stuff the pair of motors in the toilet & brick it up along with the dust collector fan... I do have 2 toilet in the shop...
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  #425  
Old Tue 10 May 2011, 08:32
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Mix the dust with some water and flush it down the toilet.....
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  #426  
Old Tue 10 May 2011, 09:37
normand blais
Just call me: Normand
 
montreal
Canada
Gerald D.
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  #427  
Old Tue 10 May 2011, 13:33
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Ken,

I would be interested in seeing you microprocessor ideas. I am looking at adding vacuum table.
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  #428  
Old Tue 10 May 2011, 13:44
Travish
Just call me: Travis #75
 
Wa
United States of America
Ken,

As far as the approach to the Microprocessor to turn on & off the 3 motors in pressure flux, how would you approch this? Is there a board out there one could use for this or do you have to design one? I'm very curious to see how this would work as well.
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  #429  
Old Tue 10 May 2011, 14:31
Regnar
Just call me: Russell #69
 
Mobile, Alabama
United States of America
Maybe I am missing it but why not use 3 (or how many vacuum motors) Adjustable Vacuum Switches. Set them up as a tear so all three come on and once the vacuum builds each will shut off as the vacuum builds.

Here is a link to what I am talking about. http://www.omega.com/pptst/PSW21_PSW22.html



Either way you have me really interested in your project and looking forward to your progress.
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  #430  
Old Tue 10 May 2011, 16:14
danilom
Just call me: Danilo #64
 
Novi Sad
Serbia
for not so cheap solution you can find PLC with 6 analogue inputs and couple digital outs, 3 analog for temp sensors and 3 analog for pressure, digital outputs for control to shut down individual overheated or at enough pressure motors.

Other than that, you could use AVR Atmega series MCU, or Arduino as it seems popular board with these microcontrolers, They can have from 8 up to 16 or more analogue inputs and at least 16 digital outputs.

PLC is reliable and ready to use but at a price, especially that ones with analogue inputs are most expensive or require addons for expanding number of inputs or outputs. It should not be a problem to program any of them.
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  #431  
Old Tue 10 May 2011, 20:20
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
My tentative solution is
Arduino + FREESCALE SEMICONDUCTOR MPX2100DP Differential Pressure sensor + Temp Sensor (which I've yet to select) + 16x2 LCD display

I hope the DP sensor is a correct choice & this will be my 2nd Micro Processor project after nearly 2 decades...

I'm no electronic wiz kid & Arduino comes in a easy enough package where I can start programming (or copying scripts ) & get down to work. I find setting up MicroP from scratch a huge challenge.

There are many advantages using a MicroP, I can use it to control, read pressure & temp... basically, the limit is your imagination. AND no need to work out the physic equations to have them working...

Russel, The topology is what I have in mind, start with all 3 motors, then switch off one at a time when the vacuum is achieved

In my wildest dream, I wish to use a car MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor to measure the flow as well but I just couldn't find the data sheet for any MAF sensor. Any commercially available Air flow sensors are expensive... I also looked at Pitot tube & it requires another DP & temperature sensor, temp compensation & pressure compensation... etc... can be veryy messy stuff at the end... Until the MAF data sheet for an economy locally available MAF is available, this option will be buried in my dungeon of ideas... Its not a essential option at this moment.

Nils, Don't think! Just do it. Its not difficult to get a functional vacuum table once you put your hands to work. I wasted too much time weighing too many option & all the possible "what-if???" When you have them running like mine, many things will turn crystal clear. Noise, heat, etc etc... I trust your ability to have them resolve in no time.

Last edited by KenC; Tue 10 May 2011 at 20:31..
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  #432  
Old Wed 11 May 2011, 06:49
danilom
Just call me: Danilo #64
 
Novi Sad
Serbia
You can try LM35 sensor, its cheap and easy to use, gives voltage output in respect to temperature.

http://www.national.com/mpf/LM/LM35.html#Overview

how to use it
http://www.ladyada.net/learn/sensors/tmp36.html
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  #433  
Old Thu 12 May 2011, 22:32
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
I've finally done it!!!!
I fried the Chinese spindle windings!!! Sadly, no big bang & no smoke... just a tripped VFD...
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  #434  
Old Thu 12 May 2011, 23:25
Kobus_Joubert
Just call me: Kobus #6
 
Riversdale Western Cape
South Africa
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What happened.. no water ?... or it this the excuse your wife hears so that you can buy a new 3kW spindle ?
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  #435  
Old Thu 12 May 2011, 23:43
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
I reckon the cause is running it too near its 10A margin (8A) for too long & it spiked over 11A one last time & burst the coil winding insulation...
This proof one thing, the advertised VFD rating is more honest then the spindle's...
Well.... this sure is the best excuse to up size to 3kW Sorry wify, there goes your birthday present budget...
Good thing I have a spare spindle sitting in the box...
Will keep my current operation load with the coming 3kW spindle & hopefully I'll get reliable service from it for a few thousand running hours.
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  #436  
Old Sun 19 June 2011, 02:22
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
More Tinkering

More "upgrading" were completed
What's done this time round
3kW Spindle,
Solid cast aluminium Spindle holder
Ball ScSAM_0072.JPGrew Z-axis
SAM_0073.JPG
SAM_0074.JPG
SAM_0075.JPG
SAM_0060.JPG
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  #437  
Old Sun 19 June 2011, 05:33
IN-WondeR
Just call me: Kim
 
Randers
Denmark
Where did you get that spindle holder from?
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  #438  
Old Sun 19 June 2011, 20:48
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Cut a Styrofoam mould & evaporated cast by a local foundry. That is about the biggest size they would handle. then horizontal mill the mating surface, bore the hole, dirll & tap.
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  #439  
Old Sat 25 June 2011, 08:00
skillalot
Just call me: Sascha
 
Gelderland
Netherlands
http://www.stappenmotor.nl/Steppermo...%20housing.htm

The 80mm fits perfect on my 1.5kw chinese spindle.
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  #440  
Old Mon 27 June 2011, 20:03
shaneblacklord
Just call me: shane
 
Williams Lake
Canada
Ken
Thank you for the interesting read, brought up a few things I had not thought of before maybe Im just too tired to think But I could not find any referance to the Bob I am using... I wil try reading it again tomorrow
thanks to you and all your friends who shared their knowledge to make your build a reality
Shane
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  #441  
Old Tue 28 June 2011, 15:40
shaneblacklord
Just call me: shane
 
Williams Lake
Canada
Thanks KenC

Ken i Really appreciate your help, and i wanted you to know it.
Thanks
Shane
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  #442  
Old Tue 28 June 2011, 22:20
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Don't mention it, I'm just returning what I benefited from this forum
Keep reading, I too was electrically & electronic challenged, but there are enough information in this forum for me to implement my own concoction of electrical & electronics in my build. I believe if I can do it, everyone could.
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  #443  
Old Fri 01 July 2011, 00:03
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Cut some Nylon involute spur gear for a customer.

The gear profile is 33mm thick the Nylon block is 42mm thick... Its a mental torture when the 5/16" x 1-1/4“ flute length router bit giving out weird scream like sound...
The cuts were super conservative... 1mm depth of cut, 1200mm/min feed 3000rpm. G64 p0.05

DSC00363.JPG

DSC00362.JPG
Opinion Skinning to ensure the gear doesn't move.

DSC00364.JPG

DSC00366.JPG
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  #444  
Old Mon 12 December 2011, 20:20
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
A customer brought timber into my shop & request for some carving.
Faced the bottom & carved the requested letters.
What wood is this scaled.jpg
Can anyone make out what wood is this?
It cuts beautifully, has a waxy feel after a light cut & it give out cinnamon like aroma when the wood dust are lit.

Last edited by KenC; Mon 12 December 2011 at 20:23..
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  #445  
Old Tue 13 December 2011, 00:01
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Did some search on the internet, this wood might be Cinnamonum camphora (commonly known as Camphor tree, Camphorwood or camphor laurel or xiang zhang mu香樟木 or kusu no ki 楠の木。) but still not certain with it.

Last edited by KenC; Tue 13 December 2011 at 00:10.. Reason: added link
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  #446  
Old Tue 13 December 2011, 04:05
AuS MaDDoG
Just call me: Tony #71
 
Brisbane
Australia
Ken,

It looks more like a Rosewood type timber than Camphor but not sure about the waxy feel or the smell????

Tony.
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  #447  
Old Tue 13 December 2011, 09:26
qroger
Just call me: Roger
 
Matthews (North Carolina)
United States of America
Aromatic Wood

Since this is largely a woodworking site, I am sure I will be speaking to the choir. If it is an exotic board, be very careful of the dust. Allergic reactions to wood dust is common. It is of no great concern if the dust on your skin and causes a rash, but if it is in your lungs and causes a rash, you will be in grave danger. Many woodworkers develop a sensitivity to wood dust, and some have been driven from the business.

In regards to your question, here is a link to a book on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Identifying-Wo.../dp/0942391047
Bruce Hoadly gives a great explanation to what might be considered a dry subject.

Roger, (still stalled no table yet.)
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  #448  
Old Tue 13 December 2011, 12:28
Kobus_Joubert
Just call me: Kobus #6
 
Riversdale Western Cape
South Africa
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Some people say that Elm smell like cinnamon.
Another source :
Balsam of Peru: a tree resin from Central America, so named because it was historically shipped from Peru. Balsam of Tolu is from a closely related species of tree grown farther south; both resins are said to smell like vanilla and cinnamon.
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  #449  
Old Tue 13 December 2011, 13:12
Alan_c
Just call me: Alan (#11)
 
Cape Town (Western Cape)
South Africa
Send a message via Skype™ to Alan_c
The waxiness could also indicate a member of the Teak family - and remember Roger what is exotic to you is local for Ken, some of the best "exotics" grow in his backyard...
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  #450  
Old Tue 13 December 2011, 20:13
qroger
Just call me: Roger
 
Matthews (North Carolina)
United States of America
exotic

I meant exotic, in the sense of unusual. If the usual business involved mdf or plywood, any solid wood would be exotic. Here in the southeast USA sassafras, that is usually used for root beer can grow to be a substantial tree that has a sort of eucalyptus or camphor odor when cut. Sassafras albidum is apparently a member of the laurel family, many of whom have wood with odors.

That wood seems to have rings with early wood, and late wood, indicating one season with rapid growth, and one with not so rapid. The heart wood is dark and highly figured, the sap wood is light colored. It looks like the sap wood has a little area of rot, which would mean the oil that is making the wood smell wasn't completely successful in preserving it.
roger
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