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  #91  
Old Thu 30 July 2009, 05:34
Lex
Just call me: Johan #56
 
Empangeni KwaZuluNatal
South Africa
Ek is bietjie stadig vandag!
I hope you manage to keep Hennie away from the glass. Sales people hate droplets and finger prints on their displays.
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  #92  
Old Thu 30 July 2009, 06:38
hennie
Just call me: Hennie #23
 
Roodepoort JHB
South Africa
Hi, honey I am home just stoped in Plett,Thanks Gerald for taking me through Cape Town and doing the sight seeing route (he took me all over and even took me right up to where I needed to be thanks again )
I also had a visit to Cam Craft and saw what a couple of MM together look like ,nice!
and that shop where I am surely going to spend a lot of Rand`s.Gerald I hope you know someone in the traffic dept.
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  #93  
Old Thu 13 August 2009, 15:22
servant74
Just call me: Jack
 
Nashville (Tennessee)
United States of America
I just communicated with MidwestRapidTool. They are just finishing a Mach3 set of software for their changer. Once it is done, they said they would post on MechMate as a vendor.

They have focused on SB previously I think.
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  #94  
Old Fri 17 September 2010, 12:23
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Milwaukee 5625-20 Experience

I purchased my 5625-20 router in 6/2008 before I finished my build. I have been using the router regularly and have been satisfied with it. I purchased the 5625-20 over a Porter Cable because it is much quieter.

In May of 2010, the router would turn on and immediately power back down. Fortunately, the router has a 5 year warrenty. I took it in to the local service center and they replaced the Module Electronic Feedback unit (14-20-0050) and the Tachometer (23-38-0200).

This last week the router started acting the same way it did in May. So I thought I had the same problem. I had a couple jobs in the works, so I ordered a new router and took the old one into the local service center.

I have been using the new router and today the service center called me to tell me they could not find any thing wrong with the old one.

I tried every thing I could think of before taking it into the service center. I plugged it into another power source, I cleaned it out, I looked at the tach and it would still shut down after ramping up.

I have switched out the new router for the old. Keep the new one for when the old dies.

I did buy an extra tach and electronic feedback module just to have on hand.

Thought I would pass on my experience.
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  #95  
Old Sat 18 September 2010, 17:40
Mojo
Just call me: SolarImages
 
Bisbee, AZ
United States of America
Router Mounting bracket

I Just ordered a milwaukee 5625. I believe i saw and correct me if i am wrong a the MM with serial number 65 that had a slick looking mount for that router i was wondering where you found it?
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  #96  
Old Sat 18 September 2010, 20:59
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Mojo,
I don't know if Jimmy has this exact mount, but a really nice mount for the 5625 can be found at http://www.k2cnc.com/shop/products.asp?cat=31 for 65.00.

Sean

It's where I have purchased all my mounts in the past.
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  #97  
Old Sun 19 September 2010, 05:45
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Draw mine on cad, sub to a nearby water jet cutter and 35$ later mat. Incl ……Voilà a nice custom pair made !
Robert
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  #98  
Old Mon 20 June 2011, 04:10
Red_boards
Just call me: Red #91
 
Melbourne
Australia
Question about router mounting

I have two routers. One is a 1450 GMC (a local discount brand) and the other a 3hp Makita. Both of them are anout 205mm with the handles removed (the handle mountings account for about 2x10mm of this).
I've decided to experiment with the GMC shown below rather than take a hacksaw to the Makita:


I dissembled the thing and can't find a decent mounting place on the body. My question is what's opinions on removing the black base plate and mounting an L-bracket on the cast base. I can use 5 existing screw holes and 3 bolt-through mounts.

I'm aware that this will restrict how close I can get to the workpiece , but it seems the most solid mounting. Getting around the body of the router is an option, but the odd shape will make this difficult to achieve.
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  #99  
Old Mon 20 June 2011, 04:50
Kobus_Joubert
Just call me: Kobus #6
 
Dalview
South Africa
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Ugly, but it worked for me.

Router1.jpg

Router2.jpg
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  #100  
Old Mon 20 June 2011, 22:07
Red_boards
Just call me: Red #91
 
Melbourne
Australia
Thanks, Kobus. Yes, the Makita has screws into the body like yours that I could utilise, but the GMC is "cleverly" engineered for integrated assembly of the spring loaded base, dust extraction and main body.
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  #101  
Old Tue 21 June 2011, 00:02
Kobus_Joubert
Just call me: Kobus #6
 
Dalview
South Africa
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I would think that if you take the handles off, and unscrew that black glide plate it should mount straight onto a base like mine. I would not worry to use the router dust extraction and will make my own dust foot.
or
Buy a spindle....you will NEVER look back...trust me. It took nearly 3 years for me to come to this point and I must say there should be no alternative...
Spindle is the answer. I know it's expensive, but it puts your machine on another level.

Last edited by Kobus_Joubert; Tue 21 June 2011 at 00:04..
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  #102  
Old Tue 21 June 2011, 06:00
hennie
Just call me: Hennie #23
 
Roodepoort JHB
South Africa
Try this
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg 3.jpg (20.9 KB, 704 views)
File Type: jpg 4.jpg (19.1 KB, 706 views)
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  #103  
Old Tue 21 June 2011, 22:28
Red_boards
Just call me: Red #91
 
Melbourne
Australia
Nice, Hennie. Thanks.

Kobus,
A spindle is on the agenda. Just want to get cutting first with the router because of the easier electronics setup and cost. I'll buy a spindle on my next trip to China.
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  #104  
Old Wed 09 May 2012, 06:41
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
side note: Milwaukee is a great brand name. The company is owned by the Techtronic Industry TTI. They also make AEG which is know for heavy duty tools but they are also the manufacturer of Ryobi an often overlooked product line by hoe owners. My point here is that if you want to save money Ryobi is not a bad way to go. My Ryobi grinder and 14 inch chop saw have been put through a lot of abuse and they are responsible for making the pile of steel I bought into the main structure of the MechMate. http://www.ttigroup.com/en/our_brands
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  #105  
Old Wed 09 May 2012, 15:05
WTI
Just call me: James
 
Detroit (Michigan)
United States of America
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrayhursh View Post
side note: Milwaukee is a great brand name. The company is owned by the Techtronic Industry TTI. [/url]
Milwaukee used to be a great brand.


Our old Milwaukee 5625-29 routers say Made in USA. The new one says Made in China.

Wanna place any bets as to which ones last longer?
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  #106  
Old Tue 09 October 2012, 14:35
slobato
Just call me: Leandro
 
Lauro de Freitas
Brazil
Hi Everybody


I have a wood router AWT/DWT Model: F-1200. I would obtain a electronic drawing for adapt in my mechmate project. Anybody can help me?

Follow details of my router:

Image:


Specs:

Trademark: AWT/DWT
Motor: Universal
Rated Power: 1200 W
No-load Speed: 11.500 - 32.000 RPM
Pliers Diameter: 6mm - 8mm - 1/4"
Deep of cut: 0 - 30 mm
Weight: 5 kg

Similar Product Specs:

http://www.dwt-pt.com/pt_of.php
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  #107  
Old Tue 09 October 2012, 17:44
Red_boards
Just call me: Red #91
 
Melbourne
Australia
Good luck on getting plans.
The 1550W machine in post #98 stalled a few times in deep cuts on wood, so first decide whether the 1200W has enough power.
I think you'll be taking the side handles, base, legs and springs off and then looking for screws that you can take out and use for attaching a L-shaped base plate that you then bolt to the z-axis as shown in posts #99 and #102.

PS Even if you by-pass the on/off switch, keep the spark dampening box that's attached to the on/off switch, because this helps keep the tool alive longer
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  #108  
Old Tue 09 October 2012, 22:49
slobato
Just call me: Leandro
 
Lauro de Freitas
Brazil
Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_boards View Post
Good luck on getting plans.
The 1550W machine in post #98 stalled a few times in deep cuts on wood, so first decide whether the 1200W has enough power.
I think you'll be taking the side handles, base, legs and springs off and then looking for screws that you can take out and use for attaching a L-shaped base plate that you then bolt to the z-axis as shown in posts #99 and #102.

PS Even if you by-pass the on/off switch, keep the spark dampening box that's attached to the on/off switch, because this helps keep the tool alive longer
I need of electronic diagram to adapt in Mechmate, do you have? Thanks.
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  #109  
Old Wed 10 October 2012, 09:48
slobato
Just call me: Leandro
 
Lauro de Freitas
Brazil
I found this solution in Brazilian CNC Forum:








Last edited by slobato; Wed 10 October 2012 at 10:05..
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  #110  
Old Sat 28 September 2013, 04:26
lonestaral
Just call me: Al #114
 
Isarn
Thailand
Send a message via Skype™ to lonestaral
Aeg rt 1350 e

I will be using a AEG router until I can justify a spindel.

I had to cut the handles off to get it to fit in.
Remove the switch.
I put 2 M12 bolts where the pillars were.
Tape it up to keep the dust out.
I used them to bolt the router to a plate.

I got a plate profile cut.
Drilled the holes in the plate.

Drilled and tapped 2 M8 through the Z plate and Z slide tube.

Bolt the plate to the Z slide plate.
Insert the router and bolt to the plate.

The tape isn't very elegant but it works..

Tried it out today, machine cutting.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Mechmate.248.jpg (40.0 KB, 201 views)
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File Type: jpg Mechmate.257.jpg (45.1 KB, 201 views)
File Type: jpg Mechmate.259.jpg (31.8 KB, 200 views)
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