|
|
#61
Mon 15 March 2010, 03:38
|
|||
|
|||
|
It's looking good guys. With warmer weather on the way maybe it won't be so painful to work on it now.
Richard 
|
|
#62
Mon 15 March 2010, 04:20
|
|||
|
|||
|
Yeah, the hard (at least the heavy work) is over...
Now it is bolt part A on Part B, using bolt C in hole D or is it Bolt D part using D Bolt in D hole (read D as 'the').. Seriously, my thoughts were that the table (and rails) would be the demanding part for us. Now we have a small decision as to what area to focus on next, carriage cars or go ahead and mount the rails... decisions, decisions, decisions..... 
|
|
#63
Mon 15 March 2010, 05:11
|
|||
|
|||
|
I focus on 2 parts,
1) the fabrication & 2)Installation. Fabrication is heavy & dirty; A clean & tidy working area is helpful during installation. So I did all the "dirty" work while the floor still covered with steel chips & grinding dust. You don't want to constantly look out for drill chips or dust during installation, do you? Sticking to the "ground-up" approach, i.e. work from what ever that is nearer to the ground automatically eliminate lots of decision making 
|
|
#64
Thu 13 May 2010, 17:47
|
|||
|
|||
|
fabrication finished....
Well the pictures have been slow because the progress has been slow. One of us (Stan) just had to go scuba diving in the caribbean for a week
 But the major fabrication is finished, now onto the small parts (stopper blocks, etc), transmissions, and other...
|
|
#65
Fri 18 June 2010, 20:36
|
|||
|
|||
|
Kitchen Table err Dining Room Table done....
three days of work, including going back and forth to town (1hr round trip) for wire to test with....
Then I realized that I ordered 270ohm instead of 270K ohm.. Over to my other shop (I have too many shops).... Use a bit lower value, wth, this just testing...... things that are supposed to click, click and things that are supposed to turn, turn. Time to finish the transmissions...... order belts (since I ordered the wrong ones). Come to think of it, I haven't ordered the wrong thing more than once, just different wrong things.... Notice I managed not to get a photo of my feet..
|
|
#66
Wed 30 June 2010, 19:51
|
|||
|
|||
|
More progress.....
transmissions complete, just got to put belts on.....
z slide complete, just mounted tonight..... tool mount complete (used k2cnc from other machine).... wire run completed, time to start stripping and connecting... PC configured and tested with control panel.... Sorry for the bad pic.....
|
|
#67
Thu 01 July 2010, 09:02
|
|||
|
|||
|
Where's that blue paint?
 Looking good. You'll be cutting soon.
|
|
#68
Thu 01 July 2010, 10:47
|
|||
|
|||
|
rushing.....
My buildmate and I are pushing to finish this thing as there is already work to be had...
I was thinking this morning that this might be a situation in which the machine gets pressed into service, make some money, build a second one in order to get one painted.... ;-) Probably a pipe dream. Seriously, we will have to get this thing running and usable and then consider painting in the future. I don't like the idea of having to clean it up in order to paint, but we all live in the real world. Stan
|
|
#69
Thu 01 July 2010, 10:51
|
|||
|
|||
|
Hector.....
I tried to send you an email but it would not go through.
I bought the zslide from Leo Jones aka Castone? I would definitely NOT want to make that part. Also if we (I) build another one (yes, it is remotely being considered), I'd get as many parts pre-fab'd as possible. Check out MetalHead's post in the marketplace section. Stan
|
|
#70
Thu 01 July 2010, 12:54
|
|||
|
|||
|
Stan,
Thanks...ill try to contact Leo... Hector
|
|
#71
Fri 02 July 2010, 21:47
|
|||
|
|||
|
we got motion.....
With the nephew's help got the transmission belts adjusted, mechmate wired (basic only at this point)...
AND WE HAVE MOTION..... Now to the part I dread -----> finish and tuning... Any good reference on the forum concerning feed/speed? I understand the YMMV clause but .... Can we post videos or do we do that on youtube and link to it? Stan
|
|
#72
Fri 02 July 2010, 22:17
|
|||
|
|||
|
Stan,
for posting video's we usually use youtube or vimeo. About feeds/speeds... I am still playing around with that and I am still cutting slow (to slow??), but I like to take my time, I just make sure I don't cut to slow because of heating up my bits. Facing I do at 8000mm/minute and cutting between 2000-4000mm/minute. I have HSS bits currently and a deWalt router. And since I don't have any collets but 1/4", this is what I currently cut with. If I want to cut faster I listen to my router and when I notice the RPM's go down, then I know I hit my feed limit. Some people sayed that when cutting wood, you need to do this as fast as people to remove heat as fast as possible. I know Kobus cut's at no more then half the bit diameter, I started to do this to with good results. Less hit on my bits and they stay sharp. It just takes a bit more time, but I am not in a hurry. I never broke a bit myself, just a collet but there is a big chance in the beginning you will do something wrong and you might break something, lot's of people start with the cheap bits (HSS) , then buy the carbide stuff. About tuning, did you tune your Gecko's? I didn't do in the beginning, but later did... Honestly I didn't notice a difference. Make sure your e-stop works! Might come in handy Check your manual feed rate so it's not to high for moving the machine around, yes it can go very fast!!! Also, start slow here... Make sure your soft-limits (in software) are setup correctly so you will not run into your end stops. Later I made auto-homing, and I love it Specially when you hit teh e-stop and need to find your touch-off position again.Lastly, I am not a pro! They are just my experiences.... BTW.. great job, and I am glad you found work already for it! Ries
|
|
#73
Sat 03 July 2010, 09:43
|
|||
|
|||
|
Paint, ain't......a big problem. I am sure it will be easier than painting triumphs. Besides we will have to move it, if I ever want to get a car back in my garage, and what a better time to pull apart and paint and finish.
|
|
#74
Sat 03 July 2010, 09:55
|
|||
|
|||
|
Grab a paint bucket & a roller brush. Paint were used to be painted with paint brush
Besides, it is a small but good way to pay tribute to a good design & keeping rust off.
|
|
#75
Sun 04 July 2010, 05:49
|
|||
|
|||
|
video posted
|
|
#76
Mon 26 July 2010, 17:11
|
|||
|
|||
|
BHMDF now onsite....
Big Heavy MDF --- 121" x 61" x 1"..
Tuning the movement.... Will cut the pockets and drill points for the MDF soon....
|
|
#77
Mon 26 July 2010, 20:51
|
|||
|
|||
|
Yes. My table had that too. 4 guys to load on table from delivery truck.
|
|
#78
Sun 01 August 2010, 19:20
|
|||
|
|||
Surfacing Table issues
Ok people... Tried to use the Mach Surface wizard, finally gave up after a bit, used the code but created my own pgm...
The table is scalloped (about 7-10 thou) as the bit passes down and back. We are using a 0.75 carbide 2flute to surface the MDF (removing about 0.1 at 300 ipm). My leading thought is that the "plus (towards xmax)" pass is deeper than the "minus (towards X0)" pass due to one pass being climb and the other conventional cutting. Any thoughts as this is not really acceptable. I have thought of creating a gcode that goes round n round the square. Ted thought of cutting off the table back around the edge and back onto the table. I thought of making one pass, up the z a bit, return, drop the z, and do it again. I'm also thinking of places in the mechanics that would cause this issue (spider play, z play, runout on the router). The gantry and ycar seem well seated without noticable twisting (but of course we are only talking of a few thou. here and there). 
|
|
#79
Sun 01 August 2010, 19:47
|
|||
|
|||
|
Sounds like the Z axis is out of square with the table in the Y axis. This could cause the scallops you are seeing.
|
|
#80
Sun 01 August 2010, 20:11
|
|||
|
|||
|
Or the Spindle itself...
I remember there was a thread about it, initiated by Gerald but I cannot find it. There is a small 'trick' to test this squareness very easy. Although easy modified at the spindle, one should also check the z-plane for squareness. I forgot the correct terms to search on, I know 100% sure it's on the forum, somewhere... I can clearly see the pictures of teh methods, however Google doesn't have any Mechmate pictures during search..
|
|
#81
Sun 01 August 2010, 20:51
|
|||
|
|||
|
Reis I think the word your are looking for is "Tramming" or "Indicating".
|
|
#82
Sun 01 August 2010, 23:33
|
|||
|
|||
|
Setting the Z-slide square (perpendicular) to the table top
But, first check that all screws are tight and that the z-slide is firmly pinched in its V-rollers. With the router/spindle OFF and the stepper motors powered up, grab hold of the collet and push/pull it hard in all directions. It should feel rock solid.
|
|
#83
Mon 02 August 2010, 05:12
|
|||
|
|||
|
Great thoughts and leads which is what I was looking for. I will double check the "stiffness" aspect as it is the easiest to check.
The pattern doesn't seem to be so much as a router tilted (due to zslide not being perpendicular to table, router mount, etc) but more like the router cuts deeper and then shallower (around the entire bit). As this was checked during that portion of the build (could have gotten moved so it is worth checking). Think something like this.....(grossly overexaggerated vertical length).... Where the "higher" cuts are one direction and the "lower" cuts are the other direction. Granted that the pattern may be caused by a combination of factors.. Onto the trammel.. Obviously one probably should not attempt to build one that is several feet long from the rotation axis nor just an inch or so, but is there a "sweet" spot range of length? Stan
|
|
#84
Mon 02 August 2010, 05:22
|
|||
|
|||
|
A 4" to 6" trammel should be plenty accurate enough.
|
|
#85
Mon 09 August 2010, 19:20
|
|||
|
|||
|
Next Issue...
Now that the scallop issue is dealt with (much easier than I expected)...
The next one just plain sucks.... dust collection.... read and read and read.... What've got... single stage DC system running 4" hose. First attempt at a dust foot/shoe was miserable, actually never happy with the one on my other cnc router either... Basic question is this which pvc-to-hose adaptor are people using. Rockler has two (assuming one inserts into a female pvc fitting and the other inserts into the pvc pipe)? stan
|
|
#86
Mon 09 August 2010, 20:08
|
|||
|
|||
|
Stan as far as a dust shoe have you seen JesseJames "Split Shoe" I have never owned one but looks like a great design. Here is a Video on Youtube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8ehF...eature=channel Link to the Thread Post 27 has all the info on it. http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showt...6&postcount=27 Can you stretch the Vacuum hose over the Pvc. It would seem to me a large hose clamp would work better than any of the fittings. I might not be thinking the right way.
|
|
#87
Tue 10 August 2010, 04:34
|
|||
|
|||
|
Stan,
I'm using the corrugated vinyl hose, 90 degree elbows, blast gates (I can select which of two routers the dust collector is to work with by opening one and closing the other) and straight couplings from Woodcraft in Raleigh,NC. The hose will fit snugly over schedule 40 PVC pipe, but as I recall, it does not fit into the next larger size coupling so as to not make a restriction in the hose. My dust shoe has a straight PVC pipe coupling glued into it. To keep the joints together I just used a layer of Gorilla tape. The coupling is tight enough in the hose to not move. (At least not with my puny 1hp Delta dust collector.) Drop by here and take a look at it this week. Richard
|
|
#88
Tue 10 August 2010, 19:42
|
|||
|
|||
|
I shrink my 4" pipe to go into the flexible hose & clamp it with hose clamp.
I don't glue all my fittings. & small leaks has no detremental effect on the performance. I also started with SCH40 pipe & then I realise it is stupid of me to waste money on thicker pipe, now my choice is thin uPVC pipes. The vecuum is too little to do any damage to even paper pipes...
|
|
#89
Wed 18 August 2010, 18:28
|
|||
|
|||
|
First Part - Dust Shoe.
made this out of 3/8 lexan (polycarbonate). This is the second. The first I tried to cut like acrylic doh....
Too much fun.... Now to try and resurface the table again (too much dust everywhere the first time) Stan
|
|
#90
Thu 19 August 2010, 01:23
|
|||
|
|||
|
Stan
A quick release cam lock, nice touch ! Regards Ross
|
 |
| Register | Options | Profile | Last 1 | 3 | 7 Days | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
| Thread Tools | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Workin for Beer #24 - Littleton, Colorado | lunaj76 | MechMates already cutting | 133 | Wed 09 May 2012 08:35 |
| Vacuum Table.... | salewis | 10. Base Table | 5 | Mon 08 August 2011 21:23 |
| Flower Carvings and Skateboards! - Littleton, CO | lunaj76 | The Show Room | 15 | Wed 20 July 2011 21:46 |
| vacuum table question | tldj55 | General - MM Build | 1 | Sun 23 January 2011 19:53 |
| Can I use this for vacuum pump? | 15mgtar | 55. Dust Management | 7 | Fri 26 March 2010 10:48 |
