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  #241  
Old Mon 06 December 2010, 21:54
jessyjames
Just call me: James
 
Reno, Nevada
United States of America
Wayne just curious of what bit you are using? Looks like a .0625" bit. Please let us know if you don't mind.

Thanks in advance,
James
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  #242  
Old Mon 06 December 2010, 22:38
Rad Racer
Just call me: Wayne #25
 
Minnesota
United States of America
Yes, I used a .0625 (1/16") carbide endmill.
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  #243  
Old Wed 05 January 2011, 11:56
jehayes
Just call me: Joe #53
 
Whidbey Island, Washington
United States of America
Wayne: Thanks for the tips on doing inlays. When you make the inlay, how do you cut it, i.e., do you cut it into a solid block and then saw the block to release the inlay, or do you use the MM to profile cut it from thin stock, or some other method?

Thanks

Joe #53
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  #244  
Old Wed 05 January 2011, 23:53
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Quote:
Originally Posted by jehayes View Post
. . . do you cut it into a solid block and then saw the block to release the inlay. . . . .
From what I understand, the solid block is glued to the panel and then the block is planed/sanded down to reveal the inlay.
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  #245  
Old Thu 06 January 2011, 04:04
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Joe, Gerald

Inlay is a minimum of two parts “profile cutting”…… no sawing to “release/reveal” the inlay pattern.

A pattern is lay “in” ( or in other words “down in the profiled pocket”)to the main pieces!
Minimum of two pieces of wood is needed:
A - The main pieces of wood which will receive the pattern ( in Wayne photo, the pale pieces of wood ) that gets some pockets machined .
B – The patterns itself which is cut with a thinner pieces of woof that will serve as the “inlayed part” to be fitted in the pocket relief. Must be a little thicker than the depth of the pocket allowing height room to be then flush sanded to a nice leveled surface.
Some may go more intricately by inlaying additional pieces over some already done ”inlay” pieces, meaning, a second or more inlay steps I just above describe over the previously is done !

Hope this clears some interrogations?
Amicalement
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  #246  
Old Thu 06 January 2011, 11:52
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Robert, it is easier to clamp and hold the inlay section (Part B) if it is part of a block of solid wood (or plywood)
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  #247  
Old Thu 06 January 2011, 12:04
jehayes
Just call me: Joe #53
 
Whidbey Island, Washington
United States of America
Robert/Gerald: Thanks for your replies. However, I guess my question was not well put. It is - How do you cut the piece to be inlaid?

If it is cut from thin stock how do you do so without leaving tabs (which will interfere with a tight fit into the socket)

Joe
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  #248  
Old Thu 06 January 2011, 12:24
Drad98_98
Just call me: Dave #52
 
Fort Ripley, MN
United States of America
Joe,
What Wayne does is pocket the first board to accept the inlay, then (depending on the inlay pocket depth), he either double face tape or glue the 2nd piece (to be inlayed into the first piece) to a flat piece of hardboard kinda like a secondary spoil board and cuts out the design. Usually he works with a 1/4" piece for the inlay mainly it is easy to come by or cut yourself. As long as it is taller than the pocket to allow for finish sanding. I did some that were larger and for those you can use tabs and just sand them off, just sand carefully. Hope that helps, wayne must either be busy or slacking lol
Dave
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  #249  
Old Thu 06 January 2011, 12:31
Drad98_98
Just call me: Dave #52
 
Fort Ripley, MN
United States of America
A pic of my first time with inlay, I used thin Lauan (sp?) plywood for the inlay and I ended up sanding off the first ply so it didnt turn out that great. You should use solid wood but I was playing around with what I had for scrap.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC02231.JPG (129.1 KB, 968 views)
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  #250  
Old Thu 06 January 2011, 14:10
firechief
Just call me: Tim
 
Battle Creek
United States of America
That still looks nice, it will only get better from here
Tim
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  #251  
Old Fri 07 January 2011, 02:23
Rad Racer
Just call me: Wayne #25
 
Minnesota
United States of America
Sorry for the late reply....my boss called for a staff meeting in California. I have had 3 solid days of travel and meetings (10+ hours/day) not much time for forum reading

Robert and Dave discribed the inlay process pretty well, not sure I have much to add. Maybe the only thing to add is that your inlay part, should be cut to the same size as the pocket. The fit will be very tight, but can pressed together easier if you slightly bevel the bottom edges. Wood glue (TiteBond) will also act as a lubricate making it easier to press the two parts together.
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  #252  
Old Fri 07 January 2011, 05:48
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Since a photo is worth so many word, I’ve joint a PDF image (Inlay bevel cutting technique.pdf ) that shows how it is done when cut « manually » with either a manual or motorize scroll saw ( +/- 15° angle cut ).
Obviously, this technique could / can become quite a challenge on a CNC, but you get the “picture” when WAYNE says “but can pressed together easier if you slightly bevel the bottom edges” .

Gerald,
Although I have yet devoted time to practice and cut marquetery by CNC, my reply to your question could not be supported by experience as much as I did marquetry by “hand”.
My initial though would give a try by cutting the inlay part by either using small tabs strategically positioned so it would make it easy to “hand finish” it or…. Do a glue approach by sticking a craft paper to the back side of the inlay material part to be then glued again to a sacrificial cutting board ( mdf) with a little “breakthrough” cutting depth.
After the cutting of the inlay part, pry peal the remaining “good” inlay part from the sacrificial board ! this last is quite easy as the craft paper tears and can easily by used as a good “re-glued” surface for final gluing !

Obviously this last technique is not recommended to patterns with fine delicate edges !
When that will be called for, when I’ll spend time to try inlay with my cnc, I’ll come back with my approach !

Hope this can help some
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  #253  
Old Sat 08 January 2011, 09:26
normand blais
Just call me: Normand
 
montreal
Canada
This is another procedure ,for cnc .Might have been posted before
http://www.vectric.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4146
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  #254  
Old Sat 08 January 2011, 20:24
jehayes
Just call me: Joe #53
 
Whidbey Island, Washington
United States of America
Normand: That link to vectric was very useful. Thanks

Joe
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  #255  
Old Sun 09 January 2011, 05:15
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Might have been posted before……Age is slowly working in me too, but do remember 1st here : An easy way to make inlays using V Carve then : Inlays of wood patterns

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  #256  
Old Sun 09 January 2011, 11:25
normand blais
Just call me: Normand
 
montreal
Canada
glad to know that am only half baked . Anyway as long as I have that neurone that keep me from pooping all over am ok
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  #257  
Old Sun 09 December 2012, 12:15
Rad Racer
Just call me: Wayne #25
 
Minnesota
United States of America
Been along time.

Hi All,

It's been forever since my last post. Still using my MechMate regularly, just don't seem to have the time to post updates.

Been building on my new shop, the Mechmate is my prized tool...she takes center stage

Here's a couple of my most recent projects:

The first is a very large fan. I priced a Big A$$ fan (yes it's the companys real name) for my new shop but it was way too expensive...they wanted $6K for a 14' fan. So I built my own

Here's a picture of the completed fan. The entire unit was made with the MechMate and a little welded metal. I have fan construction photo's but they are too large to upload. I need to resize to post.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSCN5067.JPG (95.3 KB, 462 views)
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  #258  
Old Sun 09 December 2012, 12:20
Rad Racer
Just call me: Wayne #25
 
Minnesota
United States of America
Dust collection

I have nearly completed the installation of my dust collector. Some of you my remember the collector from prevous posts. I built this cyclone using Bill Pentz plans.

The cyclone works great....it really sucks
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSCN5068.JPG (95.8 KB, 463 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN5071.JPG (97.8 KB, 464 views)
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  #259  
Old Sun 09 December 2012, 12:29
Rad Racer
Just call me: Wayne #25
 
Minnesota
United States of America
Here's a couple of fan blade construction photos
Attached Images
File Type: jpg fan blade.JPG (57.3 KB, 460 views)
File Type: jpg fan blade1.JPG (70.3 KB, 459 views)
File Type: jpg fan blade2.JPG (75.1 KB, 459 views)
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  #260  
Old Sun 09 December 2012, 13:01
Rad Racer
Just call me: Wayne #25
 
Minnesota
United States of America
Here's the fan motor assy. I used a 1/3hp 3ph motor and a VFD for control. With a VFD the fan operates just like a regular ceiling fan (forward, reverse, variable speed). For the fan hub I used a trailer axel very robust, should last forever.

BTW, the industrial name for this type of fan is HVLS fans. They are designed to move a ton of air at low speed. This fan is design to spin at 25 to 85 rpms. Because I have infloor heating, I run the fan at 25rpms all winter....this air movement allows for even heating in my shop. At 25 rpms, the fan only consumes about 90watts of power....it's very efficient.

Here's a picture of me with the fan...gives you some idea of the size

Wayne
Attached Images
File Type: jpg fan motor.JPG (81.1 KB, 448 views)
File Type: jpg fan motor 1.JPG (82.4 KB, 451 views)
File Type: jpg fan.jpg (95.1 KB, 451 views)
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  #261  
Old Sun 09 December 2012, 13:04
Rad Racer
Just call me: Wayne #25
 
Minnesota
United States of America
Moving the MechMate to the new shop

Moving the MechMate to my new shop
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Mechmate move.JPG (98.6 KB, 454 views)
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  #262  
Old Sun 09 December 2012, 14:07
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Wayne,

Nice shop.

I like your fan. What does it cost to build the motor unit? Interesting idea.
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  #263  
Old Sun 09 December 2012, 15:45
Rad Racer
Just call me: Wayne #25
 
Minnesota
United States of America
Nils,

The motor was purchased(new) from Ebay for $25 + shipping...the other parts (hub, bearings, shaft, pulleys, etc...) were purchased from our local farm supply store.

Not sure how much I have into the power unit.....but I only spent ~$300 to build the whole fan.

Wayne
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  #264  
Old Tue 11 December 2012, 17:09
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Hi Wayne, glad to see some old mates...

Nice “inverted plane propeller’’ fan, if this still fall as a fan !
Excuse my ignorance on air movement, but…..why not a few smaller ones around the shop ?!
I can see more ‘hassle’ and more cost going with a few…..vs your mammoth ingenuity !
Space must also be in account.....and seems you have plenty of...head room
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  #265  
Old Tue 11 December 2012, 19:31
zumergido
Just call me: Fernando
 
BS AS
Argentina
becouse is nice to have huge blades that can chop you head in any moment. dont know.. makes you apreciate your life every day.

i have to make that fan.
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  #266  
Old Tue 11 December 2012, 20:57
Regnar
Just call me: Russell #69
 
Mobile, Alabama
United States of America
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert M View Post
Hi Wayne, glad to see some old mates...
Excuse my ignorance on air movement, but…..why not a few smaller ones around the shop ?!
I know from the ones we have at work is that its is a constant, smooth no dead area of air movement. The air movement feels very natural, almost like a breezy day under a tree. Only consuming 90 watts and hour is a huge saving over having multiple fans. I should also mention the noise from the fan is almost insignificant to the amount of air it moves.
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  #267  
Old Tue 11 December 2012, 22:42
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Quote:
Originally Posted by zumergido View Post

i have to make that fan.

That is valid reason to build one
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  #268  
Old Wed 12 December 2012, 05:27
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
I already have fans in my shop, but I'd really like to build one too.
It just plain looks cool.
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  #269  
Old Thu 13 December 2012, 16:51
Rad Racer
Just call me: Wayne #25
 
Minnesota
United States of America
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert M View Post
Hi Wayne, glad to see some old mates...
Nice “inverted plane propeller’’ fan, if this still fall as a fan !
Excuse my ignorance on air movement, but…..why not a few smaller ones around the shop ?!
I can see more ‘hassle’ and more cost going with a few…..vs your mammoth ingenuity !
Space must also be in account.....and seems you have plenty of...head room
Hi Robert, good to speak with you again

Exactly, I built to look like a big airplane prop. Look close and you will see safety cables, what you can't see is the super structure (in the ceiling) to support the fan.... no worries about it falling.

I could have used little fans, but it would have taken 6 or more to move the same amount of air....at a greater cost.

Plenty of head room in the shop. I have 14ft ceilings, fan hangs at 12ft, plenty of clearence to swing around lumber
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  #270  
Old Thu 13 December 2012, 16:55
Rad Racer
Just call me: Wayne #25
 
Minnesota
United States of America
Quote:
Originally Posted by zumergido View Post
becouse is nice to have huge blades that can chop you head in any moment. dont know.. makes you apreciate your life every day.

i have to make that fan.
At max speed the tips travel at 60+ mph.....I might hurt if you got your fingers in the blade
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