#151
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Now I see, well I just bridged my Din rail connectors for powerdistribution ( you can buy nice bridges for that purpose), which would have saved you a lot of tinkering time on your lathe by the looks of it...
But your solution should work equally if not better. |
#152
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Your ground will always carry the unbalanced load. Not many people know how to balance a load and it even harder to do with single phase equipment.
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#153
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Spider Work
Welded up the spider. Was really worried about warping after reading about welding on the spider.
All welded up without any warping. I clamped it and welded with as little heat as possible. The nuts and standoffs get very little force after welding. The Motor support also was clamped and held in place. No full welds. Welded the ends and a spot in the middle. |
#154
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Z Slide
Drilled and tapped the Z-Slide Tube (1/4-28 threads).
Checked for fit and sized up the Motor bracket. |
#155
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Shimmed the X-beams
Figured out what shims I needed while the paint dried on the Gantry and Y Car.
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#156
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You are not calculating for any errors in your V-rails height by figuring out shimming in this way ( if you did not know that already )
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#157
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Fox,
Thanks for checking in on me. These were preliminary shims to compensate for the variation in the main beams. When I install the V-Rails I am hoping to be very close and then only be shimming for variations in the V-Rail itself. The cut height of my V Rail is pretty consistent. The depth of the bevel could vary. The only way to measure that is by rolling the gantry. |
#158
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Spindle Mount
Started boring out the spindle mount I had found in surplus. Found that my boring head is too small to complete the cut.
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#159
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Ah ok I see, I put those shims under my X rails (boltable design)
We're kind of the same stage of the build. I managed to cut my V rails height to +/- 0.1mm past week. The V-cuts difference will show in unequal top flange (wavy) width and the height of your L-profiles untill the botom of the V can be measured as well with a digital caliper (wavy) ? Measured mine, and they also vary a bit +/- 0,1 mm, but I was not surprised considering the crude grinder setup, or actually I was that it was that good ( I had some considerations) The gantry was already rolling smooth yesterday evening ( only did the 36 and 80 grid grind ). I will proceed with a final hand polish up to 400/600 grit and a v-block when everything is shimmed ( not there yet - fighting with some electronics currently ) Let's see who get's there first ! Ps. you already win in my opinion cause you still find time to keep updating your build thread - I dediced I will just do one major update afterwards - but I keep taking pics and videos during the build. |
#160
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Hand polish with 400/600 grit???
Are you a glutton for punishment? |
#161
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I have been trying to keep busy on this project just to make sure I get it finished. Now you are giving me incentive to finish quickly.
I will have to fight the urge to put aside precision for speed of building. I too have electrical work that needs to be done. I think I have all of the parts needed. I have been doing the easier mechanical work first. I have also been thinking of how to do the V-block Flatting of the rails or at least to see the highs and lows. I think a 12" long block would be minimum. Just need to prevent tilting side to side while sliding down the rail. |
#162
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Don't worry about polishing the rail. The Hardened VEE roller will do it in about a month of use!
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#163
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I am more interested in checking for waviness in the rail as a result of changes in the depth of the bevel. If I stain the bevels (marking pen) on the rail and slide a 12" v block along it, I may find out it is fine. Just need to know, kind of anal that way.
Or. . . I can hurry up and finish the build and do the fine tuning later. |
#164
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John,
I see your point. The taught piano wire and shim technique with feeler gauge does a wonderful job too. Sean |
#165
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I need to be careful that I am not trying to create unnecessary precision. The vertical precision would only be necessary within the area that I am doing 3d work. Over the entire length of the table I would be doing 2D work and vertical precision doesn't matter as much. I may have just talked myself out of going down this rabbit hole of precision.
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#166
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I also found that in using the machine....30 thousands of an inch 5 feet away doesn't really translate to anything when the material you are cutting moves that much with the humidity. If this was an IRON giant and milling billet metal, different story...but the MM is a routing type machine that this precision is achievable, but not always noticed.
(quick story....I ran over a shop rag while cutting multiple sheets of the same parts - never noticed a difference!) Good luck! Sean Last edited by smreish; Tue 03 June 2014 at 09:30.. |
#167
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The problem with trying to determine the accuracy is finding an accurate reference point, line or plane to begin with.
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#168
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I too hate the fact that I can't spend full days on it, usually 1 day in the weekend and one night during the week. I think I am about a full week of work away from first cut, but due this restraint it will be more then a month before I reach that point I am afraid.
Accuracy of rails: I totally understand the motivation to just let them be at 80 grit, and I agree the metal machine will move more then the rails in the heat/cold, but for me it makes sense as for sure it won't make the machine worse and does actually not eat a lot of time. I used a metal v block and some sandpaper and just run it the entire length it actually easily polishes the rail quite quickly. I did a test with some 120 grit in 5 minutes for one rail. Dunno of I will take it as far as 400 right now ... but 240 I will, my estimate is it will only cost me about an hour for all 4* rails, based on my test, and it will take out any imperfections. * ( my Z has linears) Small price to pay on my total build time, or even compared to grinding time, and it gives me ease of mind for the future. For example if I shim it it, it won't settle any different after some use because of the small imperfection in the rails are settling. This V-block will also come handy in the future to get small nicks out of the rails or shave of the burrs of the rails that occured to some folks after running it in, or simply cleaning them up. Last edited by Fox; Wed 04 June 2014 at 02:36.. |
#169
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Fox, You worried too much, no evil will creep back if you leave the rails as it is. Just skip the polishing, you got more important stuff to tackle
U gotta have faith... |
#170
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Finished boring the spindle mounts I picked up from surplus. Need to trim the base and add some mounting holes.
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#171
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Looks good. While you have everything unmounted you might want to drill and tap some extra holes for attaching other items to spindle mount later.
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#172
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Very nice work.
That thing looks like it could crush your spndle. |
#173
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Nice mount and fabrication...the only downside I see theres no substantial bolt trough possible with that little flange ? you will have to tap it to mount it ? It's easy to strip the soft alu...
Ps1. I indeed added some extra M6 and m5 bolt holes to my spindle mount, which I can use to simple add square metal pieces of sheet to, which can be modified at will, with holes etc for laser, air, etc without destroying my beautifull mount, plus ... they allow for magnetic feet of the mist cooling etc to be attached (spindle mount is made of aluminium). Ps2. I indeed worry too much, sometimes a good habit, sometimes bad. |
#174
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It is a little hefty. I want to remove some material but it's more difficult to do on the outside.
The hold down will be either Counter bore from the inside of the mount and bolt through the Z plate or drill for inserts on the back and bolt through the Z-plate into the mount. Thanks for the suggestion on drilling accessory holes, never though of it. |
#175
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I quit messing with the spindle mount and installed the painted Gantry, rails and Y-Car.
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#176
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Installed the Z-Axis and Motor.
Pulled in wires. Moved the controller to the table so I couldn't ignore it any more. |
#177
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Looking real nice John, I nominate you for the next serial number as you are advancing more than me at the moment You'll be making that lovely clean machine all dusty in no time.
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#178
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More motivation to get through the control penal.
Don't be intimidated by the control penal wiring, think about it this way, all the terminals are labeled, you just have to connect the right terminals together with wires. If you had done your kitchen table project, it will be a piece of cake. |
#179
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Bruce,
It looks promising but you never know what is lurking around the next corner. Ken, The plan is to make this my Kitchen Table. I'll keep the pinions away from the racks until the bugs are stomped out. |
#180
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ok, 2 pieces of cakes :P
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