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  #1  
Old Tue 10 November 2009, 13:10
salewis
Just call me: Stan #67
 
Littleton, NC
United States of America
New Vacuum Table! #67 - Littleton, NC

It's official as parts have arrived (more to come later). Laser cut parts here (thanks Joe). Some of the "kitchen table" parts in transit, rest to be ordered later in the week..

Yippie Skippy.....

Now the questions begin as we (my building buddy and I) start the process...

We are beginning with the y-car. I have reviewed/printed the y-car welding order in the forum.

I think it makes sense, BUT I want to make sure as I'm much better at the wiring/electronics than the fabrication end...

The part that is referenced on the flat surface is 10 30 455 (tower carrier plate). This is the part (along with 10 30 450 - car carrier plate) that must be "square" with the flat reference plane.

Correct?

I'll post some pics in a bit...

Stan (half of the Stan and Ted team)
Attached Images
File Type: jpg LaserCut.jpg (227.1 KB, 2473 views)

Last edited by salewis; Tue 10 November 2009 at 13:25..
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  #2  
Old Wed 11 November 2009, 06:58
riesvantwisk
Just call me: Ries #46
 
Quito
Ecuador
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Stan you will have two Tower Carrier Plates. Between these two plates you will put the spider.
10 30 422, 10 30 450, 10 30 455 belong to each other and are going to get assembled in 10 30 000.

Important is that 10 30 422 is flat and straight and non-warping after bending (on the drawings there are notes with accuracy's if I remember...) 10 30 455 should also be reasonable flat (spider get's attached to it)

If any warping occurs then this will be 'corrected' once you start welding 10 30 450 on 10 30 422 (they are profile cuts but you get the picture) since 10 30 450 will fall in the slots shown on drawing 10 30 422 things will get straightened fairly well.

If that's not the case and you put a car carrier plate on there, then the v-rollers might not be square and even to touch the rails , this can be corrected because for this part you will have adjustable V-Rollers.

Also, don't forget to countersink the holes shown on 10 30 450 before welding.... Post some pictures.

Ries
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  #3  
Old Wed 11 November 2009, 15:07
salewis
Just call me: Stan #67
 
Littleton, NC
United States of America
More pics...

Got the zslide and tube in today from Leo Jones.... Thanks Leo!

PS, ignore the feet
Attached Images
File Type: jpg zslide and tube.jpg (62.0 KB, 2391 views)
File Type: jpg zslide.jpg (34.9 KB, 2385 views)
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  #4  
Old Wed 18 November 2009, 20:11
salewis
Just call me: Stan #67
 
Littleton, NC
United States of America
New string (or is it thread) ;-)

My Buddy and I are planning on making a cabinet to house the pc and possibly the control panel/box as others have...

Here's the twist, we'd like to be able to disconnect the pc/control panel cabinet without having to undo/redo bunches of wires and also save on the $$ flex wire (no need to have that from the control panel to the subpanel on the MM).

I have looked at the Amp/Tyco CPC connectors but seem not to find what I'm looking for....

One connector for the steppers (4wire plus shield x 4 = 20 contacts rated at 6a)

One connector for AC router and estop circuits - 3wire plus shield (3-4 contacts w/ 16a rating) and 2 wire plus shield (3 contacts rated at 1A)

One connector for control cable (8 wire plus shield = 9 contacts rated 1a)

any thoughts or other posts to direct me to?
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  #5  
Old Thu 19 November 2009, 07:34
bradm
Just call me: Brad #10
 
Somerville(MA)
United States of America
Good connectors are expensive! How often do you plan to disconnect? It may well be that terminal strips inside your control box are actually a reasonable match. Or having the control box move with the machine with disconnects for the power and the computer is more cost effective.

You may find that (4) 4-pin + shield connectors for the steppers is a lot easier and cheaper than a single unified connector.

I would keep the router connection separate from everything else, and since it's legitimately a switched standard power circuit, use the standard edison connectors.

Do you really need 1A contacts on the control cable?

For a budget friendly approach, perhaps a browse through a catalog like http://mouser.com/Interconnects/ will help you narrow in on what you need.

If you want a gold-plated (likely literally) option, you'll find connectors matching your specifications above in these lines: http://www.amphenol-socapex.com/html...l-products.htm You might double your electronics budget just buying the connectors, though.

I'm using the DB9s that come with a G540 for motors, an unshielded piece of Cat5 with RJ-45 connectors for control, and a phono plug for E-stop, all of which were household items. My motor and spindle cables are shielded, the rest aren't. I'm not seeing any problems. When I used a router, I used a simple heavy extension cord with edison plugs at each end.

There's some random thoughts for you
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  #6  
Old Thu 19 November 2009, 07:58
jehayes
Just call me: Joe #53
 
Whidbey Island, Washington
United States of America
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradm View Post
I'm using ... an unshielded piece of Cat5 with RJ-45 connectors for control, and a phono plug for E-stop ...
Brad: Can you share a photo of how your are using the Cat5 for the control system? Thanks

Joe
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  #7  
Old Thu 19 November 2009, 08:37
bradm
Just call me: Brad #10
 
Somerville(MA)
United States of America
Sure, when I next get to the shop. For now, here's the quick description: I'm using a standard plastic "new work" box at the end of a short piece of plastic conduit coming out of my control box. That box has a coverplate with an RJ-45 jack in the middle - standard home improvement stuff. Then there's a piece of ethernet cable with a RJ-45 plug on it that runs through my cable chain to a box on the gantry that contains a terminal strip. This splits off into the local Prox sensor, a wire across the gantry to the Prox on the other side, a wire and plate for Z Zero, and another trunk line through the other cable chain to the Ycar. At the Ycar, there is another box and terminal strip to split it for the Y Prox sensor, and any future additions.
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  #8  
Old Thu 19 November 2009, 18:59
salewis
Just call me: Stan #67
 
Littleton, NC
United States of America
We're going to be MEN OF STEEL....

My build partner and I are going to get the steel tomorrow (11/20). Also the bulk of the electronics are here. I did order the wrong stuff (when I get closer I'll post the bom's).

Time to make some dust......sparks.....bloody fingers (nope!).
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  #9  
Old Wed 25 November 2009, 22:51
crashingsucks
Just call me: doc #67
 
NC
United States of America
That would be Manly men of STEEL!!!

that is when my wife says it is ok.....

ps I am the other half of the build, 5 years with CNC stuff, but only in making teeth
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  #10  
Old Tue 01 December 2009, 17:25
chopper
Just call me: chopper
 
Big Lake Minnesota
United States of America
Brad#10,
I see you are using an Ethernet cable for some of the wires on your machine,
I am curious as to how this is holding up, I would think you would have limited
life from that setup since, the Ethernet cable is not designed to flex and move like it will in a cable chain, the wire strands are solid and will not take that kind of continuous movement with out breaking the strands,
//chopper
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  #11  
Old Tue 01 December 2009, 17:35
bradm
Just call me: Brad #10
 
Somerville(MA)
United States of America
Chopper, my MM sees limited use, but I agree with your assessment. I'll advise when/if it becomes an issue.
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  #12  
Old Wed 02 December 2009, 03:37
rodom
Just call me: Richard
 
Roanoke Rapids, NC
United States of America
Stan and Ted team,

I'm all logged in, watching intently, and looking forward to your new build. Call if you need anything.

Richard
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  #13  
Old Mon 14 December 2009, 17:52
salewis
Just call me: Stan #67
 
Littleton, NC
United States of America
New update

One steel pile getting smaller - one getting bigger.....

Check out Ted's Rack... Someone had to take the picture...

I guess there's no "skating" around what is coming next....

Seriously, the Harbor Freight Angle grinder only matches up two holes on the skate and enlarging the other holes would end up cutting through the skate on the rear-side.....

So, time to cut-n-grind....

Stan
Attached Images
File Type: jpg cut rack.jpg (36.6 KB, 2011 views)
File Type: jpg teds rack.jpg (37.4 KB, 2005 views)
File Type: jpg small pile.jpg (36.6 KB, 1998 views)
File Type: jpg parts.jpg (41.3 KB, 1992 views)
File Type: jpg biguns.jpg (39.3 KB, 2002 views)
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  #14  
Old Mon 14 December 2009, 19:27
Regnar
Just call me: Russell #69
 
Mobile, Alabama
United States of America
For your single plug for everything you might want to look up ITT Cannon Plugs. I know they come in 31 and many other pin sizes. It will cost you but we use them on our aircraft so they are well worth it. Mouser has a plastic version of the plugs to that are a little cheaper but I cannot find them right now.

For a quick un-official cost a 31 pin size 16 plug will cost you around 125.00 when you are done.
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  #15  
Old Tue 15 December 2009, 03:30
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
I think my memory is still good but that desk you are using looks like a old Triumph. What year is it?
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  #16  
Old Tue 15 December 2009, 04:08
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Could be a MG?

Nah, maybe not

Triumph TR3 looks good
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  #17  
Old Tue 15 December 2009, 04:32
salewis
Just call me: Stan #67
 
Littleton, NC
United States of America
Gerald's right ---- Ted's TR3.... Dang British cars.....

He's the Triumph..... I'm a MG man..

Good news is that the same tools work on both cars....

hammer, hammER, hamMMER, and of course... HAMMER...

when in doubt however you can use a punch....
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  #18  
Old Tue 15 December 2009, 06:57
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
I had a 62 MG Midget. Great little car. I had more fun driving that thing. I put a set of air horns on it and it kept the trucks from driving me off the road.
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  #19  
Old Tue 15 December 2009, 20:57
crashingsucks
Just call me: doc #67
 
NC
United States of America
Yes it is a 1961 TR3, notice the bonnet (hood in the states) it is in the normal condition----UP!!! I am rebuilding the carbs. It does make a good place to rest our build instructions!!!
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  #20  
Old Tue 15 December 2009, 23:26
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Are they SU carbs with needles? With dashpots and oil?
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  #21  
Old Wed 16 December 2009, 04:18
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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For some reasons, it appears to me that you seem to have more potential fun with the other toys ( Plane, Tractor, Vtt & the Jeep) then the Britt dust buster
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  #22  
Old Wed 16 December 2009, 04:54
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Robert,

Lack of appreciation for the run of an old sports car!!!???
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  #23  
Old Wed 16 December 2009, 08:17
crashingsucks
Just call me: doc #67
 
NC
United States of America
Yes the carbs are old SU's, the cork gets dry and they leak gas, right over the hot headers. Not much drive (yes pun) to fix her right now, little to cold for riding around. I fixed old british cars for a living, then found out I needed a real job to support that habit so I went to dental school.

Last edited by crashingsucks; Wed 16 December 2009 at 08:20..
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  #24  
Old Wed 16 December 2009, 10:55
Claudiu
Just call me: Claus #43
 
Arad
Romania
Yet another dentist with a MM. We just need to find some big teeth to use this machine in our job....
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  #25  
Old Thu 17 December 2009, 07:17
salewis
Just call me: Stan #67
 
Littleton, NC
United States of America
You should see two things.....

1) his other CNC machine - really it makes teeth (crowns)....

2) my "desk". talk about really not appreciating a run of an old sports car. Ted can attest to my complete disdain of my '64 MGB. Just try to get it out of my hands ;-) When I got it the previous owner used it as a feed bowl for cats (it had fish heads in it). Me, I use it to hold much more useful junk.

One day.... One day... I'll get a "round tuit" and restore it. I get a Moss Motors catalog every now and then and dream.....

First the MM, then the other projects, then the honey-dos, then the MGB.

NOW I'M DEPRESSED....
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  #26  
Old Thu 17 December 2009, 09:08
crashingsucks
Just call me: doc #67
 
NC
United States of America
It is ok about the MG Stan, just sit in it and make motor sounds!!!
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  #27  
Old Thu 17 December 2009, 18:20
rodom
Just call me: Richard
 
Roanoke Rapids, NC
United States of America
You guys need an MG and TR3 pak for your R/C flight simulators so you can drive/burn rubber/race with these things on the runways.....

Thanks for the Mach3 help today Stan.

rodom
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  #28  
Old Fri 18 December 2009, 04:43
salewis
Just call me: Stan #67
 
Littleton, NC
United States of America
I thought I would sit in it and make GENUINE BRITISH CAR sounds....

sounds like clunk, sputter, cough, rrrrr, boom

That is better than GENUINE BRITISH CAR OWNER sounds.....

Stan
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  #29  
Old Fri 18 December 2009, 04:53
Besser
Just call me: Besser
 
Vic
Australia
Stan for the connections I have used Auto trailor plugs, they come in 7 pin config and are cheap, durable and plenty of current capability. http://www.spinnythings.com.au/ page 58 of catalog has the plugs. They are also very available here so I can connect the control box up to the mill or lathe just by unplugging and replugging.
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  #30  
Old Sat 19 December 2009, 05:58
salewis
Just call me: Stan #67
 
Littleton, NC
United States of America
what about a way to keep the trailer connector from disconnecting?
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