Work Horse Rebuild - Lac-Brome, Quebec, CA

[Kobus_Joubert]

Using that wooden box ...will it not act as an amplifier ? Acoustic Guitar effect. I would make sure everything is screwed down tight....no movement.

[riesvantwisk]

Ken,

you are absolutely right about the transformer. It's humming because it consumes energy. it's usually a sign of a bad made transformer, they are not well vacuum sealed or bad wiring.

Be carefull also with them, since you don't know the core temperature when they get warm/hot it's hard to tell if they are starting to short circuit. Due to the nature of a transformer it's even possible that the high voltage can enter low voltage destroying your low voltage circuits.

The hummmmmmm you are can come from various parts of a circuit, so for the next couple of hours and days, check the transformers temperature very often. They are allowed to get hand warm, but not hot. If they get hot, then replace it A good test is to turn on the transformer with a low load (5-10% of max rated) like a big resistor of the right resistance and see if it get's hot..

Ries

[Gerald D]

A toroid transformer should not make a noise - they are absolutely silent to my ears.

[Gerald D]

Okay, they can make noise, see http://www.plitron.com/lono.asp

[KenC]

Kobus, any rigid board will turn into a sound board, metal plates are the worst. If you insist on using this singing transformer, the normal way to dampen the sound is to mount the transformer on vibration absorbing mount, e.g rubber gasket/wadher for the mounting screw.. etc. & double sided tape works pretty well as a quick fix.

[Robert M]

Guys, thanks for your inputs.
I read & heard both comments.
Meaning, some say it is to expect, some say it should not happen ?
I’ve monitored the heat part manually, but by just touching by hand frequently, it seems fairly low, maybe a few deg higher then room temps. No concern at this point I’d say !?!
Where it gets me, is, it’s it occurrence, it’s inconsistent and irregular.
Some time it happens at start up, sometime not.
Some other times it rises after a few minutes of efforts/motor moving, and some other times it just starts when all is on but no motors are moving, meaning the beast is standing still power on, not moving after some time while waiting for me to transfer a new G-code!
One thing certain, Nothing to do with the way it is mounted….on a steel mount, fixed on a steel backing plate, screwed on a wood panel no box yet, meaning it is still not in a closed box !!

BTW, it’s a Hammond, maybe it not the ultimate best, but known to be a descent & honest brand !
Called tech and a rep should call back to explore possible fixes !
Will see…. ?
Later...

[KenC]

Those hum are are cause by trensient state, due to flawed manufacturing.
There are no possible fix that you can do,, rubber mount, damping coat... etc etc won't solve the real problem, just sweeping the dirt under the carpet... I would strongly suggest getting them replaced.
Hammond do have QC problem... thats why they are comparatively economical... BUT they are reputable.

[quadtech]

I found this quote elsewhere -

"If you are experiencing mechanical hum from your
transformer, it is often caused by the presence of
DC on the line. Usually this comes from some appliance
using current asymmetrically, such as a lamp dimmer.

The hum comes usually from toroidal transformers, which
saturate easily with DC, and when they recover, they
draw an extra pulse of current, causing the noise."

Note also that transformers can hum if they get heavily loaded.

Also see this -

http://sound.westhost.com/articles/xfmr-dc.htm

[cleyte]

Hi Robert,

I was looking for suitable pushbutton boxes but was not happy with those at
Factorymation. I would like blank boxes (no holes) and larger than what is available there. Gerald has indicated that a larger box would be better for the gantry.

Where did you purchase the pushbutton boxes on your machine?

BTW: I purchased some of my electrical parts (cord grips, heat shrink, etc) at www.elecdirect.com in Missisauga, Ont but their boxes are their boxes are quite pricey.

Clayton

[cleyte]

Thanks for the reply Robert.

BTW, how is the part you designed for the spring on the z-slide working out? Is it a part that you would recommend to others?

Clayton

[Robert M]

Clayton, either the original spring retainer or my alternative design, it’s a static part that serve only to hold one end of a spring.
I design it only to explore another alternative design that may pleases others eye or taste, cause as far as what it is suppose to do, both do what it is suppose to do. It doesn’t belong to me to recommend this one over the original.
Hope this helps clearing this. Amicalement, Robert

[Robert M]

This message came to me via a PM.
I prefer answering it here as this can be shared with other on what I consider as a not so personal !

G'day Robert,
I'm just starting out on my MechMate journey (twin builds with a mate) and one of the big things is geared vs belt. At this stage I'm thinking belt drive. It should be a little cheaper and I should get good results with it. I'm mainly going to cut ply and MDF with occational Aluminium.

I want to use the G540 but I may have to go with the G203V's to get them to work with the cheaper motors.

How do you find your belt reductions? Have you tried or seen the geared cuts? How do you think they compare?

I was wondering if you did your modeling of the belt reduction in SolidWorks? If so would it be possible to get a copy of the files. I would like to make up a set for my MM.

Thanks,
Colin.

Hi Colin,
Hopping this is not offensive for you !
First of, best of “fun” with your mate & your "twin builds" !
Anytime you go belt reduction, it’s synonym with better resolution and less backlash.

As for my case, I’m not yet at the belt reduction stage as I still need to “iron-out” what I’m already with. At this stage, I’m running direct drive w/20T pinions.
Intend to cut my own aluminum plates for this trany making ( belt drive assy).
My plans are not on SolidWorks, but I can share what I have in IGUS and / or others I can’t remember at this time witch, but will make sure I’ll give you some which SolisWorks has no trouble to open!
I’m out of town for now, but when I get back & time permits, I’ll post my drawing for you & other that may be interested.
Hop this can help ?

Amicalement, Robert

[alexguan]

thanks for the Beast, is a phenomenal job, I think would indicate that future accurate measurements used to it, I'm trying to start the construction of one, and lower levels of the Bureau of Gerald, I would like to have their own to compare and see materials which make it possible for me in my city, thank you and a successful future for you and well being of your family receive. excuse my English.

[Robert M]

Dear Alex,
I’ve return a replied from your PM, but here again, I thank you for your kind words but also must admit I’m not quite certain what you’re asking as I have difficulties to read & understand your text ......

[Robert M]

Hi guys !
Yesterday had my first true « panel » job for the new beast !
All in MDF….just hate this stuff…..
Although this was a great experience and superb learning ground for me….
Lot of little fixes and “learning on Mach’’ happened !
But all & all, I can see a little more “yey level” with some of you about this panel processing with our beast !

Few mistakes and QUESTIONS I’m looking for answers & fixes !!
A – from this pic,

P6150018_rs.jpg

you can see a nice gouge in the panel !!...this happened after I tried to restart a routine from a specific line ( Start from here button on Mach3 screen).
All went fine, but the “stupid” routine start from here, lowers the Z-axis to 0.000 instead of leaving the posted G-code retract & clearance hight !?!?!
Anyone knows how to fix this BUG !!!

B – still without a trany, working with a direct drive motor & 20T pinion, my resolution looks…well OK !!
BUT…. The “tolerance of some measurements are….well, not certain if this is acceptable…

P6150016_rs.jpg

This photo shows a pieces that should be 2.0inch….a diff of not a lot, only 0.010’’….Question is, why and can this tolerance expect to be “tighter” with a trany !?!

All & all as a 1st cutting job, it was a good thing on MDF as it is going to be opaque painted, so gouge & nicks will never show AND I’ve learned A LOT !!

Great !!
Thanks for any response on my questions….Later !
Amicalement, Robert

ps... GOT this message while uploading my pics :
P6150013_rs.jpg:
The Dimension limits for this filetype are 650 x 600. We were unable to resize your file so you will need to do so manually and upload it again. Your file is currently 469 x 625. -> ??? any cense to this !!??
Upload_error.jpg

[domino11]

Robert, on the picture problem, the second dimension of your picture is 25 pixels larger than the forum limit. Both dimensions have to be within spec for it to upload.

[bradm]

Robert, you're going to need to do a little troubleshooting to work out why that piece is 0.010" too small. Here's some possibilities for you:

1) The multipliers in your software are off by a little. If a 4.0 inch piece is off by 0.020" and an 8.0 inch piece if off by 0.04", etc then you need to tweak these numbers.

2) The bit is chattering/wandering a little bit. Your cut quality looks good, so this seems less likely, but it could be caused by the bit itself, or the router/spindle, or some other aspect of the mechanicals that is just a little loose.

[Gerald D]

Before changing anything in Mach, try cutting that piece by going in two different directions, go clockwise and anti-clockwise around it. Then compare the dimensions. Normally the clockwise is a bit bigger than anti-clockwise. This is because the cutter pulls to the left side as you push it away from you (you know this from hand-routing) and every little bit of mechanical stiffness and backlash is tested by the sideways force.

Regarding the gouge, just accept that it is normal! (and correct):
If you tell the cutter to go to the bottom of a hole, it will go straight there, taking the shortest path possible. It does not have the brains to go horizontally to the top of the hole and then vertically down. So, before you say "start from here", go back one or two more steps to be sure that the next step is still on top of the wood and not down in a hole or valley.

[Robert M]

Thank you all your replys.
Gerald,
So, before you say "start from here", go back one or two more steps to be sure that the next step is still on top of the wood and not down in a hole or valley.
What I was assuming to be, but again, I just hate to assume.... as maybe they could have been some written routine somewhere, somehow…to avoid this…!!
I can’t tell ( so I should shush…but) where, but I have a hunch I’v read some time ago on one of these other forum ( Machsupport forum or Mach3 on Yahoo… ) someone complaining about this and another user found a solution for it. What solution, can’t remember, but some sort of written vb or some sort go-around this issue is out there !!
For now, I found the hard way what you are suggesting.
Sometime it came handy to use the reverse run, with the Z axis & router off to find the proper line with this Z-up !

Clockwise Anti-clockwise…..have totally forgot about this, thanks, will defiantly try and record the variable !

Heath….. I can only add….Dooooo !! I should know much better !

Amicalement, Robert

[WFY]

Hi Robert,
I had some similar discrepancies and found that setting the steps per unit can be done from the settings screen "AXIS CALIBRATION". I tried doing this with a dial indicator that has 1" of travel. This did not work well. The error margin for setting using a small sample for a movement on the x axis 0 to 121" had the actual travel 5/8" too long (121.625"). I found that using a spot laser fastened to the spindle and a tape measure for the axis length and telling the axis to travel 121" and entering the reading where the spot laser stopped on the tape measure I got a very exact distance. It occurred to me that Mach3 sets a rate of travel and the larger distance of sampling the more accurate the steps per unit become. I have checked a few smaller parts an they are around .002 to .004" out. This is probably due to the lost motion in the PK296's gear box.
I hope this helps you out.
Buzz #60

[Kobus_Joubert]

I agree with Buzz. Using the Mach3 Calibration on a longer distance worked for me.

Something I have noticed as well. If you setup your piece in your CAM program to be 100mm x 100mm, you generate the g-code and when Mach executes it, I noticed that X goes to 99.899 for example....not to the full 100 as it should be. Any idea on this ?

[Claudiu]

Hi Robert,

I haven´t been on the forum in a regular bases lately due to my my real life job, but I´ve read your post and wanted also to send you my greetings and of course congrats for the finishing of your MM. I´m really happy to see you have managed to come to this stage.You did a great job. I love the looks of your table and especially of the control box. I wish you lots of fun with it cutting through al kind of materials. I´ll be back soon with some updates on my work when I find some time to post. Greetings to all MM`ers.

[fanefane]

Robert
Nice work, congratulations!
How connected stepper motors indexer to PMDX122 board.
Connection to pin14, pin16, pin17.

[Robert M]

Hi guys
Thanks again for these nice concern & replies on this 0.010” quest!
I’ll defiantly need to conduct various test. All your suggestions are to take in account and l’m looking forward testing them & reply my findings on those….once I’ll be over the next few weeks of “crunch time” as I’m running way behind promises schedule deliveries

TO STEPHANE : I have not finalize & install my indexer as of yet….
The Geckodrive for this is connected but not in operation yet, to 14, 16 & com on the GRD of J8

Later, Robert

[sailfl]

Robert,

Maybe I missed some thing. I use Run From Here all the time in Mach. I usually have moved the router to another place to look at the work. So the bit is not touching the table but higher. I pick the line I want and click on Run From Here and hit start. The router is moved to the location of the line. It then wants me to click on start again but this works. I have not had any problems. I don't think there is a software problem.

Try it.

[domino11]

Robert,
Was just wondering where the logos are? You are cutting, a serial number should be a piece of cake! Sorry for the poke.

[Robert M]

I don’t mind being poke.....It’s all OK w/me
Been cutting since mid spring, but still learning
Proud member & supporter..... but one of those who is in no rush for a “number”.
Waiting to move there BEAST to its new location....maybe next mid-spring if renovations are on schedule…..and like many remodeling / construction….. delays are to be expected ?!?
I know a thing or two about delays.... this beast was originally thought to be completed back in spring 2008

Talking about poking…. How about you buddy…. When are we going to see you starting one

Amicalement

[domino11]

Its coming Robert! Almost finished building the garage the MM will be in, though work this year has slowed my starting. 70 to 80 hour weeks just do not leave much time for extra projects.

[Robert M]

Hi all....
Some latest work done by the beast

P8240015rs.jpg

P8250019rs.JPG

P8250020rs.jpg

Thanks to this nesting game, shop is more than ever in need to move to my new location....

----------------

In reference to my quest for cutting cross grain Baltic birch ply, here are some pics comparing as per trying Mike #27 suggestion (a ccw re-machining )

( look at the left panel)

PA230006rs.jpg

PA230007rs.jpg

Left one is re-machined......no "fuzz"

PA230008rs.jpg

Here a look at the flip side of the cuts ! ( upper left one is the only one re-machining )!


Enjoy a nice day !

[normand blais]

He Bob looking great ,so nice to see .Any problem flattening the valley and keeping it flat ?It sure is a great idea.What are you using for holding your wood? a pin nailler what feed speed cutter you use. Are you happy with the precision you got ,or you still trying to improve it some more. Got a new dust collector specialy for the beast? Bob what cad cam you use
Time to move , to your bigger place soon . What number are you waiting for again?