WAITING OVER! #15 - Chicago, IL - Page 5

gmessler · #**121** Mon 10 November 2008, 09:25

Does this count for dust on the machine?

domino11 · #**122** Mon 10 November 2008, 09:34

Greg,
But did the machine make the dust? The telltale jigsaw should be removed from the picture.

Gerald D · #**123** Mon 10 November 2008, 09:41

javeria · #**124** Mon 10 November 2008, 09:47

Greg U got G' this time -

domino11 · #**125** Mon 10 November 2008, 13:19

Sorry Greg,
Couldnt resist the temptation.

gmessler · #**126** Mon 10 November 2008, 14:18

No problem Heath.

Things were a little slow on the forum lately so I thought I'd stir the pot a little.

I wish it were the machine making that dust. I cursed myself the whole time for not having the machine finished. Hand cutting an entire 4x8 sheet full of small parts. Guess it will help put a little fire under my backside.

Kobus_Joubert · #**127** Mon 10 November 2008, 21:29

At least the table is working....just like mine..

sailfl · #**128** Tue 11 November 2008, 01:24

Greg M

You might have gotten away with it if you had used a router instead of the jig saw. Gerald might have missed it.

Gerald D · #**129** Tue 11 November 2008, 03:11

Nah, the sawdust shouldn't only be on one end of the table and the off-cuts should be joined together.

gmessler · #**130** Tue 25 November 2008, 23:01

I had a chance to get a little work done the past several nights.

I got the table level and square. Drilled and countersunk the bolts holding down the MDF. Installed the cable chains.

Alan_c · #**131** Wed 26 November 2008, 00:21

Nice!, interesting tables and kit in the background too

domino11 · #**132** Wed 26 November 2008, 07:36

Greg,
OOOOH, nice projector! That will make a really nice movie room.

The Mechmate is looking good too!

gmessler · #**133** Wed 26 November 2008, 09:25

Thanks Alan & Heath,

hmmm www.allen-heath.com....nice mixing consoles (sorry about the bad humor)

Too bad the projector is for a customer.

The carts are a design I patented earlier this year. They are the first six, almost ready to be delivered to a customer.

The bases are what I cut out BY HAND

in my first sawdust photos.

gmessler · #**134** Wed 26 November 2008, 09:56

I think it's funny the way the title to the threads change as progress is made.

Forgot to paint the control box while it was warm. It's warmer today at 40 degrees so I may fire up the heater in the tent and paint. The alternative....overspray all over everything in the garage.

Shooting for "12"

domino11 · #**135** Wed 26 November 2008, 12:29

Alan,
Looks like our little secret is out.

I wish I owned a company like that one.

Greg,
I understand your dilema with the cold, its about 37 today and going down to 30 tonight. Gets harder and harder to do stuff if your garage is unheated.

gmessler · #**136** Mon 01 December 2008, 01:05

Made some progress again today.

Pulled the control and prox wires, motor wires, attached the motors, mounted the button boxes, and mounted the control box to the machine. I know it's not the best location to mount the control box. With the limited space in my garage it's the best I can do.

I still need to pull a router power wire. I haven't purchased it yet. I'm sure 12ga would be best but I can get 14ga for real cheap. What are your thoughts?

J.R. Hatcher · #**137** Mon 01 December 2008, 06:02

Greg I found the cheapest way to buy wire like that is to buy a good grade of drop cord from Lowe's, When I cut the ends off I don't need I leave a 2' pigtail for some later project. It's cheaper than buying the bulk wire.

domino11 · #**138** Mon 01 December 2008, 08:56

Greg,
You can use the 14 Gauge wire where you have space or flex issues (or have a cheap cord available) and use #12 for the longer runs from machine to panel. At the current the router uses, the overall length and gauge of the wire will be the determining factor in the voltage drop. Dont forget the lines in your shop are probably still #14 unless you are running a dedicated circuit for it. Then use a larger gauge wire for the machine like #12.

gmessler · #**139** Thu 04 December 2008, 10:24

Thanks J.R. and Heath,

Actually I found some shielded 12ga cable for cheap. It should be here Friday.

Here are some pics of work in process.

Gerald D · #**140** Thu 04 December 2008, 10:32

Looks good Greg!

I suppose your wife is pushing you to cut some yard ornaments for Xmas?

YRD · #**141** Thu 04 December 2008, 11:06

Fantastic

jhiggins7 · #**142** Thu 04 December 2008, 16:40

Greg,

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmessler

Thanks J.R. and Heath,

Actually I found some shielded 12ga cable for cheap. It should be here Friday...

Would you mind sharing your source for the "shielded 12 ga cable for cheap?"

Regards,
John

smreish · #**143** Thu 04 December 2008, 19:12

Greg,
Getting close....very close! Are you expecting a MM for xmas?

gmessler · #**144** Thu 04 December 2008, 23:17

Thanks guys,

Sean, I'm hoping to be cutting by next weekend on a bouncing baby "number 12" Mechmate.

John, I'll have to let you know about the cable. My source is a great resource that Sean posted quite a while back, Skycraftsurplus.com. It's a Milspec cable at .35/ft but I'm not sure how flexible it's going to be. It should arrive Friday sometime. I did find some 14ga shielded on ebay. The jacket is not very flexible though I think it would work in a pinch. It was only $8 / 25'.

I'm having some trouble with understanding the e-stop / stop / start button wiring though.

Using two wires for each of the buttons works out fine with one wire left over in the 7 conductor cable. Although I've been reading that some changes have been made and it is recommended to run two circuits to the e-stop. One 120v to break the contactor and a low voltage one to the breakout board. My concern is that you'd be running a 120v circuit inside the same cable as the low voltage circuit. Plus I'd be one wire short then.

I'm curious what others have done.

Any recommendations would be appreciated.

gmessler · #**145** Thu 04 December 2008, 23:21

Hey J.R.,

I took your recommendation and gave it a shot tonight welding up that countersunk hole in the Z-slide. It worked out fair.

I'll post some pics tomorrow.

Gerald D · #**146** Fri 05 December 2008, 00:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmessler

. . . My concern is that you'd be running a 120v circuit inside the same cable as the low voltage circuit.

You must definitely NOT run the 120V inside the same cable as the signals. The 120V e-stop circuit sits in a cable all by itself, exactly for the reason that it will generate noise.

jhiggins7 · #**147** Fri 05 December 2008, 05:17

Greg,

Thanks for the response.

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmessler

...
John, I'll have to let you know about the cable. My source is a great resource that Sean posted quite a while back, Skycraftsurplus.com. It's a Milspec cable at .35/ft but I'm not sure how flexible it's going to be. It should arrive Friday sometime. ...

So, I will await your conclusions about the flexibility of the 12 ga. I'm probably a couple of months away from needing that cable.

I was aware of the Ebay shielded 14 ga. I bought 100' of that supplier's dual shielded 4 conductor for the stepper motor runs based on JR's experience. I would prefer to run 12 ga for the router. My shop is wired with 12 ga, and I'd rather not drop down to 14 ga, although that is an option. Flexibility and cost figure into this decision.

Regards,
John

gmessler · #**148** Sat 06 December 2008, 00:40

Sorry guys...no pics yet.

I spent the last ??? hours working on my wiring diagram.

Now I'll submit myself to the mercy of the experts and attach my drawing. Actually a reworked version of Gerald's work...Thanks Gerald.

If anybody can find any errors please let me know.

Be gentle

bradm · #**149** Sat 06 December 2008, 08:11

I see that the 12V DC supply at the bottom for your LV EStop is powered all the time, rather than switched by the contactor. Is there a reason for that?

Gerald D · #**150** Sat 06 December 2008, 08:25

Mains E-stop must not share cable with 5V signals:

Clipboard01.gif