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  #31  
Old Sat 04 February 2012, 21:54
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
....I love it when people follow directions! Good work - nicely done.
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  #32  
Old Mon 13 February 2012, 20:18
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
I SHOULD have the base table final welded and upright by the end of the week.

So now I'm exploring PMDX numbers like mad, trying to decide how to best build a control box that will allow me to use the proxies I already have, and be able to add a laser pointer, touch off plate, spindle control, dust collection switching, etc. in the future without having to backtrack.
Then there is that whole smoothstepper question.....
If anyone has any insite to a plan of attack, I'd be very appreciative.
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  #33  
Old Mon 13 February 2012, 23:56
baseball43v3r
Just call me: John #96
 
Glendora (California)
United States of America
go for the PMDX 126, plenty of inputs, and if you decide you have more then that can handle, you can add a second 126 to the mix. but out of all the boards, that has the most inputs and outputs (i think).
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  #34  
Old Tue 14 February 2012, 06:37
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
I agree with John. go the 126 route and if your using Geckos use the 133 or 134 boards to reduce wire clutter in the cabinet.
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  #35  
Old Tue 14 February 2012, 09:20
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
That is the way I was leaning.
Thanks for the replies.

Anyone have an opinion on using these type connectors to connect to the control box?

http://www.pmdx.com/4Pin-PlugAndJack
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  #36  
Old Tue 14 February 2012, 11:43
WTI
Just call me: James
 
Detroit (Michigan)
United States of America
Quote:
Originally Posted by darren salyer View Post
That is the way I was leaning.
Thanks for the replies.

Anyone have an opinion on using these type connectors to connect to the control box?

http://www.pmdx.com/4Pin-PlugAndJack
I used them, but it is better to pay $1.69:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/270712985784...84.m1497.l2649


Than it is to pay $6.00.

Get a few extra for later servicing.
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  #37  
Old Tue 14 February 2012, 11:51
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
You can also find the Paralell card he sells here for cheaper too.

Newegg parallel card

Last edited by domino11; Tue 14 February 2012 at 21:23..
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  #38  
Old Tue 14 February 2012, 20:13
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
Man I learn something new everyday.

Hours spent reading threads and seeing comments about XLR connectors, and I STILL didn't make the connection that those are XLR connectors.

Thanks for the link.

D.
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  #39  
Old Tue 14 February 2012, 20:19
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
BTW, got a couple sheets of 3/4" x 5 x 12 MDF headed this way....
Anyone wanns help unload it?
My back hurts already...
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  #40  
Old Tue 14 February 2012, 21:26
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Actually, the ebay connectors referenced in the above posts are not really xlr connectors. They will work fine but are not interchangeable with real xlr connectors as far as I know.
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  #41  
Old Tue 14 February 2012, 21:30
WTI
Just call me: James
 
Detroit (Michigan)
United States of America
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XLR_connector
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  #42  
Old Wed 15 February 2012, 05:41
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
http://www.markertek.com/Cables/Audi...FX.xhtml?NC4MX

Markertek is a very reliable source with pretty fair pricing. Customer service is awesome.

These Nuetrik 4 pins are the industry standard. They are also only one of the few xlr that are rate for the current and voltage the stepper motors require.

Myself, JR and a few other used them.

Good luck.
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  #43  
Old Wed 15 February 2012, 07:19
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
Oh Suuuuure, everyone jumps in with more connector info, but nobody offers to help unload the MDF????

Just kidding, thanks for all the info. Spending a few bucks more on good components to have a reliable machine is well worth it in my mind.

I don't mind doing something, but I ABSOLUTELY HATE having to redo something after the fact.

Table should be upright by the end of the week.....probably massively overkill too.lol
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  #44  
Old Wed 15 February 2012, 08:57
WTI
Just call me: James
 
Detroit (Michigan)
United States of America
Nuetrik is a great brand for connectors.

Besides XLR, you can also look at the SpeakON style connectors. They come in 2, 4 and 8 conductor layouts. These are made for high current usage and basically unbreakable.

You might even use both styles to make it hard to mix up motors, sensors, spindles....
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  #45  
Old Wed 15 February 2012, 18:20
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
Table is turned over onto its six legs....Now if I could only find my camera.....
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  #46  
Old Wed 15 February 2012, 18:24
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
...it's under the table! LOL. Great accomplishment - keep up the great work (we are watching!)
What I really want is a picture of you moving the MDF. If I recall when I took care of my MDF move, I actually put 2 trash cans on furniture dollies to move at the same level as the truck bed, to the machine bed of the MM to keep the lifting to a min. That is some HEAVY stuff. Be careful.
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  #47  
Old Wed 15 February 2012, 19:28
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
Going to order cable chain from Mcmaster tomorrow (4516T22)

The formula I found is 1/2 the axis length + 2" + (radius of chain x pi) +1 link..

so for a 5x12 I need:
X axis = 144"/2=72"+2"= 74"+ (12.377")= 86.377"
Y axis = 60"/2=30+2=32"+ (12.377")= 44.377"
86.377+44.377= 130.754"
Less than (2) 6' lengths.
Plus end brackets...

My question is: can what I take off the Y axis be added to the X axis, or will that not work?
Is it like a bicycle chain where you need a "master link" ?
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  #48  
Old Wed 15 February 2012, 19:58
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
The IGUS energy chain is modular. Each link snaps into the next very simply. The end links are just the same. Just make sure you snap in the proper direction, they are "handed" links.

If you order another 12"-18" and 2 ends you can also do your z-axis!

Good luck.
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  #49  
Old Thu 16 February 2012, 08:41
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
Found the camera....luckily not under the table.
My wife wasn't happy when I told her I flipped this over by myself using a floorjack and chain hoist...... probably good that I don't have any pictures of that.
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  #50  
Old Thu 16 February 2012, 18:08
Darin
Just call me: Darin #93
 
Clarksville, TN
United States of America
It looks awesome Darren!

I work by myself a lot. I know what its like. Sometimes things are safer than they seem when there's only one person to worry about getting hurt. I find I can do a lot more than I thought, very safely, if I just go slow and plan every move and back away and look everything over a lot. I would have turned it over by myself to and also would have been fussed at
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  #51  
Old Thu 16 February 2012, 18:34
TechGladiator
Just call me: Miguel #94
 
Randolph, NJ
United States of America
@Darren: Do you think those beams will hold that table? !!!. Kidding, that looks great. Looks like it's coming together nicely... Good Job!..
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  #52  
Old Thu 16 February 2012, 18:38
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
LOL, like I said, massive overkill.
I suffer from a disease called "while I'm at it" that always makes things escalate...

I can tell you, it is rock solid.
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  #53  
Old Thu 16 February 2012, 18:41
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
I'm waitin for someone to use an electric pallet jack setup on one of these to move it around !!! Nice looking table !!!
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  #54  
Old Fri 17 February 2012, 04:57
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Looks about right to me. Nice work.
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  #55  
Old Fri 17 February 2012, 06:56
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Awsome looking table!!!
That is a sturdy table there! You will be rewarded for the extra miles on the additional weight & diagonal braces.
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  #56  
Old Wed 29 February 2012, 11:37
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
Got some used cable chain and installed it, and it seems to sag a bunch.
Does this look normal, or am I doing something wrong?
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  #57  
Old Wed 29 February 2012, 12:01
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
As you said, that cable chain has seen a lot of use and is a bit worn, but still functional for your application. Check that the links are still firmly attached to each other by jerking it around a bit - that is the most important thing. If it droops so far down that it slides on the lower part of the chain you will have to check that it doesn't snag. (On very long machines it is normal for the chain to drag over the fixed part)
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  #58  
Old Fri 09 March 2012, 13:32
1planeguy
Just call me: 1planeguy
 
Smiths, Al.
United States of America
Darren...have to say that is a beast...wow...

I knew the 12' long would add some "bulk"...didn't think that much :-)
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  #59  
Old Fri 09 March 2012, 14:05
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
Thanks...I think....
Heres how it looks today with a 61"x145" MDF spoilboard
Just painted it yesterday.
Hope to get some re-assembly done this weekend..

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  #60  
Old Fri 09 March 2012, 14:10
1planeguy
Just call me: 1planeguy
 
Smiths, Al.
United States of America
VERY nice...
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