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  #271  
Old Wed 01 June 2011, 10:28
Regnar
Just call me: Russell #69
 
Mobile, Alabama
United States of America
Gerald I have been meaning to flip that thing for months now. Finally got of my lazy butt and did it.

Ross, I wanted to let you know that I ditched the Wing Nuts for Lever Handles. The picture on the site is not of the right kind. Instead of a thread stud I picked up ones with nuts. The handles disengage the nut and to turn them you have to push in. This allows you to tighten or loosen them with out having to spin them all the way around. Great feature as the Y car gets in the way.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PMAKA=990-3248

I will also mentioned that I am getting tired of running over the the Dust Collector and turning it on. So I ordered a Solid State relay from Factorymation. This one to be specific.

http://www.factorymation.com/s.nl/it...=2&category=99

My plan is to mount this near the wall plug for dust collector. I dont have anymore room in the control box and the dust collector is on its own circuit. I will have a small enclosure to put it in so no dust will get to it. Will post pictures of it when I am done. Hopefully this weekend.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Photo Jun 01, 11 49 37 AM (Custom).jpg (45.2 KB, 1817 views)
File Type: jpg Photo Jun 01, 11 49 25 AM (Custom).jpg (39.7 KB, 1814 views)

Last edited by Regnar; Wed 01 June 2011 at 10:54.. Reason: Pictures
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  #272  
Old Wed 01 June 2011, 11:19
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Russel,
you can do without the SSR & use a magnetic coil contactor for the dust collector, & wire a remote push button to active the contactor. Easy, economical, reliable & conventional.
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  #273  
Old Wed 01 June 2011, 11:45
Regnar
Just call me: Russell #69
 
Mobile, Alabama
United States of America
Ken,

That is plan B if this doesnt work out in my favor. I dont think I will have much trouble as I am using a SSR for the router and it works great.

I should have mentioned that I am really lazy. I wanted the software to turn on/off the collector and to be honest the dust collector is only 4 feet away from the machine.
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  #274  
Old Wed 01 June 2011, 20:59
Surfcnc
Just call me: Ross #74
 
Queensland
Australia
Thanks for the link - my mini lathe has similar adjustment handles as they get in the way too!

Regards
Ross
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  #275  
Old Tue 07 June 2011, 13:11
melissa
Just call me: Melissa #83
 
Brighton (Ontario)
Canada
photo of router in car?

Russell,

Can you post a photo or two of the router mounted in the Y car? I'm curious about the power cable. I have the same router, and the cable runs very close to the opening in the car.

Thanks!
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  #276  
Old Tue 07 June 2011, 19:33
Regnar
Just call me: Russell #69
 
Mobile, Alabama
United States of America
Michel,
All I did was fold over the power cord on top of the router and zip tied the cord through the fan shroud. I will try and get out there to take a photo.
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  #277  
Old Wed 08 June 2011, 06:13
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
...on machine #5, I had the cord on the front, left as you look at the car from o,o. Then folded it back in to the cable chain attached to the z-slide.

Switch was on the right.

*when you have the bearings replaced, which is in about a year of heavy use, you can rotate the rubber strain relief * Experience with the Porter Cable 3.25HP router over the past 5 years!
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  #278  
Old Wed 08 June 2011, 06:38
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
I have the same router and here is the way I have my cable tied down.

It is also easy to remove the height adjustment screw if you want to.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSCN1075.jpg (167.6 KB, 1680 views)
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  #279  
Old Wed 08 June 2011, 18:50
Regnar
Just call me: Russell #69
 
Mobile, Alabama
United States of America
It works. I was able to break away for a few minutes and install the SSR for the dust collector. My plastic airtight box is on back order but this temporary.

Button on the screen will turn on the dust collector and so will a M7 command in the Gcode. I love it. It even shuts off at the end of the program as well.

Here are a few pics. One that was requested of the router and the other of the temp setup of the SSR.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Photo Jun 08, 7 06 46 PM (Custom).jpg (45.8 KB, 1642 views)
File Type: jpg Photo Jun 08, 7 05 29 PM (Custom).jpg (51.6 KB, 1642 views)
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  #280  
Old Fri 17 June 2011, 20:06
Regnar
Just call me: Russell #69
 
Mobile, Alabama
United States of America
After a week of running the machine with the remote dust collector I am happy to report things are working out great. For the money spent it is a nice feature. One thing that I did have to add was a pause in the program at start up. This allowed the dust collector and router to power up to full speed before plunging into the work.

I also tried out some cheap solid carbide endmills from enco. They were the 2 flute upcut 1/4 inch variety. They have been working out nice. I am on sheet number 20 with no noticeable cut difference. There is a difference in cutting between a straight blade and upcut. The upcut is a lot smoother and removes all of the dust in the cut. I notice that I am able to take deeper cuts and the sound that the endmills make is almost like the wood is now screaming from pain

Here is a link to what I purchased if you are interested. Not bad for 8 dollars
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...AKA=TS322-5016
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  #281  
Old Fri 17 June 2011, 21:06
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
Russell,

I will give them a try. It would be nice to find some cheaper bits that works. Thanks
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  #282  
Old Fri 17 June 2011, 21:23
Regnar
Just call me: Russell #69
 
Mobile, Alabama
United States of America
Nils if you dont need them right away, sign up for their email newsletter and they will often give you a promo code free shipping.
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  #283  
Old Fri 17 June 2011, 23:45
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Russel, May I ask what feed & depth of cut? 1/4" bits always break on me... but can't live without them as they are required for tight curbs...
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  #284  
Old Sat 18 June 2011, 07:47
Regnar
Just call me: Russell #69
 
Mobile, Alabama
United States of America
Ken, I am cutting at 300ipm, .375 deep per a pass. My Millwaukee router was set on number 4 so around 18,000 rpm. Material was marine grade baltic birch, which is very nice stuff to work with.


I know the Machine can handle a really big cut. I was planning a tool box lid when the collet must have loosened over time. I usually do this at 600ipm with the router set on 3 and depth of cut is usually around .05 to .1 with a 1/2 endmill. No really big loads here. Well the router bit started to slip down as it was cutting. On a single pass it started out at .1 and by the time it made it to the other end I was cutting .75 . Router didnt like it to much but it did plow straight through it. I now double check the collet nut before I hit start every time now.
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  #285  
Old Sun 19 June 2011, 01:11
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Russel, Thanks. Some how, I can never get this type of speed with this type of depth. I can only safely run at most 2800mm/min (110ipm)at 6mm steps (1/4")... if the material is over 12mm, I'll have to reduce the final step to 3mm or the bits will snap.
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  #286  
Old Sun 19 June 2011, 07:37
Regnar
Just call me: Russell #69
 
Mobile, Alabama
United States of America
Ken have you Trammed your spindle yet? Its not talked about to much here but is a important part of setting up your machine. Your Z axis could also not be square to the table.

You always square you z axis to the table first and then tram your spindle to the table. If either of these are out your are no longer cutting 3mm for you final path but a full depth cut. Spindle speed is also important your are looking for large size chips and not dust.

Link to the procedure if you havent seen it yet http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showt...28&postcount=5

It could also be that your material is not down to the table secure enough. Lately I have been securing with brad nails. This allows me to secure everything that might come loose off the table. I always put them in waste areas and designate that in the cam software with a drilling path to find their locations through the sheet.

Hope this helps.
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  #287  
Old Sun 19 June 2011, 22:11
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
I squared up the spindle (as per Gerald's instructions) when I set up the Z-axis & forget about it after that. I'll take your advise & carry out routine periodic checks in the future.
One of the reason for the vacuum holddown was suspected moving parts during cutting since I've commissioned my vacuum hold down, things do get better but it is still too early to come to a solid conclusion.
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  #288  
Old Tue 22 November 2011, 12:51
Regnar
Just call me: Russell #69
 
Mobile, Alabama
United States of America
Figured it was time for an update. The machine is on vacation for the time being. Living almost 600 miles away puts a damper on turn around times. It does mean that when I do get home I get to cut my own projects out and have some fun.

These speakers are the latest project and for my first go I think they came out sounding great. Lower levels are on par with all my surrounds but once you start cranking it up you notice the difference real fast.

Here is all the info on the speakers and the design....

http://www.parts-express.com/project...trix/index.cfm

http://speakerdesignworks.com/Tritrix_pg_1.html

Next time I am home I will need to Veneer them as SWMBO doesnt like a MDF finish.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Photo Nov 22, 8 56 24 AM (Custom).jpg (37.7 KB, 1293 views)
File Type: jpg Photo Nov 22, 8 56 40 AM (Custom).jpg (40.0 KB, 1291 views)
File Type: jpg Photo Nov 22, 8 56 56 AM (Custom).jpg (41.5 KB, 1308 views)
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  #289  
Old Tue 22 November 2011, 15:45
Alan_c
Just call me: Alan (#11)
 
Cape Town (Western Cape)
South Africa
Send a message via Skype™ to Alan_c
Quote:
Originally Posted by Regnar View Post
Lower levels are on par with all my surrounds but once you start cranking it up you notice the difference real fast.
In a good way or a bad way?
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  #290  
Old Tue 22 November 2011, 16:31
Regnar
Just call me: Russell #69
 
Mobile, Alabama
United States of America
In a good way. They have just a little more bass than my Home Theater In a Box surround sound speakers at Low Listening Levels. At music listening level they really excel, everything sounds clear, clean and effortless. Once you go to ridiculous level walls shake from high bass and you start to feel words being spoken. These do need a Sub for the woofer duties but I think you could get by if you not big into bass. I think I paid 120.00 dollars shipped to the door a few months ago and they are well worth it.

Next project is this for bass
http://billfitzmaurice.net/TT.html

Please dont mistake me as an Audiophile, Expert or anything close to it. I am just finding projects to complete while enhancing my sound system.
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  #291  
Old Wed 23 November 2011, 16:22
melissa
Just call me: Melissa #83
 
Brighton (Ontario)
Canada
Quote:
Originally Posted by Regnar View Post
Next project is this for bass
http://billfitzmaurice.net/TT.html
You have chosen wisely .

I built a THT [Tuba Home Theatre] for my digital pipe organ... it rattles the house .

Sorry, let me rephrase that. It rattles the neighbouring houses .
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 12-michel_with_thtlp.jpg (42.7 KB, 1262 views)
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  #292  
Old Fri 25 November 2011, 09:46
Regnar
Just call me: Russell #69
 
Mobile, Alabama
United States of America
Michel you are one lucky man. I will have a hard time sneaking this one by my wife. She really doesnt like my hobbies. First she lost her parking spot to the MM and now she is loosing room in her living room to speakers.
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  #293  
Old Mon 28 November 2011, 07:45
quadtech
Just call me: Prasad
 
Hyderabad
India
Nice speakers, Regnar.
The THT is very tempting, but I have enough WAF issues with
my pair of Sachiko single driver speakers.

https://picasaweb.google.com/prasadb...DriverSpeakers
http://picasaweb.google.com/prasadb

Having a CNC would have been so nice and saved me so much time.
Matter of fact, I found the Mechmate forums via a reference on one
of the DIY audio sites and have been lurking here since, and learning...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Regnar View Post
Michel you are one lucky man. I will have a hard time sneaking this one by my wife. She really doesnt like my hobbies. First she lost her parking spot to the MM and now she is loosing room in her living room to speakers.
+1 to that
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  #294  
Old Mon 28 November 2011, 10:14
lumberjack_jeff
Just call me: Jeff #31
 
Montesano, WA
United States of America
Prasad, your photo album has some seriously cool stuff. I particularly liked the Marantz rebuild.

Can you recommend any good resources for a complete DIY audio novice?
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  #295  
Old Mon 28 November 2011, 12:36
quadtech
Just call me: Prasad
 
Hyderabad
India
Thanks, Jeff!

I learn by hanging out on forums and reading through
other peoples builds and issues. And learnt a lot more by
just diving into my own builds.
I am more familiar with the EE side of things,
but am a total novice at woodwork and metal stuff.

For a start, I would suggest checking out the forums at Diyaudio.com,
audiokarma.org and Parts Express TechTalk forums.
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  #296  
Old Thu 22 December 2011, 21:26
Regnar
Just call me: Russell #69
 
Mobile, Alabama
United States of America
All I can say is if you need a subwoofer just build one of these. Not a bad project at all and the outcome is very impressive for a 8" speaker.

I also want to put in a good word for a countersinking tool. This is not CNC orientated but still a great tool. Its called a micro stop drill. I needed a dado on one side and countersinks on the other side. This project had 242 holes that need countersinking. After the first hole setup was complete and countersinking the rest of the holes took seconds. You can get different angle countersinks for the tool at Brown tools. I picked mine up from ebay for 20 bucks.


Here are some of the build pictures.











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  #297  
Old Thu 22 December 2011, 23:17
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Nice Pics Russell! Wow that is one really clean shop.
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  #298  
Old Fri 23 December 2011, 02:20
danilom
Just call me: Danilo #64
 
Novi Sad
Serbia
and a nice minimill and minilathe I see that the mill is cnc, did you post something about your build on the cnczone? Would like to see it if you did.
Thanks
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  #299  
Old Fri 23 December 2011, 02:49
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Nice job!
Is that a back/front load horn or is it a TQWT?
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  #300  
Old Fri 23 December 2011, 13:03
Regnar
Just call me: Russell #69
 
Mobile, Alabama
United States of America
Heath, Thanks for the comment. You should see it on a clean day.

Danilo, I dont think I did one over there but I did post a few projects. Nothing big just small things. You can search for my post under Regnar there too.

Ken, To be honest I have no clue. The horn starts off the front end of the woofer and the back end is free to air.
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