Mechmate build near Grand Rapids, MI

[kentster]

Are there any members near Grand Rapids, MI interested in teaming-up to build a couple of MechMate machines? I am not a welder, but I can certainly handle the technical side of things.

I am open to a variety of arrangements. If anyone may be interested, please send me a private message via the forum.

Regards,
Kent

[MetalHead]

Kent - Welcome to the team.

[KenC]

Welcome!

Originally Posted by kentster

I am not a welder,

Kent

Me neither

[kentster]

Thank you for the warm reception, I appreciate it.

[kentster]

Originally Posted by KenC

Welcome!



Me neither

I'd like to become one, but I feel a mentor is required. I recently purchased the Miller student education kit, but I have yet to start reading it.

I actually own an Econotig which has been used a total of 3 times. I think it's time to trade it in for a Millermatic 211 with the wire feed option.

[MetalHead]

You don't need much to build a MM as far as welding skill. You can practice on some scrap plate (Get it when you get your steel) and run straight beads until you get the feel for your machine. You should be able to get results enough for your MM using that Miller Econotig machine.

Clean, Clean, Clean are the main rules for welding metals. If you don't have sheilding gas for tig use flux core on the rod options. If your rods are old get some new ones before you start if you do not know how they have been stored. While not necessary the TIG would be nice for the Y-Car welds.

http://www.solfumex.com/English/Prod...ros_carbon.asp

6013 type should be fine and very easy to use. Standard rods should be available at "Big Box Mart" (Insert Blue or Orange as needed ) .

Spend the money on your steel and use the welder you have.

[domino11]

Welcome Kent!
The welding is not really that bad. Lots of people here have been non welders and built a working machine!

[kentster]

Actually, I have a friend who is a master welder but for the past 15+ years he's been focused on growing his manufacturing business. He produces and distributes chassis building components under the Pro Werks / Chassis Shop brands. In any event, perhaps I can convince him to provide me with a lesson or two.

I still think it would be more enjoyable to have a build partner, especially since this will be my first machine attempt. My business partner has expressed interest in a machine as well, so I suspect some savings can be achieved by buying certain materials in bulk.

After pricing a fairly well known 4x10 aluminum extrusion machine recently, it's clear that the MechMate is a true value in many respects. I'm really looking forward to the build process.

[melissa]

Hi Kent,

I'm among those who started the build with no welding skills whatsoever. I invested in a Miller 211, and it's been some of the best money I spent on the build. I'm now finding all sorts of other things to fix/build as well .

I will say that one of the best accessories that helped the quality of my welds was a good auto-darkening helmet. I think I bought mine (a Miller, also) for about $200, and it made working so much easier.

[kentster]

Originally Posted by michelg

Hi Kent,

I'm among those who started the build with no welding skills whatsoever. I invested in a Miller 211, and it's been some of the best money I spent on the build. I'm now finding all sorts of other things to fix/build as well .

I will say that one of the best accessories that helped the quality of my welds was a good auto-darkening helmet. I think I bought mine (a Miller, also) for about $200, and it made working so much easier.

I just checked your build thread and those are fine welds for a beginner. I'd be thrilled if I could produce that type of quality.

I probably shouldn't have looked at your thread in retrospect as I feel a sudden need to purchase an overhead crane.

[melissa]

Originally Posted by kentster

I just checked your build thread and those are fine welds for a beginner. I'd be thrilled if I could produce that type of quality.

I probably shouldn't have looked at your thread in retrospect as I feel a sudden need to purchase an overhead crane.

Heh. Well, part of my plan was to start welding on low(er)-risk projects first. I made a pair of speaker stands, then the crane, and then started on the MechMate.

I actually built the crane after seeing another MM builder had built the same crane. I really like this design as it only rolls when unloaded. That makes it much less likely for a load to get out of control.

[KenC]

I don't even own a welder...

[kentster]

Originally Posted by michelg

Heh. Well, part of my plan was to start welding on low(er)-risk projects first. I made a pair of speaker stands, then the crane, and then started on the MechMate.

I actually built the crane after seeing another MM builder had built the same crane. I really like this design as it only rolls when unloaded. That makes it much less likely for a load to get out of control.

I'll need to take a closer look at your crane, it sounds like a smart design.

We're moving into a new office space in the very near future, my forth location in 7 years, so I'd like to dive right in and build cabinetry, architectural panels for accent walls, and quite a few work surfaces for freestanding desks.

I'll dig up some example pictures shortly that roughly outline the types of pieces I intend to fabricate.

[kentster]

I've begun to order electronics and I intend to order steel in the coming weeks once I come to a conclusion about which linear motion system(s) to use and the size of the machine.

As I may have stated earlier in this thread, my primary goal for the machine is to produce cabinetry and architectural panels for personal projects. Specifically, I'll be attempting to produce very clean and European style components similar to the work of James McGrew whom some of you may know from the Saw Mill Creek forum. http://www.mcgrewwoodwork.com/

Having said that, I have a couple of outstanding questions I would appreciate input on.

Assuming space is not a major issue, what is an optimum work envelope size for cabinet type work assuming US board dimensions? I would like some extra room at the ends of the X and Y axis to allow for operations on the outer perimiter of sheets. My initial thought is to size the work envelope somewhere in the neighborhood of 3048mm x 1829mm.

The possibility exists that we may perform 2-3 steel builds simultaneously. My business partner would like a machine and I have a friend who has expressed interest. However, neither of them have shown interest in grinding rails and I'm not exactly looking forward to it either. I would strongly prefer to use some sort of of pre-engineered solution whether it be based on the V rail design or a linear bearing. Given the length of the X axis, a traditional linear bearing system is probably out of the question. Although it seems that the company did not leave much of an impression here, PCB Linear has several products that appear to fit my needs. I've priced a couple of their offerings and I feel confident that most of their line falls within my projected budget. The problem is I'm not sure which route to take - IVTAAS versus IVTAAP for instance. I'm also working from the assumption that the system chosen for the X axis will be used for Y also. I intend to use a linear guide from THK/NSK or similar brand for the Z axis.

Basically, I would appreciate input on alternatives to the V rail system that fall in between it and a full linear guide system from THK/NSK for instance. Keep in mind that most of the PCB profiles are available in lengths up to 3650mm.

As a token of my appreciation, the person who provides the best answer/solution will receive a slightly used PMDX-103 parallel port isolator board which I no longer have a use for.

Kent

[smreish]

Kent,
If DIY fabrication of the rail is very simple, but does require time. Professional *quick* results are possible with a good work flow and setup in the shop. With that said, The manufactured VEE Rail from Superior Bearing or BWC is available and also simple. But does not save you any more time.

If using prefabricated V-rail for the #3 size bearings, you will still need to cut down the angle iron rail height. Aluminum or steel can be used for the V-rail support and is clearly noted as an option in the drawing package.
The angle iron support for these rails will require you to transfer, mark and drill holes on 6" centers and then bolt all the sections on.

I have done both, and been part of 4 machines builds in the past 5 years. The DIY ground rail proved to be the quickest and most affordable in cost. The manufactured rails are very nice, but will required a more intense setup, aligned and bolting procedure.

The PRO to the VEE rail is it's availability as a induction hardened edge. But you pay a premium for that.

Good luck with your choices.

There are a few documented builds with the "off the shelf" rails. Start with Sailfl build. Nils did an excellent job with his machine. And he was the first to go this route.

Best,
Sean

[kentster]

Thank you for the advice Sean. I will research some of the builds you mentioned and hopefully come to a conclusion in the next few days so I can begin ordering the final parts needed to complete the build.

[kentster]

Thanks to stphnd22 and a member over at the Mach3 forum I now have most of the electronics necessary to start my build. I've rented a small shop to store all of my CNC projects, so expect some progress updates and pictures soon.

[kentster]

I decided some time ago that I wanted a larger control box and luckily found this at a local auction a couple of weeks back. Admittedly, I may have gone a bit overboard. I estimate the box weighs somewhere in the neighborhood of 90-100 pounds.





The cover was locked, so I had no idea what was inside prior to bringing it home. To my surprise, it contained a few Allen Bradley bits including a MicroLogix 1200 PLC.

[Jasonmm92]

Kent I was wondering how this was going ? thanks Jay