I'm working on a new MM quietly in the corner #5 - Orlando. FL

[Greg J]

Robert,

Couldn't find your personal thread ...

Here are a couple of pictures of my Y car Prox. What are you wondering about?

That darn high gloss paint.
Y Prox 1.jpg

Y Prox 2.jpg

Originally Posted by Robert M

Hi Sean,
After reading a few post on this proximity limits, I’m still very curious to see how you type of installation fits on the Y car.
I’ve seen your pics from your thread #247 and David’s new ones, but David uses Diell BIG 18mm in a different holder approach.
If not to much asking, could you post a few detail pics out of your Y car proxy installation ?
Thanks, Robert

Robert - the spec'ed proxy is 12mm for M1 18 022, so the 6mm isn't too much larger. I purchased the 18mm units due to cost - $10. If you maintain the same center line (1" from the back edge of the angle), using a different sensor shouldn't be an issue. I think the bigger issue is the total length of the sensor, it's distance needed to sense the rail and the height of the cable (right angle or straight).

I'd recommend waiting to build the stops until you have your gantry and y-car done and working. I'd then weld the end-stops onto the rail after you have mounted the stopper lips (M118022). Just in case....

[Robert M]

Thanks Greg to chime in and taking some of your time for those photos .
As for my own thread, just not ready yet but I’ll open one as soon as I start my built. To date I’ve completed pretty much everything on paper & some (Cad) but nothing concrete to show. My work, budget & schedule impose me a slower / longer study approach process than I expected. Must admit, I’ve put a lot more time on the “how-to, what’s that & paper planning” than I ever thought… but worth every nano seconds on it. Thanks to you, this group & GERALD
Here’s a teaser where I’m at !:
Later, Robert

Originally Posted by Greg J

Here are a couple of pictures of my Y car Prox. What are you wondering about?

Greg -

Can you tell me what that bracket bolted to the y-car next to the proxy sensor is for?

Thanks,
david

[Robert M]

David, from my seat it appears to be it’s his own E-chain support creation replacing #10 60 325 !!

[smreish]

Robert,
Pics that I promised last night.
x y and z axis proximity mounts.
yaxis_prox.jpg
y axis

xaxis_prox.jpg
x axis

zaxis_prox.jpg
z - axis

[Greg J]

Originally Posted by dmoore

Greg -

Can you tell me what that bracket bolted to the y-car next to the proxy sensor is for?

Thanks,
david

David,

Robert called it correct. That's a bracket for the E-chain (cable chain).

[Robert M]

Sean,

Thanks for your time on my request, appreciate !
Greg’s & your photos will help me, and hopping other too?
Robert

[Kobus_Joubert]

A question about the proxy sensor holes. On the drawings Gerald indicates 20mm. My biggest drill is 18mm and I don't own a reamer. Can I leave it at 18mm ?

[smreish]

18mm "should" work for most cable connector ends. I happen to use a modular *make to suit your needs* style of QD connector for proximities. It's body needs a 19mm hole to clear. If you have the standard off the shelf factory made connector, the hole may work for you. If you want an easy larger hole, you can pick up a Greenlee (TM) or similar variable stepped drill bit that will makes holes from 1/4" up to 7/8" - (7mm to 24 mm ) The bit is around the 40 dollar range, but Harbor Freight has them for around 20 dollars US.

...and yes, the y chain bracket is placed just off centerline on the y car. You can see it just above the sensor in the photo. The mamba parts were not release yet when I built my MM. Thus, I had to improvise my E chain bracket and support from scratch and guidance from Gerald across the pond on clearances and location suggestions.

Have a great day.
Sean

[J.R. Hatcher]

I think Kobus is talking about the 20mm proxy target holes in drawing 10 10 246

[sailfl]

Kobus,

How big around are your proximity sensors? If they are smaller than 18mm you should be fine.

[smreish]

JR,
Thanks...typing before coffee dangerous! 18mm fine for target hole as long as your centermark and drilling is accurate. The 12mm sensors I used work fine on 13mm holes in other applications.

[Kobus_Joubert]

I have not bought the proxy sensors yet. So when it comes to that I must just make sure that they are smaller than the sensor target hole (18mm)

I wonder what actual size the holes have to be to break? It would seem that sensor type, distance from hole, metal used, etc all have a part to play. Does anyone in the automation world have some input on this?

I did find this:

http://web1.automationdirect.com/sta...k910series.pdf

[smreish]

Well, I thought I would post a few pictures of what the MM in Orlando has been up to. She has officially run through her first 30 carbide tool bits and is about 30 days from paying herself off in investment dollars.

...after today, I wish I would have made a 12' long table instead of a 10' table. Otherwise, happy and cutting.

mdf_cutouts.jpg

mdf_cutouts2.jpg

[Robert M]

Thanks for those pics Sean

Nice to see you’re happy with your investment and it’s working back hard with out complaining
May I ask to who & what trade you mostly do CNC work for?
Robert

[J.R. Hatcher]

Sean, how about throwing a little of that work my way ...... STARVING UP HERE. We have a film studio in town, it's been here about 15 years. I need to get by there and talk to them.

That looks like a good job. Nice work. Did you draw it, cam it or both?

[smreish]

JR.
Designed by others...I on the other hand took care of all the Autocad translation / redraw existing lines to closed polylines, import into LazyCAM pro, offset all shapes accordingly, and cut.

JR...I just wish we could slow down for just one week so I can move the machine to it's appropriate home and hook up the dust collection, vacuum holddown and indexer. Heck, I would love to at least hang the controller on the wall!

Robert.
All the CNC work we do at Austin2Paris is primarily internal use only. We are a general contacting firm that specializes in themed enviroments, etc. for theme parks, museums, etc.
We do outside cutting for others, but that business so far has been piece meal at best.

Back to making files for tomorrow!

[Greg J]

Sean,

Thanks for all your input and help.

Your an inspiration and motivator. As well as all the other people on this forum.

[cncb]

Looking good Sean. How many sheets do you go through each day? 30 router bits sounds a bit much for one month, even with MDF. How many times do you change the dust collector bags for the router every week?

[smreish]

Brian,
Depends on poorly I treat the bits!
Some days, I get 10 sheets on a bit, sometimes only 1!
My challenge is I rarely cut MDF...usually some weird lay-up of plastic on wood. Aluminum with Plastic. Plastic only. PVC/ Sintra. OSB for template stuff. Real Oak or Maple. Cardboard - yep cardboard. Just to name a few things I have been cutting.

[cncb]

go try and cut Jatoba or Ebony, there are some exotic south american woods that cut like steel or sheet metal its nuts. But with good solid carbide tooling you shouldn't be going through that many router bits. You ever look into a higher quality spiral where you can buy a few sets and send them out to be sharpened?

[smreish]

All the bits I have are high quality onsrud carbide. I just can plan for the occasional "operator" usage. Hit a clamp while jogging, etc. Plunge to fast and burn the bottom....using the wrong bit on the wrong material. Like wood carbide bit on aluminum sheet. All things I am certain the guys in the shop will learn and my use will go down.

....learning curve a little higher than normal for some of my shop guys!

[Alan_c]

Try pushing them faster, I found with MDF that they burn easily from rubbing if the feed speed is too slow. My good mate George Hess (ex MultiCam agent) used to tell me push them as fast as possible until just before they break then back off slightly...

[smreish]

Alan,
Good advice. I'll try that...in about 6 minutes when the next cut is done!
Back to making wood chips and lots of dust.

[Robert M]

Alan !
I’m stunned
Dont risk injury by plying with “fire”

My good mate George Hess (ex MultiCam agent) used to tell me push them as fast as possible until just before they break then back off slightly...

No personal attack Alan, just Not my kind of good mate !


Sean
May not be any news but worth reminding, make your self a favor, download Onsrud main 2006 cutter catalog & have a look at the technical data at the end, from p78 on. Chip load & tool staying at proper temp is the approach, not till they break

Amiclalement, Robert

[smreish]

To address all out there on bits. I have the Onsrud chart comfortably placed on the wall and refer to it ever time the table fires up. After all the years running the Multicam, Bridgeport and others, you get accustomed to the "feel and sound" of each tool bit.

I found out later today that the 13 dollar 3/8" shank, 2 flute tin coated 1/4" diamter cutting bit from McMaster Carr (a metal cutting bit) did a fantastic job on the MDF. It always does. I also ran it without issue at 225ipm per 3/8 " pass. Great chip load...no smoke...still sharp.

I certainly don't want to change my personal thread to a bit / tool discussion. I just thought the new members and novice folks would appreciate a little insight when I try something a little new.

Happy cutting ya'll.

Sean

[Marc Shlaes]

There is a thread on Speeds, Feeds, Bits and Materials. Move the discussion there (done) and keep going. This helps us beginners a whole bunch!

[Greg J]

"Any *sign fast or quick sign* shops will cut for a nominal fee.
But, Since you happen to have a working CNC table....why don't you just CNC cut a "paint mask" template out of very thin material and paint your logo?
....just a thought to save a few bucks.

Sean"

I got pissed at my local graphics shop today. Been trying to get the MechMate decal for a couple of days and no results. So, ... I'll make my own.

When making a "paint mask", what, or how, do you do the "islands". O, e, d, a, g, etc.