10 20 235 Y-Rail Clamp Strip - getting it into position . . . .

How did you guys attached the Y-Rail Clamp Strip inside of the tube? Since you will need to remove the rails once the stiffining closures (10 20 456) are welded in, it seems you should weld the ends of the strip inside the tube.

That's what I did but I'm wondering if there was another more "approved" method I wasn't aware of.

[Doug_Ford]

I wish you had asked this question earlier. I welded mine also and regretted it later. Gerald explained how to position the strips if you don't weld them. I can't remember where his explanation was but I found it after I had tacked them in place and closed up the end of the rails. The reason you shouldn't weld the strips is that you can't reposition the rails as much as you can if the strips are loose. Believe it or not, it made a difference when I was trying to get the car to sit down properly. Hopefully you won't have the same problems I did.

[Alan_c]

The slots in the stiffening closures are there so that you can slide the clamping strip in or out.

A trick when installing, insert the strip through the slot and position roughly below the holes in the tube top, place rail on top of tube, then use two lengths of ready bar (all thread) with nuts on about 200mm (8") from the ends. Insert the threaded rod through two holes about a third of the way from each end of the rail, and turn into the tapped holes in the clamp strip. Once thats done, lift the clamp bar up against the inside of the tube and run the nuts on the treaded rod down to the rail - that will hold the rail in place and allow you to put in the rest of the bolts. When you have sufficient bolts in, remove the threaded rod and replace with standard bolts. To remove just work in reverse.

If possible, remove the welds you have as it will limit the amount of adjustment available.

[Doug_Ford]

Thanks Alan. That's what I remembered reading.

[smreish]

Gentlemen.
I did the "other" option.
I used 3/16" wall tube and tapped the holes 5/16 fine thread! yeah I know....rebel.
I was on a tapping frenzy while running the tap in everything that had a hole drilling in it!
So far, working well.
And as far as the extra mass on the gantry...I haven't noticed an issue yet at all. Especially with the 7.2 geared motors.

[ekdenton]

I thought it would be a problem for me but when I bolted the rails on, I slid the bolt strip inside the tubes and held one end up with a screwdriver and started the bolt, then did the other end the same way. Once I had the two ends pulled up tight I angled the rail on top of the rectangular tubing and bolted the rail center hole to the bolt strip center hole, removed the two bolts in the ends, rotated the rail into place and then inserted the rest of the bolts working from the center outwards. It was actually pretty easy to do.

hope that made sense

[Gerald D]

Originally Posted by Doug_Ford

I wish you had asked this question earlier. I welded mine also and regretted it later. Gerald explained how to position the strips if you don't weld them. I can't remember where his explanation was . . . .

. . . . it was here

[Johannescnc]

How about this...

[IN-WondeR]

I just used a couple of bolts in the middle of the gantry to keep it lifted enough for me to get a hold of it with another bolt in one end, and then the other afterwards... Worked with ease...

Originally Posted by johannascnc

How about this...

Now that's a good idea... wish I had though of that. No fishing around for it inside the gantry tube and it still provides room for the wires.

[Gerald D]

Many ways to skin a cat . . . . . you can even turn the gantry upside down and let gravity do the job.

[javeria]

the easiest

[Johannescnc]

Originally Posted by Gerald D

Many ways to skin a cat . . . . . you can even turn the gantry upside down and let gravity do the job.

As long as the cat gets skined!