WOW These parts are big!! Toledo, OH

[Father-of-Ash]

Ok, I failed again.
Impatience and assumptions + MM = fail.
I'm assuming once again that these motors should tear the meat off my hand if I attempt to hold them.....
There definetly was a difference in the Kelling being 200+ oz. More powerful, but still didn't do the job.
Dampers seem fine. If I go with a heavier or lighter capability I will probably end up in same scenario but in opposite directions.
So I'm hoping gear reduction should be able to handle it.

[MetalHead]

So are you saying you got your motors and still have an issue?

[pblackburn]

also remember that 200 in-oz is 200 ounces at 1 inch at maximum torque or 12.5 lb at 1 foot.

[pblackburn]

I use a 880 oz-in motor for my z. I use a ball screw for mine and it is overkill but I already had it. Still even with that I have a extension spring to equalize the weight of the Z so it will not free fall. Re-familiarize yourself with the properties of a stepper motor. It sounds like it is a weight issue to me. That is why I asked if you helped assist the motor if it would rise. You are using the same computer/program/settings right?

[pblackburn]

If you swapped the motor to your X or B axes (assuming they are the same motors) and they move that axis fine I would lean toward a weight issue. If you can't swap it with one of those then use the Y.

[Father-of-Ash]

Yes Mike, same issue although not really an issue, I'm just expecting too much out of the motors.
Pete, first thing I should of done is refamiliarized, but my time is limited and I got impatient.
It would rise if I assisted it, but seemed way too weak of a motor, again just expecting much more, which is my fault.
I'm going to try other then McMaster Carr for a damper in closer range..
Pete, other then that, I'm gonna work on some reduction boxes using your files, just try and make them look sexier.

[MetalHead]

Just so I understand. These motors move X & Y just fine?

[Father-of-Ash]

Yes Mike, the pk299 move the x & y fine, but fairly close to skipping steps( very heavy gantry tubes + y-car stuff). Pk299 wasn't tough enough for the Z's either, that's why I thought I had motor issues. And the Z,s didn't seem too tough to pull back up/ push down... Again just complete ignorance on my part about the motors.

[Father-of-Ash]

Hello all,

I've got the spindle spinning from mach3 through a PMDX-107, but cant change RPM through mach3. I used warpd9 smooth stepper settings for mach and set main parameters in VFD, setting PD013 first, then 5,4,3,6-12 & 140-145.
I think that it is a parameter that is set incorrectly, but not sure.
I'm using the Haunyang HY04d023b w/ 4kw spindle.
PD005 - 400
PD004 - 400
PD003 - 400
PD006 - 2.5
PD007 - 20
PD008 - 220
PD009 - 15
pd010 - 8
Pd011 - 120
PD014 - 12
PD015 - 12
PD141 - 220
PD142 - 10
PD143 - 3
PD144 - 3000
PD070 - 0

I also customized Pete's Z-axis plates, just put a couple curves in them. I was hoping someone could quote me on cutting them out. local quotes seem too high, but then again I'm not sure what a decent price is for something like this.

[pblackburn]

I use a Hitachi drive so I would not be much help with confirming the settings but modbus can be tricky to set up in mach, I did have pics in my thread with the setup I used that could be for reference, also search cnczone for info

[pblackburn]

The more complex the part, the more it costs to make. A part that can be made manually that is quick and easy to make is less than one with complex curves. Changing the rounded rectangle to 1.5" radius or boxing it to use only a 0.500" endmill reduces cost to make as well. Most machine shops will work with you if you ask him what you can do to the part design to help lower the cost to get it within your budget.

[Father-of-Ash]

Thanks Pete, it seems most people go the modbus route. is the only reason RPM accuracy?

I got the part quoted both ways, modified and unmodified and he wanted $30 more per.

anyone willing to cut it?

[bradm]

If I'm looking at the right online manuals, you need to set PD-163, PD-164, PD-165 to an address, baud rate, and type of modbus protocol you want to use. Also PD-002 for what source controls frequency - probably value 2.

I can't tell if this article is obsolete or not in terms of setting up the Mach3 side.

[Father-of-Ash]

Thanks Brad, it doesn't look obsolete. same parameters as what my manual shows, but I'm not going modbus route. I believe those parameters are modbus only?

and can someone tell me what is a decent price to pay for those plates?

Thank you.

[bradm]

Whoops, I missed that. So you're trying to PWM to control the frequency, and you're wired from the PMDX-107 to that input? Do you have PD-002 set to 1 ?

[pblackburn]

Get quotes around your area and online with RFQs, they will vary much, figure cost of material plus standard cut rate plus tolerance fee. The lowest I have heard of is $50/hr but most will be a lot higher than that.

[Father-of-Ash]

Brad, correct and PD-002 is set to 1

does $225 per plate sound fair?

[pblackburn]

If the tolerance is +- 0.005, that is inline with most quotes I receive at work. But like I said, don't be afraid to shop around.

[Father-of-Ash]

Thanks Pete, most guys around here (Toledo) wont bother with the one off part.

next question might be silliest on the forum but...
When I'm standing in the "front" or "Material feed" end of the table, my spindle home is at the back right corner and when I bring my X forward, the DRO will read in the negative. So once i got my soft limits set, it wouldn't allow the X to budge from its home position. Y axis is fine as it goes into a positive reading from home.
So how do I flip the + and - readings on the X? I'm hoping software only solution...

[pblackburn]

Change the wiring on the driver to the motor for x and b to reverse the direction it travels

[bradm]

Or change the polarity on the direction pin, if your software allows.

Have you tried the various online machining services - emachineshop and the like? I haven't used them, but if you can't find a local shop, maybe one of those services will do.

[Father-of-Ash]

For some reason my post submission didn't go through the other day.

I ended up swapping wiring, you can only reverse the slaved axis in software.

I tried online, came back at 250 not including some finishing touches I couldn't figure out in 3d. I ordered them from my first quote.

Mean time, still figuring out the spindle RPM issue. it will spin up to whatever parameter I have set in PD-011 "frequency lower limit" .

Once I get those plates in, I should have a working Z and hopefully make a first cut.
Till then, need to cut & thread some stand-offs and pulleys for gearboxes.

Thanks for your quick replies guys.

[bradm]

I think I would hang a meter across the analog speed input of your VFD to see what the measurement is, and if it varies in response to changing the software setting.

Based on what you've described I'd expect you'll find it's a low voltage and doesn't vary, causing minimum speed to be invoked.

Would you care to tell us:

1- Are you using 0-5v, 0-10v or ratiometric according to the PMDX manual wiring options?
2- Did you do the speed calibration shown in the PMDX-107 manual? Is the trim pot all the way counter clockwise at the moment?
3- What the PMDX-107 dip switch settings are?

[Father-of-Ash]

Wow

Ok, Reading from VI to ACM terminals is 0 and VI to DCM is .80
VI connected to Aout @ pmdx
DCM to COM " "
ACM to Agnd " "
I'm using 0-10v.
I didn't bother with calibration yet, trim pot is all the way counter clockwise.
All switches are set to the off position.

another confusing thing on the VFD is the dual terminal rails where there is an ACM and DCM on each rail. I tried using both with no difference.

[bradm]

That all seems correct. The redundant commons (ACM and DCM) are pretty er, commonly found for convenience when wiring multiple harnesses to the VFD.

I suspect that the trim point all the way down means you are never outputting any voltage, and you need to do the calibration as the next step, at which point you will get both voltage measurements, and speed control.

[Father-of-Ash]

ok. more confusion. I made sure trim pot is all the way CC before starting system, started test mode and played with pot but nothing would happen. started system with pot turned fully clockwise and then tried adjusting and it would increase spindle RPM in the CC direction. spindle max RPM was almost fully CC, and then pressed test button once and it sped up to 375Hz then pressed button once more and exited test mode.
In mach3 I entered 1000 RPM and spindle went to almost its max RPM @ 398hz, and then when i tried increasing RPM even more by pressing the "+arrow", it dropped RPM and went to 320hz, then turned off spindle at which point it increased RPM again and then shut down.
And Parameters PD-072 & PD-073: Lower & Higher Analog frequency are set to 100 & 400.

[bradm]

What does a meter with black on ACM and red on VI show during the test? Any chance you have aout and agnd reversed?

I notice you have a yellow/green wire connected to VI, does that go to aout as it should?

[Father-of-Ash]

Again, thank you for the quick replies.

ACM to VI is still 0
DCM to VI is .6

Yes, VI is connected to Aout

Any idea why trim pot is functioning backwards?

[bradm]

So not getting a reading from ACM to VI is weird, and so is getting a reading from DCM to VI. It makes me continue to be suspicious of a wiring error. I assume the reading at VI must have moved during the test or you wouldn't have seen frequency variation. Are you able to set up the meter so that you can watch it during the test?

Theories on trim pot backwards:

It's acting as if you're moving against a 10v reference instead of ground; when it's all the way up 10v-10v = 0v = no motion. As you decrease you get 10v - 7v = 3v, 10v - 5v = 5v, ... 10v - 0v = 10v.

Or, as if you have PD071 - PD076 set up for a reverse curve.

Hmm. What's the voltage between ACM and DCM? Should be either an open circuit, or 0v.

[Father-of-Ash]

Thanks Brad, sorry for the delay.
I'm suspicious of my volt meter, its an old digital one but when I went to test ACM to VI again before I starting it in test mode, it showed voltage ramping up to around 2.5, but then every other time I checked it it showed nothing.
I looked at wiring again and it is as listed in post #204.

Havent had time to get back on it but I Wil recheck PD-071-76.
ACM to DCM is open.
Trtimg,to get my hands on a newer multimeter.