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  #1  
Old Wed 28 October 2009, 00:33
buibui
Just call me: John #34
 
Seattle
United States of America
Tonight, I experimented with a couple new things, the bitmap trace feature in Vectric and the prismatic v-carving feature. Not bad for the first try, although I should have spent more time cleaning up the vectors because the lines didn't come out perfect from tracing. I just got too excited to cut.

The artwork is made by my friend, who creates ambigrams as a hobby. An ambigram is lettering that can be read forwards and backwards, like in the book Angels and Demons. This one is of his last name. Pretty neat stuff!

V-carving the letters sure was dusty. I used a 3/4" 90 deg v-cutter, and a 1/4" single flute bit for the profile. Material is 1" mdf.

Attachment 6837

Attachment 6838

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Attachment 6840
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Delmuro Ambigram 002.JPG (84.4 KB, 915 views)
File Type: jpg Delmuro Ambigram 004.JPG (60.5 KB, 915 views)
File Type: jpg Delmuro Ambigram 011.JPG (70.7 KB, 915 views)
File Type: jpg Delmuro Ambigram 013.JPG (66.1 KB, 916 views)
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  #2  
Old Wed 28 October 2009, 05:23
hennie
Just call me: Hennie #23
 
Roodepoort JHB
South Africa
Nice john!
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  #3  
Old Wed 28 October 2009, 23:43
buibui
Just call me: John #34
 
Seattle
United States of America
Thank you, Hennie!
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  #4  
Old Thu 29 October 2009, 08:33
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Beautiful.
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  #5  
Old Thu 05 November 2009, 18:38
Castone
Just call me: Leo #41
 
Soddy Daisy , Tn
United States of America
Looks great!
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  #6  
Old Fri 06 November 2009, 06:41
ljunior
Just call me: Lucas
 
Betim - Minas Gerais
Brazil
That's amazing.
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  #7  
Old Mon 30 November 2009, 00:58
buibui
Just call me: John #34
 
Seattle
United States of America
This weekend, I worked on a two-person chinese checker set that I had designed and wanted to make for some time. I love the look of old wood-laminated surfboards, and like to incorporate the look into a lot of my projects. This game set is made with glued up strips of hard maple, bloodwood, and ebony. I have not decided on the finish yet, probably some Danish oil or the like.

This was the first time cutting hardwood on my MM...much more enjoyable than MDF. Less dust, more chips. It was also the first time I had to care about indexing the material properly due to the stripe down the center. This was nerve racking after all the time spent gluing up the board. I'll need to work on some sort of fixture for this type of work.

Here are some pics of the project, along with some MDF prototypes I made before deciding on the final shape:

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Final game board without finish...
Attachment 7393
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 023.JPG (62.1 KB, 918 views)
File Type: jpg 026.JPG (99.2 KB, 917 views)
File Type: jpg 032.JPG (107.9 KB, 914 views)
File Type: jpg 043.JPG (93.0 KB, 915 views)
File Type: jpg 052.JPG (69.5 KB, 922 views)
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  #8  
Old Mon 30 November 2009, 05:26
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
Send a message via Skype™ to J.R. Hatcher
They are great looking. A cross hair laser would make alignment very simple?? Where did you get the pins?
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  #9  
Old Tue 01 December 2009, 00:50
buibui
Just call me: John #34
 
Seattle
United States of America
Thank you, J.R. A laser would probably help...I haven't read enough about this yet to figure out where to get one, how to hook it up, and use it. For this project, I had used a pointy stick chucked in the router

Regarding the pegs, I bought them from craftparts.com. Mine are the 5/8" dia. size.

John
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  #10  
Old Wed 02 December 2009, 08:32
dragonfinder1
Just call me: Dave #49
 
Astoria, Oregon
United States of America
John

I find the center of my project and use a very sharp pencil, make a small line. The use a laser pointed v-bit, center it on the pencil line, then go to the MDI page of Mach and move half the width of my project, then zero the DRO. It's fast and you can get very close to the center of your project.

Given the width of the lines I've seen with lasers, you can get as close with my method. For sure not as fast, but you never have to worry about the lasers being knocked out of align.

Dave
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  #11  
Old Thu 03 December 2009, 09:38
dragonfinder1
Just call me: Dave #49
 
Astoria, Oregon
United States of America
Castone

How do you set up when you want the file that your cutting to be in the center of a pattern in your material that might not be or is not centered in the base material?
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  #12  
Old Thu 03 December 2009, 10:07
Castone
Just call me: Leo #41
 
Soddy Daisy , Tn
United States of America
edge

If you start as I was talking about before by finding your 0Y 0X . You can measure the board you are cutting, then you can just jog to what is the center of the board by looking at your computer. Or you can go MDI Type G0 X10 Y5 F20 and hit enter and it will jog to that location for you. Most parts do not require it to be this close but when it does this will always work.
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