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  #181  
Old Mon 25 October 2010, 13:45
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Norm.....
Have u been « ingurgitating » pure caffeine
Cool down buddy
• Holding the sheet goods as per your recommendations..... pin nailler & clamps....for now.
• Once moved to its final shop / production space, a vacuum system should be in place !
• Precision as a “direct drive” can be ....it’s ok....as per what a direct drive resolution can give.
Have all the parts sitting in a box for the past few mo now, kinda waiting for me to simply machine the alu trany plates and VOILÀ a better cut resolution will be in place !

Had some serious delay & legal matter to take care of for the “new location to be ” But just got all solve this very last Friday…..hiouffff
As for a number…. Not after any particular one….this is secondary for me!
Gerald knows my view on this and knows how I respect his contribution to all this.

Amicalement, Robert
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  #182  
Old Wed 27 October 2010, 07:25
PEU
Just call me: Pablo
 
Buenos Aires
Argentina
Nice job on the baltic birch ply! how do you remove the tabs? by hand?


Pablo
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  #183  
Old Wed 27 October 2010, 18:03
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Aloa Amigo !!
With a wood chisel on the mdf table.... works great !
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  #184  
Old Fri 29 October 2010, 23:16
felix
Just call me: Yves
 
Québec
Canada
Super,félicitation

Bonjour Robert,

je vois que ça y est , félicitaçion!

Congratulation for your new MM. From want I can see here, there is a lot of work in this. I hope for you there is a lot more work (paying) ahead.

A+
Yves
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  #185  
Old Sat 30 October 2010, 08:24
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Thanks mate !
I did reply to your pm .....later
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  #186  
Old Fri 24 December 2010, 04:55
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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My personal best wishes to all Mechmaters and your love ones for this wonderful holiday season and may 2011 be a WONDERFULL year to all !
Peace
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  #187  
Old Fri 24 December 2010, 07:39
danilom
Just call me: Danilo #64
 
Novi Sad
Serbia
Hello Robert,
I am doing some test cuts in birch plywood 10mm, and spiral bit leaves so called "fuzz" are you recommending straight bit?
I read the other thread but its unclear to me which machining steps did you use.
do you cut ccw all in steps and then one full cw pass?

Thanks for help.
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  #188  
Old Fri 24 December 2010, 07:40
normand blais
Just call me: Normand
 
montreal
Canada
Same to you Bob , and everyone . I hope for you a good year and that every thing get fix at your shop so you can start having all the time for your MM business.



ps . c'tait ben ma boit de control ,un transzorb a 2piastre. stait reparé lendemin
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  #189  
Old Sat 25 December 2010, 09:06
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Bonjour Danilo
My best results cuts with birch Ply are with a compression router bit.
Say your cutting a 6mm multi ply ( birch multi-ply that is), well I use a 6mm compression bit like this one ( see pdf link ) and even with 8mm, 10mm thick birch ply.
If you’re looking for a faster cut in thicker ply mat, say a 10, 12, 15mm or more, then you could consider stepping up to a bigger router bit like a 10 or 12mm bit.
I still prefer most of my cutting w/the 6mm ( Onsrud #60-152) as it allows smaller finish radius.

Any of those bits are design for a single pass cutting. But best finish is obtained with a 1st pass climb cut (CW) as a roughing pass and a finish pass ( remachining) of say +/- 0.5 to 1mm conventional (CCW).
With my set up, best I came up with in this last pass is set up at a slower cutting rate, say feed rate reduced by +/- 50%.

Note : It was explain to me by those bit manufacturer, the difference between a compression “mortise” bit vs a regular compression bit is in the upcut length portion.
( from that same pdf link, look at the 60-100M series )!
A “mortise” bit has longer bottom cut, meaning the position where the up cut meets the downcut is higher in term of cutting depth. A data to take in account when selecting bit vs material thickness vs bit diam !!

Hope this can help clear some of your questions, let me know if I can help you more !
Amicalement, Robert
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  #190  
Old Sat 25 December 2010, 09:13
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Norm!!
Thanks for those kind words
Pi, bin comptemps d’ouair qu’ctait inqu’ta bouaite pi facile a r’mettre en ordre !!
Hey….bonne et heureuse à toi et tes proches…. Peace !!
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  #191  
Old Thu 27 September 2012, 00:07
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Hi Robert, we know you are still out there - how about some recent pictures of your work?
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  #192  
Old Thu 27 September 2012, 12:33
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Hi Gerald….
Indeed, I’ve been in the back ground and lurking every week, in not every days….
BUT, My BB is still out of service as it is still in “boxes”….. in my new place !
Should be back in service before year end if all goes well
Some Pics Then !!...OK
Best I can offer, fresh out of the “back room” from yesterday !
Futur-shop_project-Diamand.jpg
Later Guys, Gerald
Amicalement, Robert

Last edited by Gerald D; Fri 28 September 2012 at 03:29..
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  #193  
Old Thu 27 September 2012, 17:45
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Is there any way one (i for this matter ) can go back to his own post and make spelling corrections …..due to sleep deprivation and being out of coffee
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  #194  
Old Thu 27 September 2012, 17:58
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
You have to bribe the admin and guys that over watch the post!
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  #195  
Old Fri 28 September 2012, 03:32
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Thanks Robert, that workshop is still nice and empty!

(PS, you have an edit button for 30 minutes - I made some small changes for you)
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  #196  
Old Fri 28 September 2012, 05:50
normand blais
Just call me: Normand
 
montreal
Canada
Salut Robert
Getty ready for winter with all the aluminum insulation . you going to be like a hot potato in the oven . Seem to me there would be room for your MM ,but if you like we can set it up in my basement.
Only the drywall is missing ,soon you will be reunited again with your MM
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  #197  
Old Fri 28 September 2012, 07:19
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Good Morning Gerald, guys !
G – At 4;32, i was just hitting my snooze button….and by 5-ish, I was still trying to get my 1st drop of coffee in my cup … ( bear in mind I’m 7hr behind Cap town, at -5 GMT)
For this editing, no major thing here, it’s just some wrong key strike in my text, nothing intuition wont solve !

Norm…I rather be “roasting” vs getting some frost bite in my new shop

Bribe hein !!!....ok Nils, mind sharing any contact you had success with
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  #198  
Old Fri 21 December 2012, 12:36
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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New support Board search !

Hi guys !

Now, after moving all my beast to my new location, I’m in slow but moving, re-assembling mode ….when time permits !
One thing I’d appreciate seeing / learning is :
support board install !?
Since I’m planning to put in a new one, I have a plan / idea on how I will proceed, but….My curious mind is fishing around to see if some have came up with a better way since…..early days !
I’ve put in a search on the forum search tool, but it pulls out all “support” and then “board”…..simply too many to see some sense in this !

Thanks
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  #199  
Old Tue 25 December 2012, 04:57
rischoof
Just call me: Rik #92
 
Goirle
Netherlands
Robert
First off all merry christmas
My spoilbort consits two layers. One layer plywood 16 mm and a top layer mdf 12 mm
For making the holes fitting to the holes in the cross beam I made a small device to creatie the centerholes in the spoilboard so I can drill them later to the correct size. Its a bold with a 1.5 mm hole in the middel. In this hole a nail is placed. With a hamer I make the centerholes at the correct place and drill them later to the correct size.
I Will modify my c beam by drilling the holes through the under flange from the c beam so can drill the holes directly from the underside in the spoil board using a extra long drill
You can also use the old spoilboard as a drill template for the new one.
Good luck with your reassembling
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  #200  
Old Tue 25 December 2012, 11:33
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Rik, first, thanks for your kind wishes.
I’ll take this occasion wishing all MM members my best wishes on this wonderful holiday season period and may 2013 be a SUPERB year for all !

Spoilbord !
Rik, I greatly appreciate your feedback and explaining your experience.
Coincidence, I was also going to give a though on drilling through those cross bearers!!!
Using the old one is out of my spectrum of possibilities as…..it’s not in a reusable size anymore….broken !!!
Some other alternatives I’m starting to give a thought, is in making a gage ‘bar’ for each x-bearers, ID-ing each hols for each individual x-beares !....but to many gages!!!
Also, maybe going with making / buying a digi probe and….digitize the complete pattern in order to…..have the beast ( or another machine) making those holes ?!?

Anyway…..as we can see, many alternative are possible, but through all these, I’m still interested in reading some OTHER one from mates !!!
Robert
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  #201  
Old Wed 26 December 2012, 09:25
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
I drilled all the way thru both legs of the c channel cross bearers for this reason.
I used a 3/16 pilot hole for both legs, then tapped the top member.
Every time I have replaced the MAIN spoilboard, I just put the new board down, lay down on a mechanics creeper and roll around drilling holes... Easy and quick.

The link to my old build thread is here:
http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showt...5&postcount=32
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  #202  
Old Wed 26 December 2012, 10:11
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
We drilled the holes up through the support board at an angle to miss the lower lip of the channel. The small angle does not cause a problem to tighten the screw into the wood. (The taper of the lip makes the nut sit flat against the face.)
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  #203  
Old Wed 26 December 2012, 14:28
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Sean, thanks for this reminder !!
if I had to redo my x-bearers, I would absolutely consider your option !
My present holes are, from what I can remember, +/- 3/8’’…..a tab to big at this point to….tap

Gerald, allow me to question this once more !( some may have before ?)
If I get this, you pilot hole the board from the underside in order to…tap the board ?
If you tap this board, does those screws holds in this fiber board enough....or you went with a multi-ply ?
Thanks for confirming as I may just use this option, which initially to my thought a few days ago sounded out of the question !

Last edited by Robert M; Wed 26 December 2012 at 14:30..
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  #204  
Old Wed 26 December 2012, 14:39
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Look at drawing 10 10 000 A where it shows the bolting method.
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  #205  
Old Wed 26 December 2012, 16:13
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Gerald, MMmm How to explain myself accordingly !!
From your post #202, I assumed you were suggesting another approach vs the one in the drawing 10 10 000a,
I though it may get complicated to then drill the oversize hole “in an angle” to accommodate the lager head of this carriage bolt.
All this ‘angle’ confusion of mine, came to me after reading “The small angle does not cause a problem to tighten the screw into the wood “ (The taper of the lip makes the nut sit flat against the face.)”
Thks
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  #206  
Old Wed 26 December 2012, 23:20
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
This is a very low-tech joint, pulling some "wood" against steel. It is not important that the screw is in a precise position, or that the screw is exactly vertical. Two things create some angles:
- the taper flange of the channel where the nut applies its force
- drilling from the bottom, inside the channel, if you miss the bottom flange you have to drill at an angle to go through the top flange.

Those two angles are in the same direction, so they "help" each other a little....

Yes, it does seem crude, but nothing more complicated is needed.

If you don't like the angles, follow the SMReish method and drill a matching hole in the lower flange of the cross beam.
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  #207  
Old Thu 27 December 2012, 07:30
cleyte
Just call me: Clayton #106
 
Bishop's Falls, Newfoundland
Canada
Or:

1. Place/clamp the sheet in its location,
2. Use a sharp but short pencil to copy the hole locations to the sheet
3. Slide the sheet ahead (or flip it over) and drill
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  #208  
Old Thu 27 December 2012, 08:34
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
So true Clayton - this subject is really quite simple and clear thinking like yours will triumph. Thanks.
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  #209  
Old Thu 27 December 2012, 09:05
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Clayton, thanks !
This option of your was actually the way I did mine initially, because my base design ( see this drawing) make it uncomfortable to very difficult to work and maneuver with ease from the underside of this support board.

All this exercise and this group contribution to my call is very interesting and WELL appreciated.
Bottom line, because of my particular restrictions by design and build…..I can see there will not be any easier / better route !
I shall follow up with some pics !
Later
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  #210  
Old Thu 27 December 2012, 14:24
danilom
Just call me: Danilo #64
 
Novi Sad
Serbia
short pencil and sliding was my method too
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