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  #31  
Old Sun 10 July 2011, 05:05
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Ho Ho Ho !! I figured I better at least get that skate down to you as fast as your build is going. I don't want to break your stride !! Keep those pictures coming !!!
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  #32  
Old Sun 10 July 2011, 20:02
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
Thanks Mike, that was quick service. I'm working on the skate today. Have all the X rails drilled and taped. I should be able to finish the skate after work tomorrow and get the ginding done.

If any one close by is interested, I'm finished with the metal stands which I built my frame on. I'm asking $100. They are built from 5" square tubing with 1 inch leveling bolts. These are real heavy duty and will support a lot of weight. Will post pics if interested.
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File Type: jpg 100_2168.jpg (78.6 KB, 1313 views)
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  #33  
Old Mon 11 July 2011, 20:54
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
Got started grinding my X rails this afternoon. It was going pretty good till the grinder decided to let the smoke out. I got them down to 2mm but will have to get a new grinder to finish them. This is about as much fun as watching grass grow
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File Type: jpg 100_2171.jpg (83.6 KB, 1279 views)
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  #34  
Old Tue 12 July 2011, 01:38
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
So you got the magic smoke released!
I reckon they are making steel better than they used to...
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  #35  
Old Tue 12 July 2011, 02:50
Kobus_Joubert
Just call me: Kobus #6
 
Dalview
South Africa
Send a message via Yahoo to Kobus_Joubert Send a message via Skype™ to Kobus_Joubert
Go buy a cheap angle grinder...retain the slip...grind your rail...if you see smoke take it back and carry on with the replacement until it smokes...return it and carry on..and on and on.....
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  #36  
Old Tue 12 July 2011, 06:06
bradm
Just call me: Brad #10
 
Somerville(MA)
United States of America
Yep, angle grinders are consumables. Figure about one grinder per ten disks

Actually, if you want to baby your grinder, the issue is that they simply aren't designed for continuous operation. I used gel packs from the freezer with my second grinder; grind until the motor casing is hot, slap a gel pack on it and do something else for 15 minutes, repeat. But then I like my Milwaukee; I didn't care much about the Harbor Freight that I burned up.
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  #37  
Old Tue 12 July 2011, 06:20
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Are you using 36 grit sand paper disks or grinder disks to knock down the 45" degree chamfer?
The sand paper disk with a rigid back goes much quicker......Then the final passes with a real grinder disk.

Good luck....

(I have burned up 2 little grinders in my 3 builds!) LOTS of experience doing "the task"
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  #38  
Old Wed 13 July 2011, 17:50
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
Went to Wally World this afternoon and picked up a new grinder. Lifetime warranty just bring it back. They carry Skill, but when I got home I found it would not fit in the hole of the skate. I'll try Marvins or one of the auto parts stores tommorow.

Sean, I used the hard grinding discs. At first I was having problems with it removing metal with each pass. When I looked at the disc I noticed that metal particles were imbeded. Replaced with a new disc and was working great. I could tell a 100% improvement and could tell it was removing metal with each pass. The grinder was loaded with the first pass then it would unload with the next pass before adjusting again. My poor little Black & Decker just wasn't up to all of the passes
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  #39  
Old Thu 14 July 2011, 07:02
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
I wrote a little "essay" on the art of grinding the rails down.

IF you TIP the grinder, so the leading edge of the disk is lower than the back (thus had the adjustment screw on the skate lower in the front and higher in the back) the cutting goes quicker without loading the disk material up. Also, the grinder disk doesn't glaze.
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  #40  
Old Thu 14 July 2011, 20:27
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
Thanks Sean I'll give it a try. I picked up a Dewalt grinder after work and discovered it had no mounting screws on the disc side so I took it back and got a Black & Decker. I made one pass on one rail, started to make a second pass and the smoke came out I had another grinder in the shop but the diameter was about 1/2" larger than the hole. I figured I'd butcher the skate and if it didn't work I'd buy another from Mike. Got to keep Mike happy So far so good. I was able to finish the X rails tonight. Will do the Y rails this Saturday and mount casters on the bottom of the table. I should be able to leave them on and be able to adjust my leveling feet down and level the table without having to remove the casters.
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  #41  
Old Fri 15 July 2011, 07:40
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Pawn Shops are a good place to get grinders. I got one the other day for 40 bucks and it is a Milwalkee. I guess I need to offer a line of grinders
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  #42  
Old Fri 15 July 2011, 07:47
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
IMHO, its not the grinder problem... Pushing anything too hard too far for too long will guarantee magic smoke.

My grinder survived the rail grinding ordeal & still provide reliable service today.

Just don't let the spark trail go any longer than 3ft, everything will be dandy.
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  #43  
Old Sat 16 July 2011, 21:23
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
I got my casters mounted today, now I'm able to move the MM around and I can get it outside to prime and paint. Got the Y rails and clamp strips drilled. I'll grind them tomorrow. Will try the sand paper glued to a disc.
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  #44  
Old Sun 17 July 2011, 03:35
Alan_c
Just call me: Alan (#11)
 
Grabouw (Western Cape)
South Africa
Send a message via Skype™ to Alan_c
Gary, nice work.

one suggestion, weld plates on the sides of the U that the wheels are bolted to, hit one small bump while moving the machine sideways and they could fold over.

The sandpaper is not glued to the disk, use the standard sanding disk but have a grinding disk as a backup not the normal rubber back up pad one would use with the sanding disks.
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  #45  
Old Sun 17 July 2011, 18:19
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
Thanks for the suggestion on the wheel mounts Alan. I went back and looked at them and I beleive they will hold up. They are about 3/16" thick, three times thicker than the casters. The casters will probably fail first. I rolled the frame around the shop over the expansion joints in the concrete and didn't notice any flex in the mounts or the casters. I probably will never move it once I set it up.

I couldn't find any sanding discs with backers of any kind that would fit the grinder (not much places in town to buy from, I usually have to travel about 60 miles to find anything).

I did finish grinding my Y rails and both the X & Y rails are finished and I'm pleased with the results. I'm realy glad that part is over. Hopefully the laser cut kit from Mike will arive soon so I can get most of the mechanical assembly finished. I have ordered my V-rollers from Rick at Superior Bearing with the bushings. I ordered extra concentric and ecentric bushing with the idea of using them on the gantry and Y car. I haven't seen anyone do this and without seeing the gantry and Y car I don't know if it will work, but I will have the bushings just in case.

What has everyone been using to clean the bare metal with before priming and painting? The coating on the metal is really nasty and I'll be glad to get it cleaned and primed. My wife will be happy when my clothes are a little cleaner after working in the shop.

Thanks to Gerald for the great plans. It really saves time and money by not having to do it by trial and error. I'll really need this group when I start with the electonics. I'm trying to decide which steppers (will use 3-1 belt reduction) to get. My plan is to use the PMDX 126, Geckodrive G203V, and An AnTek prebuilt power supply.

Thanks, Gary
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  #46  
Old Sun 17 July 2011, 20:39
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Gary ,

I can assist you on the electrics also. Just let me know. I have wire, 20x20x10 box, DIN rails etc. I also have motors and can get all the other items.
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  #47  
Old Sun 17 July 2011, 23:25
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Mill scale can be a headache in your case, if you are an idealist, you can sand blast the scale off to white metal, but IMHO, don't see any benefit in doing anything more than a quick power brush.
For metal preparation, I gave the steel a power brush treatment with my trusty grinder, blow-off the dust & debris with a blow gun than rub it down with soap water+rag, & finally paint thinner+rag to remove possible oil stains.
For the electronics, if you are like me, an electronic idiot, you should read up as much as you could while waiting for the laser parts... Even if you buy a complete kit for the electronics, you'll still need to do plenty of learning before getting on the way.
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  #48  
Old Mon 18 July 2011, 06:00
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
You can wash it down with a degreaser like GUNK. Or wipe it down with some other solvent like Paint Thinner. When you get to painting I always recommend a smalll foam roll brush and a small plastic paint cut. This way you con toss the disposables at the end of each day.
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  #49  
Old Mon 18 July 2011, 22:10
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
Thanks for the metal prep info. I plan to do some priming this coming weekend. My 2 X 4 tubing for the gantry came in this afternoon so I will pick it up after work tomorrow.

Mike, I'll get with you soon on the electronics. Which motors do you stock? Also any date when the laser cut parts will be in?

The photo is a test cut I did tonight into a scrap piece of 24" X 16" plywood. I will do the final cut into a piece of oak the same size but about 2" thick. The person I'm cutting it for is going to inlay it into a church kitchen counter top. I drew it up in VCarve Pro and used a 60 degree v-bit and a 1/4" spiral end mill. With the MM I can do much larger projects

Gary
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File Type: jpg 100_2193.jpg (69.0 KB, 1158 views)
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  #50  
Old Thu 21 July 2011, 20:34
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
I'm going to cut my Y tubing tomorrow after work and would like to verify the cut lenght.

My measurement from outside edge to outside edge of the C channel on the table is 66" (Y cutting width 49" + 17" = 66").

If I'm reading the drawing correctly for the Y tubing cut (Y cutting width 49" + 19.7" =68.7").

I shoud cut them to a lenght of 68.7" (68.75"). That is 2.75" wider than the outside measurement of the C channels.

I just don't want to cut a $85.00 tube too short, plus the fact it was ordered for me because it was not a stock item where I purchased it from.

Thanks
Gary
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  #51  
Old Thu 21 July 2011, 21:14
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Gary,
You are on the right track. the Y-tubes length are correct.
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  #52  
Old Sat 23 July 2011, 20:20
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
Friday evening UPS drove up and delivered the laser cut kit from Mike and the V-rollers from Superior Bearings. Thanks guys. I built the grantry and Y-car today and hope to get the cable brackets mounted and start on the paint tomorrow. Any volunteers for the painting, I hate to paint. Here are a few pics.
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  #53  
Old Sun 31 July 2011, 12:57
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
Talking

Finished painting my main pieces this past week but haven't done any work this weekend. My wife just retired and is doing hand turned pottery full time now. We ordered a tent this past week for her to use at craft shows and we decided to practice putting it up Sat. morning. Well in the process of assembling the poles I pulled my back and can't hardly move around.

I did a post in the motor section today to get feed back on my selections. Feel free to comment. I don't want to make an expensive mistake on things I don't know about.

I just noticed that I have the grantry turned the wrong way
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  #54  
Old Sun 31 July 2011, 15:35
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Purdy . Take care of that back !!!
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  #55  
Old Mon 01 August 2011, 20:10
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
Here is a list of materials used on my build so far:

1 ea: 8" C-Chanel........................Top Supports

3 ea: 3" C-Chanel........................Spoil Board Support

1 ea: 2" Sq Tubing 1/4" wall thickness...................Legs

7 ea: 1-1/2" Sq Tubing.......................Framing

1 ea: 2" X 4" Tubing...........................Granty

2 ea: 2-1/2" X 2-1/2" X 1/4" Angle Iron (couldn't get 2-1/2 X 2).........Rails

Scrap pieces for closing 8" C-Chanel 1/4" thick

Scrap pieces for bottom of legs 3/8" thick

Scrap 5" tubing cut in half for casters to bolt to

4 ea: all metal medium duty casters

Laser cut kit and belt reducer plates from Mike

V-Rollers from Superior Bearings
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  #56  
Old Fri 05 August 2011, 17:23
servant74
Just call me: Jack
 
Nashville (Tennessee)
United States of America
Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalHead View Post
P... I guess I need to offer a line of grinders
Yep, either that never ware out or a GUARANTEED for at least 2 MM builds
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  #57  
Old Fri 05 August 2011, 17:37
bradm
Just call me: Brad #10
 
Somerville(MA)
United States of America
Hmm. I'm thinking maybe a water cooling setup for the grinder that can be reused for the spindle once the machine is built?

Or a spindle based grinder for getting the job done in a third the time?

(Safety note: never exceed the rated speed of a grinding disk or cutting wheel, they can become shrapnel).
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  #58  
Old Sun 07 August 2011, 20:47
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
Water cooled grinder sounds like the way to go. I need water cooling for myself, it's just too hot to do much. I got a little more done today, rail stops made and installed, idler bearing shaft made and the six standoffs for the Z plate bearing.

Mike, if you read this do you know the center to center dimension between the stepper pulley and the driven pulley in the belt reducer plates I got from you? I calculated 2-7/8 inches with them close together before tensioning.

Gary
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  #59  
Old Mon 08 August 2011, 03:54
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
In the typical spindle, the only copper windings are in the stator coils and the water jacket can be close to that - water cooling works here.

In a budget hand grinder, the rotor is also wound with copper wire, and you can't get water cooling in there.

Simply buy high quality grinders with high rated power outputs and then don't overload them. The folk who have burned grinders are in the minority - most of us don't burn them.
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  #60  
Old Mon 08 August 2011, 04:06
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Any grinder can last for ever, as long as you don't over load them or dip them into a bucket of water for cooling...
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