#121
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Cool - did you have any issues indexing the angle ?
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#122
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Mike, no problems at all. Well at least on the 2 foot piece. Today I did my first 8 foot piece rail and for some reason the first and last 2 feet just didnt work out great. I ended up having steps. I even supported the other end and still had the same results. So I will be making the skate tomorrow and calling this the roughing pass.
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#123
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Russell, Nice to hear you've got the controller all figured out, but we need an update on the rest of the build. Hope all is going well...
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#124
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Mike everything is going great here. I have cut down all the angle and will start grinding the 45's on all the rails this weekend. I have also cut the legs to size and all the cross members. I might even get in some welding this weekend if I can put the Honey Do list on hold.
I do have something to share though. If you are looking for some rock solid sawhorse you should really build these. Each Saw horse breaks down into 3 pieces for easy storage. My Father taught me how to build these when I was a kid and I made a set for grinding and welding the table up, that way I dont have to bend over all day. It will easily support a 8ft x 8ft area. Pictures will show the story. Pdf. plans attached. Last edited by Regnar; Fri 04 June 2010 at 18:33.. |
#125
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Thanks !!!
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#126
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Russell outstanding once again. I like that design very much. I was actually drawing some up too off some plans I bought for a knock-down version... I guess I should share it also but it is for light duty stuff and stores conveniently on a wall... You just have to miter the bottom of the feet 11degrees so they lean inward. Hope that helps...
Thanks once again for sharing that brother. . . |
#127
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Jessy, that will not slot together unless you can bend the sides, or the slots are sloppy - because the slots are not parallel from one side to the other.
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#128
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The Honey Do list could not be ignored so I had only a few hours.
Setting up the Skate took a lot longer than expected. There is a lot of nuts and bolts holding the thing together. On my skate I welded a bearing on one end and use a bolt on the other end. With the eccentrics tight against the rails I was having some serious issues with lifting and sinking of the skate. So much that it would stop the skate dead in its track or lift it completely off the rail. With them loosened up a bit I had no problems at all. The skate still balanced fine and slid down the rails easier. I cant remember where I read it but use a sanding disk on top of a grinding disk. I used 24 grit and the removal rate was just plain awesome. There was very little wear at all on the sanding disk. This was so quick that I didnt even bother locking down the adjustment bolt until I got close to final passes. I have been extremely impressed with my grinder. I bought it for 9.99 US from Harbor Freight. I had to make no modification to the skate to make this work. I didnt even need to make or use spacers. I just bolted straight on with m4x25 bolts. I have used up 2 sets of brushes though but I wont lie I have not been nice to this little grinder. When cutting down the rails I ran it for 3 straight hours went and had lunch then sanded down the 2 rails that I tried milling. This was probably 4 and half hours with a 30 minute break. The bearings sound like they might be going but I also bought another one just in case. I have a 90 day warrantee so it will get switched out for a new one Link to grinder http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...der-91223.html I do not recommend their cutting disk. http://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of...tal-45430.html I used all 10 of them to get through half a rail. I went to Home Depot and got Norton Metal cutting disk and it cut faster and used less disk. About 1 and half for each rail. But cutting time was about 30-40 minutes for each rail. Here is a pictures of the first rail I cut. I still have 3 more to go. This one took me about 40 minutes of grinding. The bearing fits very nice and snug to the rail. I think the other rails will be a little quicker as I took it kinda easy on this one. |
#129
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Russell,
The build is looking good. Thanks for sharing the plans for the saw horses. |
#130
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Russell,
That looks about right. Good work. |
#131
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Russell, Nice to see your still in the saddle. Good work on the rails. Being at least an amateur machinist, are you convinced that the skate is the best method for producing the rails? Even with the small "step" in your test rail, might you not have ended up with a more accurate rail using your mill? Thanks for the saw horse plans, they are outstanding, and I will be building a pair. Mike
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#132
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Mike, I think the problem with using the mill was I was actually tilting the knee with the angle. Its hard to line up supports and with the knee and especially when you raise and lower the knee to move to a new section of angle. Hope that makes sense.
There might be a better way out there or someone with more experience might make the mill work for them. But I do have to say the skate was simple, effective and with a little music and hearing protection kinda relaxing. Mike you wont regret building the sawhorses. They are built like brick $#!^ houses. |
#133
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Rails are finally ground down!!!!!
It wasnt hard and it didnt take a lot of energy. For the remaining rails it took 43 minutes for a 12ft and 34 and 22 minutes for 2 8ft rails. The last rail I might have got a little agressive with the grinder. It still turns but all of its grease decided to be on the outside of the grinder. Not to bad for a cheap grinder. I will use the other grinder for the rest of the build. I used a new fresh sanding disk on each rail. I could have gotten away with 2 but I bought a 5 pack and decided it was just simple enough to change out the disk. I only used the grinding disk that came with the grinder and it still looks brand new. I am very happy with the results and the rails came out a lot better than I thought they would have. Dont be scared of grinding the rails it simple "Easier than the Electronics" |
#134
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impeccable finishing! Good Job!
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#135
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Russell you forgot to do mine too so your not quite finished yet...
Good Job indeed... |
#136
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...and that's the beauty of the skate grinder. Cheap and quick with expert finish. Nice work.
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#137
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As they say, "the proofs in the rails." And after all, the skates a whole lot cheaper than a mill...
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#138
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Did a little welding today. I didnt get far as I ran out of wire and the stores were already closed. But I did get one of the sides welded up.
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#139
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Russell,
What you got welded looks great! You will be cutting soon. |
#140
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..wow, that looks heavy! (and straight)
nice |
#141
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Thanks Nils, Next week starts my vacation so I am hoping to have everything rolling at the end of next week.
Sean, its not completely straight. The center leg is dead on but the other 2 legs are about 1/10 a degree out of square. Everything was dead on until I started to apply heat. Yep there is some weight there. Each leg is 27 pnd and the main beams are 150. So about 231pnds plus bracing for each side. The sawhorses are laughing at it. |
#142
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From my experience with fabrication of many MM with various structures for the table, you will enjoy that extra mass when cutting some very dense materials.
Enjoy the fun. Sean |
#143
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Looks Good Russell! I enjoyed working with the I-beams as well. I just finished up the last little bit of welding on my MM. I had just enough gas in the bottle to do the whole machine, so was pleased.
Good progress! Nice saw horses too! Travis |
#144
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Well she is on all six of her legs. I was able to find out that concrete floor is not a level plane.
Now for the fun part. I need to find out how far the angle is suppose to stick over the c channel. Subtract that from the I-beam and add it to all the cross supports and y axis. Now where did I put that book with the plans. |
#145
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...angle hangs roughly 3/4" nominally. The rack is 1/2" and should leave you that 1/4" to play with to straighten out the structural shape (C). Since your using a flat flange W shape, you should find the gap is pretty consistent.
Have fun. Building note: IF you question the width of the 2x4 tube for the Y-axis, add just a little. The bearings can be spaced back with washer and precision shims. To short, and you are adding new tube! Good luck. Sean |
#146
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Sean, anything extra added to those tubes will move the gear pinions further off the y-motor shafts.
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#147
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...and I forgot about that point. Thanks Gerald.
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#148
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Well guys I dont think I will be updating for awhile. Today I was installing the cross supports. I wanted to make sure everything was going to line up and used Vice grip clamps to attach them. Well anyway the whole thing started to look like the bridge that went down in Washington State and I was in the middle. One of the C channel landed on my right foot and one of the main beams landed on top of it. All I can say is thank god for steel toe shoes. I am almost positive I would have lost my toes if I was in sneakers or flip flops. I still ended up crushing the big toe and fracturing 2 others. No walking for a week and doc says it will be a few week after that before I am normal.
Moral of the story. Wear steel toed shoes. Make sure the big stuff is supported. Link to bridge that went down in Washington if you guys have never seen it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j-zczJXSxnw |
#149
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Russell,
Sorry to hear you injured yourself. Hope you recover very soon. |
#150
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Russel, Hope you have a speedy recovery.
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