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  #31  
Old Mon 09 December 2013, 11:07
Richards
Just call me: Mike
 
South Jordan, UT
United States of America
The wiring diagram posted on November 30 is incorrect if the 4-wire diagram is used (assuming that the diagram for the 8-wire connection is correct).

I don't have a 34HS9801 motor, so I can't tell you which wires to connect. It is easy to find out how the motor is wired if you use a multimeter. Start by connecting one lead of the multimeter to the Red wire and the other lead to the yellow wire. If the diagram is correct, you should get a low resistance reading. If the diagram is not correct, then you will need to connect one lead of the multimeter to each of the other wires until you find a wire that gives a low resistance reading. When you find the correct wire, you have found the two wires to use for the "A" coil. The next step is to verify which other wires are part of the "A" coil. In the November 30 diagram, the Red, Yellow, Blue and Black wires are shown to be connected to the "A" coil. Connect your multimeter to the Red and the Black wires. Twist the leads from the Yellow and Blue wires together. You should get a low resistance reading, if the diagram is correct. Go through the same process for the "B" coil.

Assuming that the diagram is correct, you would connect the Red wire to the PHASE A terminal on the G203v, the Yellow wire to the PHASE /A terminal, the White wire to the PHASE B terminal and the Orange wire to the PHASE /B terminal. If the motor turns in the wrong direction, exchange the White wire and the Orange wire.

The 34HS9801 motor is rated at 4A. The correct resistor is about 60K 1/4-watt. Any standard resistor that is within 10% of 60K would work. Using less resistance lowers the maximum amps that the G203v will allow. Using more resistance will increase the maximum amps that the g203v will allow. BE CAREFUL, allowing too much current to flow with greatly increase the temperature of the motor and the G203v. Connect one end of the resistor to one Current Set terminal and the other end of the resistor to the other Current Set terminal.

The 34HS9801 motor is rated at 4.1mH inductance. That means that you can use a power supply that produces 64VDC maximum. I recommend a power supply that is 10% less, because of heat, but I don't have that motor so I cannot tell you how hot it will run at 64VDC. Many stepper motors are rated to run at 80-degrees Centigrade. I like to run motors at a maximum of 55-degress Centigrade so that I don't burn my fingers if I touch the motors.

Going back to the diagram. If the diagram is correct, you would put tape or some other insulation on the Blue wire, the Black wire, the Brown wire and the Green wire. Those wires will not be used. They must not touch anything.

To make wiring simple, I crimp an insulated ferrule on to the end of each wire and then I connect each wire to a terminal block.

I'm attaching a photo showing an OrientalMotor PK296-F4.5A motor connected to a terminal block.

Last edited by Gerald D; Sun 05 October 2014 at 14:25..
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  #32  
Old Wed 11 December 2013, 14:47
hevertg
Just call me: Hevert
 
maracaibo
Venezuela
thanks tom, mike connect: the connection of cables is 34HS9801 //A RED A-YELLOW// B WHITE B- ORANGE// and all well test and.

I'm using a font, PS-63NR12

Last edited by hevertg; Wed 11 December 2013 at 14:50.. Reason: PS-63NR12
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  #33  
Old Sat 27 September 2014, 22:27
hevertg
Just call me: Hevert
 
maracaibo
Venezuela
help please

relived hello, good friends start again slowly, I'm making the holes that grip angle rail, tomorrow I hope to finish them, to assemble the table.

I also get my pmdx 122, that burned the last time because the power supply instead of giving 17v and 12v gave me the pdmx burn, and my repaired for free, just had to pay shipping from Venezuela.

now mount all the wiring again on my test box but can not get the motors to rotate, see photos here who can help me thanks and regards to this beautiful community XD.








I hope that the images are not very large

Last edited by hevertg; Sat 27 September 2014 at 22:56.. Reason: image
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  #34  
Old Sat 27 September 2014, 23:43
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
WOW!!! The most impressive test box to date!

Do you mind sharing where you get your relay board? and its detail.
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  #35  
Old Sun 28 September 2014, 00:27
hevertg
Just call me: Hevert
 
maracaibo
Venezuela
Smile Hi Ken

Hi KenC thanks. Clearly I can

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Channel-12...item339061e119
no installation diagram with 3-wire NPN and this kind of realy

if you buy it help me configure mine lol. because I aller turning head explode as installing and neutralize if reaches its limit.
can you give me a brief: Explanation? what function do the NPN and the resulting pin? pause the process? the driver turns off? shuts down the whole system?
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  #36  
Old Sun 28 September 2014, 02:31
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
The connection for NPN NC proxi swith is somewhere in this forum... I don't keep track of the info since I am not in any hurry to install mine...
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  #37  
Old Sun 28 September 2014, 03:27
racedirector
Just call me: Bruce #122
 
New South Wales
Australia
Its here, I am using Seans diagram that works perfectly. Have a look here....

http://mechmate.com/forums/showthrea...0&postcount=71
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  #38  
Old Sun 28 September 2014, 03:58
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Haven't seen that diagram in a while. One small error on that ... It's really only 12vdc and blue line is ground not -12vdc....which would be a 24vdc differential. Still works perfectly after 7 years on number 28
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  #39  
Old Sun 28 September 2014, 23:33
hevertg
Just call me: Hevert
 
maracaibo
Venezuela
Today progress

Today progress
I hope to see it up tomorrow XD







progress today, rail hole X

and my motors move, tomorrow I'll post a short video running, I'm very happy to finally get started on my project MechMate, thanks for the friend helps and I hope you can help me more, to be the future of others thanks
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  #40  
Old Tue 30 September 2014, 00:26
hevertg
Just call me: Hevert
 
maracaibo
Venezuela
hello, more advancement and iron

hello, more advancement and iron





my table will be ready soon
and a video of my box contro working.

http://youtu.be/ce4rFFIOIH8
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  #41  
Old Tue 30 September 2014, 00:36
hevertg
Just call me: Hevert
 
maracaibo
Venezuela
video NPN 4 module realys

Quote:
Originally Posted by KenC View Post
The connection for NPN NC proxi swith is somewhere in this forum... I don't keep track of the info since I am not in any hurry to install mine...
hello ken watch this video, do not know if the connection is good, help me if wrong XD

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9IVD...ature=youtu.be
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  #42  
Old Tue 30 September 2014, 05:56
Duds
Just call me: Dale
 
Canberra
Australia
Awesome work, Hevert! I have a bit of friendly competition for next number

@Ken thank Arduino's and Raspberry Pi's for those relays. They are extremely cheap and plentiful on eBay and available in 4, 8 and 16 channel versions.
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  #43  
Old Wed 01 October 2014, 22:38
hevertg
Just call me: Hevert
 
maracaibo
Venezuela
hi dale, and you started yours? pass me the link to see your progress and help along the way XD
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  #44  
Old Fri 03 October 2014, 12:59
hevertg
Just call me: Hevert
 
maracaibo
Venezuela
progress



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  #45  
Old Sat 04 October 2014, 22:44
hevertg
Just call me: Hevert
 
maracaibo
Venezuela
Hello, I start the new MechMate. Here I will report progress

that would be my number MechMate? hahaha
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  #46  
Old Sat 04 October 2014, 22:54
hevertg
Just call me: Hevert
 
maracaibo
Venezuela
soldier?



or screw?




I can both ways but what would be the best?

Thank you
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  #47  
Old Sun 05 October 2014, 06:45
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
I would weld it. Screws could come loose.
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  #48  
Old Sun 05 October 2014, 12:30
servant74
Just call me: Jack
 
Nashville (Tennessee)
United States of America
images seem to be missing.
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  #49  
Old Wed 08 October 2014, 14:38
hevertg
Just call me: Hevert
 
maracaibo
Venezuela
conection splinder VFD

Hi guys, I need help please. I'm trying my Spindler VFD but in 400Hz max rev is 11520 rpm.

it may be happening?

so what I have connected

splinder 2.2kw



I hope you can help me thanks

Last edited by hevertg; Wed 08 October 2014 at 14:42.. Reason: imagen
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  #50  
Old Wed 08 October 2014, 15:18
hevertg
Just call me: Hevert
 
maracaibo
Venezuela
thanks already fixed. I needed to configure the VFD

VFD Setup:
Change PD001 to '0' (source of run commands)
Change PD003 to 300 (main frequency - Hz)
Change PD004 to 300 (base frequency - Hz)
Change PD005 to 400 (max operating frequengy - Hz)
Change PD006 to 2.5 (intermediate frequency - Hz)
Change PD008 to 220 (max voltage - V)
Change PD009 to 15 (intermediate voltage - V)
Change PD010 to 8 (minimum voltage - V)
Change PD011 to 100 (frequency lower limit - Hz)
Change PD142 to 7 (rated motor current - Amps)
Change PD143 to 2 (motor pole number)
Change PD144 to 3000 (rated motor revolution)
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  #51  
Old Thu 09 October 2014, 02:24
Fox
Just call me: Fox
 
Amsterdam
Netherlands
Good you fixed it yourself. There's a lot to learn.
You also want to hook it (your vfd) up to a pwm signal (0-10v) card which in turn is controlled from Mach3, that way you can control your spindle speed by means of Mach3 ( so on the screen of your computer).
Otherwise you need to change speeds from your VFD directly ( which can be annoying when it's built in a box) or with a remote turnknob suited for your VFD ( Gerald used this method his first machine).

Only full speed is no fun when cutting. Different materials/cutters need different feeds and speeds.
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  #52  
Old Thu 09 October 2014, 20:00
hevertg
Just call me: Hevert
 
maracaibo
Venezuela
hello looking for info fox if learned. now thanks for the recommendation, I wonder which card you recommend me to control the speed using Mach3?
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  #53  
Old Thu 09 October 2014, 22:49
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Hevert, as there are just too many factors involved, such as material, tool size, tool materials, finishing requirements, hold-down methods, individual cutting habits,... etc there are really not much to recommend on speed.
You just has to experiment with them.
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  #54  
Old Fri 10 October 2014, 06:06
Duds
Just call me: Dale
 
Canberra
Australia
Hi Hevert, you need the PMDX 106 it will integrate with your PMDX122 card and provide you with PWM control of your spindle VFD. You will lose an axis though for this capability. But I assume your not going to use A or B axis so not really an issue unless you decide you want more axes. Alternatively you could just put a POT on your panel, no computer control but really simple. There's a bunch of other ways to interface with the VFD but these are the most simple. You can also click the VFD control panel out of its socket and make yourself a ribbon to remote mount the VFD panel fascia on the front of your box door. That's not a hard solution but often overlooked.
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  #55  
Old Sun 02 November 2014, 00:18
hevertg
Just call me: Hevert
 
maracaibo
Venezuela
Smile development


My super machine, ugly but works fine.













Apparently the X rails are aligned




between yesterday and today was a lot of hard work, I'm slow because I work alone so I like, I'm glad I'm so nuy if the'll see running before Christmas, God willing.

I hope you like it and go away and my number MechMate lol thanks for this forum, if you would not do any of this
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  #56  
Old Sun 02 November 2014, 09:25
IMMark
Just call me: Mark #119
 
Columbus Ohio
United States of America
Looks good Hevert...keep it up, you will have a number in no time!
Mark
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  #57  
Old Sun 02 November 2014, 10:14
parrulho
Just call me: Paulo #108
 
willemstad
Netherlands Antilles
Hi Hevert, glad to see your progress, now you can't stop. Saludos.
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  #58  
Old Sun 02 November 2014, 11:20
hevertg
Just call me: Hevert
 
maracaibo
Venezuela
Quote:
Originally Posted by Duds View Post
Hi Hevert, you need the PMDX 106 it will integrate with your PMDX122 card and provide you with PWM control of your spindle VFD. You will lose an axis though for this capability. But I assume your not going to use A or B axis so not really an issue unless you decide you want more axes. Alternatively you could just put a POT on your panel, no computer control but really simple. There's a bunch of other ways to interface with the VFD but these are the most simple. You can also click the VFD control panel out of its socket and make yourself a ribbon to remote mount the VFD panel fascia on the front of your box door. That's not a hard solution but often overlooked.

Duds, friend thanks for the advice, I'll keep pending while construction progressed thanks
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  #59  
Old Sun 02 November 2014, 13:14
hevertg
Just call me: Hevert
 
maracaibo
Venezuela
hello friends. Now I'm putting my MM me some errors are coming like (V Groove Guide Bearings) I buy them 3/8. I need the 12mm is that true? I need the 12mm x8? and 6 x 3/8? for Z axis

Thanks I hope you can help me greetings
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  #60  
Old Sun 02 November 2014, 19:22
Duds
Just call me: Dale
 
Canberra
Australia
Hi Hevert 12mm and 1/2" are almost identical. Remember decimal and imperial are abstract concepts you could take measurements in octal or binary or bananas if you wanted to. Get yourself some vernier calipers and measure everything you buy. Ignore the size stamped on the side of drills. Drills are whatever size your vernier says they are. Don't be afraid to ream out and re-tap nuts or threaded holes to suit you. Get yourself an engineers reference or 'black book' or print out some conversion tables and tapping clearance tables.
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