#211
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Wayne
That is one weired looking machine. Did you add the lower motor or is it designed that way? |
#212
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That is so cool Wayne, awesome job! Can I fly it and do a loop? lol
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#213
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Nils - It's designed that way, autogyro's have been around a longtime - remember the MadMax movie
Dave - You can only fly it.....if you do a loop |
#214
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Wow nice job Wayne!
So how is your website doing for you? |
#215
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I like it!!
Nice job. Cheers Tony |
#216
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Cool machine !!!! I'd like to see th MM working on a rotor like that !!!!
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#217
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Nice work! How balanced are the rotors?
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#218
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Thanks Mike, Thanks Tony....the MM is perfect for building models like this.
Steve, 2 of the blades were identical in wieght, the 3rd was only 2grams heavier. Each blade was cut from the same piece of stock (Basswood and balsa), that really helps with material differences. Just a side note: I put the gyro back into kit form this afternoon It's off to the hobbystore to get more wood. |
#219
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Been there, done that, got the T-Shirt So sorry...
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#220
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Some guys might not know that means Crash. Sorry to hear that Wayne. At least we got to see it in all its glory here first.
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#221
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We used to have a black garbage bag with us in the truck in case we put the plane back into KIT form..
Those were the day's |
#222
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Continuing to play with the 4th axis
This is one of my latest MechMate projects; it's part of an animal call my brother ask me to help make. I used this project to push myself to learn and better understand the 4th axis operation.
I have been keeping the MM busy, quite a few projects have been on the machine since my last post...in the future I will try to do a better job posting photo's and such. Wayne |
#223
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Heres a link to a YouTube video showing the 4th axis in action.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6E2ekUN-w_k |
#224
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Nice, have not watched the video,....does not allow me at work..... but does your head swivel ? In the 2nd photo it looks like it is at an angle ?
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#225
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Nice work Wayne. Could you do that piece in lathe mode vs indexer mode? Just wondering if you had done it that way for a particular reason.
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#226
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Hi Kobus,
The cutting head does not swivel, it is mounted vertical. Wayne |
#227
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Liked the video Wayne. Do you have a normal motor on there also to spin and polish up the cutting marks left by the indexer ?
How did you draw that piece and in which cam program. |
#228
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Heath-
Not sure about lathe mode, I am unaware of this feature. To date all of my rotary axis experience has been with indexing. Kobus - I really can not add a highspeed motor to my indexer....it's a converted Sureline rotary table with a 72:1 ratio. That really isn't a problem though, because the resolution is so fine, that I can almost eliminate the mill marks if a small step over is used. Anything left can easily be removed with a light sanding For example, I cut my lithophanes using a .006" step over. This leaves them ready for sale, right from the A-axis...no additional sanding or work is required. |
#229
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Wayne
How did you cut the gyro blades? Any hints on what you learnt? Have you tried a blade that is not flat on the bottom? cheers David |
#230
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New control pendant.
Wow, just noticed the date....been awhile since my last post
Here's a picture of my newly, redesigned pendant. The original has been in service for over a year. I thought I would add a few features and the next thing you know....I have a whole new pendant This is controlled by the Pokey55 device. You can find lots of user discussion over on the Mach3 site. The software took the longest.....worked a bunch of hours to get it to function correctly. Wayne |
#231
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Here is a couple of pictures of my latest project. These are baords for the "Bean Bag Game". We made 9 sets a couple weeks back....great Xmas gifts.
Wayne |
#232
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Pendant looks great Wayne.
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#233
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...hey Wayne, is that a 4th axis already set up laying under the table?
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#234
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Good eyes Sean!
Yep, that's where I store it when not in use. Since it is primarly used for making round litho's, I only install it when I get orders. |
#235
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"Bean Bag Game" I think the proper name is Corn Hole
There are a lot of bars down in Florida that have them along with tournaments. Another popular game is Drunken Jenga or Super Jenga. Now put in a team logo and go tailgating and sell it for a few hundred dollars. I know the sets down here go for good money and there is nothing to them. By the way nice looking pendant. Last edited by Regnar; Tue 30 November 2010 at 18:43.. |
#236
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Yeah, I have heard various names for this game...."corn hole" just seems wrong
I currently sell assembled, unfinished boards, for $80/set. For that price I also engrave their name into cross member between the legs. People like it....adds a nice personal touch. My design allows the use of 1/2" plywood and still have the proper stiffness. The is nice for two reasons; (1) the boards wiegh less, (2) the plywood is cheaper than 3/4" material. |
#237
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Official Rules
Being somewhat unfamiliar with the game, I searched for the rules. I was surprised to find an "official" game organization along with specific rules, construction requirements and competition requirements.
http://www.playcornhole.org/rules.shtml Something I will look to build with my mechmate (in the spring of 2011 - I hope). This forum is certainly a wealth of information! Clayton |
#238
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Yep, I have seen this site before. Infact these boards were designed to conform to the official specifications
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#239
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Inlay - a brief introduction
These picture where taken as I was making a cribbage board for a Christmas gift.
People have ask how these inlays are done, so I thought I would take a few pictures and document the process for those that are interested. Although I am sure there are other methods....this seems to work for me. The basic inlay process starts by creating a pocket file and a contour file of your inlay shape. (ex. cut a 1" square pocket that is .1" deep, than cut a 1" square shape the is .15" thick) It is important that the pocket and shape are exact same size so the shape can be pressed into the pocket. Photo1 you see the first inlays are already placed and sanded. Photo2 cutting the pocket Photo3 the pocket is cut, the shape is ready to be pressed in Photo4 press shape into pocket Photo5 ready for sanding. to be continued.... |
#240
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inlays continued.
Once the shape is pressed into the pocket, I use CA glue (aka crazy glue) to glue the shapes into place. Once complete, I sand down the excess shape material with a belt sander (it sands really quick) Photo1 - you see the shape is sanded and has a perfect fit. Photo2 - the cribbage board is finish sanded and then completed with a little coat of finishing oil. If this process is not clear, please ask questions, I will do my best to provide answers. enjoy, Wayne |
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