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  #331  
Old Mon 30 December 2013, 18:34
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Just out of curiousity, why 14' and not 16'?
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  #332  
Old Mon 30 December 2013, 19:04
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
5 X 12 table, another 2 ft makes it even tighter in the shop, still thinking of adding an indexer to the last bit. You don't find much material at 12 ft as it is. Funny you ask, I thought if I decided to go to larger I'd have to build that much more on the shop
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  #333  
Old Mon 30 December 2013, 19:13
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
I thought maybe two 4x8 sheets.
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  #334  
Old Mon 30 December 2013, 20:19
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Maybe this will make you salivate

From the archives
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  #335  
Old Mon 30 December 2013, 20:19
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Yeah but that would make the cutting surface 16 and the OAL 18, That's Too Much for what I need. For the most part 12' materials are about max, the only thing I've seen longer was marine grade luaun at 16' many years ago. I currently buy 5x12 Sapele faced 20mm marine ply ($400+/- plus freight per sheet) that is imported through Florida). Overall I think 2 MMs would be better.
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  #336  
Old Mon 30 December 2013, 20:24
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Ask your wife, she will tell you that bigger is better is a man thing, personally I think the bigger the better. But you are right, 2 machines would be better as you can make the machine to the process needed.
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  #337  
Old Mon 30 December 2013, 20:25
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
That indexer look pathetically easy to make, even I could do that. Hmmm, I could modify a grizzly lathe, throw it up onto the table, fasten it down and Voila, ready to roll. (sounds easy anyway). I don't think that guy even did that.
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  #338  
Old Mon 30 December 2013, 20:28
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Hey Pete, should I go ahead and level the rails and all that where it sits or should I wait until its moved 20 feet away to the other side of the heap?
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  #339  
Old Tue 31 December 2013, 06:10
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
Wait til you move it to its final position.
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  #340  
Old Wed 01 January 2014, 05:14
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Yeah that's what I thought. Thanks. Happy New Year Everyone! I'll spend some time working on the MM this afternoon.
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  #341  
Old Fri 17 January 2014, 12:17
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Alrighty then, I'm wiring the control panel now and had a question about grounding the shielding to something if anything. Particularly the signal wires. I did my table testing successfully (a long time ago) but grounding wasn't an issue and since then had taken it apart to put away until this day. I don't know if ground loops are created or if a common ground to the box is good. I've looked in several threads and have become more than confused. Please help me find a thread with the info. Thanks
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  #342  
Old Fri 17 January 2014, 12:25
danilom
Just call me: Danilo #64
 
Novi Sad
Serbia
It is good if you connect only one end (preferably at the source, in the box) you can connect them in star (all to one point, common point) but be sure that you have good ground coming from the power lines connected to that same spot only.
On couple of our machines on which build I participated we always made cables from every shield, but have not connected them to anything if not needed. Usually it was not needed, except we always connected spindle cable shield to ground.
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  #343  
Old Fri 17 January 2014, 12:46
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
So you are saying that the connection from the bob to the drivers don't need grounded? Or commonly grounded?
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  #344  
Old Fri 17 January 2014, 12:50
danilom
Just call me: Danilo #64
 
Novi Sad
Serbia
You "should" ground them its a correct way of doing it, always use star grounding.

the quotes on "should" mean that I encountered few situations where the ground was maybe not correctly done in the building and was doing more harm than good transmitting noise all around, so for the time being it worked better without it, until ground issue was resolved.
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  #345  
Old Fri 17 January 2014, 14:25
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
It is a 'Drain'. Therefore it must run from one point to another. If it is connected at 2 points, it will 'Loop' and not Drain. Most people make the common mistake of using the drain wire for the ground at both ends and that should not be. A drain is something different altogether. A Drain captures the noise around the wires and drains it to ground. A ground carries the unbalanced load of a power device. That is why idiots get killed when they cut the copper ground wire at a substation when stealing copper. It carries the unbalanced load.
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  #346  
Old Fri 17 January 2014, 14:47
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
I wasn't quite sure if I needed to for the short runs to the drivers but clear now, thanks guys!
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  #347  
Old Fri 17 January 2014, 15:34
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
Very good description, Pete.
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  #348  
Old Fri 17 January 2014, 20:13
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
This is how its done.
http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=282
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  #349  
Old Fri 17 January 2014, 23:23
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Tom,
The pictures are privately listed, you need to change that in order for them to show up. The link is shown in the notification email that you posted something but is not shown on your thread here.
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  #350  
Old Sat 18 January 2014, 12:51
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Coming along nicely from the pictures in your photostream.
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  #351  
Old Sat 18 January 2014, 14:50
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Sorry about the pictures not showing up, I'll get them to show one time and not the next.

I am still working on the wiring right now but not done, will try to post pics later, maybe, perhaps...
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  #352  
Old Sat 18 January 2014, 16:26
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
try looking at these

http://www.flickr.com/photos/thomas_ayres_jr/
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  #353  
Old Sat 18 January 2014, 17:51
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
Man, that looks cold. Nice trailer
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  #354  
Old Sat 18 January 2014, 19:05
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Thanks, that's a 'dog kennel/shooting brake' that we did for Garden and Gun Magazine. They hosted a hunting show in Charleston in late November. These were taken for reference (memory is getting shorter as I get older). The whole idea of the thing was to take your dogs (up to 4), mount your guns on the side, go into the field, release the hounds, gun down unsuspecting prey, come back to the trailer, pour a glass of scotch from the decanter set (not shown), or glass of wine stored in side cabs, fire up a stogie from the humidor (inside the drawer) in celebration, blah, blah, blah. You get the picture.
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  #355  
Old Wed 22 January 2014, 08:23
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Alright I need opinions, other than 'you're taking a long time on this build Should the spindle power be controlled by the main switch inside the control box with a separate on/off switch & separate contractor, or, just run mains from main power switch to general breaker with/without switch control? Estop? If I run the power through the control box should I run the e-stop off the BOB through a contactor?
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  #356  
Old Wed 22 January 2014, 14:03
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Wow. A lot of questions!
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  #357  
Old Wed 22 January 2014, 14:10
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Since you are in the states, you should use one disconnect to kill all potential to a machine

An emergency stop should kill all dangerous potential unless the disabled potential is more of a hazard than leaving it energized. Air ballast, etc...

Emergency stop should interface with both the BOB via signal and a main line contactor that kill all power to the devices the are required to be disabled per NFPA 79 and UL508.
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  #358  
Old Wed 22 January 2014, 14:57
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
The e-stop stops the pulses to the spindle but not the power, does that count as compliant?
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  #359  
Old Wed 22 January 2014, 15:48
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
The VFD should decelerate and ramp down to 0 Hz. However you are controlling it. It is better to have it ramp down than to allow it to coast in most applications.
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  #360  
Old Wed 22 January 2014, 18:32
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Sorry Tom, I should have explained better. Killing power to a VFD (incoming power) when the VFD is under load can destroy a VFD just as breaking the lines on the load side well running can destroy the VFD. Most brand VFD manufacturer state this in their manuals and have wiring examples supplied for how to handle most basic wiring schemes. Some VFD manufacturers allow external overloads between the VFD and multiple motors but have additional parameters and wiring to accommodate this. TB Woods and Vacon to name some. Hitachi has additional safety features for personnel protection devices.
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