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  #31  
Old Wed 05 February 2014, 11:56
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Mark,
The actually location is really where ever you want to.
To find the shortest usable length, I attached a 2x4 with clamps at the bottom of the c channel and then attached the e-chain to the car. Manually moved back and forth until I found the static link that didn't bend or move. It was about mid point, but slightly beyond to keep the last few links flat on the support bar.

This let me set the correct attachement height of the support bar and length to match the best bend radius of the chain. The bigger the radius, the better for the cables and air line inside e-chain.

Does that make sense?
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  #32  
Old Wed 05 February 2014, 12:05
IMMark
Just call me: Mark #119
 
Columbus Ohio
United States of America
That makes perfect sense!
Thanks so much fir your help. I have ordered the E chain and will wait till I have it in hand.
I am getting close on this thing!!!
Do you think there would be any issues, with putting the stop blocks for the Y rail....in the rail without the rack? Three plans call for them to be on the rail with the each.
Thanks
Mark
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  #33  
Old Wed 05 February 2014, 13:27
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
x rail - 4 stops (2 each side on each end)
y rail - 2 stops only (1 each end)
No problem putting them on now. Make sure to notice that the Y CAR end stops are SHORTER than the ones for the x rail. Welding the wrong ones on will block the car travel. ( I Know how this is a bad thing)
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  #34  
Old Wed 05 February 2014, 14:24
IMMark
Just call me: Mark #119
 
Columbus Ohio
United States of America
Yes, I have the 4 X stops welded on. I have the Y stops made (the right height ). But 1 of my Y rails may need to be remade...so I was hoping to weld them on the other Y rail ( the one without the rack).
I don't see where it would be a problem..but wanted to make sure.
Mark
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  #35  
Old Wed 05 February 2014, 14:36
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
The challenge with using the other side, that is not the driven side by the pinion and will exert excessive yaw on the y-car and cause it to twist when it hits the hard stop.

Put it on the correct side if you can.
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  #36  
Old Thu 06 February 2014, 06:31
IMMark
Just call me: Mark #119
 
Columbus Ohio
United States of America
Got it...Probably smart to file the plans
One more question (at least), on the soil board...can it have a joint in it. I will have 3/4" 5 x 10 support board. But I would like to use 1/2" spoil...and can't get it in 5 x 10 size?
Also on the "extra" space to the sides of the support board, it be filed in with wood to"catch" sawdust?
Mark
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  #37  
Old Thu 06 February 2014, 07:29
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Mark,
Joints are fine.
I used spare pieces of 1/2" MDF on my 3/4" spoil board all the time. A 2'x2 or a 4'x8' then fill in the gaps.
As long as your surfacing the table, and glue the sections down, your fine.

After a bit, you will need to replace that 1/2 part anyway.

You can fill in the side area's, but the reason they exist is so you can use G, C or bar clamps to hold your material to the spoil board.
Unless you are putting in a vac table, or using some other hold down mechanism - leave it open as designed.
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  #38  
Old Thu 06 February 2014, 21:23
IMMark
Just call me: Mark #119
 
Columbus Ohio
United States of America
No vac table yet..perhaps in the future.
I will probably make some removable side boards to fill the gaps. I will be storing things under the table...so I want to keep sawdust out.
Any thoughts on tool holders. I will start out with a Porter Cable router and move to a spindle eventually. My thought is to mount it so the bottom of the collet is just above the bottom of the z plate. That way, when a bit is installed I would have max. amount of travel?
If that makes sense
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  #39  
Old Thu 06 February 2014, 22:35
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Go straight to a spindle if you have the spare cash.
U really don't have to worry about the tool holder position. There are no fix rule in it. Anything that make you happy will do.
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  #40  
Old Fri 07 February 2014, 10:36
IMMark
Just call me: Mark #119
 
Columbus Ohio
United States of America
I would love to start out with spindle...I checked my "spare" cash drawer...2 bottle caps and some dryer lint
I will have to start out with the router, I just really want to get this thing cutting! I am afraid that I may be the first 4 digit MM number
Mark
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  #41  
Old Sun 09 February 2014, 14:38
IMMark
Just call me: Mark #119
 
Columbus Ohio
United States of America
Trying to get the E chains laid out....is it normal for them to extend out past the end of the main x beam (and the end of the gantry) with they machine is at its furthest position?
I mean that the loop of the E chain is what is past the table end.
Mark
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  #42  
Old Sun 09 February 2014, 15:45
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Mine does, whether that is normal or not???? I'm pretty sure it is...
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  #43  
Old Sun 09 February 2014, 18:31
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Yes, That is normal.
You will probably have about 8-10" past depending on your service loop.
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  #44  
Old Mon 10 February 2014, 06:33
IMMark
Just call me: Mark #119
 
Columbus Ohio
United States of America
Thanks Tom and Sean....I couldn't really tell from any pictures that I found.
Moving forward!
Mark
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  #45  
Old Wed 12 February 2014, 05:42
IMMark
Just call me: Mark #119
 
Columbus Ohio
United States of America
I have E chains placed, all looks good. Anything to consider regarding the wire shelf portion that leads the wire going into the chains? I have seen some people use two"pipes" on the Y axis. On the X is it a good idea to have it enclosed, to offer protection?
Thanks
Mark
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  #46  
Old Wed 12 February 2014, 16:19
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Enclosed just helps with the dust and cleaning of machine.
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  #47  
Old Thu 13 February 2014, 17:55
IMMark
Just call me: Mark #119
 
Columbus Ohio
United States of America
Thanks Sean, It must seem like a lot of silly questions....but I appreciate your input!
Mark
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  #48  
Old Fri 14 February 2014, 01:48
Fox
Just call me: Fox
 
Amsterdam
Netherlands
Open support also helps with dust as it can fall trough ( unless you make sure have a sealed dust proof enclosure like a control box, small dust will still travel in all kinds of places). It all depends on how you look at it. I look for efficiency when posed with these questions, which is the quickest to clean option ? I blow my machines with compressed air anyway every now and then, and then all dust will fall trough, with an enclosed box you will have to open it, and if it becomes more difficult to get the dust out, you will just blow it in deeper.
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  #49  
Old Sun 16 February 2014, 13:02
IMMark
Just call me: Mark #119
 
Columbus Ohio
United States of America
Thanks Fox!
That is what I like about discussing things with others that have built or even just planning the build. Always good to get ideas and input from others in my book!
I am sure I will be coming up with some more questions (stupid and otherwise) and I tackle the "electric" side of the build!
Mark
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  #50  
Old Thu 20 March 2014, 09:32
IMMark
Just call me: Mark #119
 
Columbus Ohio
United States of America
If anyone would be so kind as to have a look and make sure that I am on the right track, it would be greatly appreciated!

The setup that I have;
Motor; Kelinginc.com KL34H280-45-8A, Specs.(I plan to wire in Unipolar) 4.5 A, 0.71 ohms, 2.2mH, 8 wire NEMA 34
Drives; Gecko 203V
BoB, PMDX-126
Spur Gear, 25T (Direct drive, however I will be implementing 3:1 or 4:1 belt reduction ASAP).

As I understand the power supply choices; (I am planning to build my own PS)

24*√2.2=36 (Conservative Route)
32*√2.2=48 (Gecko Recommendation)
38*√2.2=56 (Gerald’s Recommendation)

The resulting figures (36,48,56) are VDC. As I look at the toroid transformer (looking at the Antek products), the listing will be for VAC? So that with a 40VAC, I would expect to get 56VDC after rectification?
(40*1.4=56)
For the VA, my motors at 4.5A peak (4 motors) would give me a max amperage draw of 18 amps. Using the 2/3 rule for input amperage to the Gecko’s, I am looking at 12amps max for the input .
(12*56=672VA).

So my questions (assuming that the above understandings are correct) are;
1. Is the listing for the transformers in VAC and the multiplier of 1.4 the expected VDC output?
2. Would a 600VA be sufficient or would I need to go up to the 800VA (Antek does not offer a 700VA)
3. The schematic for the transformer has 40V twice. Do I need to wire this in parallel or series to get the full VA?
4. Any opinions on the number of teeth on the spur gear 20T, 25T or 30T? (Again, this will be direct drive for a short period of time, until the addition of the belt reduction, so my main goal would be for the long term, using it with the belt reduction).
5. Any opinions on the belt reduction, 3:1 versus 4:1

Thanks in advance!
Mark
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  #51  
Old Thu 20 March 2014, 12:44
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
1. its a good approximation. you are not wrong.
2. IMHO, 300VA is enuf power for most MM. 600VA should do the job. even though its better to have more VA in a transformer, but there is always a limit, I always try to keep them smaller than 1 horse power, I'm comfrotable with 1/2~3/4 hp .
3. parallel.
4. 20T for direct drive. pinions are amongst the cheapest parts in the built.
5. Either will do. 3:1 is easier to implement.

hope this helps.
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  #52  
Old Thu 20 March 2014, 12:56
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
I'm doing 24t direct for now, going to 30t with 3.6:1 real soon, my set-up is different 70vac 1100watts, 72 was recommended, I went just under. Steppers - Longs Motors 34HS5850 parallel
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  #53  
Old Fri 21 March 2014, 08:58
IMMark
Just call me: Mark #119
 
Columbus Ohio
United States of America
Thank you Tom and Ken!
I think I may have irritated some people with my questions (sometimes I must ask the same question until I am comfortable that I am doing the correct way, but we all learn in different ways). A big part for me that wasn't "clicking" (and perhaps posting will help others) was that many postings just say "V" for volts, but not designating AC or DC. So ordering the transformer for a 56VDC system, I needed a 40VAC transformer. Perhaps that will help others that are not electrical engineers? At any rate, I have ordered my last electrical components. Hope to be one step closer to a cutting MM!
Thanks again
Mark
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  #54  
Old Fri 21 March 2014, 09:41
IMMark
Just call me: Mark #119
 
Columbus Ohio
United States of America
Any thoughts on the capacitor and rectifiers?
For the capacitors, I was going to use (3) 10,000uF 100VDC wired in parallel.
For the rectifier, I was going to use Bridge Rectifier, 400V, 35A, Lug Leads
I will use 12G wire with crimp on connectors.
Thanks
Mark
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  #55  
Old Fri 21 March 2014, 10:27
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Sounds all good.

I've been running the "roadrunner" mach sample to help me tune and tighten the machine and find that the 24t runs ok but shows up as kind of rough in the cuts which turned out to be attributed to spur clearance of the ycar, the shoulder of the spur was riding on the ycar causing it not to seat 100%. All I did was move the spur inward toward the center of the car, but it goes to show how close the tolerances can be. The 30t seems real common and apparently rolls smoother in public opinion.
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  #56  
Old Fri 21 March 2014, 10:43
IMMark
Just call me: Mark #119
 
Columbus Ohio
United States of America
Thanks Tom
No info on capacitors or rectifiers
Glad you were able to fix your problem and it didn't cost you any more $
Mark
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  #57  
Old Fri 21 March 2014, 11:09
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Mark you should be good on those choices.
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  #58  
Old Fri 21 March 2014, 11:11
IMMark
Just call me: Mark #119
 
Columbus Ohio
United States of America
Thanks Tom...trying to get my orders in before the weekend.
Started building this 13 months ago...now I am worried about getting the order in before the weekend...go figure
Thanks again
Mark
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  #59  
Old Fri 21 March 2014, 13:02
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
I know what you mean, I did the same thing...many times. I just wanted to move along quickly only to find I couldn't keep up with the orders anyway
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  #60  
Old Fri 21 March 2014, 16:41
IMMark
Just call me: Mark #119
 
Columbus Ohio
United States of America
Yeah, I don't know if it is normal with a MechMate build...but my UPS guy has a restraining order against me, I can no longer chase the truck down my driveway and I must remain 20' away from the driver until he unloads my items
Mark
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