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  #31  
Old Sat 16 June 2007, 03:34
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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If you are using pipe for some of the base of your MechMate then this web site will help in making good joints a lot easier. You will only need "Pipe Joint Template page 2". I'm not suggesting PVC here only using the template to make your metal pipe fit better.
Later when you're building the dust collector this program will be very useful too. Thanks J.R.
Tutorial http://harderwoods.com/pipedocs.html
Program http://harderwoods.com/pipetemplate.php
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  #32  
Old Sun 17 June 2007, 14:59
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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I had a little time to spare so I made 78 of these. They made from a piece of scrap 1/2" X 2" X 12" alu. Hole is 5/16". Wedge matches 3" channel.
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File Type: jpg MVC-024S.JPG (38.9 KB, 4605 views)
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  #33  
Old Mon 18 June 2007, 17:52
Marc Shlaes
Just call me: Marc
 
Cleveland, OH
United States of America
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J.R.

Do you know if something like that is commercially available? I had no luck finding it online. What would be the real name besides "tapered washer"?

Marc
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  #34  
Old Mon 18 June 2007, 18:03
Marc Shlaes
Just call me: Marc
 
Cleveland, OH
United States of America
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J.R.,

Nevermind. After my post, I got a little more creative with Google. They are called bevel or beveled washers.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...l.ex?sku=33331
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  #35  
Old Thu 21 June 2007, 20:50
tpworks
Just call me: Tom
 
Atlanta, GA
United States of America
J.R.,
If you make washers from the same angle used and flip them over wouldn't that be the exact bevel required?

Tom

Last edited by tpworks; Thu 21 June 2007 at 20:52..
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  #36  
Old Thu 21 June 2007, 21:27
Marc Shlaes
Just call me: Marc
 
Cleveland, OH
United States of America
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Tom,

That's why two heads are better than one. That is so simple I feel stupid.

Thanks.
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  #37  
Old Thu 21 June 2007, 21:58
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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tpworks that is correct. If you make them this way I would suggest drilling the holes while the material is in one piece then cut it. I made mine from scratch because it was easy working with alu. I cut them using a wood bandsaw with a wood cutting blade, it was fast.
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  #38  
Old Thu 21 June 2007, 22:15
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Either way, making or buying taper/bevel washers can be avoided by using "parallel" flange channels. (Angle iron always has parallel flanges). Parallel flange channel is harder to find than taper flange, especially for the small size, the cross-supports under the table top.

However, because the wooden table top is not screwed as tightly as the steel-to-steel joints, the special washers can be discarded for these joints. In fact, the hexagon nuts against the taper give a detenting locking effect. If you do use taper/bevel washers for these joints, I would suggest self-locking nuts like Nyloc. It is common for these table screws to come loose with vibration and the movement/softness of the wood.
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  #39  
Old Fri 22 June 2007, 01:12
IN-WondeR
Just call me: Kim
 
Randers
Denmark
Instead of nuts and washers, then tap the holes in the main beams, and use loctite when the bolts are screwed in. I have done so on my table, but I have also made it so every crossbearer has 2 bolts in either side... It is very rigid and very stable...
I'll try and take som pictures of my crossbearers when I work a little on the machine tomorrow....
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  #40  
Old Sat 23 June 2007, 10:54
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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Table update. What I know for sure is I AM NOT A WELDER. With that said, my table is tact welded together waiting for the real welder. He will come on Tuesday and can do in 1 hour what would take me 5.
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Last edited by J.R. Hatcher; Sat 23 June 2007 at 11:18..
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  #41  
Old Sat 23 June 2007, 11:05
IN-WondeR
Just call me: Kim
 
Randers
Denmark
...

Looks great, but who is a welder, not me, but still I'm going to weld it myself. And as I write this I have just completed the construction of 36 feet of homemade IPE beams that I'm going to use for building my garage bigger so I can have my mechmate in my garage and alot of other things... :-D
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  #42  
Old Sat 23 June 2007, 11:22
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
J.R., Good progress!

I notice that you added some round pipe just under the table surface to get your diagonals into a flat plane. You may be surprised by this, but the diagonals would be stiffer if they went off the flat plane to the stronger channels instead. I know it doesn't look quite right, but it is still very strong. There are so many angles under the table that your eye doesn't catch that non-flat plane.
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  #43  
Old Sat 23 June 2007, 11:56
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
Send a message via Skype™ to J.R. Hatcher
Just thought this might be of interest. This is a Contour Shuttle Pro II. I have 1 on my cnc wood lathe. It has got to be the best thing I have done to the lathe. A friend is running one on his cnc router, he has about 30' of cable connecting it to the computer. He can walk completely around his machine. He said it is the best thing since sliced bread. Artsoft has made a plug-in for Mach that will let you assign the 15 buttons to almost control you choose + the 2 wheels can be ajusted to your satisfaction (for jogging or moving 1 step at the time). It is even better than having a portable keyboard. I already have one waiting for my MechMate. Regards J.R. ps the caps of the 9 top buttons are removable so a lable can be inserted.

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File Type: jpg MVC-031S.JPG (37.0 KB, 4473 views)
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  #44  
Old Sat 23 June 2007, 12:10
IN-WondeR
Just call me: Kim
 
Randers
Denmark
Nice

What is the price tag for one of those.???
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  #45  
Old Sat 23 June 2007, 12:12
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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Gerald I did consider the weakness of the pipe compared to the channel and came to the conclusion that the Y car wouldn't have enough momemtum to flex the pipe. If it were the entire gantry starting and stoping that would another story. Hope I made the right decision.

Last edited by J.R. Hatcher; Sat 23 June 2007 at 12:19..
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  #46  
Old Sat 23 June 2007, 12:15
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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On e-bay used around US $60. Other places on the internet less than $100 new.
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  #47  
Old Tue 03 July 2007, 17:12
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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Gerald what would you think about adding part # M1 30 123 to the laser cut profiles. It could have the holes and the etched O mark for the location of the bearing stud? Thanks J.R.
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  #48  
Old Tue 10 July 2007, 00:00
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Sure, you could have it laser cut, but it is a very low-tech plate easily made from scrap.
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  #49  
Old Wed 18 July 2007, 20:14
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
Send a message via Skype™ to J.R. Hatcher
Pictures of my most resent progress.
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File Type: jpg MVC-013S.JPG (46.0 KB, 4298 views)
File Type: jpg MVC-015S.JPG (35.7 KB, 4289 views)
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  #50  
Old Wed 18 July 2007, 22:57
Marc Shlaes
Just call me: Marc
 
Cleveland, OH
United States of America
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Stunning!
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  #51  
Old Thu 19 July 2007, 00:02
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
That's an inspiration! Well done!
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  #52  
Old Thu 19 July 2007, 13:57
Greg J
Just call me: Greg #13
 
Hagerman, New Mexico
United States of America
WOW, way cool. Nice work!
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  #53  
Old Thu 19 July 2007, 15:57
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
Send a message via Skype™ to J.R. Hatcher
Next I'm going to enlarge that bald spot on my head
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File Type: jpg MVC-021S.JPG (36.8 KB, 4277 views)
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  #54  
Old Fri 20 July 2007, 07:19
Greg J
Just call me: Greg #13
 
Hagerman, New Mexico
United States of America
J.R.

Are you putting a cable track on the X axis also?

I was thinking about doing the same. When you study the "big boys" machine, they all have very nice cable mangement systems.

Greg
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  #55  
Old Fri 20 July 2007, 08:14
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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Yes the larger track (75" about US $100) will be for the X. I'll post some pictures when I get it done.
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  #56  
Old Sat 21 July 2007, 20:41
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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Some pictures of the cable track. Ya'll might not want to hire me by the hour ..... this took over 12 hours.
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File Type: jpg MVC-028S.JPG (40.6 KB, 4248 views)
File Type: jpg MVC-029S.JPG (44.4 KB, 4245 views)
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  #57  
Old Sun 22 July 2007, 00:40
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
12 hours is not bad for the first one - when you don't have drawings.

I lowered the chain on my Y-axis in case I ever wanted to add a second Y-motor. Yes, the chain then drops a bit below the gantry, but it has never bothered us.

Personally, I would have done the X-axis chain from the other side. The connecting point to the gantry would be nearer the bundle of cables coming from the y-chain, the other end would point towards where the operator and control box would most likely be located. And I think I would drop the x-axis chain about 300mm [12"] lower down for the times when having to lean over that wide table.
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  #58  
Old Sun 22 July 2007, 13:51
Marc Shlaes
Just call me: Marc
 
Cleveland, OH
United States of America
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J.R.,

As I look over your pictures, I notice that you went with the non-geared motors. There was quite a bit of debate on this topic about 4-6 weeks ago. Did you have any specific reasoning that you want to share?

The good news for me personally is all of the things I had to finish before I started my build are actually coming to completion. I can't wait to build!!!!!!!!

Did you maintain that supplier spreadsheet? Want to share it??

As everyone so far has agreed...

YOUR WORK IS BEAUTIFUL!!!!!!!!!!!!

Marc
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  #59  
Old Sun 22 July 2007, 17:54
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
Send a message via Skype™ to J.R. Hatcher
Marc it's all about my wallet, I paid $200 total for the 4 motors including shipping (used, but like new). I plan on trying them direct drive first then if I'm not satisfied I'll try making some 3 to 1 belt drives (unless someone knows where I can get a few gear boxes to fit them). My main concern is the possibility of movement during the reduced holding current issue with the geckos.

Yes I do keep adding to the spreadsheet, however I no longer have a zip program. How can I get it to you?
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  #60  
Old Sun 22 July 2007, 22:11
Marc Shlaes
Just call me: Marc
 
Cleveland, OH
United States of America
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J.R.

If Gerald doesn't mind, you can simply fool the forum software by renaming it .zip. It isn't a size issue, the file will be tiny. It is a security issue. .xls's can have autorun macros. That simply can't happen if you rename it .zip so there are no security issues either. Just say in the post if you rename it rather than zip it so that I, and others, can simply rename it back. But... if you are running XP, it can zip without any additional software. Just create a compressed folder and copy the .xls into it. That compressed folder is a zip file.

However, the rename method is the simplest solution.

Marc
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