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  #361  
Old Mon 07 July 2008, 14:33
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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I would like to make this offer. I setup this website about a year ago, http://www.msnusers.com/ncmechmate/documents.msnw
I wanted an off site location to store files.
If anyone has lists of materials, "how to" document files, or whatever ..... in a format that can be uploaded as a file (no pictures please), we can upload them here, tag them so folks can come back to your "personal thread" in the mechmate forum and see how it relates. This can be anything that relates to the MechMate.
This idea could be fantastic or a complete disaster............time will tell.

I have put up a test post as an example. Go try it out.


Click the website link above, after you arrive on that site click the "3 to 1 Belt Drive" file.
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  #362  
Old Mon 07 July 2008, 18:49
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
JR,

I applaud your desire to want to set up a location for files but I personally hope it does not happen. I signed up but I found that it was too much trouble to go there to just get your BOM.

To have two locations for files for me is just too confusing. I would rather find every thing is one spot.

Just my personal feelings about it.

Regards,
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  #363  
Old Tue 08 July 2008, 01:10
Alan_c
Just call me: Alan (#11)
 
Cape Town (Western Cape)
South Africa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc Shlaes View Post
Alan,

No problem. I'll get the DXFs there so you can see how we did it and modify to your needs and local availability (i.e. Metric pulleys and belts)
Hi Marc / J.R.

Any progress on the .dxf files of the reduction pulley assembly?
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  #364  
Old Wed 09 July 2008, 20:46
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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Sent file to Alan in a PM.
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  #365  
Old Wed 09 July 2008, 20:54
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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Does anyone know where to find instructions on how to install a new lower bearing (part 11a) in a model 7519 Porter Cable router? Thanks
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  #366  
Old Wed 09 July 2008, 21:30
Marc Shlaes
Just call me: Marc
 
Cleveland, OH
United States of America
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Did you look on Paco's site? He had all that stuff. Anybody remember that URL?
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  #367  
Old Wed 09 July 2008, 22:10
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
http://pacosarea.blogspot.com/2007/0...5-bearing.html
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  #368  
Old Thu 10 July 2008, 06:27
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Just a personal advisement on bearings replacement.

I suggest to anyone who plans to replace bearings on their router to consider replacing those with SKF bearings.
SKF is German hi-quality bearing and most likely the factory replacement ones you wish to replace are some cheep Chinese type !
You can imagine what a surprise-irony it was when I open my Bosch 1619evs( German brand, made in …somewhere else in the world !!) and see most parts tagged/stamp “CHINA” !!
Anyway, replacing my Bosch bearing with those SKF resulted in a smoother and much quieter router than ever I would thought off / imagine .
I know now I will not hesitate to pay this extra for some SKF bearings when the next time comes around to change bearings on some of my other Porter-Cable routers !
Amicalement, Robert
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  #369  
Old Thu 10 July 2008, 06:47
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Robert, SKF is a Swedish company with factories throughout the world. The bearings in that size typically come from their French factories.

I agree that SKF is my first choice in bearings, but I would not hesitate to accept genuine SKF made in China. Their excellent international quality control is what makes them strong.
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  #370  
Old Thu 10 July 2008, 07:33
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Doops….No offence & I should know better and DBL checked before saying GERMAN made !
Swedish German maybe…. Naa…
At any rate, as you pointed Gerald, the point here is not much on where there made but their Q.C. strength, tolerances & specs is what SKF is world renowned for !
Just can’t go wrong with those !!!
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  #371  
Old Fri 11 July 2008, 17:59
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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This is good information about how to take apart and reassemble the 7519 Porter Cable router. I came real close to wrecking mine before I fount it.

http://www.acetoolrepair.com/7519-p-1292.html


Thanks all for the help and recommendations.
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  #372  
Old Thu 17 July 2008, 06:14
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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I found these motors for $55 new but they only have 49. Send me a pm if interested.

http://store.kysanelectronics.com/servlet/Detail?no=68897
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  #373  
Old Thu 17 July 2008, 15:43
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
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Hi JR,
I’m not in to this yet so excuse me lack of knowledge and what I do remember from what I’ve read on motors to date!! ?
Are those motors at those specs desirable for a typical belt drive MechMate set up ?
I was planning / aiming to try the Motor King ones with a type of belt drive as you did and be part of the eventual “ Motor King test guys”.
What’s your thought on those ??

Thanks in advance, Robert
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  #374  
Old Thu 17 July 2008, 19:31
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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Robert let's see if we can get Mike Richards to give his opinion on these motors. I am not sure if they are what is needed or not. The price was right so I posted.
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  #375  
Old Mon 21 July 2008, 18:06
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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I'm trying to find an easier way to change bits in the middle of a job. One of the most time consuming things for me is trying to re-zero the new bit . There are probably a dozen ways to do it, this is what I came up with. I really don't know how well it's going to work, I'll report back with results in a week or so. All of the bits are 1 3/4" from the tip to where the shoulder touches the collet. I think after the first bit is zeroed the rest will just kinda fall into place . Here are a few pics to better explain. Oh almost forgot ....the bit holders have 2 set screws. The bits are only 1 1/4" out of the tool holder, some look a lot more than that don't they. If they work good I'll make one for each bit. The other benefit is no more fiddling with 1/4" to 1/2" collet adapters, that alone might be worth it.
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File Type: jpg DSCA0592.JPG (14.7 KB, 2754 views)
File Type: jpg DSCA0594.JPG (15.4 KB, 2761 views)
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  #376  
Old Mon 21 July 2008, 18:33
sailfl
Just call me: Nils #12
 
Winter Park, FL
United States of America
J R

Did you make the tool holders or buy them?
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  #377  
Old Mon 21 July 2008, 18:47
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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Nils, I used my trusty little manual metal lathe. I wish it was CNC, sure would make it easy. Maybe we can find someone with a CNC lathe sure would make it easy ........hint.......hint.......anyone???
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  #378  
Old Tue 22 July 2008, 05:47
cncb
Just call me: Brian
 
Connecticut
United States of America
very cool JR, only problem I have with tool holders like the hightechsystems one is the tool extension from the spindle. The farther you get the worse, but yours don't seem too bad! And not bad for a manual lathe. Rezeroing is a pain, can't wait for someone to come up with an affordable tool changing system.
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  #379  
Old Sat 09 August 2008, 08:13
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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Everyone needs a good laugh now and again, this is your opportunity to have one at my expense.

This is what I have learned (I think). All of my bits and cutters do not need to be the same length (see post #375). However, individually I need to be able to insert them back into the router collet to the exact same length every time, hence the purpose of the bit holders. I was trying to make all of them protrude from the collect 1 3/4". This is not necessary, they can be any length, tool one (T1) 1 3/4", tool 2 (T2) 1 3/8", tool 3 (T3) 2 1/8" etc. Regardless of the length of the bit I can setup a "tool length offset" for each one, I use Sheet Cam and when defining a tool's parameters I specify the "tool length offset".

It can be a negative or positive number.

I will base this offset number on lets say 2". Now when I setup the tool offset for T1 (1 3/4") I will use an offset of -.25 (this tells sheet cam that my bit is .25 short so it adds .25 to the Gcode [1 3/4 + 1/4 = 2]), for T2 (1 3/8) I use -0.625 (this tells sheet cam that my bit is 0.625 short so it adds 0.625 to the Gcode [1 3/8 + 5/8 = 2]), and for T3 (2 1/8) I use 0.125 (this tells sheet cam that my bit is 0.125 long so it subtracts 0.125 from the Gcode [2 1/8 - 1/8 = 2]) etc.

I am now ready to use my machine. I run the Z down until the collet touches the material (0) and manually type 2 in the Z dro. Now all bits and cutters will locate to 0 when inserted . I think I somewhat have a handle on this, it is a little confusing.

Discussions and corrections are welcome.
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  #380  
Old Sat 09 August 2008, 09:04
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Hey, you promised a laugh, but there wasn't anything funny

(Some "CAM" programs do not allow you to set up "length of bit" in the toolbox - you are lucky that Sheetcam handles it)
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  #381  
Old Sun 10 August 2008, 21:20
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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"I am now ready to use my machine. I run the Z down until the collet touches the material (0) and manually type 2 in the Z dro. Now all bits and cutters will locate to 0 when inserted . I think I somewhat have a handle on this, it is a little confusing."


I should have said ... and manually type -2 in the Z dro. I also would like to change the "it is a little confusing" to ... it is a lot confusing.
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  #382  
Old Mon 11 August 2008, 15:49
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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To make sure more people could take advantage of this system I changed the style and used only the drill press to make these new bit holders.

First thing was to cut the 1/2" cold roll rod to 1 5/8" long. To do this I chucked the rod in the drill press, turned it on and used the horizontal skate to cut it (1.5 mm disc). Next, I put a 1/4" drill bit vertical in the drill press vice (point up), slide it under the rod (still in the chuck) until it was near the center. Turned on the drill press and slowly moved it down. Believe it or not it will automatically pull the bit to the exact center of the rod . It dose look a little strange to have the material turning in the chuck and the drill bit not turning . The rest is self explanatory (I hope). The perpendicular hole in the rod is not threaded, it's just a hole so the set (grub) screw can reach the bit shaft. Almost forgot, you'll need to pick up some longer set screws for the 1/2" shaft collars. The shine you see between the rod and the collar looking from the bottom shot, is Loctite.

This new design works just as good as the other ones and they are a lot easier to make.
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File Type: jpg MechMate1 017.JPG (23.2 KB, 2572 views)
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  #383  
Old Wed 13 August 2008, 05:41
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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I'm ready to go. I have entered all the offset information into Sheet Cam's tool set. No more zeroing in the middle of the job, that will be sooooo nice.
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File Type: jpg MechMate1 004.JPG (163.4 KB, 2552 views)
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  #384  
Old Wed 13 August 2008, 06:55
Kobus_Joubert
Just call me: Kobus #6
 
Riversdale Western Cape
South Africa
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Nice selection, my postal address is ........... Christmas is comming you know.

What is the angle of the V-cutter top left... I only managed to find 90 and 60 degrees in my area !

Last edited by Kobus_Joubert; Wed 13 August 2008 at 06:56.. Reason: added question
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  #385  
Old Wed 13 August 2008, 08:13
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
JR,
That looks like a sweet setup. Sounds like you have been putting your machine to good use. Maybe you could post some pictures of your latest projects?
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  #386  
Old Wed 13 August 2008, 09:02
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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Kobus T14 is a 45 degree V-bit. How can you even call it Christmas when it happens in the middle of summer.

Heath only doing very boring stuff. Pic 1 is the dowels (made on CNC wood lathe) for the doors, pic 2 is one of the doors 1 of 4, and pic 3 is a counter top for a pass through.
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File Type: jpg MechMate1 030.JPG (23.5 KB, 2534 views)
File Type: jpg MechMate1 032.JPG (23.7 KB, 2536 views)
File Type: jpg MechMate1 042.JPG (24.5 KB, 2552 views)
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  #387  
Old Sun 17 August 2008, 18:52
cncb
Just call me: Brian
 
Connecticut
United States of America
JR thats a nice setup, but I would dump all of those straight cutters and get some solid carbide upspirals/compression spirals to replace them. The difference in cut is amazing, plus they last much longer.
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  #388  
Old Sun 17 August 2008, 19:08
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
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Brian where do you buy your cutters? Only 2 are straight cutters, well 3 if you count the 1" I use to surface the table. Just came across a company that sells a 1/4" X 2 1/2" solid carbide up cut spiral for $13.50, I may try some. Tell me what you think? http://www.bamcarbide.com/socaupcutspr.html
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  #389  
Old Mon 18 August 2008, 05:52
cncb
Just call me: Brian
 
Connecticut
United States of America
I like Whiteside tool company's bits. Very high quality for very affordable prices. Woodcraft sells them here locally but online too. Vortex apparently is good too but haven't used them.
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  #390  
Old Mon 18 August 2008, 06:30
isladelobos
Just call me: Ros
 
Canary Islands
Spain
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I like see www.rs-online.com it is a good online catalog like mcmaster.
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