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  #1  
Old Sat 02 January 2010, 11:04
dakmonf
Just call me: dakmon
 
Alberta
Canada
Working Out The Table Plan

I am seriously considering starting my MM build process this winter, however I would appreciate input from the experience of this forum. I can certainly envision many applications for the MM but I would like to know if anyone has built their own interior doors with the machine. Would you have to glue up raw material to size (for solid doors) or are there suppliers that sell solid flat panel doors.
I appreciate any and all advice.

Thanks
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  #2  
Old Sat 02 January 2010, 11:28
hennie
Just call me: Hennie #23
 
Roodepoort JHB
South Africa
Dakmon , you would probably laminate material together to do a internal door out of solid timber.It would probably be faster to machine your components on the MM first and then laminate or put it together.If you are going to cut the door out of mdf it is faster to do it out of a sheet and then just do a cutting file for the profile you want and cut it.
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  #3  
Old Sat 02 January 2010, 12:31
Johannescnc
Just call me: John
 
Hannover, DE
Germany
You can buy slabs of either LDF MDF or HDF to make doors. I have installed these in a variety of styles. the 8 footers were a bear to haul to the upper floors...
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  #4  
Old Sat 02 January 2010, 12:39
dakmonf
Just call me: dakmon
 
Alberta
Canada
Thanks for the info. My thought was to build from hardwood (or softwood depending on species) and not mdf unless necessary. Also, I would want to profile the door after glue up.
If anyone has any pics of doors they have completed, I would certainly appreciate viewing them.

Thanks again.
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  #5  
Old Mon 15 March 2010, 20:57
Robert M
Just call me: Robert
 
Lac-Brome, Qc
Canada
Send a message via Yahoo to Robert M Send a message via Skype™ to Robert M
Hi dakmon,

Allow me to reply from your PM here as it is no big secret !
I got the Igus product not from a store reseller, but rather from the regional sales rep. Igus sells direct to anyone
Surly there is a regionel sales rep in Alberta !!
If you can’t find one, phone the Canadian head office, it’s in Concord, ont. ( hers the link ).
Hope that will help you to get some Igus, if no luck, let me know, I’m in V-good terms with the Quebec rep., he will help you if needed.

As for you request for some photos of my finished version of the Beast, you’ll have to hold a bit more…. as I don’t even have some to my self….. simple, it not completed yet
…..but soon, before end of this mount
Actualy, as of just to day, I’ve re-re-re-re-schedule my addenda to finalize it and, as of tomorrow, almost all my time will be on this till it…rolls !!
So, keep up some patience and be on the lookout on my thread for some update pics soon !

Let me know anytime is there is some help you should ever need.
Take care, Amicalement Robert
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  #6  
Old Mon 15 March 2010, 22:45
dakmonf
Just call me: dakmon
 
Alberta
Canada
Robert;

Thank-you for the response to my pm . I will phone around for the Igus cable tomorrow. Hope to see pics of your build soon.

Greg
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  #7  
Old Sat 03 April 2010, 09:19
dakmonf
Just call me: dakmon
 
Alberta
Canada
I have purchased most of my electronics and my laser parts (thanks Heath), and am now looking for steel for the structure. I would like to know if it is wise to have the steel painted prior to welding (I have a friend who would be able to have it painted in an industrial setting and apparently they paint lots of equipment that is sent up north prior to welding and then do touch up later).
Since I have no idea if this is an acceptable process, I would appreciate any input from those much wiser.
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  #8  
Old Sat 03 April 2010, 09:22
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
You can prime before welding. But do not paint. IF you use a good paint you can use a roller to apply the paint and it will look fine if yu don't have access to a spray gun.
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  #9  
Old Sat 03 April 2010, 10:34
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
You get "weld through" primers, supposedly okay for leaving in place before welding. But even these must not be on too thick. A thick coat of any paint is not good for welding.
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  #10  
Old Sat 03 April 2010, 12:02
dakmonf
Just call me: dakmon
 
Alberta
Canada
Mike/Gerald;

Thanks for the advice. I will proceed as you suggest.
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  #11  
Old Sat 03 April 2010, 22:35
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Glad, you liked the parts. Good luck on the build. You have my contact info if I can be of help.
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  #12  
Old Tue 11 May 2010, 07:22
dakmonf
Just call me: dakmon
 
Alberta
Canada
No Green Light on 1 Gecko

I have 1 Gecko 203v that will not light up. I have it connected identical to the other 3 which do light up correctly. I changed out the connections for 1 of the "good" Geckos to the "bad" Gecko but still it does not light up.
Is it possible that I have blown the internal fuse (this is the kitchen project and I only have 16V connected).

All suggestions are very much appreciated.

Greg
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  #13  
Old Tue 11 May 2010, 07:58
Sergio-k
Just call me: Sergio #61
 
Athens
Greece
Greg

Can you be more specific.
What kind of BOB, power supply, connections, etc..
Since you said that you've attached the dead gecko to the other cables and it didn't lit up then probably it's a good idea to start looking from the fuse.

Sergio
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  #14  
Old Tue 11 May 2010, 08:12
dakmonf
Just call me: dakmon
 
Alberta
Canada
Sergio;

I have the PMDX-122 and a power supply from Antek (PS-4N38R12), however the Geckos are currently only hooked up to 16V for a test run so the PS is not an issue.
I am going to order the fuses today, but I would still like to know if there are other possible issues. (I believe that the wiring possibility has been eliminated).

Greg
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  #15  
Old Tue 11 May 2010, 09:33
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
If I remember correctly, the minimun voltage for a Gecko is 24V - check the paperwork and make sure that you are in the operating range.
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  #16  
Old Tue 11 May 2010, 11:56
Sergio-k
Just call me: Sergio #61
 
Athens
Greece
Gerald

The Manual of the 203V states this :

"TERMINAL 2 Power (+)
Connect the positive (red) lead of your power supply to this terminal. It must be between +18VDC to
+80VDC
."

However in a few lines below also states this :

"POWER SUPPLY WIRING
TERMINAL 1 Power Ground
Connect the power supply ground to term.1
TERMINAL 2 Power (+)
Connect the power supply “+” to this terminal
The power supply voltage must be between 15 VDC and 80 VDC. The maximum power supply current required is equal to the
motor’s rated phase current. An unregulated power supply may be used so long as the voltage stays between the specified limits;
keep the power supply ripple voltage to 10% or less for best results
."

But since Greg has power in the other 3 Geckos then i assume the problem might be here :

"CAUTION! Power supply voltage in excess of 80 VDC will blow the G203V internal fuse.
CAUTION! Reversed power supply polarity will blow the G203V internal fuse.
CAUTION! Never put a switch on the DC side of the power supply! This will damage, if not destroy, your drive
!"
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  #17  
Old Tue 11 May 2010, 12:22
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
A quick check before getting another fuse.....push the voltage up to 18V
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  #18  
Old Tue 11 May 2010, 13:40
dakmonf
Just call me: dakmon
 
Alberta
Canada
Gerald;

I will try that, unfortunately it must wait until tomorrow.
Thanks to you and Sergio for the assistance. I will post what happens.

Greg
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  #19  
Old Tue 11 May 2010, 18:27
dakmonf
Just call me: dakmon
 
Alberta
Canada
I am quite sure that I blew the fuse since I tried as Gerald suggested and no green light. I probably reversed polarity for a moment and caused the fuse to blow. I have ordered replacement fuses and would like to know if the need to be soldered or are they simply plug-in style. I do not see a method for replacement on the Gecko site.

Thanks for any help.

Greg
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  #20  
Old Tue 11 May 2010, 22:55
Sergio-k
Just call me: Sergio #61
 
Athens
Greece
Greg

The G203V uses a socketed, user-replaceable internally mounted fuse (Littlefuse Inc. part # 0251005.MXL).
Just make sure you order the right part as placing a diferent fuse might cancel the gecko warranty.

You just have to unscrew the bottom screws, slide the cover backwards and everything will be visible from there.
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  #21  
Old Tue 11 May 2010, 23:28
jessyjames
Just call me: James
 
Reno, Nevada
United States of America
Here are some pictures to help in the changing of the fuse. Looks like a resistor but is actually a fuse.

Hope it helps
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC01793.JPG (22.9 KB, 495 views)
File Type: jpg DSC01802.JPG (30.8 KB, 495 views)
File Type: jpg DSC01807.JPG (13.7 KB, 494 views)
File Type: jpg DSC01791.JPG (12.5 KB, 494 views)
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  #22  
Old Wed 12 May 2010, 06:31
dakmonf
Just call me: dakmon
 
Alberta
Canada
Sergio/James;

Thanks for the info. I did order the correct fuses.
James , great pics, are the fuses soldered in or do I just pull out? I would hate to damage the board by yanking on the fuse. It may seem trivial, but electronics are certainly not my forte.

Greg
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  #23  
Old Wed 12 May 2010, 08:17
jessyjames
Just call me: James
 
Reno, Nevada
United States of America
There is a picture of a new fuse below (Green body, with a wire lead coming out each side).

Carefully remove the existing fuse with needle nose pliers as shown in the photo. It snaps into terminals, so just gently pull.

Clip and bend the leads of the new fuse to match the bent shape of the old fuse.

Use your fingers and the pliers to push the fuse back in.

It's pretty easy, once you know where the fuse is, and what it looks like

Last edited by jessyjames; Wed 12 May 2010 at 08:24.. Reason: Better explanation
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  #24  
Old Wed 12 May 2010, 11:16
dakmonf
Just call me: dakmon
 
Alberta
Canada
Thanks James, it popped out easy enough. When I test it with my multimeter it reads 1 ohm so I assume the fuse is o.k.
Also when I test the gecko as shown on their website ;

To check your drive using a digital multimeter (DMM), follow these steps:
Turn off power to your drive.
Set the DMM to Ohms and put the negative lead on terminal 1 on the drive.
If the drive is a stepper, put the positive lead on terminals 3, 4, 5, and 6. If any of these shows
0, there is a blown MOSFET. For a servo, do the same test but only put the positive across 3
and 4.
Now take the negative and put it on terminal 2 on the drive. If it is a stepper, put the positive on
pins 3, 4, 5, and 6 and follow the same rules as above. If it is a servo, only test pins 2 to 3 and 2
to 4.

Everthings reads 1 ohm. Is this all normal or not.

Thanks for bearing with me on this.

Greg
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  #25  
Old Wed 12 May 2010, 12:33
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Fuses should be zero ohms. On your meter set the meter to Diode and when you touch the leads together this give a tone. This shows a shorted or closed state.

Then check the fuse. No tone means a blown fuse and a tone means the fuse is good. This is with the fuse out of the circuit.

Mike
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  #26  
Old Wed 12 May 2010, 18:57
dakmonf
Just call me: dakmon
 
Alberta
Canada
Thanks to all.
The new fuse solved the issue. Green light across all 4 Geckos.

Greg
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  #27  
Old Wed 12 May 2010, 22:14
jessyjames
Just call me: James
 
Reno, Nevada
United States of America
Dakmon Im glad that it worked for you buddy. Now make a record of it in your little book of knowledge that you have learned from your build and have it ready for future reference...

Keep it up.
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  #28  
Old Mon 31 May 2010, 11:23
dakmonf
Just call me: dakmon
 
Alberta
Canada
Drawing 10 10 310

Can someone please tell me if I am reading this drawing correctly. The angle brace is to be less than 40mm from end leg. The reason I ask is that I have seen some builds not utilizing this distance.
Also, is it alright if I increase the distance between the vertical bearers greater than 800 mm or should I add in extra support. (if I do it will interfere with the umbilical cable).
My length for 10 10 312 is 2599 mm. if that helps.

Thanks

Greg
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  #29  
Old Mon 31 May 2010, 12:01
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
You can safely increase that 800 to 900, if that helps you.

I also saw those builds where the 40mm has been increased, but then the effectiveness of the diagonal brace is decreased. In the ideal theoretical sense, the diagonal divides the rectangle into 2 triangles, which are extremely stiff. If you increase the 40mm by much, the shape above is no longer a triangle and no longer as stiff.
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  #30  
Old Mon 31 May 2010, 13:22
dakmonf
Just call me: dakmon
 
Alberta
Canada
Exactly what I wanted to know.
Thank you Gerald
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