MechMate CNC Router Forum

Go Back   MechMate CNC Router Forum > Archives
Register Options Profile Last 1 | 3 | 7 Days Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Closed Thread
 
Thread Tools
  #61  
Old Sat 15 September 2007, 13:23
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Do you all have any of these Bosch 115mm [4.5"] 11 000 rpm grinders easily available in your country?:
(all appear to have have similar aluminum gearheads)

230Volt countries:
GWS 11-125 (1100 Watt) (125mm)
GWS 10-125 (1000 Watt) (125mm)
GWS 9-125 (900 Watt) (125mm)
GWS 8-115 (800 Watt)
GWS 7-115 (750 Watt)
GWS 6-115 (650 Watt)

115V countries:
1810PS (8.0 Amp)
1810PSD (8.0 Amp)
1800 (7.5 Amp)
1375A (6.0 Amp)
1347A (6.0 Amp)

I could design a system that fits to their gearheads . . . .
  #62  
Old Sat 15 September 2007, 13:39
bbreaker
Just call me: Mickey
 
Galgan
France
Send a message via MSN to bbreaker Send a message via Skype™ to bbreaker
a picture is more explicit. It's not very important upgrade but i think is a good idear.

evoskate.JPG

thanks J.R. for your information and your pictures.
  #63  
Old Sat 15 September 2007, 17:51
Greg J
Just call me: Greg #13
 
Hagerman, New Mexico
United States of America
Gerald,

I've done allot of preliminary work in AutoCAD. Let me know if you want any of those files.

I'm currently waiting on screws to finish my skate. So, today, I'm working on the X-beams and welding to the table.

Greg
  #64  
Old Sat 15 September 2007, 23:12
tpworks
Just call me: Tom
 
Atlanta, GA
United States of America
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerald D View Post
JR, now I've got you thinking.

1/2" cold roll to the other side, which is 7 ft away on our x-axis, is a bit light. . . . . . don't rush into this one . . . . . .
Gerald,
I think that JR was thinking of something a little different from what you are, 4" long vertical. Here is a rough sketch, correct me if I'm wrong JR.
Attached Images
File Type: bmp skate-outrgr.bmp (131.3 KB, 1947 views)
  #65  
Old Sun 16 September 2007, 03:39
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
Send a message via Skype™ to J.R. Hatcher
Tom the pipe w/ the screw and nut is right but the orientation is horizontal like Gerald was saying.
As I have stated before, since the side bearings are cam design they can be tightened to the point you can't move the skate along the rail because of friction.
My personal belief is an outrigger is not needed.
May I suggest designing the tool without one and adding one later if needed.
  #66  
Old Sun 16 September 2007, 06:23
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
Send a message via Skype™ to J.R. Hatcher
This is what I came up with for the heigth adjustment. I'll follow up with a picture of it on the tool when the paint dries.
For reference, the bearing OD is 1 5/16", ID is 3/4", turned down stud is 9/16", rod is 1/4", Cam is 1/8" off center. Adjustment capability is 1/4".
Attached Images
File Type: jpg MVC-049S.JPG (32.8 KB, 1969 views)
File Type: jpg MVC-048S.JPG (32.0 KB, 1975 views)

Last edited by J.R. Hatcher; Sun 16 September 2007 at 06:38..
  #67  
Old Sun 16 September 2007, 10:53
Doug_Ford
Just call me: Doug #3
 
Conway (Arkansas)
United States of America
Gerald,

I easily found all of the 110V grinders you listed except the 1810PSD and it may be out there somewhere.

Doug
  #68  
Old Sun 16 September 2007, 12:49
J.R. Hatcher
Just call me: J.R. #4
 
Wilmington, North Carolina
United States of America
Send a message via Skype™ to J.R. Hatcher
This is it on the tool.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg MVC-050S.JPG (36.9 KB, 1974 views)
File Type: jpg MVC-051S.JPG (30.9 KB, 1984 views)
  #69  
Old Thu 27 September 2007, 12:43
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
Doug is the only one that answered when I posted the following before:
Do you all have any of these Bosch 115mm [4.5"] 11 000 rpm grinders easily available in your country?:
(all appear to have have similar aluminum gearheads)
230Volt countries:
GWS 11-125 (1100 Watt) (125mm)
GWS 10-125 (1000 Watt) (125mm)
GWS 9-125 (900 Watt) (125mm)
GWS 8-115 (800 Watt)
GWS 7-115 (750 Watt)
GWS 6-115 (650 Watt)
115V countries:
1810PS (8.0 Amp)
1810PSD (8.0 Amp)
1800 (7.5 Amp)
1375A (6.0 Amp)
1347A (6.0 Amp)
I could design a system that fits to their gearheads . . . .
Would it help if the laser-cutting kit included parts that fitted to a Bosch grinder as above?
  #70  
Old Thu 27 September 2007, 14:43
Hugo Carradini
Just call me: Hugo
 
Pto. Ordaz
Venezuela
J.R I will be very interested in buying one of those tools (the set would be great) you are making as soon you confirm it is trust able for the job. They have a very professional look.
  #71  
Old Thu 27 September 2007, 14:44
Hugo Carradini
Just call me: Hugo
 
Pto. Ordaz
Venezuela
Gerald I will check as soon as possible.
  #72  
Old Mon 01 October 2007, 17:36
javeria
Just call me: Irfan #33
 
Bangalore
India
GWS 6-100 - MINI ANGLE GRINDER
Part No. : 0 601 375 060
Grinding Disc Dia :100 mm
Power Input : 670 W
No-load Speed : 11000 rpm
Spindle Thread : M 10
Weight : 1.4 Kg

GWS 10-125 C - MINI ANGLE GRINDER
Part No. 0 601 702 755
Grinding Disc Dia. : 125 mm
Power Input : 1020 W
No-load Speed : 11000 rpm
Spindle Thread : M 14
Weight : 1.6 Kg

GWS 850 CE - MINI ANGLE GRINDER
Part No. 0 601 803 574
Grinding Disc Dia. : 125 mm
Power Input : 850 W
No-load Speed : 11000 rpm
Spindle Thread : M 14
Weight : 1.5 Kg

GWS 11-125 CIE - MINI ANGLE GRINDER
Part No. 0 601 823 200
Grinding Disc Dia. : 125 mm
Power Input : 1100 W
No-load Speed : 2800-11000 rpm
Spindle Thread : M 14
Weight : 2 Kg

GWS 14-125 CI - MINI ANGLE GRINDER
Part No. 0 601 824 200
Grinding Disc Dia. : 125 mm
Power Input : 1400 W
No Load Speed : 11000 rpm
Spindle Thread : M 14
Weight : 1.8 Kg

A laser cut kit would definitely help!

These are the available Bosch angle grinders in India.

RGDS
Irfan
  #73  
Old Mon 01 October 2007, 18:11
driller
Just call me:
 
ideas for the grinder sled

Hi all,

this is my first post here.

I have been making CNC machines for a number of years and probably spend more time thinking HOW to do a thing than actually doing it.

In driving out today to get some metal for a project, I was thinking about the skate and I have a suggestion that might help a bit.

First bring the rollers in closer to the grinder, the handles can go outboard. that will increase how much of the rail gets ground.

second, make the sled longer and add another set past the end. this way, the grinder can go all the way to the end, or past.

of course this means a second set of top rollers.

As for the top rollers, using 4 .. stay with me... it's my first design and all in my head at this point...

using two on each side, the outboard ones would be set to the finish height, the inboard ones being adjustable so as to allow the grinder to take off layers until it reaches the final depth. the adjustable ones would need to have a fixed minimum setting.

The other idea was to mount the grinder on a sub-sled that would feed in until the desired depth was cut.

Anyway, there are a couple ideas to kick around.

Dave
  #74  
Old Mon 01 October 2007, 18:55
driller
Just call me:
 
here is a drawing
Attached Images
File Type: jpg grinder_sled.jpg (116.2 KB, 1870 views)
  #75  
Old Mon 01 October 2007, 23:46
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
I think a very basic parameter to have available for a skate design, is the fillet radius inside the corner of your angle iron. If your angle iron producer puts a big radius in there then you will have a "wobble" problem because the side bearings will have too little flat surface to run on.

Therefore, let's establish this basic parameter first. . . . . .

Our mills out here put anything from a 6mm to 9mm radius in there, leaving a flat vertical surface of 7 to 10mm. The 7 is too small - the 10 might do.

Maybe it is time to modify the finished rail dimensions on the M1 10 110 drawing to make it more friendly for a JR Skate? Increase the 24mm [1"] to 30mm [1.25"]? . . . . . This will involve quite a few lasered drawing changes because the stepper motors will have to reach lower down . . . . . . .

  #76  
Old Tue 02 October 2007, 06:09
Marc Shlaes
Just call me: Marc
 
Cleveland, OH
United States of America
Send a message via Skype™ to Marc Shlaes
J.R.'s rails ended up at 1.125 (1-1/8") in order to accomodate exactly the problem you described. I don't believe that, at that height, he ran into too many problems with the lasered metal. I know that his stops should have been a little higher. He didn't think of the rail height difference when he made them. I know he will be back in a couple of days and I am sure that he would love to jump into this discussion.

It does sound like 1.25 would alleviate any issues.
  #77  
Old Tue 02 October 2007, 06:30
Greg J
Just call me: Greg #13
 
Hagerman, New Mexico
United States of America
Haven't had much time lately to work on the "skate", but here's what I've learned.

The 1.00 inch (25.4 mm) height of the rail should not be a problem. The first pass at making an edge on my "test rail" went good. Nice 45 degree surface, etc. When I went to grinding on the second surface (other side), it didn't produce the same nice 45 degree surface. I think my side rollers may have loosen. I didn't want to take the chance and get half way through a rail and adjust a side roller. So, I'm adding Gerald's "outriggers" to the skate.

I think adding outriggers is much simpler than re-doing the rail design and drawings, etc.

I'll have allot more time and be back to work on the skate and rail in a couple of weeks. Let me get caught up on all my other "fun stuff" and I'll be able to post pictures.

Greg
  #78  
Old Sun 21 October 2007, 12:22
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
skate modification suggestion

MM fans & JR.
Well, after some playing around, I think I have come up with a fairly unique workaround for the skate board vertical adjustment issue I have been experience in testing. The issue was the eccentric cams for the vertical (depth of grind) was changing on me. SO, I quickly drafted the following which I plan on testing later in the week for repeatable performance. The best part of the adjuster is that it does so equally. Let me know if I am crazy or not....sometime I get to involved in the engineering and loose all my common sense. Sean
Attached Files
File Type: pdf skate_smr.pdf (58.0 KB, 519 views)
  #79  
Old Sun 21 October 2007, 13:11
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
That won't necessarily do it equally - the skate will be free to rock.
  #80  
Old Sun 21 October 2007, 13:43
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
You think so? The only thing I have changed is the vertical cam to a divergent bell crank for vertical adjustment on the outboard wheels. The lateral rollers and cam adjusters are still intact. Maybe I am missing something. Sean
  #81  
Old Sun 21 October 2007, 14:20
driller
Just call me:
 
I see a couple of things.

#1 is that the guide wheels are pretty far away from each other as well as the wheel. that means it will not get as close to the end of the rail as it could.

#2 the height adjust mechanism does not prevent one side from going high while the others goes low. it might offer an easy adjustment method, but I don't see how it prevents the transference of hieght from one side to the other.

Of course I could be missing something ???

Dave
  #82  
Old Sun 21 October 2007, 18:31
Doug_Ford
Just call me: Doug #3
 
Conway (Arkansas)
United States of America
Sean,

I agree with Gerald and Dave. It is free to rock. If you were having trouble with the eccentric changing on you, why don't you just add a thumb screw to lock it in place once the correct height/depth is set?
  #83  
Old Sun 21 October 2007, 19:08
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Yep. you guys are right....I hadn't actually started to play with it in the shop when you have already realized that the turnbuckle doesn't hold station. I should have learned last time I tried a proportional dividing adjuster. If I use 2 turnbuckles, then it would work - but that's to much work. I prefer the lock screw idea better See what happens when I have to much free time while the kids are napping - I get drafting happy.

Have a good weekend.

Sean
  #84  
Old Sun 21 October 2007, 19:18
gmessler
Just call me: Greg #15
 
Chicago IL
United States of America
Interesting concept Sean.
The first thing that comes to mind is KISS. You're going to use this thing for 40' of rail (gross) and then it will sit in the corner. Also I'd have to agree with Dave regarding the distance between those rollers as well. While making mine I tried to keep the rollers as close as possible (10"). The more distance between these the more scrap material you end up with.
As for adjusting the bottom eccentrics, on mine you can see the slots in the eccentrics for holding them in place until you tighten the bolt. On the verticals ones the levers work great.
  #85  
Old Sun 21 October 2007, 19:31
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Greg,
I agree with KISS. I was trying to make it a little more friendly since I am making 2 machines to start with, possibly a third by the end of the year. SO, a production model was in my head for future use. You have sold me on the eccentric with the handle for vertical adjustment. I was just concerned with it vibrating to much and changing the grinding depth.

The next challenge is I don't have a mini-lathe in the shop. Yet! Off to buy another tool tomorrow so I can turn those bearing centers. It's a shame I sold my entire machine shop a couple of years ago before I relocated to florida. That Mitsutoyo 3 axis tree mill would come in handy about right now.

Thanks for all your input and wisdom. You keep up this good work I might have to hire one of you guys!

Sean
  #86  
Old Sun 21 October 2007, 19:51
gmessler
Just call me: Greg #15
 
Chicago IL
United States of America
Sean
I can't tell you how many times I kept looking at the lathe on the Harborfreight website. Even after getting the coupon for 20% off from Gene (THANKS!!!) I didn't want to spend that kind of money. J.R. made his look so good with all the fancy turning. I thought about using 3/4" bolts and trying to knurl the pressed on portion but it sounded like a a real PITA. As it turned out the local Lowes hardware store sold 3/4" steel dowel. It was slightly out of round but 2 minutes with my file and the problem was solved. I took the edge off before I "pressed" them into the bearings. A brass hammer, some WD40 and everything went smooth. They are tight enough that I'm not worried about them coming loose, but not so that I worry about them deforming the bearings.
  #87  
Old Sun 21 October 2007, 20:10
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
one last picture

Forum,
Just so I can sleep better, here is the skate that I will send to the shop to build....any questions, comments or (hey Sean - your missing something? Thanks for all your help.
Sean
Attached Files
File Type: pdf skate_rev2.pdf (11.7 KB, 531 views)
  #88  
Old Mon 22 October 2007, 15:54
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Greg,
I must have missed your post, because I did the same thing! I went to Lowes and found the 3/4" round bar as well. I will be working on this week. Gerald, if your watching, I am going to build a true MM first, with the proper rails. In my heart I don't want to deviate from the design that works so well. I was attempting to save a little labor in the shop, but when I really calculated all the drilling and prep time, grinding the rails is actually a time saver by about 10 man hours. I like this design more each day. Sean
  #89  
Old Mon 22 October 2007, 20:38
driller
Just call me:
 
the skate looks like it will work, but...

if you review this whole thread, there is a drawing of bearings that would allow you to use the entire length of the angle.

also, if you have machine shop experience, you can easily make a jig so that the skate of any style runs the full length of the rail, just by adding an exit runway. Not important for the one off machine, but for production, it would be very handy.

Dave
  #90  
Old Tue 23 October 2007, 00:57
Gerald D
Just call me: Gerald (retired)
 
Cape Town
South Africa
I don't like that 8-wheel arrangement that lets you get all the way to the tip of the rail. Get your hand-pressure wrong (ie. apply pressure to the wrong end of the skate) and the rail is destroyed/scrap. All this for trying to save about 300mm [12"] of cheap angle iron? Imagine trying to get all 8 bearings to carry equal load . . . . . .

To talk about the skate in general, I don't see the need to have adjustments for both:
- adjusting the top wheel height by eccentrics/levers, as well as
- screws to move the grinder from side-to-side.
One of these methods should be sufficient - my preference is to move the grinder because it is less sensitive and more rigid.

Also, do we really need wheels on top for making one set of rails? Can't the bottom of the skate just rub on top of the rail? How about brass screws up into the bottom of the skate and let the screw heads rub on the rail top? (the grinding throws up a small burr which will chew the brass to some extent, but rather not have a hard "screw" which could wear down the narrowing reference surface on the top of the rail)

Double plastic handles would be a total luxury - I would manage to produce one set of rails without handles, or maybe just one crude steel bar...

Clamping the grinder by only using its handle screw holes would be a non-starter for me - the only rigid place to hold a baby grinder would be directly behind the disk onto the gearbox. With most of these grinders now coming from the East, those screws are likely to be metric. (The Bosch is 4mm)

The four main rollers would logically sit on the same eccentrics that are going to end up on the Z-slide. No need for special eccentrics for the skate. A pair of 6001.2RSR bearings would make a nice roller. Those bearings could be re-used if making your own V-wheels as per M1 20 120.

I am toying with a design and laser cutting for the skate, but I am not yet convinced that everyone can easily find the same Bosch grinder. Also, I don't know if the grind-wheels/disks have the same thickness/offset/depression around the world.
Closed Thread

Register Options Profile Last 1 | 3 | 7 Days Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:26.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.