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  #1  
Old Sat 27 February 2010, 11:56
Kobus_Joubert
Just call me: Kobus #6
 
Dalview
South Africa
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Nothing came of my date with old BBB and the mirror frames for the BOSS...shows you who is the boss. . My son and I finished off the last of the burglar bar's in front of the windows. My eye caught all the leftovers from previous projects and I decided to use the 150 mm lip-channel, 75mm Sq tubing etc to make my workshop table that I have planned for a VERY VERY long time.

This is how it came out..

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  #2  
Old Sat 13 March 2010, 08:33
Kobus_Joubert
Just call me: Kobus #6
 
Dalview
South Africa
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Brad came along to pick up his steppers and showed me a sample of his furiture drawings. We scaled it down and did a test run on 6mm ply that I got from crates at work.

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  #3  
Old Sat 13 March 2010, 08:46
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Brilliant! Can't wait to make these stuff!
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  #4  
Old Sat 03 April 2010, 03:40
Kobus_Joubert
Just call me: Kobus #6
 
Dalview
South Africa
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POOL Table

Finished another Hall Table (top from MINGERhout ..Mtumi) and varnished the Blackwood made previsouly with 2K car lacquer. This NARROW one fits perfectly in a normal house hall.

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  #5  
Old Sat 03 April 2010, 04:07
Jayson
Just call me: Jayson #18
 
Horsham
Australia
Looks wonderful as always Kobus.

Well done.

Jayson.
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  #6  
Old Sat 03 April 2010, 04:11
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Nice work!
Can not really see from the pix, I always wonder how those 2K varnish will look like on wood. Do you have to apply any base coat before the 2K's?
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  #7  
Old Sat 03 April 2010, 05:56
Jan de Ruyter
Just call me: Jan
 
Pretoria
South Africa
It is common to use catalyst (2k) lacquer for wood in factories. However automotive and wood lacquer are two totally different products and should be used for the appropriate application as they have different properties.

The advantage of using catalyst lacquer is that subsequent coats do not dissolve the previous coats, so it is quicker and easier to fill the grain. A more environmentally friendly water based lacquer is also available but I don't have any experience in using it.

DIY poly urethane or enamel paint takes at least 24 hours to dry, so a paint job can take several days to apply multiple coats.

Using oil offers no protection against moisture. In addition it attracts dust and gives off on clothes. It is also (nearly) impossible to apply lacquer on an oiled surface later.

If you use sanding sealer, it "sinks" every time you apply a subsequent coat as it dissolves the previous coats so it requires more coats and more elbow grease. Sanding sealer does not protect the wood against moisture or UV.

Sand the raw wood with 60 grit cabinet paper, then fill all the small imperfections with stopping and then sand with 220 grit free-coat paper (the white one). Be careful not to use an orbital sander on raw wood, as it leaves little "worms" on the wood. This is caused by the heat of the sanding process that melts the resin in the wood and then sticking the goo and grit to the sanding paper. A belt sander (always with the grain) finished by a light sand by hand provides the best results.

You cannot prepare the surface too much!

If staining is required, it should be done at this stage. Stain livens up the wood and gives a nicer appearance. Spirit (methanol) stain gives better results than water based stains. Stain is just colour, it offers no protection whatsoever.

Then I apply a liberal coat of lacquer, let it dry properly, sand it with an orbital sander with 220 grit to create a nice, level surface. Build up the coats (usually 3 or 4) to get a nice, even finish. If you discover any small imperfection, use a drop of catalyst lacquer to fill it up. This method is cheaper than applying coat after coat to try and fill th elittle hole. It is advisable to sand the second last coat with 360 or even 1000 W/D with water to create a nice finish, specially if it is a quality piece of furniture.

Use a high pressure spray gun. You can use a low pressure gun or a brush, but the finish will not be as good as the high pressure gun atomises the lacquer into small droplets and gives a nice fan. Over spray 50% to ensure all areas are properly covered.

I buy Turbobright from Technipaint in Denver. It is available in clear or tinted (for MDF) in matt, satin or gloss. Thin with lacquer thinners (also available from Technipaint) The stuff is water resistant. Satin is the most forgiving finish as matt is very "dead" and gloss shows every little mark and finger print.

For maintaining the surface, beware of spray polishes. They contain silicone which causes fish eyes if you try to restore the item later on. A waxed based (Cobra) polish works best and a little elbow grease (available at your local bike shop) is sufficient.

Make sure you follow the instructions and use a respirator in an adequately ventilated area.
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  #8  
Old Sat 03 April 2010, 06:49
Kobus_Joubert
Just call me: Kobus #6
 
Dalview
South Africa
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Wow so much info, my head is still spinning. I have oiled the piece with boiled Lynseed oil a while ago to bring the colour out. I then gave it a light sanding 3 weeks later and applied the 2k (mix 2:1) with my cheap little 24litre Makro (shop) compressor and R 240.00 spray gun. The guy that sold me the 2k also had his ideas that the 2k will not stick to the oiled surface, but so far it looks like it is holding on well.
I gave it a couple of shots, let it dry overnight and then used one of those 3M pads and the garden hose to wipe it down. This removed all the little upstanding pieces. I dried it and gave it the final coat of 2k. It is as smooth as a babies bum.
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  #9  
Old Sat 03 April 2010, 14:16
MariusL
Just call me: Marius #22
 
Centurion
South Africa
Kobus is becoming quite the expert in making nice stuff. He will have to start teaching the rest of us soon.
Excellent job Kobus.
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  #10  
Old Sat 03 April 2010, 23:14
domino11
Just call me: Heath
 
Cornwall, Ontario
Canada
Kobus, that is a nice table. Is it me or is tile flooring really popular is SA? You guys really seem to have tile everywhere. Halls, living room, poolside,......
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  #11  
Old Sun 04 April 2010, 01:12
Kobus_Joubert
Just call me: Kobus #6
 
Dalview
South Africa
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Hi Marius, glad to see you are still around.. What have you cut lately ? Show some pic's.

Making nice things is only possible if you have nice REAL wood to work with. This Mtumi is now the first piece I used...have been lying in my workshop for more than 3 years. Up to now I was afraid to use it in case I stuff it up. From now on I will use it more as confidence builds up and I know what I want to make.

Heath, tiles over here is very popular in houses I suppose.....Good for summer but VERY cold in winter. All the floors in the house is tiled apart from the bedrooms that have carpet.

I like my POOL table...must make some of those long sticks to play the balls with...
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  #12  
Old Mon 05 April 2010, 09:15
Kobus_Joubert
Just call me: Kobus #6
 
Dalview
South Africa
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Ugly table ...Said the wife

Today way a nice holiday at home. Made some 100mm Sq turned leggs with 8 flutes...one left-hand direction and one right-hand direction. Thought I would be BRAVE and do something else....The BOSS said outright....it's UGLY

Well with some stain and varnish it might become something.

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  #13  
Old Mon 05 April 2010, 10:14
Jan de Ruyter
Just call me: Jan
 
Pretoria
South Africa
I'll bring you some stain and lacquer on Saturday.
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  #14  
Old Mon 05 April 2010, 23:49
hennie
Just call me: Hennie #23
 
Roodepoort JHB
South Africa
Kobus make another one looking the same get some glass 1000 x 700 as a top and use some of Jan`s stain and see what the wife has to say then.
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  #15  
Old Tue 06 April 2010, 02:54
liaoh75
Just call me: David
 
Taibao
Taiwan
Kobus, you do some excellent work. Those tables are beautiful. Wish I had an indexer now.
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  #16  
Old Tue 06 April 2010, 09:42
bradm
Just call me: Brad #10
 
Somerville(MA)
United States of America
On reflection, when I think of examples of various turned columns, those with uniform diameters all seem pretty "masculine"; those with tapers or bulges become more "balanced" or in some cases "feminine". Maybe that has something to do with the reaction? That piece does sort of scream "courthouse" or "Men's Den/Library". "Solid" "Stout" "Powerful" "Squat" etc.

Quite a contrast with the "Svelte" tapered legs on the table above.

They are pretty cool, though.
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  #17  
Old Sat 17 April 2010, 07:20
Kobus_Joubert
Just call me: Kobus #6
 
Dalview
South Africa
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This week I refurbished my little Martlet thicknesser. Took it apart, put new bearings in everywhere even on the bottom rollers. Went to Ruterforts to get the little height adjustment handle as mine never had one when I bought it secondhand a few years ago. While I was there I asked the price of 2 new rubber rollers.....R 490.00 each...ouch.... Well as luck was on my side they did not have the little handle in stock, so the workshop guy took me to a little store room to check if he had any lying around on the junk pile......
What did I see.....2 brand new rubber rollers. He said that he will ask his manager if she would sell it to me at half price at it was just lying there and this model was basically obsolete. This nice lady looked at me, saw that I would give these 2 rollers a good home and told me to take them away and look well after them....exactly what I will do.
Must say this thicknesser is now like new.....happy me.

I also finished that UGLY table.....My wife still say it's not her style, but must admit it is looking better.

I also gave that other hall table a coat of the ELVOLAC that Jan brought me. Must say it is also looking good.

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  #18  
Old Fri 04 May 2012, 09:33
danhamm
Just call me: Dan
 
Williams Lake B.C. Canada
Canada
Some of my tables and stuff, we use facebook for a medium to sell and show..

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Burni...07304665958314
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