Make your own V-Rollers if too expensive in your country - Page 2

DMS · #31 Mon 07 January 2008, 09:11

Thanks Gerald for clearing this up.

Kobus_Joubert · #32 Wed 23 January 2008, 11:48

Hi Gerald,

I am looking at making my own V-Tyres like you did.
On the first picture of this thread you show your own design with a flange, but the drawing M1 20 121 it looks like the flange is on both sides. Is this correct?

I was wondering if it is possible to make the tyre in such a way that your bearings are pushed in from one side up against a collar which is part of the one side flange. The other side I cut a small groove in for a circlip to keep the bearings in place.

From the forum I gather that one of your first MM are still running on UnHardend tyres. Is this correct?

Gerald D · #33 Wed 23 January 2008, 12:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gerald_D

The basic design dimensions are so that the roller is interchangeable with the BWC size2 roller - the offset from the left face to the center of the V is identical. The bore size and OD make these close to the BWC/Hepco/Yitong size 3.

BWC on left, own design right

The design was since modified to be fully interchangeable the "Size 3" produced by Hepco, Superior, YiTong, BWC, etc. The V was moved to the center and the diameter slightly increased.

From this post, you can see that you only have 2mm clearance on the one side - a 1mm collar will work for that side. On the other side there is a lot of space - easy to fit circlip there. You can make a bigger collar if you move the bearings slightly off center.

With the "re-Loctiting" of the wheels, I lost track of which wheels were where. The whole hard/soft wheel thing has become a non-issue for me. Next week we can have a closer look at the wheels.

Kobus_Joubert · #34 Wed 23 January 2008, 21:59

Thanks for that. So if I make the copmlete wheel a little WIDER, it will not catch on anything. At the moment it is 16mm wide. If I increase it to say 19mm wide, will it pose a problem....thinking about Y and Z axis as well.

Just to make 100% sure...all the wheels needed are the same size...46mm OD....X, Y and Z axis.

Gerald D · #35 Wed 23 January 2008, 22:25

Making the wheel 3mm fatter (1.5mm per side) will chew up the 2mm clearance left for other inaccuracies during the gantry welding. Rather move the bearings off-center if you are re-designing the wheel for shoulder and circlip:

Clipboard01.gif

All the wheels are the same size. The mod mentioned above will have a tiny effect on the z-axis (mounting the eccentrics).

Kobus_Joubert · #36 Tue 29 January 2008, 02:57

Can one use VESCONITE in place of the bearings.

See ... http://www.vesconite.com/industry/ap...wheel_bush.htm

Gerald D · #37 Tue 29 January 2008, 03:03

No, a plastic bush will always be a bit flexible side to side, given that our wheel is only 16mm wide.

I have some spare "tyres", as per the pics right at the top - want to make me an offer via PM or mail?

Kobus_Joubert · #38 Tue 29 January 2008, 03:18

Ok speak to you FACE to FACE tomorrow afternoon 14:00?

hennie · #39 Sun 05 October 2008, 05:43

Since there were no action over the last 3 days let me put some pic`s on the forum !

I tried it and got it right!
My interpretation of turning v rollers

Picture 224.jpg

Picture 226.jpg

Picture 228.jpg

Picture 229.jpg

Picture 230.jpg

Gerald D · #40 Sun 05 October 2008, 10:28

You took that first pic at 6.44am on a Sunday?? Did the missus make you sleep in the garage again??

That wheel will give you lots of good service. (havn't worn out our mild steel experimental wheel yet - it is on a y-car)

That mandrel you used in the lathe chuck is exactly the right way to get the V-groove true to the bore!

SLINK · #41 Thu 15 January 2009, 17:19

GERALD
I WANT TO MAKE THIS V WHEELS WHERE DO I BUT THE TYRES AND BEARING CAN YOU GIVE ME THE SITES AND ALL THE SPEC
JSLINGERLAND@ROCHESTER.RR.COM

hennie · #42 Thu 15 January 2009, 21:18

Slink , get the laser company to cut some steel for the wheels 1.5 mm over size and use the std bearings as per the spec`s that Gerald gave in his drawings.Bearings you can get from any bearing supplier.Get some extra wheels to play with.

MariusL · #43 Fri 27 February 2009, 13:35

. . . . . . I am using Ertalite wheels. They are a bit softer that the steel. . . . .

Gerald D · #44 Fri 27 February 2009, 21:05

Curious about the life of those Ertalyte wheels - sometimes I wonder if we can dump the wheels and replace them with solid plastic slide blocks, still on the v-rail, (like a lathe bed) . . . . .

MariusL · #45 Fri 27 February 2009, 23:14

Gerald, So you picked up on the spelling. I sometimes do that

. Personally I would not give up on the wheels. The added friction that the slide block give will not be practical especially on larger machines. What I would look at is to increase the contact area. I am looking at designing an extrustion that will give about 10mm contact area on each side.
I am monitoring the Ertalyte wheels closely to see how they hold up. So far not a sign of wear. Also the machine runs very quite so it will be a bonus if they last.

MariusL · #46 Wed 08 April 2009, 05:10

Gerald,
The machine has been working non-stop for many weeks now and the ertalyte wheels dont show any signs of decay yet. They have not yet bedded and I think it might be a good alternative. The machine noise is also very low. Kobus came round the other day and commented on the low noise level so I take it must be a lot better than the metal wheels.

Gerald D · #47 Wed 08 April 2009, 06:04

Marius, that is great news on the Ertalyte wheels.

Kobus's machine has direct drive motors, which makes a machine sound quite rough. I guess his comment was based on this aspect. I don't think that steel/plastic wheels will make a big difference on noise, but I may still be proved wrong. :-)

swatkins · #48 Sat 26 December 2009, 21:27

Gerald has anyone tried using brass for the wheels? Think it would work?

Gerald D · #49 Wed 30 December 2009, 10:48

Brass (or bronze) will also work.

swatkins · #50 Wed 30 December 2009, 20:12

Then that is what I will be using... I have a nice bar just the right size for this

MariusL · #51 Wed 30 December 2009, 23:37

Gerald,
I cant believe a years has gone already since we started our build. Just to give feedback - the ertalyte wheels still look the same as when installed. The machine has worked hard almost every day of the year. So I think any of the synthetic stuff that has similar properties might work well.

Regards
Marius

Gerald D · #52 Wed 30 December 2009, 23:44

Thanks for the update Marius.

PEU · #53 Sun 01 August 2010, 18:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gerald D

Tom, suggest you make them of cheap steel, or bronze, and replace them if they wear out. Do not bother to harden them. My experimental set of "soft" rollers is still quite happy.

I would spend a little more trouble on getting the Loctite to bond correctly.

Gerald, is the bronze suggestion still valid? I want to try my luck at doing the V wheels with my small cnc lathe.

Gerald D · #54 Sun 01 August 2010, 23:26

Yes, it is still valid

MariusL · #55 Sat 29 July 2023, 05:01

I don't know if anyone is still around to read this but the Ertalyte wheels are still going strong on the machine. Almost 15 years later.

Alan_c · #56 Sun 30 July 2023, 11:23

Hi Marius

That is good to know, thank you for the feedback. Where did you source the Ertalyte?

MariusL · #57 Mon 31 July 2023, 01:48

Hi Allan
From our local supplier called Maizey Plastics.
I am building myself another machine now so I will go the same route with the wheels.