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  #241  
Old Fri 04 October 2013, 13:44
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Tom, they will solder fine. Just trim the end down to 18g with your stripper only long enough insert into the cup. Make sure it is inserted so the rim of the full surface touches the end of the cup. Solder with quality 60/40 electronics solder. It is your choice to use shrink tube or liquid electrical tape.
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  #242  
Old Fri 04 October 2013, 13:45
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
The connectors are not the best of quality but they can be worked with.
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  #243  
Old Fri 04 October 2013, 14:31
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Pete the problem is that the wire diameter is larger than the cup, bigger than the whole pin itself. I'll look for a better connector.
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  #244  
Old Fri 04 October 2013, 18:10
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
I understand that, if you use your wire strippers they will decrease the circular mills of the 14g to 18g. Strip off only enough copper to allow to slide into the cup but bottom out against the 14g copper to the back side of the cup then solder. This way you have full contact.

If you want a different connector, Amphenol makes good connectors.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf exampleSolder.pdf (3.5 KB, 27 views)
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  #245  
Old Fri 04 October 2013, 20:05
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
I can do that and thought about doing that before but didn't think of it as a good practice IMHO. But after doing research and looking around for a connector that is large enough I find it is not possible. The largest cup diameter I found was 0.9 mm. Still requiring trimming the wire back a bit. Oh well, go with what works.
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  #246  
Old Sat 05 October 2013, 02:09
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
Please Advise

I was thinking and that is why I ask your advise.
Please review this solution to the issue.



Use appropriate size pin connector
grind pin shaft to fit solder cup.
double crimp pin connector to wire.
solder pin connector to other connector
slide heat shrink over assembly and apply heat.
repeat until done.
pray before using...update insurance
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  #247  
Old Sat 05 October 2013, 04:14
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Mike, I don't see how that can be done and still slide the connector cover/shield over it and be safe. The shield is what hopefully prevents wires from getting ripped out. I think Pete's approach is much better, just trim back the wire from 14g to 18g at the depth of the cup, insert and solder.

The connector that came with mine is a real cheapo and the pins aren't even firmly inserted, I'm definitely getting a replacement.
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  #248  
Old Sat 05 October 2013, 04:15
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Insurance usually doesn't cover negligence.
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  #249  
Old Sat 05 October 2013, 11:30
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
You will be drawing 9 amps max, 18g is good for 5A. You will run around 2 to 6 amps with 2-3 being most of the time if your chip load is correct. Your area of coverage with the solder fills the gap of the minute amount of lose of copper. Your circular area is still the same after soldering. Your wire is only rated for 90°C before failure, solder melts at minimum of 190°C. The spindle connector that came for mine was for 16g wire. I purchased my spindle from UgraCNC.com. Contact them and see if they have a connector that will work if your connector solder cup is smaller than the gauge of your wire. They respond really fast, even on a Saturday.
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  #250  
Old Sat 05 October 2013, 11:32
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Tom, reading post 248 it sound like you have a connector the was smaller than mine. I only have to modify the gland nut to accommodate the larger cable. Sounds like you will have to purchase a different connector.
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  #251  
Old Sat 05 October 2013, 11:33
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
http://ugracnc.com/CABLE-MANAGEMENT/...Connector.html
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  #252  
Old Sat 05 October 2013, 11:34
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
I hope this helps.
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  #253  
Old Sat 05 October 2013, 12:17
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Thanks Pete I'll give'm a call.
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  #254  
Old Sat 05 October 2013, 14:10
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Hurshy, updating insurance wouldn't do anything with a motor that is not UL listed. Insurance companies can be ignorant when it comes to that.
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  #255  
Old Sat 05 October 2013, 22:11
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
Cable Diameter is .637

The circumference of the cable is 2". So Diameter = .637.
This is a well built cable with thick Poly Olefan jacket, braided wire
and Aluminum foil wrapped. Each of the 3 power conducting wires
also has a heavy insulator. What ever connector you get will need
to pass that .637 cable. Here is what I found on CNC Zone.
Check site, I hope it's good because it is what I ordered.
I do like the fact that it has the ground added.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/bencht...e_company.html

Digi-Key part numbers for Amphenol Connectors
361-1345-ND CONN MALE PLUG 3+PE SILVER BLACK3 (black plug) 11.29
361-1344-ND CONN MALE PLUG 3+PE SILVER BLUE3 (blue plug) 11.32
361-1081-ND CONN FMLE RCPT 3+PE SCREW SILVR6 (black receptical) 9.09





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  #256  
Old Sun 06 October 2013, 05:30
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Now that's what I'm talking about! I looked the parts carefully, they're good to up to 14 awg and tight enclosure too. I ordered the blue one (of coarse) and the female receptacle, already on their way. Great find Mike!
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  #257  
Old Sun 06 October 2013, 06:40
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Well done Hurshy.
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  #258  
Old Sun 20 October 2013, 12:02
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
I will put this here for future reference. Allied Electronics has the Amphenol Tuchel C016 20D003 100 10 for less than $8 and the Amphenol Tuchel C016 20C003 100 12 for about $7. Both have a 16A rating. Hopefully this will help someone in the future. Also listed above it states male plug and female receptacle. It should be a female connector and male panel receptacle. You never want your live conductors to be exposed which they will be since the hot wire is connecting to the motor. The motor is the dead end and should have the male pins not the female (socket). If it is disconnected and the power is applied there is the possibility for a unintended touch which creates an electrocution hazard. Not a good work or safety practice.
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  #259  
Old Sun 20 October 2013, 16:26
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Pete you are right again, I didn't catch that little detail. Too late now, already installed the other and I'm not going to take steps backwards right now, I'll replace later, I want to get the the table turned over and ready for further assembly.
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  #260  
Old Sun 20 October 2013, 21:52
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
Digi-Key is not the Cheapest

Yep!, this little episode taught me that Digi-Key is my last choice, places like Allied and a few others are a better deal.
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  #261  
Old Sun 20 October 2013, 22:10
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America

Amphenol Tuchel Assembly, on Flickr

This picture references the post above. I have posted this here for future builders. There are more pictures of this connector located here
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  #262  
Old Mon 21 October 2013, 02:57
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
I may not have gotten the orientation right but I got the color right anyway...
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  #263  
Old Mon 21 October 2013, 20:22
Mrayhursh
Just call me: Hurshy
 
Riverview, Florida
United States of America
Removal of Spindle Top

Tom after you removed the 4 allen screws from the top of the spindle, how did you remove the cap? I have tapped it a few times but do not want to over do it. Is it time for the rubber mallet?
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  #264  
Old Mon 21 October 2013, 20:36
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Mine had a sealant of sorts on it, but not much and came apart easily. The cap is fairly thick cast aluminum. It had no lip, recess or anything, it just mated two flat surfaces and two o-rings. I would try wood or plastic mallet, but not hard. If you had to pry it open I would try opposite of the water line side (o-ring seats underneath) with very thin putty knife, very gently with the thought of a possible lip/seat being there. Good luck.
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  #265  
Old Wed 30 October 2013, 19:43
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Well, yesterday my son and I started back on the monster, moved a lot of stuff around i the shop to barely make enough space to lay the table down (upside down). Tonight we positioned the table on the leg frames to make sure all was well (it is) Tomorrow night I'll start welding the cross members and hopefully won't run out of gas in the middle of it. I'm following in Darren Salyer's foot steps and bought a HF dust collector and I'll paint it blue like he did too (and send Darren his royalty fees ) I'll take a few pics tomorrow and post. Backs a bit sore.
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  #266  
Old Thu 31 October 2013, 06:32
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
Without pics, it never happened.....
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  #267  
Old Thu 31 October 2013, 14:54
pblackburn
Just call me: Pete #98
 
South-Central Pennsylvania
United States of America
Nothing wrong with Harbor Freight other than it is not meant for hard usage. Most people say their dust collectors only need the blade balanced a little and they run fine. The motors are not be best quality but it should serve you well. A descent motor purchase later will still be less than buying a Jet or equivalent manufacturer.
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  #268  
Old Thu 31 October 2013, 16:53
Tom Ayres
Just call me: Tom #117
 
Bassett (VA)
United States of America
Hey on sale for $199 plus 20% off, net $159. It'll be fine for a while at least. If I tear it up, oh well. I've been looking on auctions for decent dc's with large fans (so I can make a cyclone) but got tired of waiting for one within 200 miles. Darren, true in many respects, just don't tell the wife's private investigator. Ha Ha.
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  #269  
Old Thu 31 October 2013, 17:45
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
LOL. Agreed. My HF collector has several hundred hours on it. From what I've read, the switch is the weak point. When mine failed, I wired it direct and plugged it into a RF controlled outlet.
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  #270  
Old Thu 31 October 2013, 17:46
darren salyer
Just call me: Darren #101
 
Wentzville mo
United States of America
Do a Thein baffle and add a Cartridge filter, and it works really well.
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