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  #61  
Old Sun 14 August 2011, 21:20
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
Got the rails and track mounted today and discovered that the Y-car is hitting the stop blocks. Will have to grind about an 1/8" off the car at the spots it is hitting. I order a lenght of 1/2 drill rod to use in the gearbox builds. Cold roll 1/2" rod is .001" under and I didn't like the fit of the pinions and bearing on it, just felt too loose for me. Hopefully the drill rod will arrive the first of the week and I'll get started on them.

Gary
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  #62  
Old Sun 14 August 2011, 22:03
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Almost ready to make some dust real soon!
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  #63  
Old Sun 14 August 2011, 23:11
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Can we see a few more shots of the stop blocks? You should not need to shim them out. What OM Motors are those? I may have missed that earlier in the thread?
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  #64  
Old Mon 15 August 2011, 07:15
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Gary,
Note that the stop blocks for the Y CAR and the X Gantry are DIFFERENT heights. Noted in the drawings, you will find they are about 1/4" lower than the others.
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  #65  
Old Tue 16 August 2011, 19:38
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
Sean,

Your right, I used the X rail measurements for all of my stops Instead of redoing them I just grinded the the Y car to clear them. This afternoon I have found another problem, the idler bearing lacks about 1/16" contacting the bottom of the angle rail. The stub shaft is hitting the bottom of the Y car. I made the stub shaft per drawing and have the correct bearing. I may have to grind this area of the Y car too. Any thoughts?

Mike,

The motors are PK299-4.5A. I'm going to go 3 to 1 belt reduction (60 tooth and 20 tooth gears) with a 20 tooth pinion.

Gary
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  #66  
Old Tue 16 August 2011, 20:42
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
The idler bearing clearance is very close to begin with if all goes well. Did you place the pivot end of the swing arm in the right hole? The rail grinding height has a direct impact on this clearance. If you ended up with 1.2 inches instead of 1.125, then that sounds about right (I know - I was off by just a little) Just grind a little "crescent" area where the shaft impacts the y-car. Very common "adjustment"
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  #67  
Old Wed 17 August 2011, 20:06
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
Sean,

I did as you suggest and the contact is good with the rail now. I was curious as to my rail height so I miked them and have a height of 1.107".

Gary
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  #68  
Old Thu 18 August 2011, 12:08
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Sounds like your fine.
A little bit here and there can add up to the difference.
I wouldn't lose any sleep over it!
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  #69  
Old Sun 21 August 2011, 20:19
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
I've been busy again this weekend. Got three fo my gearboxes welded up. I'm waiting to do the last one because I may have to change the angle a little.

Mike, I cut the tabs off of the gear box plates made spacer jigs and then welded new tabs to them. I also bored the bearing holes to fit larger bearings (1/2" ID X 1-3/4" OD). I'm using drill rod for the pinion shafts. I used the drill rod through the bearings to do my alignment before welding.

They were throwing out cable chain at work so I was able to get two rolls. I have enough left over to probably do four more MM. There were no ends so I made them out of aluminum angle.

Mike could you let me know what wire you have and the price.
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  #70  
Old Mon 22 August 2011, 06:02
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
Throwing out Cable chain? I'll buy some! Send me a PM if interested.
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  #71  
Old Mon 22 August 2011, 08:38
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Cable 20 Gauge - F-CY-JZ - Helukabel

8 core 1.37 per foot
4 core .93 per foot

I sell it in lenghts

85 foot of the 8 Core - $116.45
170 foot of the 4 core - $158.10

No cut charge

Shipping $25.00

I can add length to the amounts if needed. I just order it so I have these "kit" lenghts.
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  #72  
Old Tue 23 August 2011, 18:02
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
Got a question about the wire run to the router. Is it OK to to run ext. cord wire such as 16ga (16/2 w/ground) or do I need to use a shielded wire?

Thanks, Gary
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  #73  
Old Tue 23 August 2011, 18:12
smreish
Just call me: Sean - #5, 28, 58 and others
 
Orlando, Florida
United States of America
No shield necessary, but I would recommend 14 gauge MIN. for the router. This is a high current device and has high starter current draw.
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  #74  
Old Mon 29 August 2011, 20:19
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
Parts from Mike to start kitchen table project
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  #75  
Old Mon 29 August 2011, 20:23
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
Antek and PMDX goodies
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  #76  
Old Mon 29 August 2011, 20:29
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
Getting started on the kitchen table project
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  #77  
Old Tue 30 August 2011, 09:22
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Your a machine !!! Looks great !!
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  #78  
Old Fri 02 September 2011, 21:18
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
Well after my reading mistake, see motor post, I'm back on track. My wife said I was spending too much time in the shop Got the gearboxes finished and installed, pulled the wiring less limit swithches, and mounted the control box. Tomorrow this baby will move on it's own. Still have to build the Z assembly. My tool steel plate came in but UPS must have used it for pry bar Will try to straighten as soon as the wiring is complete.
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  #79  
Old Sat 03 September 2011, 01:34
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
Love the way you expose the heat sink fins to the atmosphere.
Free up lots of real estate in the control panel too. I like!
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  #80  
Old Sat 03 September 2011, 08:22
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
Quote:
Originally Posted by KenC View Post
Love the way you expose the heat sink fins to the atmosphere.
Free up lots of real estate in the control panel too. I like!
Got the idea from the PMDX web site. Will not require a cooling fan with this set up. I originally planned to include the computer in the cabinet but am undecided now. May try it later. When I get the Z assembly built I will be using a router at first but will get a spindle to quiten the MM down.

Gary
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  #81  
Old Sat 03 September 2011, 11:00
danilom
Just call me: Danilo #64
 
Novi Sad
Serbia
Were there no other options then to mount the Ycar motor that way?
It could interfere with some tall pieces or clamps
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  #82  
Old Sat 03 September 2011, 15:59
MetalHead
Just call me: Mike
 
Columbiana AL
United States of America
Yes,

You can rotate the flange as seen here.

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showt...81&postcount=7

But a cut and reweld would be needed
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  #83  
Old Sat 03 September 2011, 20:21
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
Quote:
Originally Posted by danilom View Post
Were there no other options then to mount the Ycar motor that way?
It could interfere with some tall pieces or clamps
I didn't know it was going to hang so low when I welded them up. I did have to change the A drive geabox because it only had about 1/8" clearance between the cable chain and the motor. Will go back and redo the Y car soon.

Gary
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  #84  
Old Sat 03 September 2011, 20:44
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
It's alive Got the motors wired up and the steps calibrated. Measured the movement with a dial indicator and the travle was off +0.008". Use the auto calibrate setting in Mach and got it dead on. Maximum speed with 25,000 kernal was about 750 ipm. I bumped the kernal to 35,000 and was able to get over 1000 ipm. The steppers even sounded smoother, so I left it at 35,000 and limited the top speed to 900 ipm.

I have to tell on myself. When I first pressed the arrow key for the X axis the accel. setting was too high. The grantry jumped off the rails and got my attention fast The gear reducers really give the MM a lot of torque.

Tomorrow I will wire the switches on the remote. I know how to wire the E-stop with NC switches in series but I dont know about setting the pause and start push buttons. I believe these are wired in parallel with momentary NO switches. Will check the posts tonight to see how to set them up and how to defined the pin setting.
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  #85  
Old Sat 03 September 2011, 21:20
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
Got a question.

I am planning on wiring my E-stop to control the mains contactor. This will kill power to the BOB, the router contator, and the power supply. Is there an advantage to using the E-stop circuit on the BOB? I believe the onboard relay can control the mains contractor to shut it down but what advantage would this give. It looks like more wiring just to use the BOB E-stop circuit. If there is an advantage please let me know so I can decide which way to go.

Gary
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  #86  
Old Sun 04 September 2011, 08:20
234ahmed
Just call me: Ahmed #81
 
Damietta
Egypt
Hello Gary,
Great progress you have there. I wish you all the best.
AFAIK the only adv. for using E-stop circuit on the BOB is the feedback given to mach3 if the e-stop was pressed then mach3 makes an emergency stop as if you hit the Esc button in your Keyboard.

Ahmed
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  #87  
Old Mon 05 September 2011, 06:23
KenC
Just call me: Ken
 
Klang
Malaysia
WELL DONE! Now you got yourself a runaway Mechmate!!!

There are definitely some advantage to have the E-stop circuit interface with the
BOB. but it also depend on how much blink-blink you want...

During my built, I just want to get to the point where I could have a functional Mechmate soonest... so I had all the bare minimum for safe operation & skipped the limit switches, the E-stop to BOB interface... etc. As time went by... It becomes more & more of a struggle to even look at these KIV items...
Especially after I found figured out a simple way to Zero my X-Y position manually with a battery operated cross-hair laser double-sided taped to the Y-car...

I also intended to integrate the PC mobo into the control panel... but I eventually swallowed my pride & have a separate PC on an old PC table on castors to save me from more sleepless nights...

BTW, with a separate PC, you only have to run a single length of printer cable instead of a whole bundle which made up of cables for the keyboard, the Monitor & the mouse for the least.That can be a huge PITA when you have wood dust flying all over the place.
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  #88  
Old Tue 06 September 2011, 21:05
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
Z assembly finished and installed. Still need to find a cylinder and make the router mount. Need to do a little touch up on securing the wiring and bolting the table top down. It won't be long before its covered with saw dust

Has anyone got the mounted deer head dxf (made like the dinosaur skeletons) or know where I can get it.

Gary
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  #89  
Old Wed 07 September 2011, 01:22
danilom
Just call me: Danilo #64
 
Novi Sad
Serbia
Open this list of all the files in a cnczone thread, look for Deer Head

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/misc.p...chments&t=5276

download as much as you wish
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  #90  
Old Wed 07 September 2011, 22:00
Rusty Nuts
Just call me: Gary #86
 
Valley Grande, AL
United States of America
Quote:
Originally Posted by danilom View Post
Open this list of all the files in a cnczone thread, look for Deer Head

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/misc.p...chments&t=5276

download as much as you wish
Thanks, thats a lot of files.

Gary
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