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-   -   I call her Big Blue #119 - Columbus, Ohio (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4278)

IMMark Thu 14 November 2013 09:47

I call her Big Blue #119 - Columbus, Ohio
 
Can someone tell me, what actually hits the x rail stopper block (10 10 248)?
Is there something on the gantry that hangs down and catches it?
Also, regarding installing the x rails; did any of you make the holes through the main x beam somewhat larger to give some adjustment room for the x rails? Or is that not a good idea?
Thanks
Mark

parrulho Thu 14 November 2013 11:29

is the limit switch support bracket... M1 18 000. About the holes on main beam they are already more large on rails to give adjustment.

IMMark Thu 14 November 2013 14:48

Thanks Paulo
I appreciate the answers!
Of course, it brings up more questions. Does anyone know (maybe Metalhead)...why are the stop blocks (SB4) sold as a set of 3? Am I missing something here....don't you need 4 of them?
Mark

Alan_c Thu 14 November 2013 15:08

2 for the gantry (1 on each side) and 1 on the Y-car, the gantry needs 2 because its so wide and is possible to twist out of shape, the Y-car is very stiff and relatively small so only needs the one (it fits on the side where the motor is mounted)

IMMark Thu 14 November 2013 15:39

Thanks Alan...that makes sense.
Mark

IMMark Tue 19 November 2013 12:55

I have another couple of questions.
1. As far as the installation of the racks. Is the general consensus, to use tape only or to still attach each end with bolt?
2. Regarding Prox. Sw. target hole, is it drilled all the way through the rail, but stops at the main x beam?
3.Can Prox. Sw. be added later, if the target hole is drilled and the mounting hole through the stopper/limit Sw. assembly? Is wiring them in later anything consideration?
4. How long is the adjusting bolt through the x rails stop blocks? I am in the US and went with 5/16-24 holes in the blocks.
As always, thanks for any input!
Mark

smreish Tue 19 November 2013 15:06

1. VHB tape is fine only
2. Hole thru the rail, but not into the main beam
3. yes, any of the proximity sensors can be added later. The stops should be installed during initial build and are important.
4. my machine used a 2" fully threaded bolt w/ jam nut. Threaded the square bar stock and welded it to the rail as noted in drawing past the proximity hole. This gives you about 1/2" of fine adjustment of gantry square. More than enough.

IMMark Tue 19 November 2013 16:48

Fast reply..and all answered : )
Thanks!
Making progress, I am sure there will be more questions...but it is coming along!!!
Mark

IMMark Thu 21 November 2013 09:33

Two more questions.
Is it critical if the X rails are 1/8" short?
Regarding painting the X rail. Do you try to tape off the gtound part orpaint it all and sand the paint off the ground part?
Thanks
Mark

smreish Thu 21 November 2013 10:08

What is mostly affected is the swing of the motor plate and the size of the pinion.
For the most part, you should not be affected.

If you have a 30-35T pinion...no issue. If you have a small 20 or 24T pinion you may not fully swing into full engagement in the rack. I have been there! :)
Regardless. You should be okay.

Tape off the V area. Or, it will wear off in about a week! Not terribly critical.

IMMark Thu 21 November 2013 10:14

Great news...and thanks for the fast replies!
More to come I am sure.
Mark

smreish Thu 21 November 2013 19:28

...glad to help when we can.

IMMark Sat 07 December 2013 09:15

Couple of more questions...
Regarding stopper lip (M1 18 022)
The specs call for a thickness of .200", I would like to be able to use .250".
Is it ok to use the thicker stock, and if so...do I need to adjust the overall height of the finished assembly, to accommodate the extra .050"?
Also, I am a self taught metal worker (and still teaching myself stuff)...so, how do you guys make the wedge shaped cuts in the angle iron of the same part?
Thanks for any advice!
Mark

pblackburn Sat 07 December 2013 10:49

I used 0.250 angle.

pblackburn Sat 07 December 2013 10:52

You need that cutout for the prox switch if you are using one. I used a mill but it can be done with a bandsaw and grinder, a grinder with cutoff wheel, only your imagination is your limit there.

IMMark Sat 07 December 2013 11:34

Thanks Pete
After looking at the drawings again..I guess the thicker stock doesn't effect it. I was thinking it would make the height .050" too much...but it is still just 1" wide.
I have a milling machine too...still learning how to use it...but I was going to give it a try, using a swivel vice? 2nd option was to go at it with a cut off wheel.
I will see how it goes...thanks again for the suggestions!
Mark

IMMark Sat 25 January 2014 16:05

Time for some more questions!
Regarding the spacing of the v wheels for the z plate. The post here; http://www.mechmate.com/forums/attac...1&d=1215270307
States to add 11mm for the hole spacing in the spider. The v wheels that I have are from Superior Bearing (where I think most people get theirs from) but the bore on them is listed as 0.4724" (0.039") difference from the 11mm? Am I missing something here...any input is appreciated.
Thanks
Mark

smreish Sat 25 January 2014 16:34

The v wheel spacing in the drawings is only a GUIDE to layout.
Depending on your z-plate stock (which in many places in the work is either 100mm or 4" (which is 101.6mm).
The bearings which are BWC compliant should be 12mm and the offset studs are 1/4" bore with 12mm shank. The Superior bearings should be 12mm which is .4724" imperial.

IMMark Sat 25 January 2014 18:31

Thanks Sean
I made a mistake and had to re-weld the holes. I am triple checking everything this time!
Thanks for putting my mind at ease.
Mark

IMMark Sun 02 February 2014 14:37

Does this sound like it meets the E chain requirements?
ID: 15/16" x 1 1/2", OD: 1 3/16" x 2" , Bend radius 5.5" chain center to chain center?
Thanks
Mark

smreish Sun 02 February 2014 19:56

looks small to me.
I used IGUS E-chain that was almost 3" wide, 1.75" tall and bend radius of 8" (or 6")...but much larger than what you have.

The inside fills up quickly.
3 - 4 core18 gauge
1 - air hose
1 - 12/3 for router or spindle
1 - 7 core control cable
2 - 18/2 for button station extras
...air

IMMark Mon 03 February 2014 13:47

OK, thanks.
I wonder if it would be ok for the Y run?
Also, what do you use the air line for?
Mark

smreish Mon 03 February 2014 13:53

Air line I have used for many things, but mostly:
- air powered automizer for cooling of tool when cutting alum or plastic
- blow air to direct the dust pickup with 1/2 of dust shoe removed when using specialty cutters
- run air drill when I change out spindle for drilling operations.
- I also test using it with my DA sanders as a type of polishing fixture ( once )

IMMark Tue 04 February 2014 10:31

Thanks for the tips...must have airline :D
Looks like Igus E26.07.063 should handle all needs?
As for placement of the fixed end, is it located at table center or is there an offset?
Also, as a side note...on laser cut parts, do you knock the "sharp" edge off ?
Thanks
Mark

smreish Tue 04 February 2014 12:08

Fixed end placement? Can you elaborate? - not sure what your asking.
I touched all the laser parts with flap wheel disk to break all the edges (the paint sticks better on smooth edge)


The igus you picked will do...I found that or similar on Ebay when I built my machine.

Fox Tue 04 February 2014 15:44

I used a BD powerfile for breaking the edges of the lasercut parts. It gives you more control and you can enter smaller corners than you can with the flapper disc. One of my favorite tools, I use it very often on all kinds of materials and projects. But a flapper disc and some hand files will do as well. Even hand files alone will do. The paint will creep away from the sharp edges if you don't do this.

IMMark Tue 04 February 2014 16:40

Sorry, by fixed end. I meant the largest of the cable chain shelf parts. I don't see where it placement is on the main x beam?
Also thanks for breaking edges tips Fox and Sean....I have started doing them now.
Mark

IMMark Tue 04 February 2014 20:51

Also, Sean I read your post in the E Chain section, regarding the length of chain to order for a 5 x10 table...buying in 5 feet sections , 3 would be more than enough (15 feet total) for both the x and y's?
Dose that sound right?
Thanks
Mark

smreish Wed 05 February 2014 07:30

Mark,
15' should be enough.

The quick calculation for the correct amount of chain is 1/2 (length of axis travel) + 1/2 bend diameter + a little bit.

So, in practice, if you have a 10' table, you will need 5' move + 2.33' bend + a little extra for the x axis. Which is about 9'

The y axis is 2.5' move + 2.33' bend + a little. Should be about 5.7'

Just double check the bend radius for that IGUS chain to be certain that you have enough length to make the 1/2 diameter distance without being short.

IMMark Wed 05 February 2014 09:30

Thanks!
I wanted to be sure about the formula. Igus lists the radius as 2.48-9.84. I guess that is a min. and max?
Why thoughts on my placement question? I may not have explained it well. I am not sure how to determine where along the main x beam, to attach the first bracket that will support the fixed end of the E chain. Is it at the center of table length it is there an offset?
Thanks
Mark


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