I did a small brake with planning, and start groundwork leveling. While I'm preparing the space for future MM, I requested a quote from China and got fast reply from Claudia.

Company site: www.driver-motor.com

This is their qoute:


Hello Borko,

According to your request, we'd like to feedback as below:

1, NEMA34 step motor 86HS9801: USD48.00/pc x 5 pcs

2, Stepper driver DM856: USD78.00/pc x 5 pcs

3, Spindle DTS-23: USD238.00/pc x 1 pc

4, Spindle holder for DTS-23: USD30.00/pc x 1 pc

5, VFD for DTS-23: USD218.00/pc x 1 pc

6, Collect ER20 chucks whole set: USD6.00/pc x 10 pcs

7, Spanner for ER20 chuck: USD8.00/pc x 1 pc

8, Linear guide way BRH15B carriage: USD40.00/pc x 4 pcs

9, Linear guide way BRH15B-500mm: USD80.00/pc x 2 pcs

10, Timing pulley T5 with 20 teeth: please advise the matching belt width

11, Timing pulley T5 with 60 teeth: please advise the matching belt width

12, Timing belt T5 x 355: please advise the belt width

13, Ball Screw Model No. DFS01605 - 3.8: We need drawing for the machined ends for quoatation

14, Coupling W type: please advise the length and diameter of the coupling?

15, CNC breakout board: USD40.00/pc x 1 pc

16, Energy chain type LX25.4 (25x57mm, R75): USD30.00/meter x 1.5 meter

17, Energy chain type LX25.2 (25x38mm, R75): USD22.00/meter x 1.5 meter

All above is based on FOB shenzhen incoterm, please comment the other specification.

Regards,
Claudia

And the shipping cost for all this?

Approx. 430 $. But shipping costs are different for different countries. You need to ask for a quotation.

Hi guys I haven't posted a long time. As I said this will be slow build. I have to jump from work to work. The nature doesn't wait, a lot of season work in vineyard, spraying...and so. It took a lot of time at weekends. Here's the picture.:)

Finally the parts arrived. Released from customs. I ordered according to above quote.
It seems to be Ok but timing pulleys don't make me happy.
The gear ratio I plan to make reducers is 1:3.
Pulleys are 60 / 20 teeth Type T5.

It can be clearly seen that there is backlash between T5 belt and 60 teeth pulley. I can not see on 20 teeth pulley coz of flanges.:mad:

Pls I'll appreciate your comments .

I noticed this on my pulleys and belts as well, I questioned the supplier and was told that it was normal, I have not experienced any problems of backlash in my belt drive reduction system.

Reason you most likely won't notice any backlash after installing the entire stuff on your machine is your reduction, and the amount of teeth in mesh will make it dissappear. That's the benefit of pulley and belts vs meshed gears.

What will happen with backlash, it depends on loads, while steppers run forward after backward and reverse. I'm worried about this, doesn't make me happy, but if you guys say so than I'll sleep well at the very beginning.
Thank you guys.

Backlash is where the motor moves but there is play in the mechanism before the thing that the motor is driving actually starts moving and that amount of error is called backlash

Yes, and that's why it's less with a pulley belt pulley reduction.. vs gear gear reduction or direct drive.

Sixteen months have been passed since my last post but I have not stopped reading the forum. Yes, the machine building was delayed, but I had to prepare surface fundamental for the beast. I got approved ( green light from wife ) and started to adapt the future workshop.

Pics will follow.

Here it is. Leveling first.

The progress.

Almost finished.

Walls and ceiling colored white, with homemade neon armatures.:)

For the start I would need for a angle grinder ( big one ) that I intend to use as a chop saw. The choice was chinese industrial tools brand INGCO. It's something between quality and price. Powerfull grinder 2100 W.

I like clear and nice cuts.
So, this is my DIY stand for angle grinder.:)

Nice looking chop saw jig.
Necessity is the mother of invention.

Steel cut and construction started (angle grinder did nice and precise cuts ). The metal frame will be all joined with screws. Steel was new but stayed couple of months outside, there is surface corrosion which I will remove before painting.

Here are some pics of the progress.

Well along the way. Looks great!

Thank you for the encourage Jack.

The building continues this weekend. I use stick welder. These red magnet arrow holders are terrific, 5 USD each.:)

I've got custom made plasma cut 6mm plates for bolting legs an frame. Small welds and pivot drilled with this old drill that I bought on junkyard for 10 bucks.

It came out that the old drill is METABO with gear box inside. It 'eats' steel like butter with only 200 W.:D

Everything done on place without stand drill.

If you are indeed bolting all joints only ( I notice the tackwelds, but I think for drilling only ? ) you better use two bolts on those joints to create a more rigid construction. One bolt creates a pivoting joint where the table surface mdf and front and back frame are the only parts preventing racking from quare to parallelogram. In Cnc table frames you want everything as square and rigid as you can. If you weld the subbeams you do not have the pivot action.

Thank you Fox for your advice. You are right, there is possibility for pivoting, except I Secure the bolts for front and back frame with legs ( easier one ) than drilling second hole in crossbeams and beams ( there is no access / or one side of '[' channel must be additionally cut off for drill access what does not make me happy ). I want to use as less as possible welds because I would like to leave a chance for disassemble, moving and transporting, otherwise it would be pity to cut and grind this awesome machine.

I can weld cross members anytime if comes to necessity.

Here is the pic of joint plate ( legs / front - back frame ). Pls tell me your opinion.

Somewhere on the forum I found the idea of making own bevel shims. I'll need them for bolting cross memebers to main beams.

The cut-off pieces from main beams are used for this purpose. Making something from 'nothing' make me fell happy.

There will be some time and work consuming but the bevel match ideally.;)

In meantime laser cut parts are finished and bent. All done locally for a good price. Bending cost me only 5$.;)

I started building from upside down. Drilled also holes for bolting cross bearers on lowest frame horizontal parts ( for eventually future moving bed, lower for cca. 600mm, and upgrading the machine to another version, who knows? ).

All steel parts marked and ready for disassembling and painting.