I've not got my machine going yet, but have set up my VFD/2.2kw spindle for trial run and testing. I can tell you that it operates much much quieter (until tool starts cutting the materials) than any router I've ever encountered (almost whisper quiet (depending on how well you could hear before)). The 2.2kw spindle operates all speed ranges at a true 3hp while the hand routers rated at 3.25hp (peak)are really operate just over 2hp. WAY worth the headache imho.

The spindle could be wired as simple as a standard 3 wire run set up....start, stop and enable.
The speed and direction of rotation could be preset on VFD front panel. Once you get into cutting a lot of the same thing, you go months without changing the spindle speed.

I personally used both on my machine. Both worked fine, but the router was a PC 1758 and incredibly loud. The spindle I had to check and see if it was on! Love the spindle...

Okay, I'm convinced...quiet is good, hp is ALWAYS good. Sooooo next point to ponder would be where's a good tutorial for hooking up the thing. The VFD is complete Greek to me...you can't even call me a beginner. I understand why Gerald wanted people to read and learn instead of giving out a bill of materials and a step by step how to guide...I've learned a ton already working thru my personal wiring diagram...heck I might not even let the magic smoke out, but I'm finding nothing of educational value about the HuanYang VFD. I have searched CNCZone and have found countless mentions of the VFD and have read till I'm cross-eyed but have yet to find much in the way of "knowledge"...:o

I remember seeing a post somewhere about one guy that put a 'warning light' on his CNC machine to denote the spindle being powered on because of it being basically silent until it starts cutting.

If you do a search on youtube you will find several videos on using the HuanYang VFD. I bought the same type of setup. I have not tested it yet, but I am not concerned about getting it working when I am ready to install it.

Will check youtube. Didn't even think of that one... ;-)

Jack, That sounds like a good idea.

Power supply and proxies
 

Am trying to get my head around several things, electric-wise, and want a clarification. When using the SI12-C2 NPN NO H proxy sensors, the spec sheet says they will work with 10-30VDC...if you power them from the start with 12V and then each additional sensor causes a little voltage drop...you very likely get below the 10V minimum before the circuit is completed (leading to a iffy situation, function-wise, if I have got my head around this)...so best idea is to power the circuit with 24V to begin with...and with the PMDX 126 and its ability to handle 24V into its inputs you have no worries of harming the BOB and no need to add relays/etc. Does this sound right?

Second question would be about the power supply. The Antek units have a main voltage that comes off the coil, but different versions also have a couple of lower voltage taps as well. I seem to remember reading of a 48V model with a 12V and 5V hookup as well. I can't this one mentioned on their site...does anyone know a location for it?

If I am understanding the proxy circuit right it would seem that I would also need something to supply 24V as well...is there one power supply that will handle this as well?

The Antek unit your referring to is here:
http://www.antekinc.com/power-supplies/

When you look at the chart you will need to work out the math for your PS current needs.

The part number should look like this PS-xN XX XX
The first is the Wattage size of the PS
The second is the 1st alternate tap you want (24V, 12V or 5V)
The third is the 2nd alternate tap you want (12v or 5V)

For instance, my machine used a 600 Watt, 56 Volt with a 12V tap and 5v tap.
Thus PS-6R56N12R5 (I know the new website shows a slightly different part number scheme...but close for demonstration)

Make sense?

When I bought my power supply, they did not have the add on low voltage supplies in stock. I decided to just use DIN mounted 24V power supply for the proximity sensors. I have also purchased a 5V DIN.

I also purchased a seperate DIN rail powersupply, cause Antek burned down at the time and shipping woudl kill me anyway. So I built my own toroid powersupply for the drives and used seperate Din powersupply for the prox and controller board.
I can recommend the brand Meanwell. They cost me about the same as a stepdown regulator ) would but with the advantadge of the isolation and they boost a V ok led and signal output ( not that you need it, but )

Great info guys...finally had an "ah-ha" moment on the power supply sizing...Will go with the 48V main with 12 + 5 V secondary taps, and just get the DIN mounted 24V PS for the proxy sensor circuit. Should start having presents from the UPS man start showing up on the doorstep soon :-)
New guys take note...if you keep reading this electrical stuff, it actually starts to make sense...imagine that.

I know that feeling ;-)

One tip: properly write down the dececisons you make and their motivation, as the conclusions to any calculations on these electrics... now that they are obvious. File them with your plans. What seems logical now, can give you headaches in a few years time when you need to repair/reroute something. If it's on paper it will take minutes, otherwhise hours to find in that grey mass ( especially when deviating from the plans/common methods). Those WTFWDIDT* moments aint funny when you have a deadline.





*(What The F*ck Why Did I Do That ?)

Have actually already started that :-) I realized a few years ago that if I HAVE to remember something it better be written down. I have a 11x17 printer...I have been printing the wiring diagrams, large format, and drawing sketches and doing the calcs long hand...documentation it's a good thing :-)

Well, no longer planning...actually building
 

Well, after off and on planning and parts buying, I finally attacked metal. Decided to get the part I've been dreading the worst out of the way first...the electrical stuff. The metal work is kinda fun to me...the electric stuff is an alien language. Gonna post a few pictures of my kitchen table project then ask a question or 2.

(Did a quick pattern layout in CAD of the PMDX boards, Smoothstepper and various other items to locate holes.)
http://www.kilocharlie.us/MechMate/Pictures/1sm.jpg

(Thin layer of spray glue on the back of the plot and stick it to the removable panel from the box...center punch the holes)
http://www.kilocharlie.us/MechMate/Pictures/2sm.jpg

(Drill all the holes appropriate sizes)
http://www.kilocharlie.us/MechMate/Pictures/3sm.jpg


http://www.kilocharlie.us/MechMate/Pictures/4sm.jpg

(Coat of color on the box...sorry this MechMate is gonna be safety red...cheaper than the Ferrari shade I had in mind)
http://www.kilocharlie.us/MechMate/Pictures/5sm.jpg

(Mount everything on the panel)
http://www.kilocharlie.us/MechMate/Pictures/6sm.jpg

(Outputs from the contactor wired to a test light to test the main power circuit...everything clicks on and off with the door mounted switch, and the test circuit with the Emergency Stop button pops the contactor off just like planned...so far the magic smoke has been kept inside)
http://www.kilocharlie.us/MechMate/Pictures/7sm.jpg

Looking good !!!
No smoke is a good thing !!

G203V resistor...What size?
 

Am using KL34H280-45-8A motors...wiring them UNIPOLAR. The spec sheet with the motors shows them pulling 4.5A wired unipolar. The silk-screened chart on the body of the G203V's says 62K @ 4A and 120k @ 5A...so split the difference? 91K +/-?
Looking for opinions.

loose bulb
 

Can't remember the model number, but is the common switch used from FactoryMation...the bulb doesn't appear to have anyway to lock into the holder other than friction...is this normal? Any significant bump makes the bulb lose contact and I assume the vibration of the machine will certainly make it jostle loose in no time. Does this sound normal?

http://www.kilocharlie.us/MechMate/P...Light_bulb.jpg

doesn't sound normal to me.

I'll take it apart and get a good close up picture off it...I'm wondering if the holder might be a defective unit...

http://www.kilocharlie.us/MechMate/P...ulb_holder.jpg

Does this look normal?

Doesn't the switch hold it in? because it looks normal to me.

The bulb has a contact spring under it and the bulb can push up about a quarter inch before touching anything on the switch which allows the side contact on the bulb to let go. Isn't a show stopper...the switch circuit works even if the bulb comes loose.

I have one of those switches but ended up using another from Automationdirect for some reason.

you twist the bulb to lock them in place.
Your holder is either broken ( where it woudl catch the bulb), or you just have to do that so it latches.

Didn't notice the notch inside the socket...but the bulb did lock in place. Guess I was expecting a socket like the typical car tail light. All good now.

there ya go :D

Construction started?
 

How does one change the title of their build thread? And does a kitchen table project justify a bump out of the "planning stage" category?

You just have to ask! :)

Go ahead, ask :p