I call her Big Blue #119 - Columbus, Ohio
 

Can someone tell me, what actually hits the x rail stopper block (10 10 248)?
Is there something on the gantry that hangs down and catches it?
Also, regarding installing the x rails; did any of you make the holes through the main x beam somewhat larger to give some adjustment room for the x rails? Or is that not a good idea?
Thanks
Mark

is the limit switch support bracket... M1 18 000. About the holes on main beam they are already more large on rails to give adjustment.

Thanks Paulo
I appreciate the answers!
Of course, it brings up more questions. Does anyone know (maybe Metalhead)...why are the stop blocks (SB4) sold as a set of 3? Am I missing something here....don't you need 4 of them?
Mark

2 for the gantry (1 on each side) and 1 on the Y-car, the gantry needs 2 because its so wide and is possible to twist out of shape, the Y-car is very stiff and relatively small so only needs the one (it fits on the side where the motor is mounted)

Thanks Alan...that makes sense.
Mark

I have another couple of questions.
1. As far as the installation of the racks. Is the general consensus, to use tape only or to still attach each end with bolt?
2. Regarding Prox. Sw. target hole, is it drilled all the way through the rail, but stops at the main x beam?
3.Can Prox. Sw. be added later, if the target hole is drilled and the mounting hole through the stopper/limit Sw. assembly? Is wiring them in later anything consideration?
4. How long is the adjusting bolt through the x rails stop blocks? I am in the US and went with 5/16-24 holes in the blocks.
As always, thanks for any input!
Mark

1. VHB tape is fine only
2. Hole thru the rail, but not into the main beam
3. yes, any of the proximity sensors can be added later. The stops should be installed during initial build and are important.
4. my machine used a 2" fully threaded bolt w/ jam nut. Threaded the square bar stock and welded it to the rail as noted in drawing past the proximity hole. This gives you about 1/2" of fine adjustment of gantry square. More than enough.

Fast reply..and all answered : )
Thanks!
Making progress, I am sure there will be more questions...but it is coming along!!!
Mark

Two more questions.
Is it critical if the X rails are 1/8" short?
Regarding painting the X rail. Do you try to tape off the gtound part orpaint it all and sand the paint off the ground part?
Thanks
Mark

What is mostly affected is the swing of the motor plate and the size of the pinion.
For the most part, you should not be affected.

If you have a 30-35T pinion...no issue. If you have a small 20 or 24T pinion you may not fully swing into full engagement in the rack. I have been there! :)
Regardless. You should be okay.

Tape off the V area. Or, it will wear off in about a week! Not terribly critical.

Great news...and thanks for the fast replies!
More to come I am sure.
Mark

...glad to help when we can.

Couple of more questions...
Regarding stopper lip (M1 18 022)
The specs call for a thickness of .200", I would like to be able to use .250".
Is it ok to use the thicker stock, and if so...do I need to adjust the overall height of the finished assembly, to accommodate the extra .050"?
Also, I am a self taught metal worker (and still teaching myself stuff)...so, how do you guys make the wedge shaped cuts in the angle iron of the same part?
Thanks for any advice!
Mark

I used 0.250 angle.

You need that cutout for the prox switch if you are using one. I used a mill but it can be done with a bandsaw and grinder, a grinder with cutoff wheel, only your imagination is your limit there.

Thanks Pete
After looking at the drawings again..I guess the thicker stock doesn't effect it. I was thinking it would make the height .050" too much...but it is still just 1" wide.
I have a milling machine too...still learning how to use it...but I was going to give it a try, using a swivel vice? 2nd option was to go at it with a cut off wheel.
I will see how it goes...thanks again for the suggestions!
Mark

Time for some more questions!
Regarding the spacing of the v wheels for the z plate. The post here; http://www.mechmate.com/forums/attac...1&d=1215270307
States to add 11mm for the hole spacing in the spider. The v wheels that I have are from Superior Bearing (where I think most people get theirs from) but the bore on them is listed as 0.4724" (0.039") difference from the 11mm? Am I missing something here...any input is appreciated.
Thanks
Mark

The v wheel spacing in the drawings is only a GUIDE to layout.
Depending on your z-plate stock (which in many places in the work is either 100mm or 4" (which is 101.6mm).
The bearings which are BWC compliant should be 12mm and the offset studs are 1/4" bore with 12mm shank. The Superior bearings should be 12mm which is .4724" imperial.

Thanks Sean
I made a mistake and had to re-weld the holes. I am triple checking everything this time!
Thanks for putting my mind at ease.
Mark

Does this sound like it meets the E chain requirements?
ID: 15/16" x 1 1/2", OD: 1 3/16" x 2" , Bend radius 5.5" chain center to chain center?
Thanks
Mark

looks small to me.
I used IGUS E-chain that was almost 3" wide, 1.75" tall and bend radius of 8" (or 6")...but much larger than what you have.

The inside fills up quickly.
3 - 4 core18 gauge
1 - air hose
1 - 12/3 for router or spindle
1 - 7 core control cable
2 - 18/2 for button station extras
...air

OK, thanks.
I wonder if it would be ok for the Y run?
Also, what do you use the air line for?
Mark

Air line I have used for many things, but mostly:
- air powered automizer for cooling of tool when cutting alum or plastic
- blow air to direct the dust pickup with 1/2 of dust shoe removed when using specialty cutters
- run air drill when I change out spindle for drilling operations.
- I also test using it with my DA sanders as a type of polishing fixture ( once )

Thanks for the tips...must have airline :D
Looks like Igus E26.07.063 should handle all needs?
As for placement of the fixed end, is it located at table center or is there an offset?
Also, as a side note...on laser cut parts, do you knock the "sharp" edge off ?
Thanks
Mark

Fixed end placement? Can you elaborate? - not sure what your asking.
I touched all the laser parts with flap wheel disk to break all the edges (the paint sticks better on smooth edge)


The igus you picked will do...I found that or similar on Ebay when I built my machine.

I used a BD powerfile for breaking the edges of the lasercut parts. It gives you more control and you can enter smaller corners than you can with the flapper disc. One of my favorite tools, I use it very often on all kinds of materials and projects. But a flapper disc and some hand files will do as well. Even hand files alone will do. The paint will creep away from the sharp edges if you don't do this.

Sorry, by fixed end. I meant the largest of the cable chain shelf parts. I don't see where it placement is on the main x beam?
Also thanks for breaking edges tips Fox and Sean....I have started doing them now.
Mark

Also, Sean I read your post in the E Chain section, regarding the length of chain to order for a 5 x10 table...buying in 5 feet sections , 3 would be more than enough (15 feet total) for both the x and y's?
Dose that sound right?
Thanks
Mark

Mark,
15' should be enough.

The quick calculation for the correct amount of chain is 1/2 (length of axis travel) + 1/2 bend diameter + a little bit.

So, in practice, if you have a 10' table, you will need 5' move + 2.33' bend + a little extra for the x axis. Which is about 9'

The y axis is 2.5' move + 2.33' bend + a little. Should be about 5.7'

Just double check the bend radius for that IGUS chain to be certain that you have enough length to make the 1/2 diameter distance without being short.

Thanks!
I wanted to be sure about the formula. Igus lists the radius as 2.48-9.84. I guess that is a min. and max?
Why thoughts on my placement question? I may not have explained it well. I am not sure how to determine where along the main x beam, to attach the first bracket that will support the fixed end of the E chain. Is it at the center of table length it is there an offset?
Thanks
Mark

Mark,
The actually location is really where ever you want to.
To find the shortest usable length, I attached a 2x4 with clamps at the bottom of the c channel and then attached the e-chain to the car. Manually moved back and forth until I found the static link that didn't bend or move. It was about mid point, but slightly beyond to keep the last few links flat on the support bar.

This let me set the correct attachement height of the support bar and length to match the best bend radius of the chain. The bigger the radius, the better for the cables and air line inside e-chain.

Does that make sense?

That makes perfect sense!
Thanks so much fir your help. I have ordered the E chain and will wait till I have it in hand.
I am getting close on this thing!!!
Do you think there would be any issues, with putting the stop blocks for the Y rail....in the rail without the rack? Three plans call for them to be on the rail with the each.
Thanks
Mark

x rail - 4 stops (2 each side on each end)
y rail - 2 stops only (1 each end)
No problem putting them on now. Make sure to notice that the Y CAR end stops are SHORTER than the ones for the x rail. Welding the wrong ones on will block the car travel. ( I Know how this is a bad thing) :)

Yes, I have the 4 X stops welded on. I have the Y stops made (the right height :) ). But 1 of my Y rails may need to be remade...so I was hoping to weld them on the other Y rail ( the one without the rack).
I don't see where it would be a problem..but wanted to make sure.
Mark

The challenge with using the other side, that is not the driven side by the pinion and will exert excessive yaw on the y-car and cause it to twist when it hits the hard stop.

Put it on the correct side if you can.

Got it...Probably smart to file the plans :)
One more question (at least), on the soil board...can it have a joint in it. I will have 3/4" 5 x 10 support board. But I would like to use 1/2" spoil...and can't get it in 5 x 10 size?
Also on the "extra" space to the sides of the support board, it be filed in with wood to"catch" sawdust?
Mark

Mark,
Joints are fine.
I used spare pieces of 1/2" MDF on my 3/4" spoil board all the time. A 2'x2 or a 4'x8' then fill in the gaps.
As long as your surfacing the table, and glue the sections down, your fine.

After a bit, you will need to replace that 1/2 part anyway.

You can fill in the side area's, but the reason they exist is so you can use G, C or bar clamps to hold your material to the spoil board.
Unless you are putting in a vac table, or using some other hold down mechanism - leave it open as designed.

No vac table yet..perhaps in the future.
I will probably make some removable side boards to fill the gaps. I will be storing things under the table...so I want to keep sawdust out.
Any thoughts on tool holders. I will start out with a Porter Cable router and move to a spindle eventually. My thought is to mount it so the bottom of the collet is just above the bottom of the z plate. That way, when a bit is installed I would have max. amount of travel?
If that makes sense :)

Go straight to a spindle if you have the spare cash.
U really don't have to worry about the tool holder position. There are no fix rule in it. Anything that make you happy will do.

I would love to start out with spindle...I checked my "spare" cash drawer...2 bottle caps and some dryer lint :D
I will have to start out with the router, I just really want to get this thing cutting! I am afraid that I may be the first 4 digit MM number :eek:
Mark