Cutting Wing Rib Forms #118 - Oklahoma USA
 

What is the size of of the angle iron that is used for the cross rails. I do not see a specification. It looks like maybe 1/4", but I am not sure.

Also, what is the meaning of the red hatching in the longitudinal direction I see in drawing 10-10-246-D. Is that some extra length? If so, how much?

Never mind, just as soon as I post, I find what I need at M1-10-110-M.

Learnin the ropes - Oklahoma USA
 

What is the english equivalent to 100mmx50mmx2mm rectangular tubing.
The closest in 32nd's would be 3/32, but I see nothing like that.

the closest equivalent would be 2 in by 4 in by 1/4 in. Also, try asking all your questions in the same thread, as each member is only allowed one build thread per machine.

I will be sure to keep keep everything in one thread. I am sure there was an FAQ I was supposed to read somewhere about that.

1/4in is almost 3 times the thickness of what is specified in the drawings. That would seem to add a lot of weight to the gantry. If I needed to go oversize like that, I would think I would be better off with 1/8 wall, if it can be found.

I also just noticed in the similar thread listing,

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=232

Too bad that did not pop up before I created this thread.

DB - goto the forum main page and look at the sections. In each section there are sticky threads at the top. Read those. Then look in the MechMate's already cutting area and sort on views and start reading through those threads .... did I mention a lot of reading :D. Also as you read more details of the plans will start to jump out at you.

I merged your threads.

OK,thanks.

On page 10-30-455P I see a reference to a higher drawing 10-30-400 W, but I can not find it in the supplied drawings. Perhaps it should be referring to drawing 10-30-420W?

I am also guessing that 10-30-455P should also indicate that 2 of these should be made, based off of what is in 10-30-420W?

As a background. I almost always make 3D models first. That way I know exactly what I need to do before I go into the shop and start cutting metal. I almost always find myself regretting it, when I do not go through this process.

2D drawings always have little ambiguites and errors. I like to find those problems before I get into the shop. I will probably have lots of other little "nitpicks" and questions as I go through this process.

Going over the z-axis drawings I notice what may be a typo.

Drawing 10-40-014A shows as being a 250mm slide, but in the drawing spreadsheet at the beginning of the plans, it shows 10-40-014A as a 350mm slide.

10-40-000 shows as a 250mm slide in both locations, so I am assuming that one is correctly labeled.

DB
What release of the drawings do you have? If your referring to the TITLE block in both sets the 10" refers to the stroke distance of the plate, not the actual distance. Use 10 40 330 and 10 40 334 for true length reference of the slide that fits your build requirements. The option allows for an additional 100mm of z-stroke for those needing the extra travel.

I do not see an overall revision number for the plans, but I downloaded them from the paid area about 2 days ago.

Then you have the current set.

Ok.
The two drawings I am referring to are the assembly drawings for the Z-Slide Assembly. Both drawings say 250mm.
In the drawing index, one is referred to as 250mm and the other 350mm.

Clearly a typo...just know that you have 2 options. Funny, your the first that I know of to pick that one up. With almost 100 known machines, I am certain that little type won't derail the build.

Good luck and don't pain over the drawings - pictures in the forum builds are far more educational. A good pictorial is JR's build.

Do you have a link to JR's build. When I do a search I find no user with that name.

#4 machine build....
http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showt...north+carolina

See Drawing problems and revisions required, considered and intended . . . . .

I seem to remember this one listed before, but that would be right place to list drawing problem issues.

What are the alternatives to using Antek for the power supply or transformer. I tried emailing them today to get some information about one of their power supplies for a non Mechmate project and was not very impressed with the response. In addition I have seen some posts on this forum about some difficulties when ordering from them.

As a result, I am rather reluctant to place an order with them.

The power supply transformers technology is over a century old.
Just bring your specs to any transformer people. Google is your friend...

DB - I buy from them all the time. They are a small company but make a solid product.

I order 1 or 2 a month from them without issues....along with the sister company Par Metal.
Jon is a good guy....they just have a very busy small business. No worries.

DB,

I had occasion to call them a few times for some information and bought a fuse block. I find them to be very responsive. Never tried e mail.

Thanks for the feedback on them. I will go ahead and give them a try, but it sounds like dealing with them by phone may be better.

Where does the V=32*sqrt(L) formula for max voltage come from? I see it quoted a lot, but I can find no reference to how it was derived.

Gecko drive designer Mariss, see here, section 6

Can someone point me to some pictures of already wired control boxes.
I am trying to get an idea of how the wire is organized and how the interconnection between components is done.

See here post 182 and further down from post 203

Thanks Alan,
That is a great looking layout.
Is there a standard name for the termination blocks and cable connectors you used?

Disregard previous question. I think I see everything I need at automation direct.

I have a control box I sell that includes a 20x20x10 cabinet. I also have electrical and 4 and 8 core wire. All ready to ship if needed.

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showt...99&postcount=1

Kit has adjust a little as has the price. But you can see the basics in that thread.

I recommend trying Mike for parts. Automation Direct has all the items, I find them a very good supplier with good quality and they come in large quantities, way more that we would normally use. For wire, many suppliers often have substantial cutting charge. Firstly, getting the parts from Mike gave me, a very novice with Mechmate wiring, some security and guidance about where to go and what I would need. As I went along, things started to come together and looking back, it would have taken me longer, with more mistakes to go it by myself.

Is there any reason not to build in the order of control panel, gantry, z-axis and then table.
Because of space constraints, I think it will work better to save building the table frame for last.

It's actually better to do the Control Panel (kitchen project) first. This is the bulk of the table build and most important. The table and all it's metal parts can be built in a long weekend or two. Plus, the electronics are the more expensive part of the project, if you can fund that first, you are more apt to finish your build.

Best,
Sean

One of the best things about the MechMate is that you can build it however you want. I agree that if you get the controls built and motors turning you have a huge step in getting the machine build completed.

Another way I like to tell people to look at it is take on the tough parts first so you can get them behind you. If you are scared to do welding, dive in and get it going. If your structural in nature and good at welding and mechanics, tackle the electronics first.

Again the approach is up to you.

Does the RSS feed work for site?
I found a post by Gerald, from about 5 years ago, saying it was enabled, but when I try the rss link http://www.mechmate.com/forums/external.php?type=rss
I do not get any posts appearing.

After over a year delay, I am finally moving forward with my mechmate build. I will most likely be building 4 foot by 6 foot. I would like to build bigger, but I just do not have the space.

One thing I would like to add is a plotter pen. I am thinking something that would be activated by a solenoid to drop the pen down. Has anyone done something like this yet?

My main use will be for cutting/drilling sheet metal that will be bent in a brake. It would be nice to have all sight lines and any notes already printed on the piece when it comes off machine.

I have ordered in a bunch of parts from Mike and other places to start work on the control panel.

One thing that seems to be lacking is some kind of a power bus bar with the contactor as its input and splitting out to everything that needs 120V.
Is everyone just cramming all the wire ends into the contactor or is there something else being done?

I have looked several examples of control panel pictures, but it is hard to follow where all the wires are really going.