MechMate CNC Router Forum

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-   -   First Cuts And Has Stickers! #126 - Genesee, WI (http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=792)

Guillermo Sun 08 April 2012 07:00

Hi Herb.

Try drilling at slower RPM . About 60 rpm.

JasonC Sun 08 April 2012 13:21

And lube the bit while drilling to keep the heat down.

Red_boards Tue 10 April 2012 17:44

I only used one set of drill bits in my build. None bent or snapped. Lots of cutting oil. Frequent sharpening (I use a Drill Doctor - a worth while investment that's paid for itself and given me a new "skill"). A drill press is key so the pressure is directly down. All my drilling was at 100rpm. Probably slow for some people, but I did get nice curls coming off the bit.
Here's a post that helped me http://w3.uwyo.edu/~metal/drilling.html

WTI Tue 10 April 2012 18:30

Drill Doctor rules, and I never see anyone else talk about it.

Buy the few bits you are going to use a lot in Cobalt.

They last 6-8 times longer than normal, and when you resharpen them, the cobalt is not ground away.

MetalHead Tue 10 April 2012 21:09

I have one!!! 750X rules :D !!! Use it all the time.

Made by Darex - Drill Doctor is there domestic brand. Real toyz here:

http://www.darex.com/

KenC Tue 10 April 2012 22:20

Nowadays, hand grinding drill bit is a lost skill.

Travish Wed 11 April 2012 14:07

I have the darex XT3000, but my preferred method is by hand and a drill gage. I like to simpleness looking at the drill doctors.

hflwaterski Sun 02 February 2014 18:45

Well I'm back at it and working on the record for longest build. I think I have it squarely in hand if I ever get there. I have a quick double check I want to throw past everyone. I'm getting back to the kitchen table project. I plan on running a 110V router initially and eventually a spindle with a VFD. I would also like to run a 110V dust collector and have it turn on automatically. I found the following solid state relay (CRYDOM CKRD2430) and just wanted to run it by everyone before I ordered two of them. One for the router and one for the dust collector.

http://www.crydom.com/en/products/catalog/c_kr24.pdf

Another follow-up question. If I eventually go to a VFD with a spindle, should I consider wiring up the panel with 220 volts or leave it at 110 volts as I have it now?

Tom Ayres Mon 03 February 2014 02:58

I'd run 220 in anyway, gives you the spindle option and its just one more wire in and a few minor differences in contactor, etc. I asked the very same question about setting up the dust collector to turn on automatically, it was suggested by several not to and just do it manually, but to each his own.

smreish Mon 03 February 2014 06:19

I personally prefer to turn on the dust collection manually.
I have found, that I always had at least a few cutting operations that dust collection hurt the process, than helped it.

Good luck with your choices.

hflwaterski Wed 05 February 2014 12:41

Kitchen Table Project
 
Updating you quickly during my work lunch. The heat sink is mounted with all the tapped holes ready for mounting the Geckos (will put in temporarily and wait until the end for the heat sink compound), the BOB stand-offs are in, and expecting the SSRs today or tomorrow. I hate parting with the money but love having gifts at my door when I get home from work. Tonight's short list, mounting the control panel vent, mounting the muffin fan, prepping and cutting wire to connect the Geckos to the BOB.

I'm doing some last minute calculations and just want to run it by the electronic experts...which I am definitely not.

Using the following:
PS5N30R5R12
Gecko G203Vs
PK296A2A-SG2.7 Unipolar (half coil) equating to 3A/Phase

47 x 3 / (7 - 3) = 35.25

I need (4) 35K resistors. Do I have that correct?

By the way, I upgraded to a larger panel. One of the other forum members graciously traded me for my smaller panel so I had to do some rework. Please disregard the earlier photos of the control panel.

hflwaterski Fri 07 February 2014 13:16

They only had 33K resistors at Radio Shack. Will I have any problems using those as opposed to the 35K resistors?

domino11 Fri 07 February 2014 21:36

Those will be fine!

hflwaterski Sat 08 February 2014 21:45

Well, it's a major milestone for me. I was able to get everything talking to each other. Very exciting since I'm not an electronics wizard like some of you out there in MechMate Land. I'm looking forward to finishing up the rest of the panel but it was nice to take time out to get things moving for the first time.

http://youtu.be/b3qS8uHoFpA

Tom Ayres Sun 09 February 2014 04:30

Excellent, that's a big step. Keep on a roll.:)

hflwaterski Wed 12 February 2014 07:30

On Its Feet!
 
2 Attachment(s)
The table is finally on its feet. I was able to squeeze a little work in on the table and control panel.

hflwaterski Sun 16 February 2014 20:06

1 Attachment(s)
Started the dreaded rail grinding. Won't get much time with it during the week but at least it's started.

hflwaterski Sun 16 March 2014 19:42

3 Attachment(s)
Just wanted to update everyone on my status and pass along my solution to the cross angle brace. Don't look too closely at my Frankenstein welds because it was definitely a challenge for me to figure out the angles. I used the holes at the bottom of the channel that will be used for drilling out the support board. I simply made a bracket that spanned two holes on the channel and then welded the cross angle brace to the single cross bearer on the bottom. I still have the other side to do but I wanted to make sure it was going to work out.

All of the grinding is finished but I haven't drilled the holes out for either the table or the gantry. I will tackle that after I finish the other cross angle brace.

hflwaterski Mon 31 March 2014 10:37

Wiring and Paint
 
4 Attachment(s)
I figured it's time for an update. I was able to get quite a bit done over the past couple weeks. I'm happy to say that there are only very minor items left on the build checklist excluding wiring. I made a few minor mistakes along the way but nothing that should impair the operation of the machine.

I ended up with a broken tap (see photo) in one of the main beam holes but other than that, it's ready for wiring and paint. So question to the group. Would you stop now and paint the whole thing first before wiring or would you finish mocking it up in case there are additional brackets to add, etc? I was thinking I would do a test run with it before paint due to the lack of warm weather here. I probably won't see temps appropriate for paint for another 3-6 weeks anyway. Suggestions?

Tom Ayres Mon 31 March 2014 10:45

Some don't even paint it for awhile, personally, cold weather or not I'd paint it first. Adding things to it later may require touch up, that's about all. If you don't paint it now you may never paint it.

darren salyer Mon 31 March 2014 12:53

Truer words were never spoken, Tom.
Had I not painted mine before completion, I doubt it would be now.

KenC Tue 01 April 2014 00:12

Paint it 1st. worry about touch up latter.
IMHO, at least prime the metal.
Its like cleaning up the machine before you go to installing the smaller bits.

hflwaterski Wed 17 June 2015 21:49

After taking the advice of others, I'm finally applying paint. I think I would never take it apart once it was together and running. I'll shoot some pics after I get a little further.

Tom Ayres Thu 18 June 2015 02:49

Should we be looking for some wild color scheme or are you going with the standard MM blue?

lonestaral Thu 18 June 2015 05:44

By 'Wld colour scheme' do you mean
Leopard spots or Tiger stripes :D

hflwaterski Thu 18 June 2015 07:56

Pretty standard: MechMate blue with black rails and trim pieces. Can't wait to get the sticker on!

Tom Ayres Thu 18 June 2015 10:13

Zebra strips of coarse

hflwaterski Sat 01 August 2015 06:26

1 Attachment(s)
Paint is finally on and only a couple small pieces to finish up. Final assembly can finally begin.

jhiggins7 Sun 02 August 2015 05:44

Looking good Herb.

hflwaterski Sat 24 October 2015 21:03

1 Attachment(s)
At long last, there is very little left to paint and I have things ready to assemble.


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