Do my legs look fat? - Brisbane Australia
 

Hi all My name is Peter,
I Live in the southern part of Brisbane Australia.
I have an Idea of what I want to do but first a lot of lurking and reading of plans forums and playing with different software packages. Too much time on my hands. I will soon start the build of a new fiberglass ultralight plane.

Will have a lot of questions as we go.

best of luck

Peter

Peter,

Build the MeckMate first. You can make your own parts and molds.

Further info
 

Just a bit more about myself

I am a chef who travels a lot, Gordon Ramsay I am not but do the same sort of Job (trouble shooting kitchens)

i am 45 single and the reason I have so much time is I can be awake for 18+ hours per day studying something.

Flying is a hobby and a mode of transport to and from work. need for a faster plane but have always been intruiged about the how does it work side of things.

Salifi that was /is the plan, the head of finances will allow both toys.

Cheers
Peter

Welcome Peter!

Pete, you are not alone! There are some good guys near who are building MM's

MM is a door to new possibilities, get building. Building jigs for your plane will be so much easier and precise with a MM.

Now enough talking and back to work

Thanks Guys

Looking at a flat panel design of plane just imputting all into cad then will learn how to get code out.

now back to reading.

Hi Everyone

After reading the plans and forum I have a Bom based on what Ausmaddog has done.

I have decided on a 2440 x 1220 machine

75 x 75 x 3mm Box = 6 @ 720mm (legs)
50 x 50 x 3mm Box = 6 @ 1500mm (Y axis top & bottom cross rails)
50 x 50 x 3mm Box = 4 @ 1025mm (X axis bottom side rails)
50 x 50 x 3mm Box = 4 @ 1090mm (X axis diagonal braces)
50 x 50 x 3mm Box = 6 @ 720mm (Y axis diagonal braces)

76 x 38mm PFC = 8 @ 1640mm (Y axis cross supports)
200 x 75mm PFC = 2 @ 3040mm (X axis main beams)

65 x 50 x 6mm Angle = 2 @ 3380mm (X axis v rails)
65 x 50 x 6mm Angle = 2 @ 2080mm (y axis v rails)
20 x 6mm Flat bar = 2 @ 1670mm (y Rail Clamp Strips)
100 x 50 x 3mm Box = 2 @ 1720mm (Y axis gantry rails)

Does the above seem right
Tony had for the Y axis Gantry rails a length as 1770 but I cannot find a reference to this in the plans ie y+500.

Another question is does the support board have to be bigger than the size board to be cut or is it the same size.

Back to reading and doing the bolt BOM
with thanks
Peter

Would these be good as a starting point

http://ausxmods.com.au/stepper-motor...-stepper-motor

This gent also has Gekos at a reasonable price
I was thinking of a G540 as a starting point then move upto the 203v's at a later date..

A lot of reading today but a lot of info found out.

Cheers
Peter

Hi Pete,

Welcome to the forum and good luck with the build!!
Re:- my gantry beams I ordered them 50mm longer so that I could then cut them to size myself later. I should get someone to edit that in my thread post as I have had a couple of people ask that same question:D

Cheers
Tony.

Tony sent you a PM to check out an update.
http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showt...5&postcount=15

Buying Things "Oh what a feeling"
 

Finnaly took the plunge and ordered the,
Bob, Gecko 203v's, Power supplies (linear of course), fans, estops, pushbuttons, work trolley ($50 on ebay), and are ready for the nuts and bolts and just about to place the order for the racks, pinion gears and spindle.

Steel order has been quoted. Have decided to go for uncut as my workshop will be setup to take the longer lengths. Saving here has allowed me to get the cold cut saw.

Have a question about bolts if someone can answer for me.

Which is more used Zinc plated or Black. Would the black HT steel bolts show signs of rusting after a while. Is the zinc only for show or does it serve a purpose.

With Thanks
Peter

Hi Pete,

Sounds like your getting along like a house on fire with your collection of tools and parts:D
With regards to bolts I asked a similar question sometime ago and zinc are fine!! just make sure you get the better qaulity ones not the cheepies;)

Cheers
Tony.

...just try to stay away from stainless, it tends to gall and cause more headaches than it's worth.

Kitchen Table Project
 

Well the electronics arrived and have finnaly got around to setting up the kitchen table.

Attachment 10331
All the Gecko 203v's lined up attached to 3mm alum plate
Motors turning just to tune them better.
All sheilded cables grounded to earth on Alum plate.
Homann MB-02 BoB.

Attachment 10332
2 x 48 volt linear power supplies. 1x 5 volt supply
Just running power direct at the moment ie hobbyist setup, I will get the din rail etc soon.

Attachment 10333
Just getting different wiring sorted best to check before I mount them permantley.

Attachment 10334
Homann Bob fairly easy to wire up. Went for this as a starter it's local with good support and about 1/3 cheaper than the PDMX-122

Now the learning can start.

Pete

ps This is the Kitchen project

Attachment 10335

Hey, My bench drill looks exactly like yours!
Good progress! wish you a fantastic journey.

Well done Peter, You have a good supply of 'rags' hanging in the last photo, if your hands get dirty.:D

Keep it up Pete!!

Good work, and looking sweet as!!

Cheers
Tony.

VFD Has arrived
 

Since the last posting 3 months ago (darn work) My Hitatchi SJ200 series Inverter had arrived.

Thanks to Woody in the US. for purchasing this I managed to get the better version at a cheaper cost than Direct from Drive wharehouse.

Again lots of reading over christmas to get this going with the BoB.

Wishing everyone Seasons Greetings.

Peter

Collecting more parts
 

My 2.2kw spindle and 24 ER20 collets has arrived as well as a
12 volt power supply for homing, E-stops etc.
Homman Modio board talk to the VFD
1 proximity switch (just for practice of wiring.)
Also acquired two contactors both Telemechanique LC1D12. Just need to check whether these are suitable if any one has an opinion if they are good or bad.
No drama's if they are bad they fell off the preverbal wall.


These are the specs for them.

http://www.sungko.com/Product/AC-Con...Contactor.html

Photo's to come when I get home.

Cheers
Pete

The Fun Begins
 

Look what turned up yesterday also I got thrown out of the kitchen and dining room. Now I have a large workshop under the house.
The Steel also arrived yesterday will update with photo's later.
Off to start cutting and stored away awaiting welding.

Cheers
Pete

Hi Pete,

You will not be disappointed with the metal saw, exactly the same as mine. Makes easy work cutting all that steel.

Cheers
Tony.

Hi Pete and Tony,

I also purchased a metal saw and was quite pleased initially. I found it cut the angle and the light tubing (1/8" wall) with ease. I then proceeded to cut the 3" c-channel cross members at approx. 20 degrees as recommended for esthetics. The 16 cuts took its toll on my blade and it now struggles to cut anything. I will have to get it sharpened or replace the blade at more than $100.

Clayton

Clayton,

Which metal cutting saw did you purchase? I cut 8" Channel with my Mikita circular saw (shown here) with no problems. My Mikita (with original blade) is still going strong after two years and literally hundreds of cuts.

Hi John,

I purchased mine at Princess Auto - $300. The tool itself is fine but I believe the blade is of poor quality - it is a "no name" blade. I probably made 50 cuts total. When I purchase a replacement blade, it will be a brand like Makita, Milwaukee or Freud.

Clayton

I have the same 14" saw from Princess Auto. I did one angled cut on the cross-bearers, which it struggled with. I did the rest of the angled cuts with my handheld Steelmax saw instead.

I think the saws have difficulty when there's a long horizontal part to cut through. If the part to cut is vertical, they work great.

I bought a Milwaukee 6190-20 several years ago and the blade gave about the same service. After the second $150 blade gave the same service I was getting a bit disgusted with it. The third blade I bought was a MK Morse. It was about the same price but has lasted 3 times as many cuts as the others and is still going. You have to be careful and let the blade cool when you are cutting thicker stuff (1/4"). The way you clamp the material is important too. Dewalt put out a video a while back showing you how but I can't seem to find it right now.

FYI

I just ordered a replacement blade for my dry cut saw. After some extensive searching I found the Freud blade at Cripe Distributing selling for $40. The same blade on Ebay is selling for no less than $84.

http://www.cripedistributing.com/fre...de-p-1467.html

Hey Clayton, that looks like a great deal. Let us know how it performs.

This Arrived on Thursday night

Attachment 11509 Attachment 11510


and by Friday night this is what it looked like.

Attachment 11511

Thanks everyone for the encouraging words.

Now back to it.

And yes the 200PFC is missing had to delay it by 5 days it should be here on Tuesday one 9mt length.

Cheers
Pete

Looks Good
 

Pete

Keep the updates coming.

After many months of deliberating I have decided to make the MM. I have followed your posts as well as others and am about to start getting my Steel.

Mick